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Absolutely, if properly wired, you can take a single loop of hot water baseboard heat and subdivide it, giving each sub-loop its own thermostat and zone control valve.
Properly wired, the individual thermostat calls for heat, the zone valve opens, when the valve is fully open an end switch in the valve connects a second pair of wires that turn on the circulator pump back at the boiler. Photo at left (reader contributed) illustrates typical wiring connection at two zone valves. When I got into that trouble years ago I was wiring up a Honeywell zone valve to a system already using Flair zone valves. My ugly rough sketch above needs to be re-drawn neatly, but there I show how we successfully wired-up a mixed brand zone valve installation.
Watch out: The Honeywell zone valves are NOT compatible with Flair and White Rogers unless you follow careful wiring details. I give an example above, but you may need to review wiring with the manufacturers of your zone valves.
Zone-A-Trol Valves should not be wired in the same circuit with zone valves of a different make or manufacturer without first consulting your local Zone-A-Trol representative or our factory engineering department for special wiring information. The thermostat wires on the master (primary) control will show about 20-volts from the on-board thermostat relay transformer inside the primary control.
No voltage should be presented by the zone valves, thermostat, or transformer circuit TO the primary Controller. We see 24-volts through the zone controllers and transformer but Zero voltage on the zone valve end switch wires that go to the thermostat TT terminals on the master or primary control. WATCH OUT: to avoid overloading the tt or its power or circuit, check the zone valve wiring instructions. From Flair Manufacturing's original installation instructions for the Flair Zone-A-Trol we include these wiring details. On installations where it is not convenient to wire from valve to valve as in the diagram, a separate 3-color wire conductor can be run from terminals 1, 2, 3 of each zone valve to a convenient junction point.
By observing and respecting the color codes, conductors from corresponding-numberd terminals of each zone valve may be joined or spliced together and a single conductor may be conducted from that splice to the appropriate power and control terminals shown in the wiring diagram.
Watch out: when connecting wires to terminals at the zone valve and at the thermostat or any other control, do not let the stripped end of the wire touch or short out against any other wire or terminal. See this image for Complete and detailed wiring diagrams for FLAIR 2-WIRE ZONE-A-TROL VALVES. At left the thermostat wiring diagram illustrates use of a Flair APOV2 wall thermostat in a typical 2-wire application controlling a heating appliance. In this application the thermostat is acting as an spst (single pole single throw) switch to turn heat on or off, often by operating a zone valve. When used to operate a zone valve the thermostat wires are connected to the zone valve terminals, not to a primary control on the heating boiler.
At left the thermostat wiring diagram illustrates typical use of a Flair APOV2 wall thermostat in a 3-wire application controlling a heating appliance.
In this application the thermostat is acting as a single pole double throw (spdt) switch to control heating & cooling or in some zone valve applications. I am adding a third zone (basement) to my oil fired hot water baseboard heating and have it all planned as far as the plumbing is concerned.
The add-on heating zone will have it's own 24V zone valve so will require a wall mounted thermostat. I guess my question is, can I just connect my new valve and thermostat directly to the aquastat terminals that "appear" to power the other valves and thermostats ? If so, is there anything I need to be aware of, like possibly wiring it backwards and frying something ?
If I can just add the new "loop" directly to the aquastat, in what order are the connections made ?
If you need me to provide more detail on the types of thermostat, aquastat and zone valve I am using I can.
When the TT calls for heat (yes 2 wire is fine) it tells the zone valve for its zone to OPEN. So you'll find a pair of wires from TT to the zone valve and a pair of wires from the zone valve to the circulator relay.
Watch out though: the wiring connections can vary a bit among zone valve brands - if all of yours are the same brand you can look at the existing valve, follow the wires, and you'll see how the zone valve is hooked up. The other circuit is simply connecting the other two wires on the zone valve to the connections on the circulator relay. For the second circuit to the relay, I'm assuming the relay is attached to the circulator pump itself.
Continue reading at ZONE VALVES, HEATING or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below.
Try the search box below or CONTACT US by email if you cannot find the answer you need at InspectApedia. This unique A-Z guide to central heating wiring systems provides a comprehensive reference manual for hundreds of items of heating and control equipment, making it an indispensable handbook for electricians and installers across the country. In addition to providing concise details of nearly 500 different boilers fuelled by electric, gas, oil and solid fuel, and over 400 programmers and time switches, this invaluable resource also features numerous easy-to-understand wiring diagrams with notes on all definitive systems.
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The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors. Electric wall fan heaters need a small amount of energy to drive the fan and this energy is converted to kinetic or mechanical energy rather than heat energy.
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Broan 9815WH High-Capacity Wall Heater features a large capacity, making it ideal for lobbies, entrance Ways, vestibules or any place where high wattage heating is needed. Featuring surface mount design for quick and easy installation, quality construction and quiet operation, this Stiebel Eltron CK 20E (208-240V) Wall Mounted Electric Fan Heater is ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, hallways and any area requiring quick heat. As a compact multi-purpose unit, this Dimplex wall heater is a great solution for your inadequate space. This entry was posted in Tower Fans and tagged Best Electric Wall Fan Heater, Electric Wall Fan, Electric Wall Fan Heater on August 24, 2013 by longer. Stiebel Eltron's range of room heaters provide a safe, comfortable environment with a high level of energy efficiency. Stiebel Eltron Australia's range of wall mounted fan heater and panel room heaters are all designed to provide quick response heating from an attractive appliance that blends in with the style of any room. Our electric heating appliances from Stiebel Eltron Australia are all sold assembled, so installation is as simple as mounting the heater on the wall and plugging it in. Our Stratos gas wall heater will be the perfect addition to any room of your home due to its compact design and quiet operation – rooms will be kept toasty warm even in the dead of winter. Room heating products from Stiebel Eltron Australia also provide efficient energy consumption, which can have a great impact on the environment and on your heating bills. We include wiring diagrams for most zone valve models and we describe special wiring problems that can occur if you mix different types, brands, or models of heating zone valves on the same hydronic heating (hot water heating) system. Where you can run into trouble is with an installation that has a mix of different brands of zone valves. I called my heating supplier who had Dave Ferris (now retired) on deck to answer wiring questions.
Without Dave the next-best is to lookA  with care at the instructions that came with the zone valves, and at the wiring diagrams for hook-up instructions; if you are left still confused, the manufacturer will know how to hook-up. But as the thermostat is basically an on-off switch, indeed we've discussed with readers the successful combining of more than one zone valve switched by the same thermostat. For switching multiple zone valves with one thermostat you may need to have the thermostat control a switching relay that in turn switches the gang of multiple zones.
We were taught to completely remove the zone valve motor and electrical parts while sweating the zone valve to the heating system piping, but even so, overheating can damage the zone valve moving parts or o-ring seals.
The Flair Zone-A-Trol valves in the company's wiring diagrams are typically shown wired in parallel. Example, aquastat to one connection at valve, 2nd connection at valve to one connection at thermostat, other connection at thermostat back to aquastat ?
If there are different brands you'll need to ask for a clue from your HVAC supplier or the manufacturer. I have the box on the front of my furnace which contains controls for how hot the water gets and when it needs to be heated. Scott Meenen , G&S Mechanical Services , for providing some common thermostat wiring codes also found at Mr.
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Therefore, electrical wall fan heaters are not 100% ?C but are actually more effective than standard heaters.
The built-in adjustable thermostat with quiet thermally protected motor and transverse blower. Ideal for bathrooms and workspaces, this unit is capable of heating up the room quickly and has a quiet operation. At 240 volts, the Stiebel Eltron CK 20E electric wall mounted heater produces 2000 watts of heat with a fan to help improve heat transfer. Couple this with our advanced German room heating engineering and you can be assured of ultimate reliability and outstanding performance in your Stiebel Eltron wall mounted or panel heating system. Both our wall mounted and panel models are available with features such as variable temperature selection from 0 to 30 degrees Celsius, 24 hour quartz time switch for programmable heating times, a quiet cross-flow fan, in-built thermal cut-out for protection against overheating, double insulation and safety tilt sensors.
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This means that all dryers have to have a blower to move air and a heat source to warm the air, and that airflow is very important.
Honeywell warns not to use silver solder when sweating zone valves because of the higher temperatures required with silver solder.
My other two zones have their own valves and thermostats and the wiring at the valves is all connected with wire nuts and doesn't make any sense to me.
The instructions seem to indicate that I only use the yellow wires and the red wires were for auxiliary, whatever that is. One 24v circuit runs in series as follows - transformer, zone valve, thermostat, transformer. Also, its energy-saving, built-in fan-delay switch is designed to let the heating element warm up before fan starts.
A Stiebel Eltron room heater will transform your home from cold to cosy with a steady, radiant heat. Our gas room heaters have also been given high efficiency energy star ratings, ensuring that you are doing your bit for the environment, too. The drive belt comes directly off the rear of the motor and goes completely around the drum.
It also means that all dryers must have a way to toss the clothes around a bit, because air won't circulate through them if they're just laying there in a big wet lump. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. It also features built-in thermostat for maximum comfort, quiet operation and quality construction.
It also features an attractive white grille with exceptional durability and heat resistance. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. A spring-loaded idler pulley, mounted directly to the motor baseplate, keeps tension on the belt. In gas models, the burner is mounted on the lower left side of the baseplate. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order.
The single circular heater element of electric models is located in a housing behind the drum. The operating thermostats in these machines are located in just inside the door, on the right side of the door sill. The high-limit thermostats are mounted on the upper right side of the duct behind the drum.
Ignitor systems and holding coils on the gas safety valves have varied slightly over the years, but you can find the diagnosis and repair procedures for all gas burners covered by this manual in section 2-3. A temperature control system keeps the air at the optimum temperature for drying and prevents scorching of your clothes. Replace as described in section 7-4. 2) A loud growling noise, caused when the idler pulley seizes.
Finding the thermostats is discussed in the chapter pertaining to your model. There is also a safety system that prevents the heating system from starting at all unless the blower is turning. Replace the idler arm as described in section 7-3. 3) Heating problems as described in Chapter 2. The heater element can be tested by lifting the cabinet top, but changing it requires drum removal. 4) A metal-to-metal scrubbing sound, caused when the front drum glides wear off, or the rear drum support wears out. Over a period of years, enough can build up enough to allow some of the above symptoms to occur.
Replace the rear drum bearing or scrape off the old glides and felt seal and glue new ones on.
The airflow system is discussed in section 2-5, except for drum seals, which are discussed in the chapter pertaining to your brand of dryer. In most models, the blower is the last component in the airflow system. Bearing and glide kits are available from your parts dealer. 5) Look at the circular center plate inside the rear of the dryer drum.
If you have a separate timer and temperature control, consider yourself lucky; the combined units are considerably more difficult to diagnose and generally more expensive to replace.
The front end of the frame is attached by tabs that slip into the baseplate, so after removing the two screws, the motor and blower wheel will lift right out as an assembly. So most repairs stem from just a few common complaints: 1) NOISY OPERATIONA vast majority of these complaints stem from drum supports that have worn out. The blower cover is pressed against the blower housing by a spring between the cover and the motor. In some models, the blower wheel is held to the motor shaft by a screw and a washer. It usually sounds like a loud, low-pitched rumbling sound that slowly gets worse over a period of several months or even years.
This is a very common complaint in Whirlpool or Kenmore brand dryers about 7 to 15 years old. If you have a model with a galvanized cabinet top, remove the screws from the top panel and lift off the panel. With the cabinet top raised, you can test the heater element for continuity. See the chapter about your brand for specifics about replacing the drum support rollers.   In some models, notably GE, if a belt breaks, the belt tensioner will touch the drive motor shaft and a loud grinding or clattering noise will result. This can happen in Whirlpool or Kenmore dryers, as well as some other brands, though it is infrequent. To solve the problem, open the top of ther dryer as described in the Whirlpool section, then remove the plastic vane on the inside of the dryer drum by removing the screws on the outside of the dryer drum that hold it in place. In some models, notably Maytag and Frigidaire machines, things can get by the lint screen (like pencils and pens) and get stuck in the blower wheel. And don't forget to check the insulators and replace them if cracked or broken. Remove the one screw holding the blower suction duct to the blower housing. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan. Then remove the two screws holding on the bottom of the cabinet front (four, on some models.) Next, remove the two screws at the top of the cabinet front panel.
See the section about your brand for details about how to get to the blower in your machine.2) NOT DRYING WELL(See also NO HEAT below) Usually this is caused by poor airflow. Feel the dryer vent exhaust (usually outside the house.) If there isn't a strong blast of air coming out, check the lint screen and open up any dryer vent you can get to to check for clogging.
Remember, as you remove the cabinet front, you are removing the drum front support, and the drum will be free-floating. Also check any flexible dryer vent for pinching. In some machines, if the drum is not turning, there will be no noise or other external symptoms.
If you are simply replacing the belt, slip the new belt around the drum and put the cabinet front right back on. As soon as you have removed and set aside the cabinet front, lift the rear end of the drum and the ball shaft will disengage from its bearing socket. To diagnose, start the machine empty, open the door and look inside quickly, or depress the door switch to see if the drum is turning. To repair, see the chapter about your brand. You may see similar symptoms if the motor has gone bad, except that you probably will not hear the motor turning. See section 2-4(d) about motors. 3) NO HEAT, OR LOW HEAT This can be caused by poor airflow in all dryers, but especially in gas dryers.
Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above. This can also be caused by a problem with the air heating system within the dryer. Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above.   2-3 GAS BURNERSTo access the burner assembly, open the gas burner inspection door. If it is glowing, you will hear another click, the gas valve will open and the flame will kick on.
Bring the burner assembly to your parts dealer to make sure you get the right coil assembly, and don't forget to bring the model number of the machine.   IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT FLAME DOES NOT START (GAS VALVE DOES NOT OPEN)(PILOTLESS SYSTEMS ONLY) Either the flame sensor is not working properly or the safety solenoid coils are not opening the gas valve. It is an especially common problem in installations where the dryer exhaust runs a long way before venting to the outside. Test as described in the section above, "IGNITOR DOESN'T GLOW". Occasionally this problem can be caused by a bad thermostat. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good. It's not worth dying for. Sometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. It is ESPECIALLY important in diagnosing a bad timer. If you already know how to read a wiring diagram, you can skip this section.

If you're one of those folks who's a bit timid around electricity, all I can say is read on, and don't be too nervous. You learned how to use a VOM in Chapter 1, right? Each component should be labelled clearly on your diagram. To test a switch with a certain marking, mark and disconnect all the wires from your timer. For example, in figure G-6, if you want to test the hi-temp selector switch, connect one lead to the M and one to the H terminal.
If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet.
Sometimes they will be labelled L1 and N, but they are still 110 volt leads. Let's say you need to check out why the heater is not working. Since a burnt out heater element is the most likely cause of this symptom, first test the heater for continuity. This switch is located inside of the timer (you know this because it is drawn with thick lines) and it must be closed.
In this example, we have set the temperature on "low." Note that in this machine, on this setting, the electricity flows through both the high-temp and low-temp operating thermostats.
The electricity then flows through the high limit thermostat, so it too must be closed and show good continuity. The electricity flows through the heater, which we have already tested and we know is good.
Then the electricity flows through the centrifugal switch, which must be closed, before going back out the main power cord (L2).   To test for the break in the circuit, simply isolate each part of the system (remove the wires from the terminals) and test for continuity. For example, to test the thermostats in our example, pull the wires off each thermostat and test continuity across the thermostat terminals as described in section 2-4(c). The Y-DB switch is shown in bold lines, so it is inside the timer. However, if you can identify the proper leads, you can use your alligator jumpers to jump across them.
You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is; there is no magic way. In addition to telling the motor when to run, it may also activate the heating circuit or heating control circuits, humidity-sensing circuits, etc. Solid state timers are difficult and expensive to diagnose.
If you suspect a timer problem in a solid-state system, you can try replacing it, but remember that it's expensive and non-returnable (being an electrical part.) If you have one of these units that's defective, you can check into the cost of replacing it, but it's been my experience that you usually will end up just replacing the whole dryer or calling a technician.
If you do call a technician, make sure you ask up front whether they work on solid-state controls. Most timers are nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches. Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your dryer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem. Replace the timer or timer drive motor, or have it rebuilt as described below. Timers can be difficult to diagnose.
If none of the other components are bad, then it may be the timer. Remember that a timer is simply a set of on-off switches. Following the shaded circuit in figure G-7, you test the door switch, push-to-start switch and centrifugal switch. Make sure the timer is in the "on" position and slowly turn the timer all the way through a full cycle. Be patient!) You should see continuity make and break at least once in the cycle; usually several times. If it's a common one, your parts dealer may even have a rebuilt one in stock. For the most part, if your timer is acting up, you need to replace it. There may be several different thermostats side by side; for example 135 degrees for low temperature, 165 for high temperature, etc.
Naturally, it is a bit more expensive than regular thermostats, and difficult to test. You can test a thermostat as described in section 1-4(b) by testing for continuity across its terminals. A cold cool-down stat should show no continuity. If a thermostat fails into a closed position, there is a danger that the heating system will continue operating until something catches fire.
Replace it. THERMISTORSA thermistor is a "variable resistor" whose resistance varies with temperature. Rather than just turning the heating circuit on and off as thermostats do, dryers with solid-state (computer logic board) controls can use a thermistor's input to control the drum temperature more closely.
This can result in lower energy usage. Thermistors are tested by measuring resistance across them with a VOM. This is done in one of two ways. When the air in the drum is moist, the water in it absorbs heat to evaporate. This keeps the air temperature lower, and it takes longer to heat up.   The thermostat on the drum exhaust will keep the heating system on longer.
In these systems, that same thermostat controls the timer motor; while the heating system is on, the timer motor is not running, and vice-versa.
So when the clothes get drier, the exhaust air temperature gets higher more quickly, the heating system doesn't stay on for as long and the timer motor runs more, ending the cycle sooner. The thermostats in these machines have three leads. If the symptoms lead you to suspect that yours is defective, just replace it. Besides heating more slowly, moist air also conducts electricity better than dry air. So another way the engineers design a humidity sensor is to put two electrical contacts inside the dryer drum. The electrical currents conducted by the air are so low that an electronic circuit is needed to sense when the air is moist, but essentially the same thing happens in this system as in the other.
When the air is dry, the timer motor runs longer and times out sooner. The sensors in these machines tend to get coated with gummy stuff, especially if you use a lot of fabric softener in the wash or starch in ironing. The circuit board could have gone bad, too; there is no good way to test it with out a lot of expensive equipment.
The problem is that the heater operates on 220 volts, but the timer motor runs on 110 volts. There is a resistor in the system to cut down the voltage (see figure G-6(a) and if this resistor is bad, you will see the same symptoms as if the thermostat was bad: the timer motor will not run in the automatic cycle. If you have one of these dryers, make sure you test the resistor for continuity, in addition to the thermostat. OTHER TEMPERATURE CONTROLS Selecting which thermostat is used may be done inside the timer, or there may be a separate multi-switch that accomplishes this.
So much, in fact, that if it is allowed to continue being energized in a stalled state, it will start burning wires. To prevent this, an overload switch is installed on motors to cut power to them if they don't start within a certain amount of time. If the motor is trying to start, but can't, you will hear certain things. In some extreme cases, you may even smell burning. If you hear the motor doing this, but it won't start, disconnect power and take all the load off it.
If you have an ammeter, the stalled motor will be drawing 10 to 20 amps or more. STARTING SWITCH Dryers have a centrifugal starting switch mounted piggyback on the motor. There are many sets of contacts inside the switch, and each design is different, even among dryers of the same brand.
Testing the switch is most easily accomplished by replacing it. Remember that starting switches are electrical parts, which are generally not returnable.
If you test the switch by replacing it, and the problem turns out to be the motor itself, you will probably not be able to return the starting switch for a refund.
When buying a new motor, make sure that the pulley can be changed over, or else get a new pulley with the new motor. It may save you a second trip to the parts dealer.   2-4(e) IGNITORSYou can test the ignitor by testing for resistance across the element. Like ignitors, they should show quite a bit of resistance, and defective heaters will usually show no continuity at all.2-4(g) TERMINAL BLOCKIn most electric dryer installations, there is a 220 volt wall plug. If the dryer does not seem to be getting power, but you do have power at the wall outlet, you also need to check the terminal block for problems as shown below.
Replace it if there is any sign of problems. Make sure all wiring is clear and make sure you don't touch any bare wires or terminals, plug the dryer back in briefly, and check the terminal block for power across all three legs as described in sections 1-4(a) and 2-4. Then remove power again at the breaker or fuse.2-5 AIRFLOWAirflow is EXTREMELY important in EVERY dryer. It can come on suddenly (like if something happens to the dryer vent outside the house) or it can show up as a progressive problem, as lint slowly builds up in the dryer exhaust system.First, check the lint screen. I think it's a tribute to Whirlpool engineering that the thing was still running at all with that much lint in it. If the lint screen is clean, check the exhaust system between the dryer and the house outlet.
A really easy way is to disconnect the exhaust system and run the dryer for a few minutes with it venting directly into the house.
If the dryer functions normally, the exhaust system is clogged. If none of the above works, the internal ducting or blower fan is clogged or malfunctioning. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan.

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