30.11.2015

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Author: admin  //  Category: Ceiling Fan Deals


Go to my Switch Terminology Page where I discuss the terms used for the different types of home electrical switches. When wiring a 2-way switch circuit, all we want to do is to control the black wire (hot wire) to turn on and off the load.
All ground wires (bare copper) are all now connected (incoming ground, load ground and switch ground). Now by understanding the diagram above, go up to the top diagram and by using the concept shown here, just use your mouse pointer on that diagram and follow the flow from black wire (hot wire) to the load and return through the white wire (neutral).
So now that you have a basic concept of wiring a 2-way switch, let's look at the following 2-way switch diagrams to see which type of circuit scenario you have.
In this article, I am going to explain the function and wiring of the most common home climate control thermostats.
The thermostat is the control device that provides a simple user interface with the internal workings of your homes climate control system. In this the most basic of heating systems, as the temperature of the heat exchanger rises, another contact is closed on the line voltage side of the equation, and the fan blower motor starts moving air through the heat exchanger and out through the ducting in the home.
When the ‘fan on’ setting is selected, the contacts between ‘R’ and ‘G’ are closed turning on the relay that powers the blower motor directly regardless of a call for heating or cooling.
If you are replacing an old thermostat with a new digital thermostat, the electronics in these units may need yet another wire for a terminal labeled ‘C’. If adding wires to your thermostat location is not possible, or very difficult, look for a thermostat that is battery powered which won’t require the terminal ‘C’ for operation. Climate control systems have evolved a great deal in the last several years with the evolution of electronic control.
However, the terminals of the thermostats of today are still labeled the same, and provide the same functions as what we have discussed thus far.
Now that you are armed with a basic understanding of the temperature control system in your home, you should now be able to identify what kind of system you have, and what type of functions you will need if replacing or up-grading your existing thermostat.
This entry was posted in Electrical Wiring, Indoor Wiring and tagged air conditioning, cool, cooling, heat, heating, how to, terminal, thermostat, thermostat wiring, wire, wire colors, wiring.
I have installed a new thermostat and my heat will come on like its supposed to but will not go off when it reaches temprature, any suggestions ? I’ve got a 3-wire furnace (R, W, G) and am upgrading my 2-wire t-stat to a new Wifi T-stat. The C terminal is only used as a common return for accessories(humidifier, electrostatic filter, etc) that use power from the 24VAC circuit of the appliance, and is usually terminated within the appliance itself. I have a Rheem 90+ gas furnace, the control board blinked twice with a pause indicating a faulty pressure switch. Since the #2 white wire is allways connected to the fan and compressor, since it doesn't go through a switch.
The selector switch is the way the power from #1 black wire gets to the fan and compressor.


The reason its only 24 volts is so if you touch a live thermostat wire you will not get electricuted. Jay was nice enough to give me his old ceiling fan that I think he took out of his Kitchen. One thing to note about ceiling fans, they are a great deal heavier than an ordinary light fixture. This simple diagram below will give you a better understanding of what this circuit is accomplishing. By wiring a 2-way switch, The circuit below shows the basic concept of electricity flow to the load. This should give you a good basic understanding how the 2-way switch circuit works and will help you in adding or changing a 2-way switch. After you have pulled your switch out from the wall, the wires in the box and connecting to the switch should look like one of the following.
This information is designed to help you understand the function of the thermostat to assist you when installing a new one, or replacing or up-grading an old one. By the use of an adjustable set-point, the job of the thermostat is to turn on either the heating or cooling system to maintain the desired room temperature in the home, and to turn off the system when the desired temperature is achieved. They connect to a 2-wire thermostat (generally a mechanical thermostat with a mercury filled ball connected to a coiled bi-metal strip). They usually operate at 24V ac power, and the source of this control power comes from a control transformer mounted either just outside, or inside the furnace body. If the fan fails to run for any reason, the heat exchanger will get too hot and the hi-limit temperature device will open the circuit to the gas valve, closing the valve and stopping the heat cycle.
This function allows you to circulate the air in the house by using the fan in the furnace without heating or cooling the air moving through the system.
This terminal is for a common connection from the control transformer that will provide steady 24 volt power between terminal ‘R’ and ‘C’ to power the thermostat itself. The obvious down side of this is that if the battery goes dead the thermostat will no longer function. They just get a little more sophisticated so if you are pre-wiring a new home, check with the contractor providing the HVAC system as to what thermostat wiring is required. If you don’t have a C terminal on the appliance just leave it disconnected at both ends. About a month ago the thermostat stopped working properly (would no longer automatically turn on shut off the unit according to the desired temperature setting). When I unscrewed the old one from the wall, there are only 2 WHITE wires coming out of the wall and into the back of the thermostat!!
On a window unit the power runs through a wire that is plugged into the wall outlet then passes through the metal cover. The selector switch also sends the #1 black wire through the switch to the compressor, heres the BUT!


The other wire (red) goes to the thermostat, then the thermostat sends the power to the relays (switches), as the temperature goes up and down the thermostat turns on and off the relays that power the compressor and fans. It sat in the basement for several months until I worked up the motivation to clean it off and put it up.
It’s a Hampton Bay model AC-552 which has three speeds, fan reverse switch (which is great for winter time use) and three lights. They also generate more vibration and motion on their mounting device, therefore an ordinary ceiling light electrical box will not support a ceiling fan. We have two switches on the wall, so we can control both the fan and the lights from the wall switch. First of all we need to go over a little terminology so you know exactly what is being discussed. The Green screw on the 2-way switch is for the ground so all ground wires should be connected as seen below. The line voltage feeding the furnace (to operate the fan blower motor) is transformed down to a safer level of 24 volts (the gas control valve needs 24 volts to open), and after making a series loop through at least one safety device (the most basic and mandatory one is an over-temperature shut down), the power goes up to the thermostat, and when the room temperature falls below the set-point, the contacts close completing the circuit to the gas valve allowing it to open, the main burner to ignite, and begin the heating cycle. Maintenance came in and replaced the t-stat with a new, different kind of t-stat that has a 3 screw (1-heat, 2-ac, 3-not marked) and a (apparently) factory installed wire plug in (green wire). I some how crossed terminals C & W and now I can not get the control board to power up. We had a ceiling fan in this room before, but I took it out because it was squeaking and making terrible noises. Last year when I was in the attic, I checked this particular installation because I was having bad dreams about the old ceiling fan flying out of the ceiling while we were asleep.
This makes it pretty easy to install, as there is no standing on the ladder holding the fan up twisting the wires together while the fan gets heavier and heavier. Whatever you electrical wiring, rewiring or repair project you have, we will come on-site to give you our written estimate - call us or fill out our FREE Quote form. The electricity flows from the hot wire (black) through the 2-way switch (shown in off position) and then to the light and returns through the neutral wire (white). When they wired the new t-stat they used (from the wall) the two black wires, one to the ac screw and the second to the unmarked screw.
I am now in the process of testing the 2 amp fuse and installing a transformer that is showing a secondary reading. Now the unit will only turn on when I turn the temp control knob past 68 degrees ans will only shut off when the knob is turned past 74 degrees.




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