# Plane Blades Sharpening,Cradle Woodworking Plans Free,Timber Carport Designs - For Begninners

Category: Woodworking Plans Boxes

The slight curve (camber) in the edge of the plane blade is visible as a light gap against the straightedge. The slight convexity or "camber" in the edge of a smoothing plane iron should allow the production of airy shavings that are thickest in the middle, say .001", and feather out to nothing at a little less than the width of the blade. A similarly small, or perhaps a bit more, camber in the edge of a jointer plane blade allows one to bring down the "high" side of an out-of-square edge without tilting and destabilizing the heavy plane. For jack planes, more camber lets this workhorse take thicker shavings without producing gutters. When grinding and honing a plane blade, I check the camber by setting the blade’s edge on a small aluminum straight edge and holding it up to the light to look for the tiny gaps that gradually enlarge from the center to the sides of the blade. Therefore, I sharpen more camber into a blade for a low angle bevel-up plane than for a bevel-down plane to achieve the same functional amount of camber.
There are undoubtedly other factors affecting shaving thickness, such as blade sharpness, blade edge deflection, and wood grain, so it is most important to monitor the performance of the plane and make adjustments when you resharpen. RobPorcaro writes: I do most of my sharpening freehand, so to produce a mild camber such as for a smoothing plane blade, I just lean a bit more on each side of the blade on the stone and work the pressure smoothly toward the middle. The math is tangential to the main points which are to use differing cambers according to the task of each plane and, to realize that bevel up and bevel down blades, all else equal, require different approaches to producing camber in the sharpening process. I think the point you want to make is that you have to have a greater camber on a bevel down plane than a bevel up plane for the same depth of cut.

The camber should be positioned at the center of the blade projection so the plane can be shifted toward the high side of the board’s edge to remove a slightly thicker shaving there. The more pronounced camber also makes it easier to direct the plane’s cut at the high spots on the surface of a board being dimensioned.
The camber that you observe sighting 90 degrees to the face of the blade will mostly disappear when you install the blade in a 12 degree-bed, bevel-up plane and sight down the sole to observe the camber.
After a lot of experimenting I've developed an easy and quick method of sharpening and cambering my smooth plane blades. The important thing is to observe the plane's performance and let that guide your perception as to what is "enough" camber next time at the sharpening station.
No problem: The center of the blade will take the most wear and you can hone away some of the hump to resharpen the blade and reduce the camber. I am comparing the camber you observe when you look at the edge 90° to the face of the blade ("c") with the camber that the wood "sees" - i.e. This post will discuss factors in the amount of camber in the edge of a plane iron with attention to an under-appreciated trigonometric quirk.
When this blade is installed on a 45° frog in a bevel-down plane, the actual functional convexity is reduced. However, since the middle of the blade is thus destined to dull first, it is easy to reduce the camber on the next honing.

I use sandpaper sharpening on a stone surface plate with the Veritas MK II honing guide and camber roller. I find no need for a special rig, though I suppose that could help for a blade with a pronounced curve such as a scrub plane. I'm going to send Rob an email to make sure he chimes in but I can tell that my method - also the method of our art director whose blades cut shavings fine enough to see through - is to simply apply more pressure on one side of the iron (in a honing jig), then switch pressure to the other side, then even pressure, repeat, etc.
Think of it this way: if the blade were laid flat and you viewed it toward the edge, there would appear to be no camber at all. A more direct approach during the sharpening process is to check the camber against a straightedge with the blade tilted at the bed angle.
I put pressure with one finger in the middle of the blade and make five strokes pulling toward myself but not pushing forward.