Sanding Hardwood Floors Drum Sander,Build Wooden Excavator,Furniture Drawings Software,Plans Building Model Train Table - Downloads 2016

04.04.2014, admin  
Category: Woodworking Products

Now if you are a amateur and have never done a stained floor before, and you think you are going to simply rent a floor sanding machine and sand the floor yourself, please consider this. This way you can be sure that all the proper steps were taken to prepare your floor for the wood stain. A well sanded floor will be a breeze to stain and finish, and this article will save you from hiring the wrong contractor.
And speaking of the drum rubber, if it's too old or worn down, it may not have the cushioning effect that is needed to keep the drum riding smoothly.
I have for the last 5 years used anti-vibration pulley belts on my floor sander, instead of the standard ones that come with the machine. The last thing you need to do is to carefully apply the sandpaper to the drum or belt-sanding machine. Also be sure to blow out all the dust that may have collected inside your drum or belt system after each job. The drum sander is a bit trickier, if you cinch the sandpaper too tightly it will easily create a flat and chatter prone spot on the drum. If your machine is still leaving chatter marks, take it in to your local machine shop and have them balance the drum. On old floor I want to remove ALL the old finish, down to the clean white wood, no exceptions.
Oh, and I might add that when resanding those prefinished floors it might be best to use the zircon-alo sandpaper.
On the latest generation of prefinished wood flooring these should be quite shallow and you should be able to remove the beveled edges but not take too much wood off. If I have to sand a floor at an angle, I later straighten out the sanding lines with the same somewhat worn 36-grit sandpaper still on the machine. I will fill any gaps (not holes) at this point, and it would be best to use dark filler if the floor will be darkly stained. Continue sanding now with 60-grit sandpaper, and go SLOWLY with this paper, with medium tension on your drum.
If you want to start with 40-grit (good idea on cherry and maple) on new floors, that's fine. When sanding a room there will always be a long sanding run, and a shorter run to finish up the other side. After 36 and 60 the next-grit of sandpaper will be 80-grit, and then the last pass with the large drum machine will be done with burnished 80-grit. On the last two sandings with the finest-grit paper you will want to ease off the drum tension just a bit each time. When I drum sand up to the wall I very quickly and abruptly lift my drum, just before I reach the wall. But on a old floor I will have to use at least 36-grit disks to remove ALL the old finish at the edge, then very carefully finish up with the 80. The last edging is not done with an edger at all, but with a half sheet orbital vibrator sander. I still use no sandpaper finer than 80 -100-grit with this great machine, as I want to be very sure to remove all the edger's marks.
It is SO important to remove all these edger marks if you are intending to stain the floor with a pigmented type of stain. But when I do stair treads I can hand sand even the small vibrator sander marks out, again with a dulled 80 or 100-grit silicone carbide floor sanding paper. Once you are sure that you have removed all the edger marks, vacuum the floor again to get rid of any stray-grits.
Now, if you are simply going to clear finish (no stain) the floor, you could have skipped some of these steps. If you are sanding a floor with the intention of applying water based finish, you will have to use the more lengthy method I described in sanding for a stain.
And that fact that the water in the finish raises the grain on the first few coats, means starting out with a very smooth floor is essential.
Some parquet installers use a special flat aluminum-sanding disk on their buffer that removes these sanding lines a little quicker, but this is a rather specialized and expensive tool.
Whether the floor is parquet or strip now is the time to take a look at the floor surface in the afternoon light to see if there are any chatter marks in the floor. Let me just review one more time the drum sand-grits I always use on new or old floors in prep for a stain.
The Billboard Top 100 list was my closest companion during this hardwood floor restoration process so I’m going to give you the billboard chart of hardwood floor sanding and staining tips and tricks! On a sidenote, we just had our hardwood floors redone (due to a water main leak) and I have a recommendation from the pros: Do not put an area rug down for approximately 10 days after the last poly coat went down. I loved the tip by the professional to start with a finer grit sandpaper to get the feel for it. Hi Karah, I found your blog recently while researching information on floor sanding and staining.
September 4, 2013 53 Comments After taking the day off on Monday, reading every single one of your incredibly encouraging comments on my last post and on Facebook, and watching a few YouTube videos on how to sand hardwood floors, I felt rested, encouraged, and ready to tackle the floors again.  So yesterday morning, my brother went to the rental place and picked up the correct floor sander for me. The correct sander is called a drum sander.  This thing is amazing!  It was really hard work, but I thought it was quite fun to use.
Now you might notice that the edges of the floor aren’t sanded all the way around the rooms. While the new drum sander and I got along swimmingly, the edge sander and I didn’t get along so well. And each time the sanding disc rips off, it leaves unsightly black marks on the floor, so those areas have to be re-sanded.
1.  If possible, find a drum sander that does not have a lever for raising and lowering the sanding drum. Instead, the leverless sander that I used just required that I press down on the handles with slight pressure to raise the drum.  It was incredibly convenient, and allowed my hands to remain on the handles at all times. I finally learned that getting the varnish off of those stubborn areas was much easier if I walked the machine backwards over that area (rather than pushing it forward like a lawn mower), and lifting up on the handle with little to moderate pressure while walking the machine backwards.  That allowed the sandpaper to really cut into the board and get at the stubborn varnish.
You will learn how to prepare your drum sander so that it won't leave those dreadful chatter marks all over your living room floor. I do have another article on how to stain a floor, and another on how to apply polyurethane to a floor.
If this is so, have the drum rebuilt and rebalanced before you attempt any more custom stain jobs.
Use high drum tension but be careful not so high a tension that the machine starts to vibrate or stall. You have to accomplish two things with the coarse sandpaper, one is to level the prefinished floor for the first time. But on the last job I was on, I had to scrape the V grooves out by hand after the coarse sanding. But if the floor is more than 300 square feet I will change to a fresh sheet of 36-grit, and just dull it a little with a piece of fine sandpaper pressed to the drum as it is running on the machine.

After the coarse sanding, I then get on my hands and knees and take a good look at the sanding lines and make sure all the angled sanding lines and high spots are removed. Wood filler in any gaps will crack out eventually, and the floor will look better in the future if the filler is dark all the way through.
You might at this point consider using Aluminum Oxide (ALO) sandpaper for this-grit, as the ALO-grits are a bit more rounded (than silicone carbide), so the wood will be less grooved. If you find that wax is glazing even the 36-grit edger disks, you can switch up to 24 or simply clean off the wax with naphtha, before you start sanding the floor. Learn how to use a 10" mill bastard file to sharpen a wood scraper meant for wood floors. Then you should buff the whole floor with a floor maintenance machine with a 100-grit screen on it.
If your final drum sanding has revealed severe chatter marks and you spend hours with the buffer and sharp screens to take the chatters out, you may over screen the floor and cause a dished out grain effect.
And if you really think you know all about how to stain a floor you need NOT get my companion article on what stains to buy and how to use them. I couldn’t make it through staining grout on my floor without chiropractic intervention. The weight and density of the rug can suffocate the wood and deprive it of needed oxygen while curing and it can actually alter the coloring of the floor in that spot. I looked downward at my hardwood floors a few days ago and saw what I consideration was apparent tape stick up on the floor.
We have a few rooms of hardwood and our dining room in particular is now pretty much unfinished due party to direct sunlight from a large bay window. I may find at this point that the floor is just too thin or damaged to handle the extensive sanding process that a stained floor needs.
You will know exactly what to look for after a floor is sanded, (before you pay) so as to avoid even this contractor leaving machine marks. I can see this as the pink drum rubber is just a bit thicker on one side of the sandpaper I'm holding to the floor. On the newer belt machines there should be no flat spots on a good quality sanding belt, so just make sure that the paper travels evenly. You will find that a good quality cloth backed sandpaper cinches better on these drum sanders. I hope at least you have a drum that has the sandpaper slot cut on an fairly high angle to the drum. Almost anything out of balance on this fast spinning machine can build up a vibration, which is then transferred to the floor.
The installers of these varieties of floor rarely do any prep of the subfloor, so it will be really critical that these floors be sanded at a 30-degree angle to flatten out the entire floor surface.
The V groove was just too deep, and I would have removed far too much of the wood, if I had tried to sand them out. You can make higher-grit sandpaper with this burnishing method but be careful to do it evenly across the whole sheet spinning on the machine.
If not I will again pencil mark any defects and sand those spots again with the same 36-grit sandpaper. New floors should have few if any gaps, and an older floor to be stained should be in quite good shape also, so this would be a minor filling.
This avoids the possible creation of a overlap mark as you wrongly repeat the same sanding pattern. The-grits in this 80-grit paper can be dulled creating a 100-120 buffing paper, by simply touching a piece of fine paper to the spinning drum. You may find that too light a drum tension will start to make the drum skip across the floor or create chatter marks.
I will do all my edging only when I have completed the drum sanding, this avoids having any sanding-grit get under the drum sander.
Don't do the edges any finer than 80 at this point as finer paper will tend to burn the floor and the paper wears out too fast. And if you are a real perfectionist, you can sand these vibrator marks out by hand on your floor's edges also, but I rarely find this necessary.
You can see now, I have not sanded the floor too finely, but it will feel very smooth to touch, and will be really free of any coarse sanding lines. Again use a piece of fine sandpaper for this burnishing, and you will have easily (and cheaply) created a fine paper for polishing the floor.
I just saw this on a finished floor last weekend, and it was so bad that the flooring contractor, who made the mistake, was terminated from the contract, and lost about $4,000.
I’ve always steered clear of the drum sander (seen too many gouged out floors) and just poured more blood, sweat, tears, and time($$$$ and sandpaper!) into the square buff. I was sad right along with you when the first attempt at sanding the floors was a bust, I really felt your frustration.
When pulling around that heavy floor sander, you need to think about gouging or sanding your floor unevenly, I will teach you how to make a perfectly flat floor. And it does take months of training to use a floor sander without gouging your fine wood floor. But if you find that the drum is dramatically sanding to one side, adjust it so that it runs flat, or like I said, only very, very slightly to one side.
Cheap paper backed sandpaper can actually rip during cinching or create a bump of loose paper on the drum. And you will have to use the proper sandpaper shims in this slot, to aid in this instant cinching of fine sandpaper I just described. On new floors I want to remove all the over wood efficiently and quickly, so this coarse 36-grit paper does it's work quite well.
And these hard factory conversion finishes really impede the progress of the coarse sanding. Don't ever expect the medium-grit sandpaper (60-grit) to take out any of these defects, it simply doesn't have the power. On dense closed grain woods like cherry or maple you must remove all the coarse grain sanding lines. These slight marks across the whole width of the floor will show up only when you stain the floor, and by then it will be too late. Again, be sure to use a piece of fine sandpaper and touch it lightly but evenly across the whole drum as it is turning. The rest of the floor has been perfectly sanded with the drum sander, so I have no wide feathered edge that has to be corrected. Some really resinous woods like pine and a lot of exotic species will continually clog up the fine sandpaper on the edger and sometimes even on the big drum sander.
It's quite an art to sharpen these scrapers so they pull smooth ribbons of wood off the floor. By the time I have gone a dozen feet along the wall with the orbital vibrator, the sandpaper is quite a bit duller, and is making marks now almost imperceptible. Put the light just ahead where you are fine vibrator sanding, and after you think you are done, brush the floor edge with a horse hair hand brush, and look toward the light.

I do however think this final hand sanding is necessary on stair treads, as you will be viewing them closely as you ascend the staircase. When you sand a floor past 120-grit sandpaper and then stain it, the stain may not be able to penetrate the slick surface of the wood. In fact you will find the floor so smooth that the no final buffing of the wood will be needed. These marks will be at the minimum if you follow this advice : When you sand a parquet floor you need to change the sanding direction each time you change to a finer-grit sandpaper. If they are really obvious, you either haven't tuned your machine properly or there is a sympathetic vibration between the machine and the floor. After you have stained the floor be sure and purchase my article on how to apply the oil modified polyurethane finish, without those annoying bubbles and pits. I’m glad I learned this prior to dragging my huge area rugs onto our new gorgeously stained floors. I sanded 3 rooms of oak in my mothers house with an orbital sander until it died and then a palm sander. If he won't do all the details I mention, do the final vibrator and buffer sanding yourself (and this you CAN do, and they do rent good equipment for this).
Then I will take any sandpaper off the drum, and place a new sheet of 60-grit sandpaper on the floor below the drum.
When you have it running favoring one side this will always dictate the direction your floor machine will travel across the floor. I find that the better quality cloth backed sandpaper cinches better that the paper backed variety.
They will simply exchange the old worn or out of balance drums for a new reconditioned one.
I will pencil mark any uneven board ends, so that when I go over it again I can easily see if I have sanded these flush. Smoothly sanded floors wear better, because there are no high spots (sanding ridges) to wear off first.
This saves you from having to buy a roll of this very fine sandpaper, and in my opinion will do a better job of polishing the wood. I'm sure you won't find this in any floor sanding instructions, but I have used this method for 25 years, and I get better and quicker results that most floor mechanics. And I can go over this starting area once again with dulled sandpaper to smooth out any marks that may have occurred where I started.
It will be an alarming mistake when the stain and one coat of finish is on, by then you have to sand the whole floor over again. Any sanding marks will be so fine that a clear finish (any lacquer, OMP, but not water based) will flow out smoothly.
The original floor guy could have avoided this by using the flat aluminum disk with minimal padding on the buffer.
If you want to have a beautiful wood floor, you need to know how to sand extraordinarily well. Just remember in all the small claims court cases that I have served as an expert witness, it was assumed that the floor mechanic alone had the expertise to determine if a floor could be sanded with good results. I stand on both edges of the sandpaper to keep the paper tight to a level floor (or have a trusting assistant do this), turn on the sander and lower the drum slowly down to the floor. You will always want the feathered edge side of the drum to be the trailing edge of where you have already sanded.
I'll be doing a separate article on sandpaper types, as this is a complicated subject itself. You have to be certain that the fine edger paper is doing it's job, and removing all of the drum mark.
When you wipe these stains on a floor that is too smooth, most of the color will come out too. They thicken quickly on the bottom of the finish layer after they are applied and will not fill up the fine scratch lines in a poorly sanded floor. For instance if the sanding drum is tilted down slightly to the left (as viewed standing behind the machine), you will always sand the floor starting on the right side of the room and work you way row by row to the left. I commonly have to sand the newly laid hardwood floor at a 30-degree angle at first to help level the new wood. If you sand with say a 24-grit SiC paper you will have to do an extra sanding with 40 or 36-grit to take these deep 24-grit trenches out. Now if you have done a good job of tuning up your floor sander, you will see almost no chatter marks in the floor. Open coat sandpapers (that are only 50-70% covered in abrasive-grits) are better for these sorts of wood. If you do have some errant edger marks, remove them with well-sharpened scraper and then be sure to vibrate sand again on that spot. The final buffing of the floor should be done just before you are ready to stain, or else the grain might rise if the weather is humid at all. You could either try buffing the floor one more time, or you could sponge (as I described before) the whole floor with distilled water, allow it to dry over night and begin the buffing all over again.
You can see that the feathered (high) edge of the drum will sand the floor last in this case and will leave less of a drum mark.
Oh, and speaking of storage, keep all sandpaper at 60-80 F and about 45% relative humidity if you want consistent results from your rolls or belts.
And having an edger that sands at a slower speed helps prevent the heat that causes this paper glazing on woods like pine, teak and other tropical oily woods. Oh, and if you fail to remove ALL the old finish with the coarse 36-grit paper, the fine sanding of the edge won't go well. The buffer should be worked slowly back and forth against the grain of the floor and then using the same screen (by now quite dull) with the grain of the wood. Most pros charge quite a bit extra knowing that they will have to sand a lot finer for water based finishes. This last sanding is best done with burnished sandpaper, which makes very faint cross grain marks. Some floor mechanics take the extra step and hand buff the areas that the machine couldn't reach. If you don't see this before you stain the floor, this will create a defect in your stain, as it will be apparent that these boards didn't get sanded.
It would be a good idea if you have a really chattered floor to use a flat metal sanding disk on your buffer. I used paint stripper and then the palm sander so that I didn’t remove too much wood.

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