Reloading Bench Plans Pictures,Fence Ideas For Garden,Grizzly Woodworking Bench,Wood Cabinetry Fairfield Nj - Test Out

12.12.2013, admin  
Category: Yard Furniture Plans

Twenty years ago gunwriter Wiley Clapp published an article explaining how to make the ultimate loading bench. When I moved to an old farmhouse in the country a couple of years later, I bought (in this order) a pickup truck, the complete Skeeter Davis collection and the wherewithal to build Wiley’s shimmering vision of the perfect loading bench. Now, over the years any number of articles have attempted to show readers how they can have room for a proper loading bench anywhere from a palace to a pup tent.
Your bench must also be versatile, and therein lies a problem: Versatility and stability do not readily coexist.
When the time came to build my new bench (and avoid the mistakes of the first) I used the best oak plywood I could find for everything, for two reasons.
As you can imagine, this is one heavy, solid bench, and when it’s lag-bolted to the wall and the legs bolted to the floor, it is solid as a vault.
When no bench-mounted tool is needed, two insert blanks give you a perfectly smooth bench surface. On my first bench I used 6×6-inch cedar posts fastened with angle irons, which worked well enough. The first step is to buy a straight, eight-foot 2×4 for the bench support on the wall and bolt it on at the appropriate height. The Redding T-7 is bolted permanently to the bench; the Ultramag, used less frequently, is attached to an insert and can be moved onto the bench in an instant and put away just as quickly. It is possible to build the bench and then install it as a unit, which is how I did the first one.
Whichever way you choose to construct the bench, I suggest gluing and clamping one layer at a time.
Drawing on the experience of my first bench, where I glued the inserts together all at once and fitted them after the fact, I took considerable time to sand the dovetails in the bench to reduce friction wherever possible–on the flat, the undersides of the lips and along the edges where raw plywood rubbed raw plywood. With so many instruments, implements and paraphernalia, it is natural that a loading bench becomes cluttered. The only thing right off which would make it better, would be the addition of the under bench receiver tube set up I have installed on my bench.

I have seen photographs of nicely done benches which included inset tracking on the bench top for tool mounting. With that system, you can remove or exchange tools, but your always left with a bench top which is hard to use for some other uses, and a place for dirt, powder, primers, etc. The through bolts which mount my system under the bench were installed before the formica bench top was installed, leaving a flat and smooth bench for uses other then reloading, if so desired. I built my bench from these plans in 1977 and have been cranking out ammo and working on guns ever since. My rifles dwelt in one corner of my closet with a handful of Lee Loaders on a shelf, and my dining-room table (with the computer shoved to one side) was as close to a bench as I was going to get.
This is a bench to be installed with loving care and attention to detail in your primary abode where, with any luck, you will live happily ever after. When a press is attached to a bench with four heavy bolts, it does not easily move out of the way. Wiley Clapp designed his bench with a system of inserts that allows the user to move tools readily here and there, yet have them securely fastened when they are needed. Here the bench is seen with its component layers clearly visible, inserts in various stages of completion, the front facing partly applied. The inserts allow tools like this to be fastened firmly to the bench when needed but stored out of the way when not in use.
The first time around I coated the bench with varnish, but this did not really protect the soft plywood. The legs of this bench are Wiley’s original prescription of steel pipe threaded into flanges top and bottom. The steel pipe, however, is easier to level by screwing the flanges up or down and also gives you more room beneath the bench. The ChargeMaster and case-prep center (behind) normally live on the shelf above the bench, out of the way but instantly available. To combat this, I have installed two eight-foot shelves underneath the bench to hold the inserts with tools attached, as well as my mushrooming collection of loading dies.

As any devoted reader of Dean Grennell will attest, no loading bench is complete without a cat.
It is solid, heavy, affixed front and back to the floor and wall, and, if an earthquake strikes, if anything is left standing it will be your loading bench with you sheltered safely beneath. The ideal bench for a shotshell reloader does not resemble a bench for a competition handgunner.
If either the inserts or the bench itself employs particle board, you will encounter serial fitting problems. These are made from two layers of the same material as the bench itself (actually from the narrow plywood strips that remain after the layers are cut to size). There I have two eight-foot shelves to hold bench inserts and tools, dies and small drawer units. Held by just one through-bolt, the insert becomes immovable and the press works as if it were bolted permanently to the bench. Making the bench deeper only invites using it as a storage area–not a good idea since that might lead to mixing up powders or primers.
Particle board, which swells up at the forecast of drizzle, is a nightmare if you install your bench where there is any dampness. The back of the bench is fastened with lag bolts to an eight-foot 2×4, which, in turn, is firmly bolted to the wall.
The advantage of doing so is that you can position some long tools, like a power case trimmer, to a long board and fasten it to the bench at each end using the through-bolts.

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