15.02.2016

How to connect ceiling fan light wiring 87a,best oscillating pedestal fan gumtree,48 inch tropical ceiling fan video,cheap flooring galway - You Shoud Know

Author: admin  //  Category: Big Ceiling Fans


For rooms measuring 76 to 144 square feet, choose a fan with a blade diameter of 36 to 42 inches.
For rooms that are 225 to 400 square feet, use a fan with a blade diameter of 50 to 54 inches. When installed, the fan blade tips should be at least 30 inches from the walls and other obstructions.
Turn off power to the existing fan or light at the main fuse or circuit box and use a circuit tester to verify the power is off.
CautionIf you plan to control your fan with a wall switch, make sure you have the right switch. Good to KnowIf your electrical box has wiring for separate fan and light switches but you aren't installing a light with your fan, trim off the bare portions of the wires for the light. If you're installing a new electrical box, fasten it to a ceiling joist or a 2 x 4 wood brace between two ceiling joists. Good to KnowInstallation on angled ceilings may require a separate downrod and an angled mounting kit. For a fan with a downrod, thread the wires through the canopy trim ring (if applicable), canopy and downrod.
For a flush-mount fan, thread the wires from the fan motor through the top housing, trim ring (if applicable) and canopy. For a downrod installation, insert the downrod into the collar yoke on the fan motor and secure it to the motor assembly as the manufacturer instructs. For a flush-mount installation, attach the top housing, trim ring (if applicable) and canopy to the fan motor assembly. Fans that work in either downrod or flush-mount applications may need additional adjustment to convert them for a flush-mount installation.
CautionUse pliers, a wrench or a screwdriver to secure the fasteners that hold the downrod to the collar yoke. If there is no hook or downrod, have a helper support the fan while you follow the steps below. Good to KnowSome fans come with a support cable that wraps around and fastens to the brace in the ceiling that supports the electrical box.
Use wire connectors to join the wires according to the fan manufacturer's instructions. Good to KnowSecure the wire connectors with electrical tape to prevent them from vibrating loose during operation. Tuck the wires into the electrical box, keeping the green wires and white wires on one side of the box and the black wires on the other side. Good to KnowIf your fan includes a light kit or if the installation site has separate wiring for a light switch, you will have additional wiring.
Good to KnowSome fan kits include grommets you need to install in the blade mounting holes before attaching the blades to the brackets. Remove the switch housing cover plate from the fan and remove the plug from the center of the plate. Feed the light kit wires from the light kit through the hole in the cover plate, and screw the plate tightly to the light kit to prevent it from vibrating loose. Good to KnowIf you use wire connectors rather than plug-in connections, secure the wire connectors with electrical tape to prevent them from vibrating loose during operation. You can also check to make sure the blades are all mounted at the same height from the floor. If the fan still has a wobble, you may be able to correct it with a balancing kit — included with many fans. The first step (as always) is to determine what circuit breaker feeds power to the circuit we are working on, and shut off that breaker.  For a quick review of safety considerations when working around electricity, CLICK HERE. Now that the breaker is off, and the electrical panel is locked (if so equipped) so nobody can accidentally turn the breaker back on while you are working on the circuit you can safely begin working. If you don’t have provisions for locking off the access to the panel, put a piece of electrical tape over the breaker handle holding it in the off position, and post a note warning others to leave the breaker off. The next step is to remove the canopy of the fan to check on the existing wiring, and plan for the installation of the remote control receiver unit.
The white wire from the supply cable will connect to the line in neutral, and the black wire will connect to the live in, or power in wire from the receiver.
With all the connections made, we need to tuck the wires back into the box and install the remote receiver in the space available in the mounting bracket. When the remote receiver is installed and the canopy and trim ring are back in place, we can now make our changes in the multi-gang switch box.
With the switches back in place, and the faceplate installed, it’s time to check our installation.


Changing a ceiling fan to remote control is an excellent solution for many applications, but especially in a bedroom where the switch is by the entrance door.
If you aren’t comfortable and confident in safely completing a project like this on your own, use the box on the left of the page to find a reliable trusted licensed electrician in your local area.
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Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. Installing a ceiling fan is an easy DIY project, provided you follow manufacturer instructions.
Note: this project is designed for installing a ceiling fan where an overhead light fixture already exists. If you’re not using a brace bar, measure the distance between the ceiling joists, and cut a piece of 2″ ? 8? framing lumber to span the distance, and secure with screws. NOTE:Once ground wires are connected, carefully tuck wires and marrette into the metal outlet box making sure that the wires are clear of the hemisphere and downrod when positioned in mounting bracket(Downrod Mount Only).
NOTE: Once wires are connected, carefully tuck wires and marrette into the metal outlet box making sure that the wires are clear of the hemisphere and downrod when positioned in mounting bracket(Downrod Mount Only). NOTE:Should connectors on lead wires of light kit not match with connectors in the switch housing, cut connectors off and join with marrettes. Keep an eye out for fans with the ENERGY STAR® logo, and enjoy even more energy savings.
If there isn't a suitable joist or brace available, but you have access to the framing through the attic, add a brace that can support the fan. If your electrical box is a thin, pancake-style box, separate and tuck the wires into the fan canopy. Connect them to the wires from the light kit according to the fan manufacturer's instructions. Depending on your light kit, you may need to attach light shades before installing the bulbs. With this particular fan, a trim ring conceals the four mounting screws that hold the canopy cover in place. There is a 3-wire cable in the outlet box that provides a common neutral (white) wire, and the fan’s light kit is connected to the red, and the fan is connected to the black conductor.
This can be a difficult job to make everything fit, but it’s important that everything fits in nicely and that no wires are pinched or jammed in too tightly so to avoid any damage to the conductors, potentially causing a short circuit condition.
Remove the faceplate and the device screws and determine that the switch that controlled the light has a red wire on one terminal, and the switch that controlled the fan has a black wire on one side of it.
You can keep the remote on the bedside table, and have access to the light and the fan if needed in the middle of the night, without getting out of bed! Please consider updating your browser to the latest version of Internet Explorer or Google Chrome. It helps circulate cool air in the warm summer months, but can also help push heated air back down in the winter, making the temperature feel warmer and allow you to dial down the thermostat.


Turn off the electricity at the breaker box, then carefully remove the old light fixture and it’s ceiling box with a screwdriver. Following the instructions on the brace bar, position it perpendicular to ceiling joistsand twist the outer bar until it locks into the foot.
Carefully pull the wires through the knockout hole in the receptacle box, and attach the fan’s mounting bracket with the hardware included. Lastly, if necessary follow the instructions for wiring the lighting kit: white to white, and blue to black.
Do a final check to make certain everything is secure and turn the power back on at the breaker.
Should the following method not meet your requirements call or visit your Signature distributor for a full list of fan accessories.
Once you select a fan, check the included documentation for any additional requirements for blade clearance or ceiling height. Don't use the fan with any solid-state speed-control device, dimmer or variable-speed switch unless it's specifically designed for use with a ceiling fan. Except for the bare or green ground wire, no bare wire or wire filaments should be visible outside of the wire connector after connecting the wires.
Some manufacturers simplify the electrical connections between the fan and light kit with plug-in connections. We only need one of these switched hot wires to act as the master power for the receiver unit. Both switches will have a black hot wire from the same hot splice connected to each switch.
The fan speed and direction will have to be set to the desired position using the pull-chain and reverse switch, and the light kit pull-chain will have to be on as well in order for the remote to work. It’s also the perfect weekend project for a homeowner, since you can accomplish the task in a few hours and enjoy the investment immediately. The blades need to be at least 18-24? from all walls, and be a minimum of 7? from the floor, and 10? from the ceiling. Make sure the wiring is in good condition and consult an electrician to replace if necessary.
Attach the fan’s down rod with the ball end towards the ceiling, and secure (usually with an included cotter pin). Secure the wires with connectors or electrical tape and tuck the wires into the switch housing. The inside row till contain 8 holes for 4 blades and the outside row will contain 10 holes for 5 blade use. Errors will be corrected where discovered, and Lowe's reserves the right to revoke any stated offer and to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions including after an order has been submitted. Contact a licensed electrician if you have any doubts or questions about the connections, or if your home's wiring doesn't appear compatible with the changes you're making.
You only need to completely remove one of the screws on each side, and just loosen the other two that are through the key-hole, or L-slots in the canopy cover to allow it to drop out of the way, exposing the mounting bracket and the fan wiring. Choose a 36? fan if your room is less than 12? square, 42? if the room is between 144? and 256? square, and 52? if the room is more than 15?15? square. If you have access from the attic above you can install the box to additional framing between joists.
Making sure the hole is between two ceiling joists, trace the outline of the ceiling box onto the ceiling and cut out the shape with a keyhole saw. Next, connect the fan’s wires to the circuit wires: white to white, black to black, and the grounding wire to the green lead wire of the fan or a grounding screw.
If you have doubts about the suitability of the existing box, purchase and install a new one.
Make sure it's acceptable for ceiling fan installation and will support the weight of the fan. This will screw into the joists, and the ceiling box and fan will hang from the newly added support. I will move the switch we are still using to the middle position, keep the switch for the room’s receptacles in the first position, and then use a blank filler plate to fill the position of the switch we removed.



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