26.07.2013

Ceiling fan light switch doesn't work xp,indoor box fans use,hampton bay remote stopped working,best online rpg 2013 pc - How to DIY

Author: admin  //  Category: Quiet Ceiling Fan


The first article in this series on electrical wiring acts as the table of contents for the series. Sometimes you want a ceiling light fixture in a room that doesn’t have one but is next to a room that does. This is within the capability of most homeowners, but there are a few things you must know. When you are installing a light fixture, you are also installing a switch, so you will need to run wires down a wall as well as across the attic. For any lighting circuit, the un-switched or permanent power may be in the switch junction box, but may be in the light fixture junction box – you must test to know for sure.
If you desire professional help with your electrical wiring projects and you live in or near Campbell, CA, we would appreciate an opportunity to be of service. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 4COMPRESSOR IS RUNNINGBUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDCOMPRESSOR IS RUNNING BUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDBefore you perform any of the other tests in this chapter, make sure that the compressor is running. About two weeks ago, my wife turned on our ceiling fan light and it seemed as though the light bulbs burnt out (bright flicker, then off).
The old wall switch had three horizontal buttons (top for light, middle was blank, and bottom was fan) and the new one was one with a dimmer. So you are suggesting me to turn all of them (not just the one to the room) off and back on? To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. By Trade Articles and reviews that are trade-specific or suited particularly for a specific trade. Fasteners Hardware and fasteners, including all types of screws, nails, hinges, springs, and other devices you may find in the hardware aisle of your local retailer or supplier. Wiring a ceiling fan and light can seem like a daunting task, but it doesn’t have to be.
The main thing to consider wiring a ceiling fan and light is determining how you want that fan to be controlled.
Having the right tools will help the project to go smoothly and ensure you don’t get bogged down trying to use, for example, a razor knifed to strip wires, when a pair of wire strippers will do the job more accurately and about 10x faster.
It’s always important to follow the local codes in your area when wiring a ceiling fan and light. This method is often used when you simply cannot run a switch into the room, but you do have the ability to pull power to the fan form a nearby location. This method and the following are the most commonly used since they only require a single light switch. This is a slight adaptation of the above method that switches power for both the fan and the light kit form the wall switch. Note that power is fed through the switch and both the fan motor and light kit are recipients of this switched power source. Keep in mind that, while code makes certain stipulations, there are typically different ways to accomplish a wiring connection.
This is identical to situation #3 above, however we wanted to outline the wiring differences when the power is actually at the switch instead of in the ceiling.
Hopefully this guide will get you on your way to installing a ceiling fan and making all of the required electrical connections to get it up and running smoothly. When he's not remodeling part of his house or playing with the latest power tool, Clint enjoys life as a husband, father and avid reader.
So I have two black wires and a green ground wire on the dimmer switch and I really can't figure out how I am supposed to wire this. The black wire attached to the screw on your existing switch should be the feed from the panel. Splice and wire nut the panel feed, the jumper for the second switch, and one of the black wires on the new switch - it shouldn't matter which. Post back if you have questions about connecting the motor control switch, and we can help you with that. You have newer romex there and a plastic box therefore you have a ground connection in the box. It's not a bad thing if you don't mind getting shocked when the power sees you as a better path to ground, or starting a fire when it finds a faster way without going through you. Bond each switch to the ground wires in the cables, which should be all spliced (twisted) together. If it is not running, see Chapter 5.Some refrigerators are very quiet and smooth when they operate.
However, I noticed in the evening that my clock that I have plugged into the top outlet in the same room stopped working.
The house I bought came with ceiling fans in all of the rooms but none of them had light kits on them. Pro Tool Reviews gives you a visual guide and step by step instructions on making the best connections for your particular ceiling fan installation. It’s certainly an acceptable wiring method and the fans all come with pull string switches to control the fans and light kits. The power for the fan motor will typically be black, while most modern day fans will also have a separate blue wire that supplies power to the lights.
In many older homes there was never any thought to wiring up a second switch since most homes didn’t have a powered ceiling fan. What this does is allow you to turn the fan on and off with the wall switch (along with the light) without having to walk over and pull the chain to stop the fan motor. They almost never have a metal inner winding and are commonly undersized, which makes them difficult to use, if not unsafe.
A ceiling fan makes a great addition to almost any room and is one of the easiest projects to complete that can really make an impact in your home and make you look and feel like a real handyman.
The light goes on and off with the switch just fine, but when I pull the chain to start the fan, the fan starts and the light comes on, even if the wall switch is in the off position.
I am having difficulty figuring out how to wire a new switch to control the speed of my fan. I expected to see two black wires connected to the two screws on the side of the switch and a ground wire.
It doesn't look like I need to connect the green ground wire to anything because there doesn't appear to be a ground wire connected in the existing set up.
The black wire stabbed into the back of the switch next to that connection is a jumper that is feeding the power to the other switch. If, in fact, you actually bought a light dimmer switch, take it back and exchange it for a motor control switch.
Many times the blue wire is not connected at the ceiling if there wasn't a light kit originally. ON a scale of 1-10, the level of difficulty on this project is a 5, though it can be more complex if you include the ancillary projects such as running wiring through walls, etc. When working with electricity, always remember to turn off the power, test the wiring with an electrical tester (or voltmeter) to ensure the power is off, secure the panel box so no one can accidentally re-engage power while you are working, and consult a professional to ensure you are doing things correctly and within the specifications of your state and local codes.
While we show a small strip of electrical tape, we recommend actually wrapping it around all the exposed white wire. There are also lots of really convenient switches that put this dual control into one neat little package.
Jumping means that you strip the insulation away from a small area of wire, just large enough to loop around the hot terminal. Secondly, this method of wiring makes swapping out ceiling fans easy as cutting power at the switch eliminates all power to the ceiling box.
What does change is that you can safely deactivate the ceiling fan box simply by turning off the switch. Instead, be sure to grab a small assortment pack at your local home improvement or hardware store.
The third black wire, stabbed into the back of the switch next to where there is a missing screw, should be the wire that feeds the fan. Splice and wire nut the green wire on the switch to the bare copper ground wires that should be in the back of your plastic 2-gang box.
The 4th one in the living room doesn't seem to have power going to the blue wire that says for light kit.
All that’s left at this point is to tie together all the ground wires and neutral wires (respectively).
You then loop that exposed wire around the hot terminal of the first switch and then strip the end and connect that to the second switch.
Note that we still recommend deactivating the breaker and checking your wires with a voltmeter, but it’s worth nothing nonetheless.


This is handy when replacing ceiling fans with a similar model, however we still recommend shutting down the breaker, lest someone walk in on you and attempt to turn on the lights! While typically not necessary, we recommend taping any wire nuts after you make those connections. He hopes his efforts at PTR will provide builders and contractors with reliable and engaging tool reviews to help them make better tool purchasing decisions. But is it a bad thing if I don't run a ground wire from the new switch to the light switch?
If you don't have any green wire around you can strip the insulation off any scrap of 12 or 14 AWG wire and use the bare copper as the bonding jumper for the light switch. The hot returns are then the red wire and the white wire which you tape black (on both ends) to designate it as a hot wire.
Wire nuts are normally very reliable, but it never hurts to add an extra layer of protection to keep them from ever unwinding. Another black wire also coming from the main electrical line runs into the switch but isn't attached via that screw.
And if you don't have any wire at all, almost any hardware or big box store should give you a piece of wire long enough to do this at no charge. This is just a good habit to get into and costs next to nothing in terms of time or money to implement.
Today I bought a rotary switch for the fan so that we can get rid of the annoying cord that hangs from the fan and controls the speed. A dimmer switch, made for controlling lights, starts at low power and adds power as you turn it.
My question is if the blue wire doesn't have power going to it can i just run my black from the light kit to the black(hot) inside the ceiling fan and not even use the blue in the fan box and then just control the light kit from the cord on that. The third black wire runs from the inside of the fan switch and connects to the screw on the other switch(the light switch). Using a dimmer to control a motor will be hard on the motor (as well as the switch) and is likely to harm the motor. If you are still unsure and you own an ammeter, test the current draw of the compressor at the compressor leads. If the knob has an "off" setting which stops the compressor from running, it is thecold control.In the absence of an "off" setting, the easiest way to tell them apart is to pull the plastic knob off the control. The idea is to keep the compartment at a different temperature from the rest of the food compartment; a more optimum temperature for the particular food that you're keeping in these compartments. This is known as "sweating." So-called "Energy Saver" switches control small, low-wattage "mullion" heaters in the side and door panels that prevent the outside of the refrigerator from getting cool enough for sweating to occur. Air flows over it by convection; the warm air rises and is replaced by cooler air from below. Feel for a steady flow of warm air from the drain pan side; it should be obvious (see Figure 11). It has the veryimportantjob of directing airflow beneath the fridge, assuring that the condenser fan is drawing air over the condenser and not just sucking air in through the back of the fridge.
They are sealed units and cannot be rebuilt.Replacing the condenser fan motor can be dirty and difficult. When installing a new motor with bracket mounts, it may be easier to install the brackets loosely on the motor until you can locate the mounting screws in their holes. Thus, when trouble-shooting the evaporator fan, you must depress the door switch(es).Open your freezer door, depress all door switches and listen for the evaporator fan. Look first for a separate access panel or a tower within the freezer that houses the fan (Figure 14). Check for anything that may be blocking the fan, including ice from a backed-up defrost drain or a frost problem.
If nothing is blocking the fan and it still does not run, check for voltage across the fan motor leads (with the door switch depressed, of course.)If you have voltage across the fan motor leads, the fan motor is bad. Itcancause ice to build up in the internal ductwork.If you hear a "whistling" or "warbling" noise emanating from the fan motor itself or from the inside of the food or freezer compartment, it is probably coming from the evaporator fan motor. They don't cost much.REPLACING THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTORIn replacing the fan motor, you must make sure that the rotation of the new fan motor is the same as the old one. The easiest way to do this is to look for the shading poles on the old fan motor (Figure 16).If they are on opposite corners from the ones on the new fan motor core, it is a simple enough task to reverse the new rotor in its core. Do not remove the icemaker (if installed.)Look at and feel the panel covering the bottom or back of the freezer compartment. You will see a removable panel covering the entire back or bottom of your freezer compartment. Make sure the power is off the refrigerator before disassembling any lighting circuit.On some bottom-evap models, you may have to remove some of the plastic moulding around the door frame to access some of the evaporator panel screws.
This can usually be accomplished by placing a pan of very hot water in various places on the panel, or by blowing warm air on it with a blow-dryer.
Therefore, when you are diagnosing a defrost problem, it's a good idea to try to avoid melting the ice encasing the terminating thermostat until you've made your diagnosis.
If the thermostat opens before you've had a chance to see if the heater works, you'll have to by-pass it. There are many styles, but most are variations of the three types pictured in Figure 20.Aback-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted vertically against theinside back wallof the freezer compartment. These may be bottom freezer models, side-by-sides (Figure 17) or top freezer models (Figure 18.)Abottom-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted horizontally (flat) beneath a panel on thebottomof the freezer compartment (Figure 19). Does it have a fluffy (snowy) white consistency, or is it solid and clear-ish or slightly milky white-ish?Check the frostpattern.
Or is it not frosted at all?On back-evap models, examine the drain pan directly beneath the evaporator.
Is it clear, or is it filled with solid ice?Each of these symptoms indicates a different problem.
If you have lots of white, snowy ice, keep reading.4-5 DEFROST SYSTEMIf the frost is snowy and white in appearance, you have a defrost problem.
The three main components of the defrost system are the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the terminating thermostat.4-5(a) DEFROST TIMERS AND ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROLIn most older refrigerators and some newer ones, a motor-driven timer (Figure 21) is used to stop the compressor and initiate a defrost cycle.
If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore refrigerator with a flex-tray icemaker, the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. This is true whether you are using the icemaker to make ice or not; it is running constantly to time your defrost cycles. If you have a defrost problem and you have one of these machines, follow the instructions in section 4-6.Nowadays, refrigerators are being made as efficient as possible, due in no small part to government energy efficiency requirements. Defrost heaters use a lot of energy, so designers are mimimizing the total amount of time that the heater is energized. Such factors include ambient humidity and temperature, the water content and temperature of the food you put into the fridge, icemaking within the freezer, and how often the door is opened and closed.For example, if you go away on vacation for a week, the refrigerator door will obviously not be opened for a long time. Less humid air will enter the fridge than if someone was at home, and opening and closing the door. Frost buildup will be much slower than usual, so the refrigerator will not need to be defrosted as often as normal. It also will not need to be chilled as often, so compressor run times will be shorter and less frequent.Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.To make decisions about the correct defrost duration and interval, the control board must have input about the conditions that the fridge is operating under. Each manufacturer uses a different logic scheme and different inputs, such as door open time, compressor run time, duration of the previous defrost cycle, and duration and intervals of door openings.Door open info is provided to the logic board by the door switch - the same one that controls the refrigerator's internal lights. For example, the ADC is programmed with a maximum amount of time that the heater can stay on; say, for 16 minutes. Often they are mounted under a cover plate or in a bracket that hides all but the advancement pinion. The easiest way to recognize them is that the harness connection is always labelled with the compressor, defrost heater, L1 and L2. The easiest way to see the heater is to look for the heavy, rubber-coated wires leading to it; one on each end.
The element has no protective tubing and generally wraps around beneath the evaporator in a large "U" shape.You must exercise caution when handling these heaters to prevent burning yourself. If that happens, you want to turn the heater off soon after the ice melts, to prevent the evaporator compartment from heating up too much. If theterminating thermostatsenses too high a temperature in the compartment, it opens, and cuts power to the heater. The thermostat will then stay open until the compartment again reaches a very low temperature. In other words, it waits to reset itself until the cooling cycle starts again.If the evaporator is more heavily frosted, the ice may not all melt within the time allotted by the timer.


The heater will stay on until thetimerstops the defrost cycle, and restarts the cooling cycle.If you initiate defrost (turn the timer on) and the heaterdoes notheat up, then usually the heater or terminating thermostat is bad. If you initiate defrost and the heaterdoesturn on, then usually the timer or ADC board is bad, and you must replace it.To diagnose which component is bad, you must initiate the defrost mode, or test continuity through the defrost heater and terminating thermostat.
Within ten minutes (usually much less) you should be able to see a red glow from the defrost heater(s), which is (are) mounted beneath the evaporator.If you have an aluminum-tube heater as described in section 4-5(b), it will not glow red, but youwillsee ice melting away from its coils. Timers can get old, worn and coked up with dust, and may develop hard spots in the bearings. If youdo nothear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, then it is necessary to investigate a little further. If you cannot tell for sure, get the information for your model fridge from your parts man.
DIAGNOSIS: DEFROST HEATER AND TERMINATING THERMOSTATIf you do not hear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, you could be looking at one of several different problems.
The heatermaybe so icebound that it would takehoursfor the heater to melt enough ice for you to see the heater begin to work. If they are not connected to a terminal block, you will need to cut the leads to test for continuity. Make sure you're not testing continuity across the terminating thermostat too; it may be wide open above 40 or 50 degrees. With glass-tube heaters, be careful that the glass is not cracked or broken and that you do not cut yourself.
It's cheap.If you have an ammeter, try to determine if the heater is drawing any power before you melt any ice. In trying to find the heater leads, be careful that you do not melt so much ice that the terminating thermostat opens.
If you suspect that the terminating thermostat might be open, temporarily bypass the terminating thermostat with an alligator jumper as described below.If you cannot find the heater leads, an alternativeis to check the current in one lead of the main power cord.
Double-check this diagnosis by jumping across (shorting) the terminating thermostat with your alligator jumpers.
If the two thermostat leads are not on a terminal block, you will have to cut the leads to jump the thermostat. Remember that it's a wet environment.LIFTING THE EVAPORATORIf you have a bottom-evap model fridge, replacing the heater will involve the delicate task of lifting the evaporator up to get to the heater. If you break or puncture one of those tubes, you're looking at a potentially expensive sealed system repair.Thaw out the evaporator as thoroughly as is humanly possible. Remove the evaporator mounting screws (if there are any) and gently lift up the end of the evaporator opposite the tubes. Prop up the evaporator with a blunt instrument (I use my electrical pliers or a flashlight) and change the heater.
Do what you went in there to do, but as much as possible, avoid moving the evaporator around too much.When you finish, gently lower the evaporator back into place. The hard tray is finished in a dark gray or black color and has rotating fingers that eject the cubes from the unit; the flex-tray has a white plastic, flexible tray that inverts and twists to eject, much the same as a manual ice cube tray would work.
The hard-tray and separate defrost timer is by far the more common arrangement.This defrost system has the same components described in the defrost system in section 4-5, except that the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. However, the actual switch that controls the heater is accessible.Remove the icemaker and the evaporator panel as described in section 4-4. Take the plastic cover off the face of the icemaker and remove the three screws holding the metal faceplate to the icemaker head. Plug the icemaker back into its electrical socket and observe the drive motor in the upper lefthand corner of the icemaker head.
The defrost switch is the small, rectangular switch in the upper righthand corner of the icemaker head.
Using electrical tape, tape it out of the way so it does not touch any other metal object in the icemaker head. Using your resistance meter, you should see continuity (and no resistance) between the empty terminal (where the BLACK lead was) and the PINK terminal.You should see NO continuity between the empty (BLACK) and ORANGE terminal. When the switch toggle is depressed, continuity will be just the opposite: BLACK-ORANGE-CONTINUITY, BLACK-PINK-NO CONTINUITY. If the switch is okay, the problem is probably your defrost heater or terminating thermostat.
Alignment of the gears is critical; follow the instructions that come with the gear sets carefully. If you replace the motor, you will have to re-align the defrost timing gear mechanism.RE-ASSEMBLYIf you have not removed the defrost timing gear housing from the back of the icemaker head or the motor from the front of the head, you will not need to re-align thedefrost timinggear mechanism. However, youwillneed to realign thedrivegear mechanism.Align the hole in the small drive gear with the alignment hole in the icemaker head and install the gear. If they do not line up perfectly, momentarily plug the icemaker in or apply 110 volt power to the two center leads of the plug This will turn the drive motor slightly. Lift the spring-loaded shut-off arm (ice level sensor) as you install the cam and let it rest in the cam hollow. Carefully install the metal cover plate, making sure the end of the wire shut-off arm (ice level sensor) is in its pivot hole in the metal cover plate.
Make sure the icemaker is turned on (ice level sensor arm is down) or it won't make ice.4-7 HOT GAS DEFROST PROBLEMSIf you have a refrigerator with a hot gas defrost system, the defrost mechanism is somewhat different from those described in previous sections of this book. If you suspect that you might have a hot-gas defroster but you are not sure, ask your appliance parts dealer.
Most of these refrigerators were built before 1970, but not all.The main difference in a hot gas system is that there is no electrical heater or separate terminating thermostat. The defrost cycle is controlled by a defrost timer similar to the one you'll find in electric defrost systems, but the timer controls asolenoid valveinstead of aheater.
These units have a temperature sensing bulb, similar to that found on the cold control (see section 4-9 and Figures 21 and 33) as a part of the timer.
Its function is to sense the temperature of the evaporator so the defrost mechanism knows when to shut off.Troubleshooting a defrost problem in this system involves two steps.
Wait and watch your evaporator for 10-15 minutes.If the frost starts to melt, then your defrost timer has gone bad. Thoroughly melt the rest of the frost from your evaporator and replace the defrost timer.If the frost doesnotstart to melt, then your defrost solenoid is probably bad. Fortunately, the defrost solenoid is usually designed so the electrical coil can be replaced without cutting into the sealed system. Trace the Freon tubing until you find electrical wires joining the tubing at a certain point. UNEVEN FROST PATTERNS, OR NO FROST AT ALLThe evaporator should be bitterly cold to the touch. If the evaporator is either slightly cool or not cold at all, and your compressor is runningconstantly(not short-cycling; see section 4-9) you have a more serious problem. The same diagnosis applies if just the first coil or two in the evaporator is (are) frosted and the rest are relatively free of ice or perhaps even lukewarm.What's happening is that the Freon is not getting compressed enough in the compressor. This could be due to two causes: either the amount of Freon in the system is low, or the compressor is worn out. Itmayonly require recharging the Freon system, which, depending on the refrigerant used, may cost you a little, or a LOT. I have only seen one exception to this diagnosis, and this is described in section 7-2.Don't let the age of the refrigerator affect your diagnosis.
Not too long ago, one of the largest appliance companies put out a series of refrigerators with compressors that were either poorly designed or poorly constructed; I never did find out which.
These were their giant, 20 to 25 cubic-foot flagship models, with techno-marvelous gadgets like digital self-diagnosis and ice and water in the door, and they were built with compressors that wore out within 2 years.Fortunately, the biggest and best companies warrant their refrigerators for five years or more, so these refrigerators were still covered under warranty. COLD CONTROLIf your refrigerator is cold but not as cold as usual, and you cannot trace it to any of the other problems in this chapter, your cold control may be defective.
To test its cut-in and cut-out temperatures, you can try putting the capillary bulb in ice water and measuring the temperature with a thermometer, but it's a wet, messy, job and it's difficult to control the temperatures. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometerbulb; in fact, the end of the capillary tube may have a bulb.
The tube and bulbmaybe coiled right next to the cold control, or they may be led away to another part of the compartment.If you are justtesting(electrically) the cold control, you can jumper directly from one wire lead to the other.
By doing this, you are closing the switch manually, and assuming the machine is not in the defrost mode, the compressor should start.If you arereplacingthe cold control, it will be necessary to trace where the capillary tube goes, and remove the whole tubewiththe cold control.



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