The 12-inch model was the only lathe in the 1933 Craftsman range to be offered with the option of an extra-long, twin-support toolrest . Mid 1950s Craftsman Ball-bearing spindle wood-turning lathe with the optional bed-extension piece in place. As the  1950s ended, Craftsman introduced this ball-bearing headstock, 12-inch wood-turning lathe. Craftsman, Companion & DunlapWood-turning Lathes 1933 - 1943By 1935, and with the dropping of the Herberts "Wood Wizard" range, the entire range of Craftsman wood-turning lathes had been changed. Craftsman 6-inch x 24-inch wood-turning lathe of 1935 - this inexpensive model remained in the lists until 1938. The Craftsman 9-inch lathe fitted for metal turning with a 16-speed countershaft unit, compound slide rest and 4-jaw chuck. A new Companion 8-inch x 34-inch was introduced for 1939 - gone was the bed with the deepened middle section but otherwise the specification, including the skeletal tailstock, and the price of $5.45, were little changed.
During the 1930s the largest of the Craftsman 12-inch wood lathes had been based on an Atlas metal lathe (reduced to its basic elements) but with its taper roller bearing headstock and other refinements it must have been considered both over-engineered - and over-priced at $45 - for its role as an amateur's wood-turning lathe.
In 1935 the first Craftsman wood-turning lathe with the option of a metal-turning kit was marketed. Wood-turning lathe headstock equipped with backgear to provide low speeds for large-diameter metal turning and screwcutting. Fixed steady (with, surprisingly, screw-feed fingers) and the screwcutting dial-thread indicator. The rest of the screwcutting conversion - twin-arm banjo to carry the changewheels, tumble-reverse mechanism and the left-hand leadscrew hanger bracket and leadscrew itself.
The full carriage assembly for the conversion to a metal lathe.A choice of two slide rests was offered - a simple cross slide and combined tool post, or a compound slide rest - illustrated below. Diy lathe mini lathe homemade lathe machine mini wood , Diy lathe mini lathe homemade lathe machine mini wood router drill mill cnc homemade wood mini lathe slide cnc axis part 3, : http.
I decided to use a screw chuck to turn the base so I took a 4" faceplate and marked around it on a piece of scrap maple. For the sake of consistency the dates referred to in these articles are the dates appearing on the front of the relevant catalog in which the machine appeared. Probably made by the Sypher Manufacturing Company of Toledo, Ohio, this was an interesting attempt to market a self-contained motorised wood lathe. Whilst the 8-inch saw bench and 4-inch planer appear to have been robustly constructed, the 6-inch swing 3-speed lathe was very lightly built with both the headstock and tailstock unbraced and clamped down by single bolts to the rails of a simple angle-steel bed.


The same cast-iron construction was used for the major components - the weight of the basic machine was 54 lbs - and the motor could be made to drive the spindle from either behind or below. The Universal could also be converted, by the addition of various parts, to a proper backgeared and screwcutting metal lathe, the makers claiming that: It grows with your shop!
This model retained the bed of the earlier 9-inch lathe but was fitted with an improved headstock (with a hinge-up guard over the 4-step V-pulley) and a much heavier tailstock that could be set over for taper turning - useful when the lathe was fitted with metal-turning attachments. With many similarities to the company's metal turning lathe (made by Atlas) this was a very different machine in comparison with the cheaper lathes in the range. Companion, Craftsman & Dunlap Wood-turning Lathes 1920s to 1960sCraftsman Metal lathesCraftsman catalogs were always issued at least six months in advance of their cover date.
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After hearing about faceplates made out of Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF), I decided to try making a few myself. The Craftsman and Companion labels were used not just for metal and wood-turning lathes, but a very wide range of power and hand tools. Note, however, that the drive was by V belt to an overhung pulley - the first time a V belt had been used on a Sears lathe - and quite possibly its first use ever on an amateur machine tool. The headstock, (unusually for a wood lathe of any age or type) was fitted with Timken taper-roller bearings. 2 Morse taper headstock spindle (properly threaded at both ends) running in sealed-for-life ball bearings, this was a usefully strong and workman-like machine. Instead of a central foot, the cross-braced bed was deepened in section over its central portion.
However, the spindle was bored hollow, took a number 1 Morse-taper centre and could be fitted with a faceplate on its left-hand end for large-capacity bowl turning.. The kit was very comprehensive and included a leadscrew, changewheels, tumble reverse assembly, a proper carriage, compound slide rest and complete backgear assembly - that, in conjunction with the 8-speed countershaft, gave the lathe 16 speeds  from a low of 28 to a high of 2540 rpm.
I found that it's not hard, but there are a few tricks which can help make the process go more smoothly. The quality of MDF is important.
From 2 slabs I had enough wood to get a couple of 7 inch bases and a couple of 2 x 2 uprights.
The lathe came complete with one drive centre, a rather small radially-slotted faceplate, an adjustable chisel rest and weighed - despite the flimsy tailstock - a respectable 60 lbs. The bed was made from cheap, angle-steel sections and carried the simplest-possible kind of tailstock and toolrest.


The headstock spindle, which was threaded at both ends, ran in the by-now-familiar and sealed-for-life SKF ball bearings - and featured a cast-in guard over the front of the headstock belt run. The only snag was that, by the time the complete kit was purchased and fitted, the price exceeded that of the contemporary metal-turning lathe by at least 50%.
The lathe could be driven from either behind or, with suitable slots cut in the bench, from below. Sypher's own electric-motor headstock lathe had a better toolrest, a proper tailstock with a screw-feed, self-eject barrel and, considering the mass of the machine, a more conservative swing of 7.75" - strangely however, the motor was less-well supported and the machine cost $12 more than the "Peerless". 1 Morse centres and tiny headstock spindle reduced the lathe's capacity for hard work and the too-short locking handles on the tool rest and tailstock were fiddly to operate.
Production of the lathe in an identical form continued until around 1959, when it was replaced by a new round-bed 12-inch swing model. However, these various departures from an ideal machine design are not as serious in a wood lathe as they are in a machine for metal-turning and the round-bed Craftsman was an entirely adequate machine for its intended hobby use in a home workshop. All models were fitted with a balanced 4-step cast-iron V-belt pulley with a ring of 60 indexing holes  The tailstock - modelled on metal-lathe practice - could be set over for taper turning and was fitted with a No. 2 Morse taper barrel locked by a proper clamp which brought together upper and lower clamping pads. At some point during 1936 the ball-bearing model changed over to sealed ball races - with an SKF cartridge type being the selected version - yet, oddly, the headstock-mounted oil cups were still retained, though they had no connection to the bearings.
While you are at it, you need to make two or three of the tapped portion since that is what takes the most setup time. 2. Glue two of the pieces together, and mark for the maximum circle and bandsaw approximate round. Place the block on the faceplate on the lathe and rough out the blank rim to a smooth circle. This drill will work but it will not give a full thread depth and the drill will hit the face plate at the end of the hole. Now mount the piece on the lathe making sure that the large end is towards the head stock and fits up tightly on the shaft. Next take a piece of round stock and glue to the blank that was just removed from the lathe.



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