laughingwhenshegivesme thumbs-up.
Withourwetsuitson, the75-degree
water feels likeagiantbathtub.
“Herewego,”Mariosays.He turns
theboardsoI’mno longer facing the
ocean; I’m looking toward theshore.
“Paddle,paddle,paddle!”heyells,
pushingme through thewater. “Up,up,
UP!”
It’salmostanout-of-bodyexperience.
Somehow,mykneescome together,my
footsprings forward, I twistupandI’m
standing! I’msurfing!
Onshore, Icansee thegentleman
who tried tosellushatsearlier (he’sstill
wearingsomanyhats)! IcanseeChuy’s
dogrunning through thesand. Ikeepmy
kneesbentandmy face to thebeach.
Iride thewaveall theway to theshore
andfirmlyplantmy feeton theocean
floor. Iquicklycollectmyboardand turn
to thewaterandMario, remembering the
rule:Never turnyourbackon theocean.
Hegivesmeahigh-five.MaybeI’m
anatural, I tellhim. “Doyouhaveapro
teamhere?”Iaskcasuallyaswehead
back into thewater.Weget inposition
nearTrishaandChuy, andIwatch
I LLUSTRAT ION
COL IN HAYES
tosurf?” (it’sasecret). “Haveyouseen
BlueCrush
?” (What?). “Onascaleof 1 to
10,howpatientareyou?”Withaglance
in therearviewmirror,Mariosaysallhis
studentsgetupduring theirfirst lesson.
“Everyone?”Iask. “Everyone,”he
says. (OK,maybe there’sanexception
or two,butprettymucheveryone.)
MarionotesthatweareheadedtoLos
CerritosBeachbecause thereare three
tiersofwaves; thesmalleronesclosest to
theshoreareperfect forbeginners.The
sandybottom is ideal forbeginners too.
“TheconditionsmakeLosCerritosoneof
themostunique— ifnot themostunique
—spot tosurf inMexico,”hesays. “And
it’ssupersafe.”
Maybe it’s theconversation,maybe
it’s the tequila,butaswestartwalking
toward thebeachwhere theboardsare
setup,weareexcited toget in thewater.
F I R S T T H I N G S
F I R S T
:
Wemust learn thebasics.
Trisha,KarlaandIare introduced to the
nose (the front), thebody (youget it)and
the tailof theboard,whichhasanankle
tether tobondyouand theboard.
Under thewarmPescaderosun,we
look likefishoutofwaterbellydown in
thesand,pretending topaddle.From the
paddle,wegetonourknees, thenpop
either therightor left foot in thecenter
of theboardbetweenourhands. (Right
footmeansyouare“goofy”; left foot
meansyou’reregular.Gofigure.)From
here, you’removingup fromacrouched
positionandhopefullyrippingorslashing
—or justsurfingatallat thatpoint.
Itdawnsonmeaswearewalkingout
to thewater thatIhaven’tevenbeen in
theocean in thepastyear.But theroar
of thewaves isso loud;nothing inmy
headreallymattersanymore.The foam
of thesurfsizzles like1,000piecesof
baconbehindus.
“Geton theboard,”Mario tellsme,
waist-deep in thewater. “Let’shave fun!”
Trishaandher instructor,Chuy
UlisesGonzalez, are tomy left.She’s
2.
Place your hands palm-flat just under
your chest on theboard and lift your
torso. The space inbetween your hands,
upby your chest, iswhere youwill “pop
up,” or bring your dominant foot forward
inpreparation to standup.
4.
Keeping a crouchedposition, knees
bent, standupwith your gaze toward the
shore, both feet firmlyplanted, spaced
out, in themiddleof theboard. Practice
multiple times until themotions feel
comfortable andfluid.
1.
Liebelly-downon your board (which
will typicallybe a longboardbecause
they areeasiest touse), so your body is
linedupwith themiddleof theboard,
andpracticepaddling. Fasten the leash to
your less-dominant leg.
3.
Inone swiftmotion, bringyour knees
together on theboard, extendingyour
dominant foot to themiddlebetween
your hands (beginnersmayadd the
option tobringboth knees into themiddle
of theboardfirst, thenextend the foot).
AMERICANWAY
SEPTEMBER2015
77
B E G I N N E R ’ S G U I D E
H OW T O S U R F
