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Author: admin  //  Category: Commercial Ceiling Fan

With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. WARNING: Some people try to build this with an optocoupler with zerocrossing coz 'that is better' right? You will find two pictures for the PCB: my first one, that I leave here for documentation purposes and a slightly altered new one. Just a quick cellphone recorded video of it's workings 3 channels This circuit can also be used for an RGB mixer, albeit you need two additional TRIAC circuits.
If for whatever reason the circuit you built is not working, other than it starting to smoke. When cruyising the internet for Triac switches, you may have come across a large diversion in the value of the gate resistor value. WARNING: Some people try to build this with an optocoupler with zerocrossing coz 'that is better' right? I managed to get the same triac you used in the end, but I am having problems getting it to work.
Will the fourth set of 3-way switches be the same even though the lights will be powered from a 12-2 line coming off of box A? Just being nosy why in the world would you want all the light controls at the top of the stairs?
At the lower box connect the white to the common terminal and the red and black to the traveler terminals. For the other three lights connect the whites of their 3 wire cables all to the neutral white (power cable) at box A.
It is difficult to shop locally when the locality slaps you with a fine if you are a little slow getting back to your car. I guess I don't see how wiring four 3-ways at the top of the stairs is a solution to children with little respect for their parent's requests or wishes. Wire the first switch with lights at top of stairs like this drawing using one of the power feeds.

Rather than run from there right to the fixtures tho, I'm actually sending the switched power back down to a box in the basement ceiling. For the neutral connections, the whites for the three 3 wire cables that will serve the lights wired to Box B, and the white of the (2 wire) power feed, and the 2 wire cable white for the light wired into Box A are all in one cluster.
The remaining white (of the 3 wire cable for the switches for the light wired into Box A) is put into the cluster of blacks.
The difference is that I left out the zenerdiode as it is not really necessary and I gave the LED its own (1k) resistor: it is no longer in series with the Optocoupler, that now has a 470 Ohm resistor. In the lower box (Box B_ cpmme cpm cop connect the individual white of the 3 wire cable to the individual white of the light cable. This way only one conduit has to run from the switch back down, which is cleaner, simplifies that box at the top of the stairs and keeps the box-fill under the limit. This area is on the dimmer, since setting the lights to custom levels could be useful here.
Phase cuttingOne way of doing it is through phase control with a Triac: the Triac then is fully opened, but only during a part of the sinus AC wave.
One could let an Arduino just open the Triac for a number of microseconds, but that has the problem that it is unpredictable during what part of the sinus wave the triac opens and therefore the dimming level is unpredictable. For the direct toner transfer, the printed side of the printed pdf file, goes directly against the copper layer for transfer.
Once it is transferred, you will be looking at the ink from the other side and thus see the text normal again.
This is a circuit that tells the Arduino (or another micro controller) when the sinus-wave goes through zero and therefore gives a defined point on that sinus wave. I made slight alterations in thePCB: I removed the zenerdiode and the LED is no longer in series with the optocoupler. Opening the Triac after a number of microseconds delay starting from the zero crossing therefore gives a predictable level of dimming.Pulse Skip ModulationAnother way of doing this is by Pulse Skip Modulation. With PSM, one or more full cycles (sinuswaves) are transferred to the load and then one or more cycles are not.

Though effective, it is not a good way to dim lights as there is a chance for flickering. Though it might be tempting, in PSM one should always allow a full sinuswave to be passed to the load, not a half sinus as in that case the load will be fed factually from DC which is not a good thing for most AC loads. Because the sine wave first goes through double phased rectification, the zero-crossing signal is given regardless whether the sinus wave goes up through zero or down through zero. It is pin compatible with the 4N25, just pop it in and solder 2 wire-bridges between R5 and + and R7 and -.
This signal then can be used to trigger an interrupt in the Arduino.PWM dimmingPWM dimming, as in LEDs is not done frequently with AC loads for a number of reasons. The mains 220Volt voltage is led through two 30k resistors to a bridge rectifier that gives a double phased rectified signal to a 4N25 opto-coupler. The LED in this opto-coupler thus goes low with a frequency of 100Hz and the signal on the collector is going high with a frequency of 100Hz, in line with the sinusoid wave on the mains net.
The signal of the 4N25 is fed to an interrupt pin in the Arduino (or other microprocessor).
The LED in series with the MOC3021 indicates if there is any current going through the MOC3021. Mind you though that in dimming operation that light will not be very visible because it is very short lasting.
Should you chose to use the triac switch for continuous use, the LED will light up clearly. It is possible that depending on the LED that is used, the steering signal just does not cut it and you may end up with a lamp that just flickers rather than being smoothly regulated.

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