15.05.2014

Bathroom exhaust fans adelaide kane,anime fan shop online zara,minka aire ceiling fan capacitor replacement,table fan motor winding 14k - Review

Author: admin  //  Category: Exterior Ceiling Fans


Humidity and lack of proper bathroom ventilation is a major problem in many homes in the Rochester, NY area. Broan Nutone Round Bathroom Exhaust Fan with Light - 751 JavaScript seem to be disabled in your browser.You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. Indoor air quality can be problematic at any time of year, but it is especially a concern during the winter months when all of the windows are sealed up tight…and nowhere is this more evident than in the bathroom.
A bathroom exhaust fan is a key component to preventing humidity and moisture buildup, which can damage paint and also lead to the growth of mold and mildew. Once you ascertain the proper air rating, there are several other factors to consider, including noise level.
Energy efficiency is also a consideration: Energy Star-rated bathroom fans use 20% less energy than minimum federal guidelines. Installing a bathroom exhaust fan is well within the reach of most do-it-yourselfers, although there are some considerations to take into account before you begin: if this is a new installation, you may have to run electrical wiring and ductwork in your attic.
Manufacturers offer a wide range of bathroom exhaust fans, from simple models with few bells and whistles to energy-efficient models with sophisticated controls. This isn’t a very logical ventilation method, especially when temperatures are below zero, or when the weather is 90°F and humid.
In spite of the code’s archaic loophole, builders should install an exhaust fan in every bathroom or toilet room — even when the bathroom has a window. When operated for 24 hours per day or when controlled by a timer, it can act (in some cases) as the most important component of a whole-house ventilation system.
Designing an exhaust-only ventilation system is a topic unto itself, and is beyond the scope of this article.
When the bathroom door is closed and the fan is operating, where is the makeup air coming from? If the bathroom has an exterior wall, some of the makeup air is coming from the exterior — for example, through leaks around the window or baseboard. Some of the makeup air is probably coming into the bathroom from other rooms in the house, via the crack between the bottom of the door and the flooring. Unfortunately, many exhaust fans pull some of their makeup air through a nearby crack: namely, the crack between the housing of the fan and the ceiling drywall.
Homeowners sometimes worry that if they fail to operate their exhaust fan, the bathroom ceiling will stay damp and every surface in the room will soon grow mold. A bathroom that includes a shower that is used frequently is more at risk than a bathroom with a rarely used shower. In cold climates, bathrooms with poorly insulated surfaces are more at risk than bathrooms with well-insulated surfaces.
Just because a fan makes a comforting noise (or an irritating whirr), doesn’t mean it’s moving any air. If you need an accurate measurement of an exhaust fan’s flow rate — for example, to comply with requirements of the Energy StarLabeling system sponsored by the Environmental Protection Agency and the US Department of Energy for labeling the most energy-efficient products on the market; applies to a wide range of products, from computers and office equipment to refrigerators and air conditioners. According to most building codes, a bathroom without an operable window must have an exhaust fan with a minimum ventilation rate of 50 cfm (assuming intermittent operation) or 20 cfm (assuming continuous operation). In the past, many builders and code officials interpreted this to mean that the fan should be rated at 50 cfm.
Most green building programs now require that the airflow rate through a bath exhaust system be verified to determine that the fan and its associated ductwork are moving at least 50 cfm. Some green builders have been surprised to learn that their 110 cfm fans are failing the 50 cfm performance test.
In a 2013 blog, Allison Bailes told the story of a developer who installed bath fans rated at 110 cfm in several new Energy Star homes. Fan makers have begun to respond to reports that builders are failing the 50 cfm airflow test by offering more powerful fans.
Ideally, you want to keep your maximum duct length to 10 feet or less — 20 feet in a pinch — with no more than three elbows. If your duct system is especially long or convoluted, or you ignore the advice in this article and install flex duct instead of smooth-wall duct, you will need to specify a more powerful fan to account for the high static pressure of your duct system.
Fans rated at 89 cfm or less must have a minimum efficiency of 1.4 cfm per watt when tested according to the HVI 916 test procedure. Anyone interested in researching specifications for bathroom exhaust fans should probably consult the data published in the online directory of the Home Ventilating Institute. It’s important to follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer of your bathroom exhaust fan. Verify that the bathroom door has enough of an undercut to allow air to enter the bathroom when the fan is running. Verify that the backdraft damper in the fan operates smoothly, and hasn’t been taped shut at the factory. Install the fan so that the duct outlet is aimed in right the direction — toward the planned exterior termination.
In many cases, it’s a good idea to install ducts with a larger diameter than the duct outlet on the fan.
Verify that the louvers (if any) on the wall termination or roof termination are operating smoothly. The fan pulls exterior air into your home through cracks, and this exterior air needs to be heated during the winter and cooled during the summer.
Because of the energy penalty associated with fan operation, fans should be no more powerful than necessary, and should be operated only as long as required. The simplest way to control a bath fan is to wire the fan to come on with the bathroom light.
This can be accomplished with a “delayed off” switch (for example, the Lutron Maestro) that keeps a fan running for a set amount of time after the switch is turned off.
It’s also possible to install a humidity-sensing switch that turns a fan on whenever the indoor relative humidity reaches a preset level. Some fans — for example, Panasonic’s WhisperSense fan — include sophisticated controls that incorporate motion sensors, “delayed off” features, and humidity controls.
If your bathroom seems damp, you probably want to run the bath fan more often, or run it longer after every shower. If your bathroom seems dry and pleasant, you may not need to operate your fan as much as you are now.
While the tissue test may be a venerable home inspector classic, it really needs to be retired from the toolbag. To get around this, on the last two houses I built I mounted an air-sealed plywood box in the ceiling large enough to contain all of the common fan housings. If this seems like too much work I'd still recommend doing as the BC Building Envelope Guide For Houses recommends and mounting a piece of plywood flush with the ceiling framing to provide a larger and more secure surface to seal both the fan housing and drywall to. You recommend against roof terminations ( I understand that, I think poking holes in your roof is against nature) but also state "In no case should a duct be terminated in an attic or at a soffit.".
Of course, most production builders aren't going to go to the trouble of installing a bath fan the way you suggest. It's worth mentioning that high humidity in the bathroom is really only a problem when it condenses on a surface. Also, I believe that the amount of air needed to dry out a bathroom is many times more than what's needed to dilute smells. You wrote, "It's worth mentioning that high humidity in the bathroom is really only a problem when it condenses on a surface.
An HRV with variable speeds activated by a control panel that monitors humidity and runs on fixed low speed to match required CFM .


Here's my thinking: The roof is completely out of sight (on the rear of the house), while a wall vent would be visible.
Arguing about which is better, a roof termination or a wall termination, is a little bit like arguing over which is better, exterior basement insulation or interior basement insulation.
What's wrong with having a "Flue" or "Chimney" that "connects" to the outdoors at a higher altitude rather than lower?
In a tight house there are not-so-many openings that "connect" to the outdoors (Ocean of Air). The size and altitude of the significant openings are what determines the altitude of the Neutral Pressure Plane(NPP).
In an unvented roof the danger is that vents that terminate on the soffits can cause rot to the surrounding soffit material - although I've never seen it. Unfortunately for many homes, multple kids (or entire families in apartments) share the 8x5 bath, while the parents share the mega-volume master bath. Like many house components bath fan installation involves a few subtrades - electrician, duct installer, sider or roofer, interior carpenter (to undercut the door) and there may be others. Is there any efficacy to the use of direct wall mounted fans in situations where the duct would be hard to properly route? It often makes sense to install a wall-mounted fan, especially in a house where ducting a ceiling-mounted fan would be difficult. A wall-mounted exhaust fan should be installed as close to the ceiling as the wall framing allows.
Backdraft dampers that come with bathroom exhaust fans are not airtight, and there are technical reasons why it's difficult to make them airtight, so some air leakage is inevitable.
The drape damper excels where mechanical dampers fail, wich is at very low pressure , where it should be sitting most of the time on a bathroom exhaust fan. I've been wondering about using a double setup as passive inlet for make-up air for quite some time, but i have yet to try it out. So would you say that a wall mounted (through-the-wall) vent fan is not more-inherently inefficient than a ceiling mounted unit? In my case, a wall-mounted fan would be very easy to install, but I'll go through the extra work to install a ceiling-mounted one, ducted, if there is a reasonable efficiency increase.
The rumors at the big box improvement store is that the through-the-wall units are"leakier," (though I don't often trust those guys when it comes to efficiency). Adding the cape style damper someone mentioned is interesting, but I'd be installing in a 2x4 wall, so not enough distance for that extra component.
I have never seen any reputable data showing that wall-mounted exhaust fans are leakier or less leaky than ceiling-mounted fans.
I really have no advice for you, other than to say that you should choose the approach that you prefer.
We have a bit of a debate going on between a client and the electrician about where to install the bath fan. As long as the exhaust fan is rated for installation in a shower, and as long as it is on a GFIC circuit, there is no reason not to install it where the customer wants it. I'm curious about how the Lunos eGo fits into this, as it's exhaust size is only cfm, but is sold as a good fit for the bathroom. Is the 50 cfm code requirement a good number to shoot for (aside from whether it meets code, as in my case there isn't any)?
The Lunos eGo is rated at 3 to 12 cfm in heat-recovery mode, and "up to" 27 cfm in exhaust mode. Clearly, the airflow rate of this fan is insufficient to meet the minimum code requirement for a bathroom exhaust fan unless it is operated continuously in exhaust mode. Whether or not the Lunos eGo exhaust fan will satisfy the homeowner depends entirely on the homeowner's expectations. To be honest I am far more confident installing a gooseneck through the roof , If installed correctly should never have a leakage issue. Martin Holladay has worked as a plumbing wholesale counterperson, roofer, remodeler, and builder. Hunter Fans Victorian Bathroom Exhaust Fan in Chrome - 81021 JavaScript seem to be disabled in your browser.You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Buildup of humidity in your bathroom can cause black mold in and on your walls which is known to create respiratory problems in people who live with it. Please consider updating your browser to the latest version of Internet Explorer or Google Chrome.
Stale air, humidity, mold, mildew and—to put it delicately—foul odors can wreak havoc with your indoor environment.
Ceiling-mounted fans are installed in the ceiling and vent into the attic or out through the roof. The Home Ventilating Institute recommends that every bathroom have an adequate ventilation system that changes the air eight times an hour. Bathroom fan noise levels are measured in sones, with a higher number of sones equating to a louder fan. In the old days, if the bathroom was smelly or steamy, you were supposed to open a window to air it out.
Yet this time-honored method of bathroom ventilation is still enshrined in our building codes. For more information on exhaust-only ventilation systems, see Designing a Good Ventilation System. Of course, if the bathroom fan is exhausting 50 cfm, then 50 cfm must be simultaneously entering the building. You don’t really want attic air to be entering the bathroom through this route, so fan installers need to remember to seal the drywall crack around the fan. That’s not necessarily the case; in fact, some bathrooms without exhaust fans stay dry and mold-free for years. With a little bit of investigation, you should be able to figure out whether the duct in the attic is crushed or whether the termination is filled by a bird’s nest. There’s a problem with this approach, however: once a duct system is installed, a 50 cfm fan might only be moving 25 cfm.
In other words, they didn't realize that the static pressure of a duct system can seriously affect airflow rates.
The developer assumed that a 110-cfm fan would be powerful enough to overcome sloppy duct installation and still pass the 50 cfm test. There are two solutions to this problem: you can swap out the 110 cfm fan for a more powerful model — say, a 200 cfm fan — or you can fix all the duct problems.
For example, ads for Panasonic’s EcoVent fan boast that the fan includes a booster switch that a builder can flip to ramp up the fan’s speed if the fan fails its airflow test.
If you decide to use flex duct instead of smooth-wall duct, the static pressure of your duct system will increase. Fans rated at 139 cfm or less must have a maximum sone rating of 2.0 sones when tested according to the HVI 915 test procedure. If it’s pointed the wrong way, you’ll have to start out the duct run with two 90° elbows, and that’s a bummer. Joints in galvanized duct should be secured with sheet-metal screws and sealed with HVAC(Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning).
A duct that will terminate at a gable wall should first rise to an elbow that is high enough above the fan to allow the installation of a long run of horizontal ductwork that slopes slightly toward the exterior.
Roof terminations can work, but you’ll usually encounter fewer problems if you put a hole in your gable wall than if you put a hole in your roof. This type of switch usually includes an override switch allowing the fan to be turned on regardless of the humidity level.


Every family is different, however, so it’s hard to establish rules that apply to everyone.
A central zoned ventilation system with automatic dampers, passive intakes and single ECM motor (actually available). Unless you place tissue over the all of the intake vents, you are only evaluating airflow at the location of the tissue. This puts the damper and connections inside the box allowing easy access for connections, removes all problems of air sealing and also means that the whole fan, including housing, can be changed out without any disruption of the building envelope.
I wrote, "In cold climates, bathrooms with poorly insulated surfaces are more at risk than bathrooms with well-insulated surfaces.
The roof is also a shorter duct run with fewer bends, because neither of my fans are very close to a gable wall.
Roof terminations are a particularly poor choice in snowy climates, and are much more difficult to install if you have concrete tile roofing than if you have asphalt shingles.
You don't want them to draw the moist air that was just exhausted from the kitchen into the structure. The electrician connects it, like any other appliance, as they are the only trade licensed to do so.
The main advantage of a wall-mounted fan is that there is very little static pressure (a major problem with systems that have long, convoluted ducts). However, the air leakage problems associated with bath exhaust fans exist regardless of where the fan is mounted. If the bathroom has other cracks, and most do, then you can get away with a smaller undercut. But, are there better-quality exterior dampers that I could replace the stock plastic flapper with? It would be a good idea to control the fan with a time-delay switch, to make sure that the bathroom air is dry after a shower. And if you have to operate it in exhaust mode, you don't get any benefit from the fan's heat-recovery capabilities -- so why buy a Lunos fan for this purpose? For more information on the wide range of homeowner expectations when it comes to bathroom exhaust fan performance, see Does a Home with an HRV Also Need Bath Fans? He built his first passive solar house in northern Vermont in 1974, and has lived off the grid since 1975. An exhaust fan installed by Lon Lockwood Electric will immediately remove the moisture from steam in your bathroom, before it has a chance to seep into your walls and ceilings. Wall-mounted fans are mounted on the external wall of the house and generally are used when there is no practical way to vent through the roof; for example, a first-floor bathroom.
According to HVI, an easy approximation is to provide one cubic foot per minute (CFM) per square foot of bathroom, or a minimum of 50 CFM.
And, as with most home improvement projects, make sure to check on your local building codes before you start work, to ensure that you are in full compliance with local regulations.
If some of the makeup air is entering the bathroom through the crack under the bathroom door, an equivalent volume of exterior air must be entering other rooms of the house through a variety of random cracks in the home’s envelope.
In many cases, the main factor leading to mold growth is missing insulation above the ceiling.
Instead, you’ll need to measure airflow with a device like the Energy Conservatory’s exhaust fan flow meter. While that solution is easy for the builder, a better solution would be to fix the funky ductwork. Other (more sophisticated) fans — those with electronically commutated motors — have airflow ratings that are roughly equivalent at the different static pressures. These switches can be irritating; they often require seasonal adjustments, since normal indoor humidity levels are often higher during the summer than they are during the winter. But I have a hunch that this article will answer your question: Does a Home with an HRV Also Need Bath Fans? I have flow tested a fan that passed the tissue test, but the damper was still taped closed from the factory.
The only downside is that you have to buy a larger vent cover to use instead of the one that comes with the fan, but in most cases this is a plus as the ones they supply are usually fairly ugly. Martin, I was surprised you so swiftly dismissed roof vents, though not too surprised, given your roofing background.
However, it seems like rain might be slightly more likely to find its way into a roof vent, and there is no way to direct condensation out the vent -- it will drip down into the house. The plumbing stacks leak fairly frequently because they usually rely on a neoprene gasket that deteriorates, but roof vents cover themselves with sheet metal in a way that seems to be pretty reliable. 50 CFM (delivered) exhaust is questionable for a small volume, high-use bath unless you have the run-time switch or humidity sensor (FYI: one of these control options and 80 CFM is required by Oregon code. I designed projects with the "chemical" filters (true fart fans) in baths for a national chain.
In 1980, Holladay bought his first photovoltaic(PV) Generation of electricity directly from sunlight.
Inline fans, also known as remote fans, have a fan unit located in a remote location such as the attic; ductwork connects the fan to an opening in the bathroom ceiling covered by a grill. So, if your bathroom measures 10 feet by 8 feet, for instance, you have 80 square feet and will want a fan rated for at least 80 CFM. In chemistry, vinyl refers to a carbon-and-hydrogen group (H2C=CH–) that attaches to another functional group, such as chlorine (vinyl chloride) or acetate (vinyl acetate).-faced fiberglass duct insulation reduces condensation. A photovoltaic cell has no moving parts; electrons are energized by sunlight and result in current flow.
Inline fans are often used when a homeowner wishes to use one fan to vent multiple bathrooms, or to have multiple vents in one large bathroom.
For bathrooms larger than 100 square feet (10-by-10) The Institute also suggests adding 50 CFM for each toilet, shower and bathtub; and adding 100 CFM for a whirlpool tub.
That’s why ceiling mold often occurs near exterior walls, where insulation tends to be thin.
Here’s the trick: these models automatically ramp up the fan in response to duct systems with a high static pressure. To reduce noise transmission and simplify installation, many installers use a short (generally 2 feet or less) length of flex duct between the fan and the rigid ductwork. Repairing insulation defects helps prevent mold: the insulation keeps the drywall warm, reducing opportunities for condensation or moisture absorption. At higher static pressure, these fans are more effective than less sophisticated fans, but they also use more power (in watts) to achieve the full airflow they provide. Add the environmental impacts for filter manufacturing and disposal and filtration is laughable as a green option for masking natural bodily functions. Americans aren't ready to accept the powder room is actually used for something other than powdering your nose; so I suspect that elimation of the fan requirement isn't going to happen.
I see ones where 5 feet of flex would suffice , however I see 12 or so feet of flex ducting coiled up like a mess. Now imagine sending very humid air very slowly through this duct work which is still well below the dew point temperature , it will condense wont it? So when exhaust fans are used the majority of the make up air enters the home through these intakes, the more frequently the fans are used the better the air quality and really just the general smell of the home tends to be.



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