28.03.2016

Installing fans in series,fansedge rutgers,online shopping fancy dresses london,the hampton bay lighting and fan company - Good Point

Author: admin  //  Category: Big Ceiling Fans


We actually have quite a bit of practice removing fans (I submit to you Exhibits A, B and C) – and just look at how happy it made me.
This is actually the first time we’re increasing our count, by going from one out here to two thanks to this wiring that we had done after we ripped out the ceiling. After looking everywhere from craigslist and thrift stores (it was hard to find two of the same kind secondhand) to more obvious places like Lowe’s and Home Depot, we settled on this model from Home Depot (which we found to have a better fan selection in general, by the way). They were $119 each, plus a $10 downrod that we had to add to each of them since our ceiling is lofted. Beyond just looks, we also had to be sure to buy something that was safe for use outdoors and that could be installed on an angled ceiling.
Another little ingenious touch: the hardware was separated into different bags and labeled by step with a unique symbol that the manual referenced whenever it was time for that particular batch of parts to be used.
The fan had tons of extra wire, so it was just a matter of threading it up through the longer rod. Then I attached the rod to the fan (it twisted in and got held in place by a screw) and I clipped most of the excess wire off. With the mounting bracket doing the work of holding the fan up, it didn’t strain me at all to connect the wires (and the instructions were very clear about what color went where).
Last but not least was installing the cap at the base which is where a light kit could go eventually, if we ever decide we want one (hence all of the wires that get tucked away in there). As much as we wanted to sit back and celebrate our first-fan-ever-installed victory, there was the minor detail of getting the second one up.
We’re also relieved that our instinct to go dark with the fans was one that were really happy with. Now, if only we had finished this project about a month ago when their cooling action was actually still needed. Looks great- you will be happy you chose the dark fans- we put white fans outside on our porch and for some reason they get very dirty and have to be wiped off all the time. We’re planning to furnish it much like the deck (with outdoor friendly pieces) and will probably bring things like the outdoor pillows and small occasional tables in each winter. Given Virginia’s wacky weather at times, you just might be using those fans in early March, so well done on getting them in before the summer! About the too white ceiling in the pictures: do you use the automatic whitebalance setting on your camera? Harbor Breeze are an ideal ceiling fan for the indoors as they tend to be able to move large volumes of air around the home. To ensure that your fan is securely mounted to the ceiling and for your safety during installation, read all of the instructions packed with your fan. Turn OFF electricity at the main fuse box (or circuit box) that controls the power to the fixture or the room you’re working on. An appropriate junction or outlet box securely attached to the building structure is required.
Secure the mounting bracket to the ceiling electrical box with mounting screws and lock washers. At this point, if you have a fan with a three-position mount, you’ll need to decide whether to use a close-mount or downrod installation. A downrod allows the fan to be hung from high ceilings and are available in various lengths to accomodate your home’s architecture.
Thread the lead wires from the motor (black, white and blue) through both the canopy and downrod. Affix the hanger and downrod to the motor assembly by tightening the set screw on the side of the downrod. After the connections are made and the wires are carefully tucked into the outlet box, make sure the tab in the bottom of the hanger bracket is seated in the groove of the hanger ball. Remove the larger screws and lock washers from the top of the decorative fan motor housing.
Hang the fan on the J-hook (if applicable) by using one of the holes at the top of the canopy.
After the connections are made and the wires are carefully tucked into the outlet box, remove the canopy from the J-hook on the mounting plate. If your fan comes with a light kit, it may already be wired and in place, requiring only that you install the bulbs and globes.
Feed the light kit wires (black and white) through the holes in the cover plate, and screw the plate tightly to the light kit to prevent it from vibrating loose.
Carefully push the wires back into the switch housing, and attach the light kit to the switch housing with the provided screws.
If you are having difficulty following these instructions, please leave us a comment below and someone will get back to you to give you some assistance.
Now, lets move on to bathroom exhaust fans and the more complex bathroom fan light heater units for ventilation.
Most bathroom exhaust fans are important for more than the most obvious reason, they also pull moisture out of the air and deliver it outside. Please Select Username to appear on public areas of the site like community and recipe comments. This article shows the best way to vent a hood and exhaust fan that's above the stove when you have an interior wall with cabinets above. Connect the ductwork with sheet metal screws, wrap the connections with aluminum faced duct tape, then wrap the attic part of the duct work with an insulated sleeve.
If you want to replace the hood and exhaust fan above your stove and vent it to the outside, and the stove is against an interior wall, you have several options.
From the inside wall of a ranch house (one level), that route usually means going up through the attic and out the roof. Whichever route you choose, make sure the total duct length doesn't exceed the fan capacity.
Go up in the attic, find the coat hanger and push insulation aside to make sure there are no joists, electrical wiring or other building materials that might block a 6-in.
If you live in an area where frost occurs, add an insulated duct sleeve to the portion of pipe in the attic. Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. A traditional ceiling fan has approximately 60 parts and can take up to two hours to install.
Ensure safe installation by using one of our sturdy fan support braces or boxes to hang your fan.
01525 - Support Brace for New Construction (Boxed)01525-11 - Support Brace for New Construction (Bulk Packed)US Patent No. 01050 - Dual Mount Fan and Fixture Support Box (Boxed)01050-11 - Dual Mount Fan and Fixture Support Box (Bulk Packed)US Patent No.
Bath vent fan installation, troubleshooting, repair: this article series explains why bathroom vent fans are needed and describes good bath vent fan choices, necessary fan capacity, and good bath vent fan and vent-duct installation details.
We explain how to install bathroom exhaust fans or vents, the vent ducting, the vent termination at the wall, soffit or roof, vent fan wiring, bath vent duct insulation, bath vent lengths, clearances, routing, and we answer just about any other bathroom ventilation design or installation question you may have. Ventilation in bathrooms is important to prevent moisture damage to wall and ceiling surfaces, decay of wood trim, saturation of building insulation, and mold contamination. Especially in bathrooms where a shower is used, large amounts of moisture are added to room air and are concentrated in this area. Our photo (above-left) shows a horrible bathroom ceiling vent fan ductwork job: multiple ducts sprawl around in the attic, all joining to terminate at an attempted through-roof vent that has fallen back into the attic.
Flexible plastic vent fan ductwork: shown at above left is a common use of un insulated, flexible ventilation fan duct.
Flexible metallic exhaust fan ductwork: shown at above right is flexible metal exhaust fan ductwork. Our photo at above left illustrates a solid metal bathroom exhaust duct along with the bath vent housing installed in a cathedral ceiling during new construction. Because this is a sloped cathedral ceiling it was not possible to slope the fan ductwork back down towards the shower below the fan. I'd have preferred using a fire-resistant foam, but if the above conditions are met you should be ok.
Flex duct routing details: If you are using flexible fan duct, stretch the flexduct tight to keep it as straight and smooth inside as possible.
Do not spill bath vent air into the building attic or roof cavity where it will condense on and damage building insulation, roof sheathing, possibly framing, and where it will certainly encourage mold growth.


Isn't there a danger of wet bathroom exhaust air re-entering the attic through the soffit vents if the fan is exhausted through the soffit? Our article BATHROOM VENTILATION cites the importance of venting bath vent fans to the outdoors, not into an attic or crawl space. The question about moist air reentering an attic through soffit vents after it has been blown out of an exhaust vent opening is a fair one, but I don't think that's likely to be a significant building moisture source. Or speaking from empirical experience, having inspected several thousand homes and having looked very carefully at moisture and mold stains and patterns in attics and under roofs, I've not found any instances of back-venting of problem moisture into the attic through the soffit vents near the bath exhaust vent that presumably is blowing out through the same soffit or a nearby building vertical wall.
Bath exhaust fan duct length specifications and restrictions are discussed separately at BATHROOM VENT DUCT LENGTHS.
Reader Question: is it OK to vent a bath vent fan straight-up, vertically out through the roof?
I am going to install a new bath fan, I am having a new roof put on the house and decided now would be a good time to put the vent on the roof. My question is I got a vent for 6" ducting, I will need a reducer at the fan end to 4" Would this be a good size duct for the fan.? You've raised several key topics, and your question helps us realize where we need to work on making our text more clear or more complete. For example on site I might notice something about your attic and roof structure, ease of routing venting, placement of insulation, and even very basic stuff like - where the heck is your home? I prefer to run a bath vent to outdoors via a horizontal line that goes across an attic and out through a gable-end wall or one that vents down and outside through a roof overhang or soffit. The vertical run guarantees that any condensation runs back down into the fan (risking damaging the wiring or fan motor) and back into the bath or bath ceiling. The vent fan manufacturers installation instructions typically give maximum run lengths and recommended vent diameters for their products; long vent runs and vents that use plastic dryer-type flex-duct (not your case) cut the effectiveness of the fan by adding airflow resistance and thus increase the risk of accumulated moisture too. I am guessing that for a very short bath vent duct run, going to a larger duct size is fine - it'd make no difference but you're probably not gaining a thing on a short run by using a 6-inch duct to vent a fan that expects to vent through a 4-inch duct. In my experience inspecting and troubleshooting buildings, I've seen many bath vent fans that seemed ineffective. The fan capacity you need depends on the size of the bathroom being vented - usually calculated in cubic feet.
Sorry that these notes are a bit long on arm-waving and short on more specific details, but as we've got no information about your particular installation except what's in your original note, I have to stop here.
Bathroom vent fan duct length restrictions: keep the fan duct length as short and straight as possible.
Some manufacturers require a minimum distance between the duct outdoor termination and the fan assembly; a review of installation guides for several bathroom vent fan models did not come up with a maximum distance.
Details about maximum and minimum bath fan duct run distances or lengths are at BATHROOM VENT DUCT LENGTHS. Typically the bathroom vent fan is powered by the bathroom ceiling light fixture circuit; some installers, particularly in hotels or rental units, hard-wire the bath exhaust vent fan to force it on when the bathroom ceiling light is on - thus assuring that the vent fan is in fact used. Continue reading at BATHROOM VENTILATION DESIGN or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below. I have come across your site 3 times, as I continue to get our recently purchased 1950's home up to snuff. Are there any restrictions on how close an exhausting bath vent may be placed to an exhausting vent for a gas water heater? You will see that the required distances range from 1 foot to 7 feet depending on what's being cleared-from.
My builder has installed a small 4" extractor fan in a newly created utility room with a door to outside, but no windows. Mary I'm not sure I've got the whole picture, but I'd agree that a metal or plastic duct liner would have made cleaning easier and would have reduced the chances of damage should moisture accumulate in or condense on the sides of the air path. Question: Can I vent a bathroom into the attic space that has soffit vents and a ridge vent? Well air flow may carry moisture but enroute, flowing across attic surfaces it will also deposit it on cooler surfaces - leading to mold-sorrows later. We get a sewer smell in two of our four bathrooms in the fall when it turns cold and also in the spring.
You might also be facing odors exacerbated by partly clogged drains or defective vent piping. Anon the best answer is site specific - depending on framing and construction details such as which way ceiling joists run I might go into the ceiling and then out through the wall, or I might place a vent right into the exterior wall. Your installers needed to adequately seal or baffle around ceiling vents, ducts, HVAC air intakes, etc. There is a more serious worry here if your bath vent is for a ceiling exhaust fan: loose fill insulation that enters a power-operated bath vent can clog it leading to overheating and a fire.
We moved into a house built in 1999 in north Florida and learned that the bath exhaust fans are connected to the HVAC ductwork and not to the outside. I can't be as smart as an on-site expert who will see important details we can't, but what you describe sounds wierd to me.
Why is the air from my bathroom exhaust fan blowing down into the bathroom instead of blowing up and out?
If your fan is ONLY an exhaust fan then it's running backwards OR there is no exhaust vent.
John Cranor is an ASHI member and a home inspector (The House Whisperer) is located in Glen Allen, VA 23060. Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors. In other words, a few got to stick around, but we’re not really in the practice of adding to our total-house-fan-number, if you know what I mean. And then Sherry still insisted on triple-checking things with our little live current tester (sometimes outdoor wiring can be tricky – for example in our first house a few outdoor things got power from a shed way back in the woods). The little ball at the top of the rod slid into the mounting bracket with virtually no effort and within seconds my arms were free. The first one took us a bit longer because of instruction reading and photo taking, but I still think we got both fans up in about 90 minutes. Sunny spaces like this can usually use some contrast, and these fans are finally giving the light blue ceiling and all of that white trim a little pow, if you know what I mean. For some reason it looks very Southern (open porch space, dropped fans to cool away the warm air), at least to Midwestern me. Instead of shooting in A mode we have been trying to shoot in Manual, but something about our settings drained the blue right out (the first pic was taken in A mode).
Since ceiling fans are usually used to replace existing light fixtures, the wiring to the fan should already be complete. For maximum efficiency, they shouldn’t have any obstruction within 24 inches of the blade tips.
Replace the old box with one labeled as approved for ceiling fans or ceiling-suspended paddle fan installation.
If there isn’t a 2-by-4 wood brace between the joists but you have access to the framing through the attic, add a brace. These may be positioned either from the attic or from below the ceiling, through the rough opening. If the fan comes with a J-hook, install the mounting bracket with the J-hook toward the floor. Connect them to the light kit wires with wire connectors — white to white and blue to black. Harbor Breeze Fans we believe are one of the best fans on the market and hope you will share this page with your friends by clicking the share button below. These fans can be put in as part of the finish work, but as usual, the venting should have been done along with the HVAC before the insulation and sheetrock was put up. They are a snap to install if you use dryer vent.When installing the dryer vent, youa€™ll need to be careful not to twist or kink it. The vent cover will completely cover the hole and the flange will stick into the hole and connect to the dryer vent.
The wiring should have been run with the electrical so ita€™s just a matter of connecting the hot and neutral wires.Some fans are a fan, heater, and a light. We'll cover how to run an insulated duct sleeve through the attic and out the roof to get the best airflow.


You could also go up into the cabinet above the stove—then horizontally to the closest exterior wall, either through the cabinets or in the area above the cabinets.
Attach all ductwork, then go up to the attic and reposition the plumb bob so it drops straight into the middle of the pipe coming up from the kitchen. This revolutionary installation system makes ceiling fan installation quick, safe and easy! In this installation the duct is improperly installed, spilling directly into the attic space of the building.
This material is more smooth-surfaced than the plastic product shown at above left and by its flexibility, can eliminate the need to install many elbows in the system. Solid ductwork has a smoother interior surface that improves airflow, though it is indeed more trouble and a bit more cost to install. The ceiling cavity between the I-Joists was later insulated with solid foam, as shown at above right. I sprayed insulation foam ( not the fire block ) around the bathroom vent fan in an attempt to seal small air leak from the attic . Take a look at the bathroom vent fan duct installation in the photographs above and you'll see a succesful bath vent installation in a foam-insulated cathedral ceiling. Once blown at any velocity into outdoor air, the moist bath vent exhaust air is diluted significantly. Is it ok to vent the bath vent fan through a larger duct size than the fan's outlet diameter? A competent onsite inspection by an expert usually finds additional clues that would permit a more accurate, complete, and authoritative answer than we can give by email alone. Bath ventilation worries may be a bit different in a cold climate than in a warm dry one and different again in a wet humid climate. I prefer to minimize the number of roof penetrations on any building since every penetration is a potential leak point, more so if the penetration flashing is not installed correctly. Metal duct work (your case) is in my opinion always a better installation: smooth interior means better airflow. A fan that nobody uses because it's too noisy means a bathroom that is rarely vented adequately (risking mold, smells, even wet insulation). That figure is matched against the fan manufacturer's recommendations for fan capacity measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Our photo (left) illustrates damage we found in a building ceiling where the exhaust vent duct had been torn during installation.
The electrician wants to finish the job quickly and get paid and go home for a beer and to watch the World Cup on TV. The building inspector doesn't want to crawl into a hot attic, and furthermore, cannot possibly inspect every detail of every job - so over time the inspectors tend to get to know individual contractors and to trust (or not trust) their work, making just spot checks on it. I am following up on this with the buildings inspection office and getting everything rerouted properly. Cramer is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors and is a Florida home inspector and home inspection educator.
The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. But the thought of installing new fans STILL wasn’t something that my brain could get excited about.
For example, this manual included a section for double-checking that your ceilings aren’t too angled for the fan to be compatible. This is basically what secures the fan to the fixture box, which needs to be braced properly for the weight of a fan. Thankfully our winters are pretty mild and only last a few months so we’re excited to get to use that whole back area for 10 months out of the year or so.
Installation isn’t difficult and only requires that you pay attention to the instructions.
The hook will support the weight of the fan motor housing for a hands-free wiring installation.
Secure the connections with electrical tape to prevent the wire connectors from vibrating loose during operation.
If you want a bathroom fan light heater unit, then you'll need to plan ahead in wiring before the walls go on. There is usually one exhaust vent on the roof or the side of the house in medium sized houses.
In this case you will have three sets of wires to keep straight and run to a switch or switches as wea€™ve covered in the electrical section.
Unfortunately, running the vent that way eats up valuable cabinet space, and it can be tricky to install, especially if you attempt to run it in the soffit area because of obstacles. Then examine the roof directly above the wire to make sure there's room to install a roof vent. We believe you should spend less time installing and more time enjoying the beauty and the breeze of our ceiling fans. This duct material is least costly at the time of installation but may be most costly when a combination of accumulated condensation and duct damage leaks into the building insulation or ceiling cavity.
The CFM rating of the fan in turn presumes that the vent routing, diameter, length, and number of obstructing turns and bends is within the company's specifications. I have two concerns; first when I have this running for one bathroom i don't want it sucking all the heat out of my house (in winter) from the other 3 bathrooms. Or should I try to go around the upstairs rooms to get to the gable attic, and to a vent there? So it settled on assuming the task would be difficult and the results would be underwhelming. They even marked the corner of the page so you could fold it down and hold it against your ceiling to check the angle and be sure.
The good news was that the electricians took care of that bracing step for us when they added the two fixture boxes, so we just needed to secure the top of the fan to our already braced box. Or maybe it was just how finished they made the room look (assuming you kinda held your hand over the lower half of this photo).
You can manual correct that when taking pictures, but I usually keep it on that setting and use the white balance (remove color cast) corrections in Photoshop. Make sure you have the right model when installing and also check our manuals page for a downloadable manual of your model. If additional wiring must be done to install your fan and you aren’t familiar with wiring, consult a professional electrician. Bend the two legs of the cotter pin to ensure that the connector pin doesn’t slip out.
Drop a plumb bob down from the roof to the wire so you can find the approximate roof exit location.
The second just seems like a long distance, but I can't find much info about venting out the side of the house. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. We have some hideous fans that are in need of replacing and I’ve been a little bit leery in replacing them since there are so many factors.
Fans over 35 pounds, with or without accessories, require additional support independent of the outlet box.
Second I have some long runs in my conditioned attic (60-70ft) is this too long and should I pitch the pipes or worry about condensation ? Galow specializes in residential construction including both new homes and repairs, renovations, and additions.
Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home.
Loosely hold the wire and direct it through the ceiling drywall approximately where your vent pipe will go.
Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order.



Bathroom wall fan heaters reviews electric
Hunter ceiling fans problem
Ceiling fan energy consumption


Comments to «Installing fans in series»

  1. Roska writes:
    The cutting of the modest gauge variety of Nutone QTRN110L Ultra.
  2. 66 writes:
    • Contemporary style • Included Remote Handle all the contemporary advantages of a ceiling fan - heating into.
  3. ToXuNuLmAz007 writes:
    Analysis, videography, and editing, to evaluation the remote controls.
  4. svetlana writes:
    And cooling equipments Ace Hardware is your one stop shop for discount on Commercial Electric 1-Light.
  5. Anjelika writes:
    High or how steeply angled your ceiling pace which.