Wood Stain Vs Gel,joseph brown woodworking cabinets langlois,Diy Window Bench Pinterest - Plans On 2016

17.07.2014, admin  
Category: Woodworking Plans Boxes

One of the biggest projects I set out to finish this summer was staining the kitchen cabinets (taking them from golden oak to a warm mocha brown).
I took on Test 3 after Mary pointed out in the comments of test 2 that the streakiness that I was still observing after 3 coats of the water-based stain by General Finishes was probably due to the consistency of the stain itself. Just like with test 2, I applied three coats of stain with an old sock over the course of 5 days. Shown again, the gel stain is on the left here, whereas the streaky wood stain is on the right of this photo.
One of the biggest concerns I had in tackling this project Monica’s way (light sanding, heavy stain application) was that the stain finish was going to look too opaque, too thick, gloppy, or instead of like stain, heavy like paint. For your modern style desk, a gel stain is of no greater value than a liquid stain, unless you seek an extremely dark shade. Gel stains are easier for casual users intent on getting a very dark finish, for which liquid stains are almost futile, and the traditional wood dyes are not so user-friendly to the inexperienced.
I used General Finishes Gel topcoat on my SO's computer desk a couple of years ago and it's still looking good.
HandyMacIf you sand the old finish off---and that is one of the worst ways to remove finish-----you will not get the old finish out of the oak grain---which means the new stain will not stain.
Gel stains work well for woods that blotch (pine, maple, cherry, poplar are common examples). Otherwise liquid stains, including dye only, pigment only, and combinations of both, need clean and raw wood to color and color evenly. If the black stains are indeed Sharpie, you could have removed them with denatured alcohol-dampened rag. LinelleAfter having watched some videos showing application and finished results of GF gel stain, I'm not sure I want that look at all.
As a result of the sanding, the top is now lighter in places, having removed most, if not all, of the original stain. For either to work as designed, the wood has to be bare, because the material has to be absorbed into the wood fibers to work---as designed.


I've been working with wood for several years and am still learning about coloring it and finishing it. Before I chuck the desk, I'm going to strip everything off and approach it with an oil stain.
It is an issue for anything except dark pigment stain that covers more or less like paint, obscuring any grain in the wood.
OK if that is the look you want, bad if you want something that actually looks like stained wood cabinets and not painted cabinets. I posted many pictures and details on a thread called 'general finishes gel stain update' I think.
My husband spent just a few minutes sanding the back of one of cabinet doors today and then applied Minwax Mahogany gel stain and wiped it off. The thick application of multiple coats of the gel stain does not impair or inhibit the way that texture shows through, and that really helps to keep this technique desirable.
My understanding of gel stain is that it's like a paint and sits on the surface of the wood, whereas a regular wood stain gets below the surface.
I just grabbed a sanding sponge and went at a bit of it and found myself at bare wood pretty quickly. All my past experience with wood (re)finishing has involved regular wood stain (for better and for worse), so maybe this is a good time to test out gel stain.
Even if the stain matches well going on, the top coat is going to shift the color some and years of exposure to light will likely make your match diverge over time. They seem to have penetrated way down into the wood, so I'm calling it a day with most of the ink removed.
If I sand the old finish off (which I have only done in the Sharpie zone) I won't get it out of the grain, therefore the new stain won't stain. I have yet to use a gel stain, more because I work with wood I buy from a sawyer instead of previously worked wood. As I wiped the second coat on, some of the first coat stayed put, while it pulled some of the rest right up, in very strange patterns, like drips.


He said that if we dont wipe it off, its just like paint and stain is not meant to be paint. The finished product is really smooth, the bevels in the wood appear to have taken the stain evenly (a problem I cited during my report of test 1), and up close, the cabinets look good.
However, I put a couple of coats on the unfinished thin backside and I like the color and it actually made the thin wood look better. So, gel stain can be applied over a previous finish(by following the gel stain manufacturers instructions). Its a great wood but everyone in this area has homes filled with oak and it is such a tired look in my mind. If we have to sand to bare wood we will but my DH doesnt think that will be necessary if we use a de-glosser.
I suppose with either liquid or gel stain, I'll still need to apply a poly coat on top for protection. The GF gel stain will likely work for you as long as 1) you get the surfaces clean and smooth, and 2) you are OK going very dark, e.g. Then trolling in a kitchen emporium showroom this last year I noticed dark wood slab doors, kind of like mine, but darker.
One caution though, is that you are more building up the coating like paint then like a true stain so you can get scratches in your finish.
Remember, I'm *not* planning to put on so much gel stain that everything beneath it is obscured. Yes, some will come off easy, but the problem is that you have to get ALL of it off to use stains designed for bare wood.
Jennifer-in-Clyde (in the same boat) and I stumbled around on that woodworking thread to get to this method.




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