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The Battic Door Whole House Attic Fan Ceiling Shutter Seal is an energy-saving insulating seal for Whole House Attic Fans.
The Battic Door Whole House Attic Fan Ceiling Shutter Seal is easily installed over the fan louver from the house side in the fall and removed in the spring.
By reducing the amount of heat and moisture leaking into your attic, the severity of ice dams and attic mold is greatly reduced! The back of the foam is reflective, reflecting attic heat away from house in summer and reflecting heating back into house in winter. Each kit includes enough Velcro to go around perimeter of foam: 14 ft Velcro with our small 3x4 ft kit, 16 ft Velcro with our medium 4x4 ft kit, 20 ft Velcro with our large 5x4 ft kit.
Simply add up the amount of materials you need and purchase additional Velcro strips as needed.
The difference between the two is that a whole house fan pulls air out of the interior of a home, while a attic fan pulls air out of the attic only.
After a attic fan pulls hot air out of a attic the interior of a home will in theory be easier to cool. While a whole house fan after pulling air from the interior of a home can cool the whole house and freshen the air. Do not attempt any HVAC furnace repair, air conditioning repair, heat pump repair, wiring, HVAC installations or other HVAC repairs without the proper training.
HVAC systems can be dangerous and lead to injury if proper safety procedures are not taking. A Whole House fan takes air from inside a home and vents it rapidly into the attic or through a vent pipe. Whole house fans are located at the highest point in a home and have large fan blades that can quickly pull old stagnate air from the interior of a home. A whole house fan can quickly cool down a home during the evening, night time or any time the air outside is comfortable. Whole house fans are also used in homes that need air flow and can move out stagnate stale air quickly.
The most common kind of residential ventilation fan is one used to provide fresh air for building occupants.
A powered attic ventilator has a different purpose: it is designed to lower the temperature of an attic by exhausting air from the attic and replacing attic air with outdoor air. Whole-house fans are used to cool a house at night, when the heat of the day has passed and the outdoor temperature has dropped enough to feel comfortable.
The main advantage of using a whole-house fan instead of an air conditioner is to save energy.
In most cases, a whole-house fan is mounted in the attic floor, above a rectangular grille in the ceiling of a central hallway. Since a whole-house fan blows all of the hot air from the home into the attic, the fan won’t work effectively unless the attic has large openings to exhaust the hot air. Here’s the rule of thumb: you need one square foot of net free vent area for every 750 cfm of fan capacity. Manufacturers of ridge vents and soffit vents provide information on the net free area of ventilation per linear foot of their products; for example, this page from the Air Vent website lists different ridge vent products that provide between 9 and 18 square inches of net free area per linear foot of product.
If you live in the right climate, whole-house fans are a great way to keep your house cool. However, even if you need to seal up your house and turn on your air conditioner during the hottest months of summer, a whole-house fan may be useful during the spring and fall seasons, when nights are cool but days remain hot.
They don’t make sense for homes in neighborhoods where security concerns prevent homeowners from leaving their windows open. Because they depressurize a home, whole-house fans can cause atmospherically vented appliances located inside a home — for example, a gas-fired water heater — to backdraft. Whole-house fans represent a big hole in your ceiling — a hole that is likely to leak a lot of heat during the winter unless it is properly sealed. One document posted online — “Whole-House Fan” — includes instructions for building a “box cover” for a whole-house fan. For a better approach, make a site-built cover as shown in the detail in GBA's CAD detail library. The second solution to the “big hole in the ceiling” problem: buy a whole-house fan from Tamarack.
Tamarack Technologies of Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts, makes the best whole-house fans available.
Tamarack HV1600 has two speeds (1,150 cfm and 1,600 cfm) and draws 230 watts at high speed. Tamarack fans have lower cfm ratings than most other whole-house fans, but the low power ratings confer certain advantages. Of course, since these fans don’t move as much air as a fan rated at 4,000 cfm, you’ll have to run the fan for more hours to get the same cooling effect.
Now that we’re done talking about whole-house fans — the “good” kind of attic fan — it’s time to address powered attic ventilators — the “bad” kind of attic fan.
Powered attic ventilators are usually mounted on a sloped roof or the gable wall of an attic.
Although the logic behind powered attic ventilators is compelling to many hot-climate homeowners, these devices can cause a host of problems.
In many homes, powered attic ventilators pull conditioned air out of the home and into the attic through ceiling cracks. As the cool air is being sucked out of the house through the ceiling, hot exterior air enters the house through other cracks to replace the exhausted air. Several studies show that even in a house with a tight ceiling, a powered attic ventilator uses more electricity than it saves. A more alarming problem: researchers in Florida and North Carolina have shown that powered attic ventilators can depressurize a house enough to cause water heaters to backdraft. John Tooley of Natural Florida Retrofit and Bruce Davis of Alternative Energy Corporation’s Applied Building Science Center in North Carolina conducted a field study to investigate powered attic ventilator performance. One of the researchers working with Tooley and Davis was Arnie Katz, who wrote: “In most of the houses we’ve tested, the attic fans were drawing some of their air from the house, rather than from the outside. Researchers at the Florida Solar Energy Center (FSEC) have reached similar conclusions to those reached by Tooley, Davis, and Katz. Researchers at FSEC looked into solar-powered attic ventilators, and noted that the devices could, in some circumstances, reduce the electricity used for air conditioning.
My favorite quote on solar-powered attic fans comes from Arnie Katz, who wrote, “In my opinion, powered attic ventilators are generally not a good idea, whether they’re powered by nuclear electricity, burning water buffalo dung, landfill-generated methane gas, or directly by the sun….
If you do have ductwork or HVAC equipment in your attic, the designer and builder of your home made a major mistake.
Moving the insulation from your attic floor to the sloped roof assembly, creating an unvented conditioned attic. If you believe that your house has a hot ceiling during the summer, the solution is not a powered attic ventilator.
Davis Energy Group of Davis, CA developed the Night Breeze system which does not require window opening to cool the house. The attic "coffin" you mention, which is used to air seal and insulate pull-down stairs, scuttle hole, or a whole house fan, is good in theory, but in practice, is cumbersome to install.
The NightBreeze has been around for a while; I first wrote an article about the product 8 years ago, for an article that appeared in the September 2004 issue of Energy Design Update. I'm constantly up against folks who sell or have bought powered attic ventilators for use in Florida. Solar Attic Fans are easily managed and fixed and a great product for proper attic ventilation. Standard asphalt shingle roofs is northern Vermont, where Martin Holladay lives, last 30 or more years, while roofs in south Texas last about 15 to 18 years.
That 20,000 kWh would go a long way toward operating a pair of thermostatically controlled, powered attic ventilators (operated off the same thermostat) that had fans both blowing air into and out of the attic, through gable vents, with a balanced pressure so that air was not sucked through the ceiling of the house.
I get the idea that people that suggest a hot attic with a well-insulated ceiling have never crawled around an attic in south Texas on a summer day trying to string a TV cable or electrical wiring. Since the desert southwest is prime territory for whole house fans and a common building style is flat roofs with either no attic space or very minimal, non-accessible attic space, what is an appropriate detail for installing a whole house fan? Obviously, it depends on the average ambient temperature, humidity, and the nature of the attic. My guess is that way more attention should be given to creating a flawless air seal around the cover than to adding a few more Rs to the R-value.
To determine whether your argument has any merit, we need to look at each of these three assertions in turn.
A better option would be the TC1000-H fan from Tamarack -- a model with an automatic insulated damper that prevents heat flow and air flow when the unit is not in use.
Let's assume that the insulated box in the attic measures 40 inches by 40 inches, and it is 24 inches high. Cold climates will have a higher ?T than I assumed, and warm climates will have a lower ?T than I assumed.
Thank you, Martin, for showing me how to do the heat-loss calculation, and providing an example. Considering lower materials cost, easier fabrication, and simpler attachment and removal, I'm thinking that I would be very happy paying an extra $1-$6 per year to use an R-5 flat cover on the ceiling of the hallway.
Most whole-house fans require a rectangular opening that is at least 32" x 32", and often larger; some whole-house fans are 48 in. It is interesting that asphalt single warranties are based on having attic ventilation to code or the warranty is voided.
If your attic doesn't have any problems, I wouldn't worry about adding more attic ventilation.
It's very easy to write that better insulation, radiant barriers, and light-colored roofs are components of a superior solution.
You have installed powered attic ventilators in two homes in recent years, so you obviously like them.
Even if your anecdotes are accurate in all details, and even if you have no financial interest in promoting powered attic ventilators, two anecdotes aren't convincing.
You have described two buildings with "hot ceilings." I have no idea why anyone with a hot ceiling would think it was easier to install powered attic ventilators than a layer of cellulose insulation.
Here at GBA, we strive to advise readers of the simplest and best solutions to common building problems. Well, to me two anecdotes are more compelling than one article, no matter how many times it's been re-written.
The most important variable, however, is the human beings involved and the particular situation they are dealing with. Energy engineering is way more complicated than telling people that there is but one solution to a problem. However, after having read the reports of researchers who have studied the issue and measured energy use in buildings with powered attic ventilators, I'm going to stick with the conclusions and advice of the researchers, even in the face of two anecdotes that buck the trend. I had hoped you would have done a little more research into other suppliers in order to offer a more unbiased view. Like so many other "plug in" solutions attic fans certainly have the potential to make things worse rather than better.
The primary reason attic fans are not helpful is that they can depresureize the attic and draw air out of the house.
The amount of air being drawn out of the house is a function of the pressure difference and size of the air leaks in the attic floor. If air leakage is minimized, and depressurization is controlled with either a balanced fan or adequate openings for incoming air then it seems reasonable that the amount of depressurization would minimal and the attic fan could be beneficial.
Arnie Katz's study concluded that (an undefined amount of?) depressurization was enough to increase cooling costs. If the house without AC running was closing the windows during the day to keep the house cooler, then any air being exhausted to the attic would be replaced by warmer outdoor air, but that warming of the house is tempered by a cooler ceiling. You propose the question "who cares how hot the attic is if there is enough insulation in the attic floor?" Insulation can only slow and not stop the energy transfer.

If you install a powered attic ventilator, there is one thing you can be sure of: your electricity bill will go up. Just because insulation slows down heat transfer rather than stopping it, doesn't mean that insulation isn't the best (and most cost-effective) way to prevent hot attics from making homeowners uncomfortable.
You wrote, "Everything else being equal, any house would benefit from a cooler attic." That statement is only true during the summer. Yes, of course more insulation with no moving parts and year round benefit is the better option. In a house with no ac running and the windows open there has to be some level of cooling benefit from lowering the attic temp with an attic fan. Of course if the attic fan isn't working correctly and is running all year long that would be a significant problem. Also, living in West Texas (think El Paso or Lubbock) 'swamp coolers' work great for all but about 2 days a year. Ahh, the differences from living in the NE and the SW (and the South) is really different on how we live with our environment. About this site: Our aim is to provide the best and most accurate information available about attic fans. They can reduce the heat load on air conditioning systems and evaporative coolers so that the cost of cooling is substantially reduced and performance improved. At night you can open any windows, especially those upstairs, and pull in the cooler evening air to displace the very warm air upstairs. The whole house fan will also blow out the very hot air inside the attic and reduce the heat load onto the rooms below. By installing and operating the fan properly you can often eliminate the need for air conditioning and almost always substantially reduce the cost of cooling your house. Unlike swamp (evaporative) coolers, they do not put mold in the air and require no maintenance. If you already have air conditioning or an evaporative cooler the fans work wonderfully well together, enabling these systems to cool the upper levels of a house quickly, and much more effectively, and at a lower total cost as well. These fans will pay for themselves in the first few years and make your home much more comfortable and enjoyable while saving substantial amounts of energy over air conditioning alone. Being able to control the air in your home will transform it from a hotbox to a comfortable and affordable retreat in the summer. Environmental concerns: Because these fans use very small motors, their energy consumption is minimal and environmental impact is greatly reduced compared to the much larger amount of energy needed for air conditioning. We have an Instant Price Estimator where you can get a quick idea of how much a whole house fan will cost you with installation and probable venting costs.
Our Fan Pricing page offers a more elaborate idea of the cost of a whole house fan plus installation plus extra ventilation.
If you already have a whole house fan or just want to know how one should be operated, visit our Operating Instructions page. Have a question we haven't answered on this site or want a more exact estimate: Send us a message via our Contact Us page. Out of state: If you live out of state and want to purchase a whole house fan from us or have questions about whole house fans, please contact us directly via the "Contact us" page. Do-it-Yourself: If you are a do-it-yourselfer and feel capable of installing a fan, we would be pleased to sell you one of our high quality units and make ourselves available for a free phone consultation should you have questions or run into unforeseen issues during the installation.
If you want to know why you should buy a fan from us, take a look at the Why Buy From Us page.
It reduces air-leakage through the whole house attic fan saving the homeowner heating and cooling loss and energy costs. Remove release liner from other side of Velcro and install foam into it leaving an overhang on all 4 sides. Unlike a ventilation fan, a whole-house fan — an attic-mounted fan that exhausts air from a home at night — is designed to cool a house (that is, to lower the indoor temperature). A whole-house fan usually draws between 200 and 700 watts — about 10% to 15% of the power drawn by a central air conditioner (2,000 to 5,000 watts). It makes no sense to introduce lots of (potentially humid) exterior air into a house at night if you intend to turn on an air conditioner the next day. Once the outdoor temperature cools down — usually in the evening or early morning — the homeowner opens a few downstairs windows, closes the fireplace damper, and turns on the fan. Since whole-house fans are relatively powerful — they are usually rated between 2,000 cfm and 6,000 cfm — they quickly exhaust the hot indoor air, allowing cooler outdoor air to enter through the downstairs windows.
Most old-fashioned whole-house fans require more attic venting than the minimum amount required by the building code — anything from a little more to about twice as much, depending on the size of the fan.
The vent area can be made up of a combination of soffit vents, ridge vents, and gable vents. The traditional recommendation is to choose a fan that can move between 15 and 20 air changes per hour (achACH stands for Air Changes per Hour.
If you live somewhere where the temperature stays in the 80s all night long, a whole-house fan won’t help you much.
However, newer models of whole-house fans — especially the Tamarack HV1000 — are quieter than traditional whole-house fans with higher cfm ratings. Unfortunately, the document suggests that it’s acceptable to build a cover insulated only to R-5.
Or you can follow the advice given by Erik North in his blog on building a “coffin” for insulation pull-down attic stairs.
Since Tamarack fans include motorized doors insulated to R-38 or R-50, you won’t have to climb up into your attic twice a year to wrestle with an insulated box if you install a Tamarack fan.
Most powered attic ventilators are controlled by a thermostat so that they turn on when the attic gets hot. The installers of powered attic ventilators hope that the exhausted air will be replaced by outdoor air.
Installers evidently hope that a powered attic ventilator will save more energy that the electricity required to run the fan. Here’s the basic problem: a powered attic ventilator will depressurize your attic, and it’s hard to predict where the makeup air will come from. The net result: the air conditioner has work harder than ever as it struggles to cool all that entering outdoor air.
Since backdrafting sometimes introduces carbon monoxide into a home, the phenomenon can be dangerous. According to an article published in Home Energy magazine, “As a result of this research, Davis said that he wouldn’t recommend the use of powered attic ventilators. In other words, they are cooling the attic by drawing air-conditioned air out of your house and into the attic. In an FSEC publication called “Fans to Reduce Cooling Costs in the Southeast,” researcher Subrato Chandra wrote, “Data measured at FSEC and elsewhere show that attics with nominal natural ventilation and R-19 ceiling insulation do not need powered vent fans. In hopes of answering critics who complain that these fans use more electricity than they save, the industry has developed powered attic ventilators equipped with small photovoltaic panels. In their report, Performance Assessment of Photovoltaic Attic Ventilator Fans, however, the researchers concluded, “Based on the matching period analysis, estimation of annual space cooling savings are on the order of 460 kWh.
The solution is to seal any air leaks in your ceiling and to add more insulation to your attic floor. The thermostat-like control unit also regulates the operation of the air conditioner, if any. When the control predicts relatively mild weather, the ventilating blower will run at a lower speed than when hotter weather is predicted. Most who have them "get it" when I explain that conditioned air is pulled up out of every ceiling penetration. The best way to lower the temperature of asphalt shingles is with a powered attic ventilator. The best way to lower asphalt shingle temperatures is to choose white-colored shingles over black shingles. You can adjust the assumptions to fit your own case and run your own calculations if you want. But as long as you're making a cover, why not use at least 2-inch-thick rigid foam instead of 1-inch-thick foam?
I've recorded temperatures up to 180 deg F on back side of asphalt shingles in the California summer sunshine and attic temperatures of 160 deg F.
I've measured attic temperatures with various types and amounts of attic venting and there is really little effect that can be detected with venting on attic temperature.
Of course if you want to make lemonade out of that lemon, use the attic heat to preheat water and call your roof a solar collector. In the summer, the upstairs bedrooms are unbearably hot, due to the ceiling radiating attic heat.
Needless to say, there are all kinds of reasons that electric bills fluctuate from one month to the next; one of the biggest reasons (when it comes to air conditioning) is variations in weather. I'd like to repeat my advice: if you have a hot ceiling, install more insulation on your attic floor. I have been a professional energy engineer for 2 decades; I understand that there are many variables that account for enrgy use. In both of my anecdotes, the human beings felt that the cost in money, time, work, and hassle would not have sufficient return in comfort. As a curious professional, I was willing to risk the investment to see for myself what effects are. I certainly appreciate the information, as I appreciate all information provided by GBA readers. Of course, a fan cannot cool your garage unless the outdoor air temperature is lower than the indoor air temperature. Tamarack is a fine company with leading edge insulation technology but you do your readers a disservice by inserting your opinion that they "make the best whole-house fans available". The problem is that in most cases, there is no one available to accurately make that determination. Many houses have significant leaks in the air barrier(attic floor) and it would be easy for the attic fan to draw a significant amount of air from the house. In an attic with gable vents, soffit vents, and ridge venting, I suspect that the attic fan would not create a significant pressure difference and the air leakage from the house is probably small. Regardless of what the insulation level is, there will be some level of energy transfer from the warmer attic to the cooler house. I know of two houses using them and the owners are certain that they make a large difference in comfort. Believe it or not, many homeowners with powered attic ventilators leave them running all year long, because they forget to turn them off or the thermostat breaks. In those cases the options are to "sweat it out", cool the poorly insulated house with a large AC system, or try to limit the heat gain to reduce the temperature in the house. The same can be said for any mechanical equipment in the house that is not operating correctly. Later, during the day, if you have a basement, you can open the basement windows to pull in the cool air upstairs. For the very first time, your entire house can be cool and comfortable for a very small operating cost: less than 25A? a day! In addition, the fans can be used year round to remove, odors, staleness and A pollution from the home. There you will be able to find answers to the most common questions about whole house fans. For a quick visual summary of the different types of whole house fans check out our Compare Fans (Chart) page. If you want an estimate, answer as many of the questions on the contact form that you are able. If you tell us your shipping address we can advise you as to the freight charges or answer any other questions you have. We can often help you to troubleshoot and repair your own fan for free, even if you did not purchase it from us.

There may be aA distance charge for installations outside a 35 mile radius of our company office.
The foam is a solid-core that trims easily with scissors - it cannot unravel and does not have any frayed edges. In the late evening or early morning, the fan is turned on to exhaust hot air from the house.
Balanced ventilation system in which most of the heat from outgoing exhaust air is transferred to incoming fresh air via an air-to-air heat exchanger; a similar device, an energy-recovery ventilator, also transfers water vapor. If evenings are cool enough, it’s fairly easy to lower the temperature of your home and your furniture with a whole-house fan — sometimes in less than an hour. If you're using your air conditioner, keep your windows closed, 24 hours a day, so that the air conditioner isn't faced with an increased latent loadCooling load that results when moisture in the air changes from a vapor to a liquid (condensation). If the vent has insect screening, remember to make the opening 50% larger than the rule of thumb dictates.
But the best way to avoid backdrafting problems in a house with a whole-house fan is to make sure that the house doesn’t have any atmospherically vented combustion appliances. The main disadvantage of this solution is that you have to climb up into the attic twice a year to install it and remove it.
Moreover, since a Tamarack fan blows a smaller volume of air than the typical whole-house fan, it usually doesn’t require any extra vents in your attic. They also hope that the outdoor air will be cooler than the exhausted air, and that the effect of operating the fan will be to lower the attic temperature.
Although the “smart arrows” in the sales brochures shows outdoor air entering the attic through the soffit vents, that’s not what usually happens. Air conditioning the attic is not recommended by anyone I know as an effective strategy for reducing your bills.
Such fans cost more to operate than they save in reduced cooling costs, so they are not recommended.” Of course, if your ceiling insulation is deeper than R-19 — as it should be — there’s even less reason to worry about your attic temperatures. The biggest potential problem, says Rose, is that power venting can cause a negative pressure in the attic. In addition to providing nighttime ventilation cooling, the NightBreeze system provides year-‘round whole-house ventilation.
Your estimate of 15 to 18 years is much closer to the average here (as it appears to be in Texas).
No other factor, including attic ventilation, plays as much of a role as do color and orientation.
However, if you really care about shingle temperatures, the best solution is clear: choose white shingles!
Click here to see a website with many inexpensive models of whole-house exhaust fans for flat roofs. In the real world, comfort, low first cost, and immediate gratification take precedence over theory and lab results. The bedrooms can be filled with cool air, yet the hot ceiling makes them feel like being inside a broiler.
But in the real world, we look for practical solutions that people will actually implement. Don't install a powered attic ventilator, since these devices, on average, use more electricity than they save. If the attic fans didn't do the trick, then I'd move on to the next solution and be out only $100. And I accept your assertion that you have no financial interest in promoting powered attic ventilators. If you have radiant barrier sheathing, the temperature difference between the two spaces won't be very great, and probably won't be enough to justify the use of the fan. As a general rule unless a homeowner has a highly qualified person to evaluate their house, I think its safe to say that attic fans should be avoided. If a house has been air sealed by someone with an understanding of the air leakage, then it would seem that the depressurization would be minimal and the attic fan could then be beneficial.
In a house not running an ac system any air being drawn from the house is being replaced by outdoor air. This increase in your electric bill is especially guaranteed in homes without AC (because there is no possibility that running the fan might decrease electricity devoted to AC). If a $100 attic fan (which consumes little electricity compared with an AC unit and contains far less embodied energy) can be part of a plan to reduce heat gain there may be a significant energy and environmental benefit compared to the AC option.
If the attic fan keeps the house cool enough so that the owners leave the AC off, there is almost certainly an energy benefit.
Thousands of jobs have taught us how to choose and install the products that guarantee results and provide satisfaction for years to come. If you don't have a basement, you can water the grass or shrubs outside a window and open that window to pull in cooler air. A whole house fan will do its job reliably and effectively longer than most any other appliance you will ever purchase. A The comments are just our opinion, but after 30+ years working with them, we think our opinion counts about fans. Your website was very informative and easy to find, I just typed attic fan cover into my MSN search engine and found your website. Most people who have whole-house fans keep their windows closed from early morning until evening, so that the cool air inside the house doesn’t escape. ACH is often expressed as ACH50, which is the air changes per hour when the house is depressurized to -50 pascals during a blower door test. In our case it was a louvered opening about 30in square that we covered with a plywood piece every September or the attic would get really cold.
In the two cases, I've described, the most practical (by far) solution was contrary to the conventional wisdom. The results of my experiments, so far, differ from this article and all the other ones that say the same thing.
If the windows are open in the house there is no "cooling penality" to having some air exhausted from through the attic.
But research has shown that, even in a house with AC, powered attic ventilators increase homeowners' electricity bills -- they don't lower them.
If you are worried that your ceiling is still warm, the solution is simple: pile on a little more insulation. Even on those days that the electric company switches off the power to your air conditioner, you will still be able to experience some relief.
Eventually the hot air displaces all of the cold air and you’re left in sweat and misery. In hot climates, the function is reversed so that the cooler inside air reduces the temperature of the incoming hot air. The term ACHn or NACH refers to "natural" air changes per hour, meaning the rate of air leakage without blower door pressurization or depressurization. The HV1000 requires a minimum of 3 square feet of net free vent area, and the HV1600 requires a minimum of 5 square feet. In one house we tested, we measured substantial levels of carbon monoxide (CO) in the daughter’s bedroom in the basement. While the correlation between shingle temperature and longevity has not yet been definitively shown, it remains true that anyone concerned about elevated shingle temperatures should simply choose white shingles.
MIL was able to turn her thermostat up a few degrees, thereby saving energy and increasing comfort. I report my findings not to argue or to be off-handedly accused of having financial interest, but to advance our understanding and knowledge. Instead of using air conditioning, a whole house fan or attic fan could remove the hot air as it rises, letting you stay cool and comfortable. The part of a balanced ventilation system that captures water vapor and heat from one airstream to condition another.
If you’re aiming for 15 ach, that means you need to divide your home’s volume by 4 to obtain the cfm rating of your fan. By the time I go to bed, the attic is cooler than the inside of my house, so it is drawing heat out. In cold climates, water vapor captured from the outgoing airstream by ERVs can humidify incoming air. If your ceiling height is between 8 and 9 feet, just multiply the floor area of your house by 3 to obtain the cfm rating of your fan. Still others might tap into an existing HVAC system that’s installed to provide a cool venting experience throughout the home. In hot-humid climates, ERVs can help maintain (but not reduce) the interior relative humidity as outside air is conditioned by the ERV.), as well as some types of bathroom exhaust fans. It does more than just remove the hot air from the attic, however, because it will create air movement within the entire home. The hot air is exhausted, allowing the cold air to settle right in from the ground up.Real success with this type of fan comes with how it is designed to work. Some whole house fans are designed to bring air into the home instead of exhausting it out of the home. Look at our comprehensive reviews to find the best attic fans that are Energy Star compliant, but also look for alternative energy solutions.
For a real comparison, use our reviews to help you weed out the pretenders from the contenders as the best whole house fan for you. It is placed in your venting system, so you simply have to measure the vent and then select a fan that will fit within the vented area.
Then you would simply anchor the attic fan in place and have a switch routed to the interior of your home where you could control it. Because this would be an exterior change if you needed to fit your own venting space, local jurisdictions may require a building permit to allow this. Check with local laws and bring in a contractor if you are unsure about how to proceed if this is the case for you.
If you have a furnace installed that blows hot air through your home, then the same ventilation system can be used to blow cold air through the vents of your home as well! This is usually the most difficult whole house fan to install, but it is the one that integrates the best with your home as well.What Are the Prices to Expect For a Whole House Fan?Whole house fans are one of the cheapest home cooling solutions that are on the market today. For an entry-level system, the average household can get a good attic fan for about $150 that will meet all of their needs. The toy box could be there or you might be covered in food because you’ve been cooking over the stove for some time. With the remote, you can change the speed and spinning direction of the fan with one-touch ease and then keep going on about your day. It fits well into an attic vent, though the front controls make this fan more of a room-venting fan than an attic venting fan.
The plastic housing is impact resistant, which helps to keep it solidly in place, and the blades are made with powder-coated steel to prevent corrosion or discoloration.
It can move enough air to cool down about 3,000 square feet on one floor and its four-blade design gives this fan a 7,800 CFM rating. The automatic shutter also provides 95% air closure and the entire unit is controlled by a wall switch. It’s for smaller homes, about 1,500 square feet in size, and it offers about 1,000 CFM of air movement.
It’s a 14-inch fan and will help you clear out the hot air from the gables so that cool air can displace the hot air.

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