Separate light switch for fan and light up,ceiling fan install brisbane weather,outdoor unit fan not working youtube,hampton bay fan ac-552 manual - Try Out

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Do you want 2 switches and a receptacle in a single gang box, or do you want 2 switches in one single gang box and a receptacle in a different single gang box? Also, I accidentally broke off the connector on the right side of the switch between the black screws. Don't forget, since it's a bathroom the receptacle has to be protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). The bare copper grounds are all tied together and connected to the ground screw of both items. I have to say I just installed a fancier version of the same thing in 3 bathrooms in my house and the Lutron Light Dimmer and Fan Timer are awesome. Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical wiring receptacle exhaust-fan or ask your own question. Why does length return 1 for a tuple with 2 elements, and gives an error for a tuple with more elements? The diagrams on this page are for wiring a ceiling fan and light kit often used in a living room or bedroom. This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights.
This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture.
This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the built-in pull chain. Use this wiring when the source is at the fixture and you want to control the feed to both components with the same switch.
Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The right size ceiling fan for your room depends on more than just the square footage or your area. As a general rule, you can start with the recommended fan for a given room size as follows: For a large room of 15'x15' or more, choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 52, 56 or 60 inches.
Usually there is a small sliding switch on the side of the motor housing that will control the fan direction.
How can I convert two recessed lights on a single pole switch to two separate lights with light controls?
Conversion is too soft a word for what will have to be done, it is more than likely going to be a rework. This can be done but even in the best case scenario, you will need to run an additional cable from the switch gang box to one of the luminaires. It becomes more complicated if the power to the breaker is coming into one of the two lights. NOTE 2: This also assumes that you have already have a double gang box for installing two switches. Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged wiring lighting recessed-lighting or ask your own question. How do I convert a 3-way circuit with two lights into two 3-way circuits that control each light separately? How do I rewire two light fixtures controlled by two three way switches into two separate circuits? Attaching a Ceiling Fan - How to Install a Light Fixture or Fan - Home & Residential Wiring. Although a ceiling fan is a complex fixture with lots of parts, each step of installation is fairly simple. Carefully lift the assembled fan and hook the ball-like end of the downrod into the mounting bracket.
In this arrangement a standard single-pole switch turns the fan and the light on and off at the same time. If you installed a fan only, with no light kit, a push-button fan control operates the fan at different speeds. A two-wire cable brings power to the switch and three-wire cable runs from the switch to the fixture box.

Some manufacturers (Hunter for example) now recommend the fan mounting plate be screwed directly into the joist.
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OK, If you take one of the cables entering the box and touch the white to the black and turns on one of the items you'll need to break the tab between the black scres to separate the switchs.
Ok, I thought you were on to something there, because I had originally broken off the tab when I went to work on the switch, but it was not fully broken through. Yes, that will verify that each switch leg is working and that the switch connects are the problem. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions. A wire nut capped pigtail is fine for that, though be careful to keep the bare wire away from the neutral and hot terminals. Wiring arrangements for an electrical source at the switch and at the ceiling fixture are included, as well as controls for fan speed, light dimmer and a single-pole switch hardwired to control the light with a pull chain.
These include a timer to control the fan, a single-pole switch controlling the fan, and an exhaust fan and light fixture wired on two different switches.
The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box.
The source is at the controllers and the input of each is spliced to the black source wire with a pigtail. The white wire is no longer used for hot and the source neutral is run through to the switch box to satisfy the 2011 NEC requirement of a neutral wire in all switch boxes. The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box.
Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral. These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing. There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source.
The light is controlled with a single-pole switch and the fan controlled with a timer as in the previous drawing. Furniture, normal ambient temperature for the room, and ceiling height will all have an effect on the efficiency of the fan you choose. For a 12'x12' room, go with 44 to 48 inches of blade span, and for small rooms of 8'x8' or so, a blade span of 36 inches should do the trick. This function allows for more efficient cooling in the summer and for circulating heat in the room during the winter.
Push the canopy against the ceiling and secure it to the mounting bracket with the provided setscrews. With more expensive ceiling fans, switches are available that have separate controls for the fan and the light, though they require only two-wire cable.
When I disconnected the old switch their were two black wires connected and one white wire connected on the opposite side. Now it is broken through and I get fan only - no light.I tested the posts again - both black posts got a connect with the white wire same as before (which also coincides with the fan switch). The fan and the light either have a common feed as I directed you in the first answer or they are totally independant as the second answer showed. Wire the switches as the first sketck showed using the white on the black screws and the black wires on the gold screws. It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult.
I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know. The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box.

The source hot is spliced to the red wire which is connected to the bottom terminals on the switch at the other end.
With this arrangement the light is controlled with the switch and the fan is hardwired for pull-chain control. With this arrangement, the fan is controlled by a pull-chain on the motor housing and the light is controlled with the switch.
The hot source is spliced to each controlling device and the output of the controllers are connected as in the previous diagrams on this page. If you're installing more than one ceiling fan in a room or hall, set the distance between the two at 2 times the blade span. With this attitude, a counter clockwise spin will force air down into the room creating a cooling breeze. In most cases sliding the switch down will set counter clockwise spin, while sliding it up will set clockwise spin.
What are the wiring connections I need to make to convert this into 2 separate lights with light controls?
Splice the switch light lead to the hot wire from the lamp and the switch fan lead to the hot wire from the fan.
With a voltage tester test each wire to ground and let me know how many and what colors are hot.
Placement on the wires on the switch doesn't matter as logn as the paired wires are on the same switch (top or bottom). If you cut the bridge between the black screws, you'll need to put a jumper wire between them. The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end. The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch which runs power back to the fan where it is spliced to both the black and blue fan wires.
The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch and spliced to the black and blue wires at the fan at the other end. Clockwise rotation will pull air up to the ceiling, disturbing the warm air collected there and circulating it throughout the room to warm things up.
When I touch the white line on the switch that originates from the right wire (coming into the box) I get a hot connection to either of the black posts.When I test the other white wire to either of the black posts I get nothing. I can see that lower white wire that's connected to the switch, comes back as black and is one of those 3 hot ones i've labeled. The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end. At the other end, the black cable wire is spliced to one of the hot dimmer wires, it doesn't matter which one. The neutral source and ground are spliced through to the white and ground connections at the fan. The ground should be spliced with a short piece of wire and connected to each device and outlet box that has a grounding terminal. The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end.
The other dimmer wire is spliced to the red wire in the switch box which is spliced to the blue, light wire at the other end.
In these drawing the brass colored terminal represent the hot side of the device and the silver colored terminal represent the neutral. Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one.

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