01.06.2015

Exhaust fan and light switch wiring troubleshooting,wall fans khaitan news,bathroom exhaust fan grill replacement legs - You Shoud Know

Author: admin  //  Category: Ceiling Lights


The diagrams on this page are for wiring a ceiling fan and light kit often used in a living room or bedroom.
This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights. This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture. This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the built-in pull chain.
Use this wiring when the source is at the fixture and you want to control the feed to both components with the same switch.
Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there.
The right size ceiling fan for your room depends on more than just the square footage or your area. As a general rule, you can start with the recommended fan for a given room size as follows: For a large room of 15'x15' or more, choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 52, 56 or 60 inches. Usually there is a small sliding switch on the side of the motor housing that will control the fan direction. According to the new unit wiring and new switch, I need a 2-wire (plus ground) input running from subpanel to switch and 2-wire (plus ground) and 3-wire (plus ground) running from the switch to the unit to operate properly. So, if the old unit only had two 2-wires running and operated properly, any ideas on how it was wired? If the old unit only had 2 wires (switch leg and neutral) running to it then all three functions had to be either all off, or all on at the same time.
There is no problem with wiring the fan and light portion to turn on together, but you will want that extra switch leg to let the heater run only when you want it. That's the weird thing, the old unit as was ble to operate the light, fan, heater independently using each switch.
Were the switches that controlled the various functions typical looking switches that were separated or were they part of a control where they were all connected together?
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I would like to hook it up so that it either has one switch that turns on both the light and the fan or has two switches, one for the light and fan and the other for the night light. As written earlier it is the house wiring that comes into each box not the special fan cable we need to know about. Your pictures and the wiring diagram both show that the unswitched power from the panel comes to the fan as a complete circuit (both hot and neutral) on the black and white pair of larger wires. The small wires in the switch cable need to be spliced color-to-color to the small wires feeding into the fan. Is there a way for me to have this multi-function ability (the light on without the fan on for example) without having to run new cables down to the switch? There is a similar thread on this forum where another person is hooking up the same light, and just has his normal switch controlling both the fan and the light at the same time. Yeah I know I could run a new cable from the switch to the fixture, but the cable run is not easy in the least (hard to explain, but its not). Obviously I would not have the multifunction ability, but it isn't really a big deal to me.


There was a thread where another poster was asking this exact question and the responses were that it should be fine, but I would like to double check. Yes, I realize it will work, I was wondering if there would be any code violations or danger from doing this. Wiring arrangements for an electrical source at the switch and at the ceiling fixture are included, as well as controls for fan speed, light dimmer and a single-pole switch hardwired to control the light with a pull chain. These include a timer to control the fan, a single-pole switch controlling the fan, and an exhaust fan and light fixture wired on two different switches.
The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box.
The source is at the controllers and the input of each is spliced to the black source wire with a pigtail. The white wire is no longer used for hot and the source neutral is run through to the switch box to satisfy the 2011 NEC requirement of a neutral wire in all switch boxes. The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box. Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral. These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing. There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source. The light is controlled with a single-pole switch and the fan controlled with a timer as in the previous drawing. Furniture, normal ambient temperature for the room, and ceiling height will all have an effect on the efficiency of the fan you choose.
For a 12'x12' room, go with 44 to 48 inches of blade span, and for small rooms of 8'x8' or so, a blade span of 36 inches should do the trick. This function allows for more efficient cooling in the summer and for circulating heat in the room during the winter. The bathroom wiring has it's own dedicated 20A circuit, and had an older 3-switch wall plate. I'm struggling with gaining access to the header board and drilling a new hole to run the needed extra wire. From the fan, power goes to the switch on one of the four small wires in the set and comes back to each function on the other three. The power from the panel needs to be spliced in the switch box to go straight to the fan, It should not be connected to any switch.
The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box. The source hot is spliced to the red wire which is connected to the bottom terminals on the switch at the other end. With this arrangement the light is controlled with the switch and the fan is hardwired for pull-chain control. With this arrangement, the fan is controlled by a pull-chain on the motor housing and the light is controlled with the switch. The hot source is spliced to each controlling device and the output of the controllers are connected as in the previous diagrams on this page.


If you're installing more than one ceiling fan in a room or hall, set the distance between the two at 2 times the blade span. With this attitude, a counter clockwise spin will force air down into the room creating a cooling breeze. In most cases sliding the switch down will set counter clockwise spin, while sliding it up will set clockwise spin. Apparently there was a remodel at some point and the existing wires are drilled through at an angle, I've not been able to run the new wire so far. You could alternately use ENT non metallic flex conduit (AKA Smurf tubing) with 4 conductors and a ground wire. With a flex bit you can dill a hole in the header from the opening left when you remove the switch box. The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end. The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch which runs power back to the fan where it is spliced to both the black and blue fan wires. The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch and spliced to the black and blue wires at the fan at the other end. Clockwise rotation will pull air up to the ceiling, disturbing the warm air collected there and circulating it throughout the room to warm things up. I'll try to post pics of the older switch and unit, I seem to recall a lot of legs tied together inside the unit, is there any way it could have been controlled by the neutrals? The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end. At the other end, the black cable wire is spliced to one of the hot dimmer wires, it doesn't matter which one.
The neutral source and ground are spliced through to the white and ground connections at the fan. If you look at the bottom of the diagram you will see it is based on one 2-conduct cable in that brings power in to the switch box and a second 2-conductor cable carries power to the fan. If the wall isn't load bearing another alternate is to notch the header and cover with a nail plate.
The ground should be spliced with a short piece of wire and connected to each device and outlet box that has a grounding terminal. The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end. The other dimmer wire is spliced to the red wire in the switch box which is spliced to the blue, light wire at the other end.
In these drawing the brass colored terminal represent the hot side of the device and the silver colored terminal represent the neutral. Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one.



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