Log Cabin Foundation Plan,Wood Stain Dye,Plan Wooden Dollhouse,Wood Veneer Suppliers Atlanta - Tips For You

22.12.2013, admin  
Category: Yard Furniture Plans

Opinions about log selection and proper cutting season vary with the individual craftsman and the building locale. The best seasoning method is to air-dry the logs for one to two years-the longer the better. Many pioneer cabins were built without foundations because they were constructed in haste or meant to be temporary shelter. In a similar manner, hew or cut flat the top of the joists and install them between the girder and sill logs so they are flush with the top of the girder.
Many different types of notches can be used to join the logs, but a good choice for the beginning log builder is the technique shown here: the scribe, fit, round-notch method.
Although this method is slower than others, the corner joints are self-draining-water running down the outside of the house hits the log tops and runs off, instead of being trapped in the notch. As you move up the walls, alternate each successive log so that their smaller, tapered ends are not all on one end of the wall. Of course, if your cabin is larger than the one shown here, you'll have several interior partitions. The roof on the cabin shown is a combination of purlin and rafter construction to give an idea of what's involved with both. One story from the rich folklore of log building tells how a Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights insisted, around the year 1500, that a wood structure be built onto his stonecastle to provide a homier place to live. But when all these influences were transplanted to the New World, the Scandinavian style of round logs with bottom-cut corner notches prevailed.


In general, just about any type of log can be used, as long as it's relatively straight, is around 8 to 10 in. The cooler temperatures make for slower drying time, which reduces log checking, cracking and splitting. Logs should be stacked off the ground with stickers-smaller diameter logs-placed between the courses. First, roll the log into position and sight along its length to make sure any crown is pointing to the outside of the wall. Scribe the shape of the lower, log onto the uncut log using compass dividers with a pencil or marking crayon inserted in one leg. These can either be made with logs notched into the outside walls or with framed walls later on.
Many log structures built in the same period still stand in Scandinavia, Central Europe and the Balkans. Stone foundations traditional, but block and concrete walls are as good, or better, and they require less work.
Also, a V-shaped groove is cut down the length of each log bottom so the entire length can sit flush on the log below. The joints between courses do not need chinkirtg, so you can avoid one of the most chronic maintenance problems of log homes: repairing cracked chinking. Then scribe the full length of the underside of the log running the blank leg of the dividers along the top of the lower log.


This tool yields a concave groove that is tighter and more attractive at the exposed log ends.
This is called "thumping" and it will leave compression marks on the parts of the log that still need trimming.
Notching the logs is preferred because it yields the same interior finish on all walls and strengthens the structure.
The purlins are set into notches cut in the gable ends; the rafters are notched into the plate log and ridge log.
You should also partially peel off the bark using a draw knife before the logs are stacked. Make any necessary adjustments, then pack fiberglass insulation into the groove and roll the log into place. Then bore holes in the sill logs toaccommodate the anchor bolts and install sill sealer or a termite shield according to the local building code.



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