FALL 2009
celebratedliving.com
78
Pork Rules
Ironic how it seemed that themore the
National PorkBoardpromoted itsproduct
as “theotherwhitemeat”with less fat than
it used tohave, the lessporkappearedon
upscalemenus. Chefs simplydidn’t care for
thebland tasteof leanporkandneitherdid
most customers. Butwith thedevelopment
of hormone-free, fatter Berkshire hogs,
pioneered in 1995byNimanRanch inCali-
forniaand theWillisFreeRangePigFarm
in Iowa, chefshaveagain restoredpork to
itsproperplaceonapropermenu. Theuse
of porkbelly, once reserved forChinese
restaurants, hasnowbecome the “in” food
of thedecade.Vietnameseporksandwiches,
called
banhmi
, areall the rage inhipnew
eateries inNewYork, SanFrancisco, and
LosAngeles.At SanFrancisco’s
Spruce
,
chefMarkSullivan chars tenderloinof
porkand serves itwith crispyporkbelly
andbeans. InChicago, TakashiYagihashi
of
Takashi
serves it crispwitha sweet
caramel-soyglaze.
Tenderloin of porkwith crispy pork belly
and beans created byMark Sullivan at Spruce
CULINARYUPDATE
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