Our standard finishes come in a variety of ranges: light cherry, medium cherry, dark cherry, light mahogany, medium mahogany, dark mahogany, light oak, medium oak, dark oak, light maple, ebony on maple, golden on maple, light walnut, medium walnut and dark walnut. Sun, rain, frost, humidity, snow, sleet… we get it all in Britain, and every year our weather breaks yet another record: the wettest, hottest, driest, coldest. As you can imagine all these temperature changes and different extremes can really knock the stuffing out of your decking, adding to the effects of everyday wear and tear.
When to clean wooden decking? It might seem obvious, but you need a spell of dry weather if you want to prepare your decking for a (hopefully!) glorious spring, summer and autumn of gardening pleasure, leisure and alfresco fun. Wooden decking is a wonderful feature, as practical and long-lasting as it is good-looking, but it can look very tatty if you leave it untreated and unloved.
You may find you need more frequent decking treatment at the bottom of your decking’s spindles, where the wood can become extra dry, black or grey as the water runs down, taking the finish with it.
Pre-treated decking is sometimes called ‘tanalised timber’, and you might also come across the term ‘tanalith’, the industrial name for a wood preservative. While clear wood preservers don’t contain pigments or dyes, the ingredients in them always influence the colour of the wood. If your decking is bare wood, with nothing on it at all, we highly recommend you use a wood preservative to lengthen its useful life and protect it against the elements. If your decking was originally finished but needs a makeover, it’s important to get the right product for the job. About decking oils – Decking oils penetrate into the wood and become a part of it, with only a small amount remaining on the surface. About decking sealers – Decking sealers bond to produce a film on the surface, a lot like a varnish or paint. Once you’ve determined which finish is currently on your wood decking, you’ll either need to  prepare the surface for re-finishing or remove it altogether. If you want to re-treat your decking with a sealer, you need to remove oil-based finishes with white spirit. If you want to re-treat a previously oiled decking with a fresh coat of oil, you don’t need to remove the lot first – just clean with a decking cleaner to remove any surface dirt, debris or other contaminates prior to re-oiling. As a general rule, if you like the look and colour of decking oil, cleaning decking is your first step… then just re-apply 2-3 coats of fresh oil… easy! Is the hard wood new or, more to the point, has it been cut down within the last few months? Some woods contain less oil than others and will allow 2 coats of oil, others remain oily for at least a year. The best way of knowing whether a wood is ready for oiling or not is to drop small amounts of water on the surface. If the water sits there for 30 minutes or so before it begins to sink in, it already contains a reasonable amount of oil and will welcome one more thin coat of oil. It’s worth bearing in mind that the colour of the wood before finishing will greatly influence the eventual colour. While you can find out when the wood is ready for oiling via the water drop test, it’s often easier to tell what’s what by its appearance.
Ronseal are one of the leading suppliers of decking finishes in the UK and even they have two decking products, both called a stain although they’re very different.  Their Ronseal Decking Stain falls into the sealer category, a paint-like material that doesn’t enhance the grain and will eventually peel and flake. How do you apply decking oils and treatments to protect and keep your wooden decking looking good for years to come? Note: This advice applies to decking that is either new wood, preserved new wood or wood that only has oil on it. Put grooved decking face down – it’s much less slippery that way, and requires less oil because the surface area is smaller. Black finishes on decking are becoming increasingly popular and provide a wonderfully dramatic contrast with the vivid green of plants and the bright colours of flowers. I have sanded the rails today but they still look dirty so I think if we just oil again it won’t make a lot of difference.
It sounds like the balustrades have taken the brunt of the weather and with the combination of wind, rain and sun, the oil has been stripped from the wood. In these situations, as long as the wood has been sanded back to bare wood, we would recommend scrubbing the wood with Osmo wood reviver gel, follow the instructions and this should return the wood back to or certainly nearer to its original colour.
Whichever approach you choose, always do a test area first and follow the product instructions on the tin.
Thank you for your inquiry, there are a couple of products that you can use to refresh your decking.
I hired someone to power wash my decking and railings as I recently moved into a house with a very neglected area.
Thank you for your inquiry, the best thing for removal of the existing Oil will be White Spirit and a bit of elbow grease. At the weekend I power washed the deck snd pleasantly most of the colour has come off, still some stubborn patches.
Thank you for your inquiry, its good that most of the product has come off with the power washer and for those stubborn areas you can use a product called Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover but also if you are sanding back some areas to improve the look then that could help with removal as well. This is a great help but I wonder if you can advise me on a product that I can use to remove old decking stain? There are two options here for removing the Decking stain, the first and slightly more laborious would be to sand the areas where the varnish remains.
It would be worth lightly scrubbing the water stained area with just a scourer and some warm water to see if it removes the stain, if not you will probably need to sand back the area to remove it.
A good going over with a Pressure washer may get rid of a lot of the treatment and then any left may come off with some White Spirit. What’s the best way possible to remove the Thompson’s sealer to somehow get the old look back?
We cleaned our ipe decking with a jet wash using a circular head but it now has dark circles all over the decking. I would anticipate that you will need to sand back the Decking in order to achieve a more uniform finish. We would recommend that you remove all previous product, especially if you don’t know what it is.
It is likely that the restorer has made a difference to the wood, it may not have brought the original colour back as well as you had hoped but it will have stripped any some of the dirt and oil in the wood and opened up the grain.
I cannot practically remove these black paint spots due to the large and awkward sitting areas.
Thank you for your inquiry, realistically the only way that you will be able to cover black patches is by using a black product to finish your deck in. If you are still unable to remove the patches then Cuprinol Anti Slip Decking Stain may be a good product for you to consider using, as it has black in its range, however it is recommended that all previous products be removed before using this as it would be with all products.
Any advice if the above products would be good for what I’m after would be much appreciated.
Not a daft question at all, it is fair to say that all Oils will darken the wood to some degree. I am confident that the Barrettine Decking Oil would give you the finish that you are looking for and will only slightly darken the wood. There is one alternative that you might want to look at and that is the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra Natural it is designed to leave the wood looking as Natural as possible and not darken at all.
Whichever product you choose, we always recommend a test area first to ensure that you do like the finish achieved. Thanks for replying to my question… it will need a second coat of oil… shall I remove the excess build up with the white spirit before I do a second coat?
My decking was pressured washed and then what I had left of my usual ordinary decking oil was applied to one area. Would it be possible for you to send me photos of the decking and details of what product you used and where you got it from and I may be able to help. We get a steady stream of customers asking us for advice about paint stripper use and how to remove varnish from wood. You can strip any kind of wood, even heavily-carved wood, as long as you use the right products and materials and follow the instructions meticulously, particularly if you want to strip something expensive, rare or precious.
There are three ways of removing paint from wood: sanding, a hot air gun and chemical paint strippers. An electric hot air gun removes paint in no time but can scorch the wood if you’re not careful. Chemical stripping is the best paint stripper for carved wood with hard-to-reach, intricate areas, but in reality you will probably use a combination mechanical and chemical methods for your project, especially if you have layer upon layer of old paint to take off. Chemical paint remover for wood delivers the best results, removes varnishes and paints faster than sanding and tends to be the least harsh. Caustic paint removers take off most finishes and are particularly good at getting rid of thick layers of paint and varnish.
Most paints manufactured before 1960 contain lead, so if you’re stripping something older than that it’s wise to check. Chemical paint stripping and varnish stripping products partially dissolve the paint or varnish. If there’s still some paint left, reapply the stripper and go through the process again until it’s all gone. We highly recommend Panther Paint and Varnish Remover, one of the best wood strippers on the market for day to day paint and varnish removal on flat surfaces. We also love Peelaway One and Peelaway Seven, both used to restore antiques and decorative items like carved fireplaces, coving and ceiling roses. Peelaway 1 is better suited to paint aged 30 years and older, the old-style metal and lead based types.
Here’s a link to an old blog post in which we give the Peelaway paint remover a rigorous trial.
I have a piece of furniture I would like to treat with a different finish but I think it has been waxed. If the furniture has been waxed and the existing wax is in good condition, you should be able to put a fresh coat of wax on top which will bring the piece of furniture back to life, perhaps something like Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish or Briwax Original. A good blog here, interesting points made on how to remove paint from wood, enjoyed reading this ! We have removed the carpet from a downstairs room in our Edwardian House to reveal the (mostly) original stained floorboards. Any paint stripper is going to take it back past the paint, i would recommend a manual approach using a filler knife, paint scraper or scotch pad to gently remove the paint from the surface of the wood. Takes about the same time or less than any chemicals and doesn’t damage the wood, with it requiring only a light sand in most cases if done carefully. I want to remove white paint from Skirtings and door facings what product should i use as i intend to stain and varnish after .
Thank you for your inquiry, there are two possible options for stripping, the first is the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover this is a quick working stripper that can remove up to 6 layers in about 5 minutes. An alternative would be the Peelaway 1 for any paints that are over 30 years old or Peelaway 7 for the more modern paints. I have stripped an old library chair It is badly cracked so I put on some Colron wood reviver. I am not familiar with the Colron product, but generally wood revivers have Oxalic Acid in them which should not leave a dark stain or mark, unless you have used with wire wool, but even then it shouldn’t mark. Thank you for your inquiry, sometimes using wire wool with a paint stripper can cause the wood to turn black.
What would you recommend for large plain skirting that has many layers of paint, I would think some of the paint dates back 50 years plus due to the age of the house.
Its a difficult situation to rectify, because any removal product that you use will have an effect on the Varnish. As it is possible that some of the paint is very old then it would be worth considering the Peelaway 1 Paint Remover a water based formula designed to remove up to 32 layers of older paints. Hi, we are doing up a 450 year old cottage with wooden beams which have unfortunately been painted black. There are a couple of products that you could try, that includes the Paint Panther which may need one or two applications dependent on how old and thick the paint is.
Hi we have everything wood stained in our house, I would like to revive it how can I do this.
Thank you for your inquiry, if it is a solid wood door then the extra sanding will do no harm, but you want to maintain a smooth and even finish so it might be worth trying a removal product on those stubborn areas. I just got myself a Victorian hall chair in an auction and I want to restore the wood finish. Oh dear, lilac and lime green does not sound like and attractive combination on your beams. If you do find that you need to use a stripper then there are two options the first is the Paint Panther this product is designed to make the paint bubble up so that you can scrap it off or there is the Peelaway 7 which is a paste like consistency and you leave on for a period of up to 48 hours and then peelaway the all the layers in one go. Once you are back to bare wood, if you want to Wax it then the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish is a good option for restoring character and dries in about 10 mins. We have two removal products that you could use for taking off the paint but I wouldn’t like to say if they will have an effect on the markings underneath, only a test area will show this. I was thinking of stripping off the paint and applying yachting varnish to revive the staircase as the hallway lacks light, can you advise?
We have a couple of good quality removers, the first being the Paint and Varnish Remover which is a gel that you leave on for around 5 minutes and it makes the paint bubble up making it easy to scrap off, this is probably more suitable if you need to be able to use the stairs.
We have a wide range of Varnishes that you can use on the stairs and I would recommend the Manns Extra Tough Floor varnish which is a durable and protective Varnish that will last really well. I need to paint my wooden gareage door, however the paint whioch was done about 6-8 years ago has bubled and in places and has now peeled away. The easiest way to remove it, if it is peeling, is to use a pressure washer, if you have one or a able to get hold of one then this could remove most of the paint. Apologies in the delay in getting back to you, I have asked our in house experts if the had any advise on this one.
Thank you for your inquiry, there are to products that we recommend for paint and varnish removal. Hi, just wondering if anyone can help… We just finished our sunroom, the ceiling was beautiful pine with lots of knots. Thank you for your inquiry, I’m not overly familiar with the Cetol product although I am aware it is Sikkens woodstain, so likely to be a surface sealer.


Once you do manage to remove all the product then the Osmo Polyx Oil is ideal for you oak door.
I live in a timber framed terrace built late 1500s which has a lovely curved beam in the bedroom wall. Thank you for your inquiry, it is important in your situation that you do some test areas first.
It could be worth you trying the Peelaway 1 or 7 This is a poultice that you leave on for up to 48 hours. I have a wooden-floored hall (modern pine – bout 1960s build) which used to have lino stuck to it. My apologies for the delay in getting back to you but I needed to speak to our flooring expert for advice on your inquiry. The paint however is a different matter, I would recommend the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover which is like a Gel that you leave on the Paint for around 5 minutes and it will then scrap away easily. We have a couple of products that you could use to strip the varnish off of the wood, which one you use will depend on how old the varnish is and how quick you would like to work. If you think that the varnish is over around 30 years old you may want to consider Peelaway 1 Paint Remover to use, however it is not suitable to use on woods such as Oak or Mahogany ( it has been know to stain these woods ).
The other alternative is the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover which is a gel like substance that you can leave on for around 5 mins and you will then be able to scrap off the varnish.
Once you have managed to remove all previous product you will probably need to sand the pew as well, to get a smooth even finish. Asbestos is always a difficult subject, as I’m sure you are aware, but I thought I would check with Barrettine to see if the Peelaway was a possibility for you. Rustic style kitchens often have a regional American Flair: Adirondack or Pacific Northwest, for example. Allow us to meet in the comfort of your own home to see discuss the possibilities of custom cabinetry with Copper Canyon Millworks; free of charge!
On the bright side there are some brilliant products out there for cleaning decking and preserving it, all specially designed to keep your deck looking its best and in tip-top condition. Thankfully even the ravages of the British weather can be overcome as long as you have the right products to hand. Some people love the mellow effect but if you prefer your wood to retain its lovely colour, you can reverse the process using oxalic acid.
Give it just a year and you’ll notice the effects of heavy foot traffic, spills and the elements, and see the surface deteriorating as the finish gets worn off a little at a time.
The single most effective way to keep your garden decking in good condition is to sweep it regularly, keeping it free of anything that makes it damp or brings dirt to the party such as a build up of leaves and moss. Most modern decking is treated with a wood preservative to protect against wood disease and insect attacks, but very few if any come fully finished, protected with an oil or decking stain. Because sealers sit on the surface the grain is slightly obscured, more like a semi translucent paint.
If you have grooved decking, like most people, sanding won’t remove the finish from the grooves. You can use a jet washer to clean decking finished with oils too, but you need to take care not to push the existing finish out of the wood and into surrounding plants, pond or soil. Some exotic woods like Ipe and Bangkarai (also called Bangkirai) are very oily and sealers don’t work at all well.
The idea is to get as much oil into the wood as possible, since hard woods are normally dense and oily. Teak, for example, is widely used for external decks because of its high oil content, making it very weather resistant. It’s often best in this case to do nothing to untreated teak decking for the first year, then apply just one coat of decking oil a year later. For example using a Cedar Red decking stain will give you three distinct colours depending on whether you apply it to new untreated pine, new treated pine or old untreated pine.
But they also make an Advanced Decking Stain that’s oil based and far superior.  In our opinion neither of these products should really be called a decking stain. Ronseal Decking Stain is best described as a coloured decking treatment while Ronseal Advanced Decking Stain, now discontinued, was best described as a coloured decking oil. In our experience it’s always a good choice when the product is made by a reputable company like Barrettine. The application techniques we’re going to talk about are relevant to oil-type decking finishes. There’s no need to discuss the sealer-type ones because we really don’t recommend them. Because the oil content gives the wood protection against water, UV rays and more, it’s best to do a thorough and comprehensive job. But all you do is leave oily deposits on the surface which take ages to dry, sometimes more than two days. Just move the oil around on the wood and apply a little bit of pressure until it has virtually all sunk into the grain. A well-applied coat of oil will comfortably dry in a day. Use a top quality oil like Barrettine Decking Stain, also known as The Complete Decking Treatment.  It contains resins and waxes, and we get excellent feedback about it.
Which means it’s easier to clean and finish. Apparently The UK is the only country where it’s the norm to expose the grooves – everyone else lays their garden decking smooth side up. We oiled it with Libaron and this year the decking is OK but the balustrades have resin coming out of them, they are looking dirty and considering others around us ( this is around a caravan) ours is looking very tatty. Once this has been done, you can treat the Balustrades with a UV resistant product such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra 420. As someone who helped a joiner friend set up a decking firm long before Titchmarsh etc., I can confirm that grooved is a UK aberration- Americans I spoke to were mystified by the use of grooved decking many years ago.
Over the last year it has gone a bit grey and green with moss (It’s in the shade mostly). The first thing to do is to sweep any dirt and debris from the Deck and then you can use a Decking cleaner such as Ronseal Decking Cleaner this will remove any moss, mould or algae from your deck and then to restore and revive the colour of the wood before treatment you could use the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel you may need to use a little elbow grease with this product. After the power wash I was told the best thing I could have done to restore the area was to have it oiled.
The original stain should have been removed completely before re applying a new treatment, even if the same product was used, the previous stain would make a fresh treatment patchy.
The general condition of the wood after 10 years of care is excellent save the fact that the oil treatment of two years ago wasn’t done correctly because it rained just after application and has now gone patchy. To avoid getting a patchy look when you re oil, your best option would be to remove all the previous oil so that you are back to bare wood again. Last year we painted our deck as there was a lot of green and black and my husband said IT was the only thing that could be done.
The first thing to consider is if there is any of that Black or Green remaining on the surface of the deck, this sounds like algea and mould issues that arise from damp or water penetration into the wood. The second would be to use Paint and Varnish Remover , you would need to take care of any plants or pond areas that are near to the deck when removing. With out knowing what the Oil is that is already on the decking it is difficult for me to comment on the reasons why you have got water marks, but it may be that you just need to add some more decking oil to give the protection levels a boost. I’m presuming the restorer, while making no difference to the initial appearance, has increased the absorption of oil by the wood. By opening the grain it would have made the wood more absorbent allowing the Oil in much more easily. How much will depend on the wood that you are applying it to, but also the amount of pigment in each product. I spoke to Ronseal technical services and she has advised me to break down the excess marks by pouring on white spirit to dissolve the excess oil and scrubbing with a broom… and use a smaller softer brush to get the marks left by the dripps in between the boards with white spirit!! It would be helpful for me to protect my deck, and maintains the deck beauty last longer by using these effective measures. Here’s some practical information about stripping paint from wood, designed to help you choose the right product.
Care needs to be taken when using chemical strippers as these present their own care and safety issues. They are usually very gentle on the wood and won’t damage it, which is why they’re used in the antique trade. They give off fewer fumes than solvent-based paint strippers, are cheaper and tend to work faster.
You can always test drive a few different products to see which best suits the job and matches your capabilities. You can buy paste and gel paint stripping products, handy because they’re so thick that they stick to vertical surfaces, perfect if the item you want to strip can’t be moved. But as a general rule your first step is to apply a thick layer of stripper with an old paintbrush you can throw away afterwards.
If you wanted to strip the old wax off and take the piece back to bare wood before re-waxing, use Manns Wax and Polish Remover.
With a bit of practise and sharp scrapers, it comes off right back to the wood in a few passes.
Is harder work though, but really satisfying and creates less harmful dust (sanding) and no difficult to clean mess.
Any layers of paint that are over 30 years old and potentially have the old lead based paint wood require the Peelaway 1, whereas the Peelaway 7 is suited to the more modern Paints and Varnishes.
The Peelaway is a poultice that you leave on for up to 48 hours and can make it easier to get in to intricate or detailed areas. I would suggest wiping down with White Spirits first and then if that doesn’t help then try sanding the area that has been affected.
A test area first will give you an idea of how thick and how long you will need to leave the poultice on for.
We have a sample pack which contains both Peelaway 7 which is a remover for some of the more modern paints and varnishes, or the Peelaway 1 which is a stronger formula for paints that are over abut 30 years old. What’s the best stripper for my builder to use to try strip the paint off so the original beam colour comes back or at least get them lighter than they are??
Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover is one option, or you could consider the Peelaway Sample Pack The Peelaway 1 is for older paints and varnishes but is not suitable for use on Oak wood as it can stain. We have been renting out our cottage in the countryside that has beautiful original features. Is there a good way to strip back just the emulsion; we were happy with the black finish or do we need to take it all off?
We have a couple of removal products that can be used to strip back the paint but I would be worried that the Black treatment that is underneath may be affected as well. You would need to do a test area with both of these product to get an idea firstly of how long you would need to leave them on for and secondly how effective the will be on the Emulsion and the Black treatment that is underneath.
Firstly you could do an Oil test, this can be done with a few drops of Olive oil or Vegetable oil out of the kitchen cupboard. The Paint and varnish Remover is a gel designed to make the paint bubble up so it can be scrapped off, I would try this one first as it is a 5 minute treatment. An alternative, or if you don’t have a pressure washer is to use a Paint and Varnish Remover this is a Gel that will make the paint bubble up to be scrapped off. The first and probably the quickest is the Paint Panther this is a gel that you apply for around 5-10 mins and then the gel and paint can be scrapped away. We have two very good ones that are worth considering the first is the Paint Panther this is a gel that you can leave on for around 5 minutes and then scrap off.
I am familiar with Nitromors and know it to work well with many products, however I can recommend a couple of alternatives to consider and would strongly recommend that a test area is done with which ever product you choose. It has been painted (many times I suspect!) – the current top layer looks like vinyl silk type emulsion.
I would advice Peelaway but the Peelaway 1 can stain Oak, which is potentually what your beams are made of, but is more suited to layers of paint that could be older than around 30 years. But if you can find Cuprinol products over there you could try Cuprinol Stain Stripper or just spend a bit of time sanding it back to bare wood. The Peelaway 1 is for paints that are older than 30 years and the Peelaway 7 is for more modern paints.
I’m bored at work so I decided to check out your website on my iphone during lunch break.
The age of the paint on the windows will determine which of these 2 products that you should use but there is a sample pack containing both should you wish to test it first. The lino had to be ripped up cos it tore and over the years the glue has obviously seeped into the bare wood. Peelaway 7 Paint Remover is a suitable for use on all woods with more modern paint or varnish on.
They gave me the answer I expected I’m afraid and that was that they could not recommend anything for use on Asbestos and its a subject that I am unable to advice you on either.
A hearth-style mantle hood, hand-carved turnings and furniture-like pieces bring a rustic country space to life. There’s a brilliant product from Osmo called Wood Reviver gel, which contains the acid and can help to restore faded wood back to its natural colour.
This is why it can be so difficult for manufacturers to confirm how long a wood finish will last – there are so many variables.
Look for a green or brown tinge and check whether the surface colour is darker than the rest.
An oil based decking product is advantageous because it’s easier to maintain and repair. Most people don’t know that a lacquer and a varnish are the same thing, and many of us confuse pigments with dyes. However a decking stain is rarely just a colouring liquid, it’s normally a colour with protective qualities. You should apply the oil thinly since a thick coat can’t penetrate easily and takes ages to dry. In the worst cases the oil won’t evaporate or sink into the wood because there’s so much oil it forms a skin on the surface of the wood, which could peel off.
I have a beautiful deck and it was kind of a hard work to clean it perfectly, so, I am really thankful about this post!
It sounds like the previous treatment was a varnish as this is the only product that is likely to peel and flake over time. I’d appreciate some advice on which oil remover I should use to bring everything back to a neutral state.


It could also be an opportunity for you to apply a fresh coat of preservative to the decking before re oiling.
I hated doing it as I prefer the natural wood colour, we chose an oak finish that looked orange brown and I hated it. Also as I’ve power washed it looks like the deck needs sanding to remove bits of wood that have splintered slightly. Presumably it will only get worse so in your view what would be the best course of action to maintain the original appearance of the product? When you have managed to get the wood striped back I would definitely recommend using a preservative first to protect against mould, mildew, rot and wood boring insects, Premier Wood Preservative is a great quality product. Generally speaking most Oil products will go on one another with out any problems but we always advice that you do a test area first to ensure firstly that you like the finish but also the differing products will not have any reaction.
Once you have it back to the bare wood I would recommend a Preservative first Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative it is a great product that offers a lot of protection. Once you are back to bare wood I would recommend using the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative and then a Decking Oil this one has limited UV protection which will allow your decking to fade back to the silver effect if you want. I would suggest that you treat the other side in the same way that you did the first and you should get a an equal result.
Even clear Oils will have a small amount of pigment in them, although you won’t see it when applied. You may have found a fabulous piece of old furniture smothered with nasty, brown, shiny varnish that’s begging for some TLC, or you might suspect there’s something really special under all those layers of ancient paint on your doors.
Whether you’re sanding by hand or with a machine, experts recommend you take it slow and easy until you get a feel for it. Bear in mind, also, that a hot air gun can only be used as a paint remover, not a varnish remover as varnishes tend to go very gooey, almost glue like, when heated. On the other hand caustic products usually contain a very strong alkaline which may react with chemicals in the wood resulting in staining or scorching of the wood.
It’s a remarkable product, highly effective and incredibly fast, removing as many as six layers in just five minutes. For some projects you might need to bring both into play, using Peelaway 7 on the newer layers and Peelaway 1 on the deeper layers.
We have a huge selection of amazing products designed to breathe new beauty into your wood, whether it’s a gorgeous old floor, a splendid piece of antique or vintage furniture, a pine door or rococo picture frame. Feel free to contact us at any time if you ever have any questions about the products we offer.
It is also worth noting that Peelaway 1 is not recommended for use on Oak or other hard woods as it has been known to stain these woods.
It is advisable to do a test area first as this will help you to determine firstly if this is the right product and also how long you need to leave it on for.
I am sorry I can not be more specific with my advise but I am not aware of the Colron product or how it does or does not work. If the black is just on the surface of the wood a light sand with a 120 grit sandpaper may get rid of it, if not I would not like to suggest anything else with out seeing some pictures of the effected area.
I can not guarantee that either of these will remover the primer but these are very good products for removal and its definitely worth trying them.
Doing a test area with the sample packs will give you a better indication of which one you would need to use, and how long you would need to leave the poultice on for. Both of these products are very good at removing stubborn areas of paint or varnish but you should do a test area first of which ever product you decide to try. Unfortunately at the end of the tenant’s lease we have returned to find the once stunning white bedrooms with black beams have had a bit of a makeover. Leave the drops on the wood for about an hour, if it unmoved after that time it is probable that you have a seal such as a Varnish on there.
And the Peelaway1 an 7 Sample Twin Pack allows you to do a test area with either of the Peelaway products.
Once you have removed all the paint you may want to give the stairs a light sand, but if the wood is in good condition just make sure it is clean and smooth and then you can apply your finishing coat. Once you have removed all the paint you can use the Ronseal Primer and Undercoat this has to be applied first to ensure the 10 year guarantee. However what is left has stained the flooring and some parts quite deep although the floor was varnished and finished professionally. I would like to uncover the wood but not sure what is best to try – do I go for something like Peelaway? We do a sample pack which contains both Peelaway 1 and 7 for you to try first to give you an idea of how effective it will be for your project.
I appreciate it can be a hassle to sand decking but when you have done it, you can apply an Oil based treatment that will be easier to maintain and look after from then on. I am currently getting the walls in my flat repainted and I have large old Victorian sash windows which my decorator says are covered in quite a few layers of paint. I then spilt gloss from painting doors on to the wood which got stuck in wheelchair wheels and spread around hall in my panic to get to the bathroom. I have read that it is best to use paint stripper to remove the old paint (avoid sanding or anything that could cause dust).
Here’s how to look after yours in the most effective way, for long-lasting life and beauty.
Then there are variations across a deck, where more direct sun in one area fades the wood more than in a sheltered area.
Because oils deliver a seamless repair, they’re often a much better bet under these circumstances than finishes that seal the surface with a coating, much like a varnish.
Unluckily manufacturers don’t always use the same terminology, which means this’ll be helpful…! You can do it with a brush on textured decks, or with a long handled microfibre roller on smooth decks.
As both of these products are oils, they will not crack, peel or flake and maintenance will be a case of just applying a fresh coat of oil every year or two.
Like flat concrete, flat decking should get a quick wash maybe 3 times a year (grooved needs more because the grooves cast tiny shadows that encourage moss).
I agreed as the guy seemed to know what he was talking about, but the result is awful – patchy light orange areas where the staining has been removed and dark areas where the stain remains.
Ideally you need to remove all of the product that is on your decking back to bare wood so that you are able to get an even base to treat. Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative comes in a clear or coloured finish and will protect against most wood related issues.
Once this has been done and you have some dry days, a preservative would be the first product that you would need to apply. And then a top coat treatment Oil such as Barrettine Decking to finish your deck will give the best protection and will be easy to maintain. I would recommend Barrettine Decking Oil which has UV protection and will enhance the natural look of the wood. Hope you are able to get it back to what you want and if you have anymore questions please let us know.
So we decided we’d just go straight to oiling the other half using Ronseal decking oil. Once the deck is clean and dry you can use a Preservative to protect from Rot, Mould and Mildew preventing it from returning and then finish with a Decking Oil such as Barrettine Decking Oil. The Ronseal Natural I believe has slightly more than some of the others but it is difficult for me to determine which of the other Decking Oils would have the least in them. Whatever you want to do, you’ll need to get all that rubbish off the surface to reveal the stunning wood beneath. There’s plenty of good advice online about sanding wood to perfection, and some excellent guidance here on the Period Property website.
On the downside, you tend to use more of it so it can end up more expensive than a caustic stripper. This is more common with dense woods such as mahogony and some types of oak, especially old oak. This will probably be the easiest stripper for you to use but there is also the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover which works by applying it on to the painted area and within 5 – 10 mins the paint should start to bubble up so that you can scrap it off. There is a Sample size pack containing both products that will enable you to do some test areas. I hope you manage to get the finish that you want and we would love to see some photos – Many Thanks Sam.
The rooms have been transformed with a very haphazard application of lilac and lime green emulsion – beams included! The idea of this is that it will soften the Emulsion allowing you to carefully scrap it off, I can’t guarantee that this will work because it is a little dependent on the type of Emulsion.
If it soaks in even just a little then it may be a Wax or Oil on the chair which can be removed with some White Spirit and then given a light sand in preperation for a new treatment.
I would re iterate that a small test area with these products to see if the do have an effect on the markings underneath. And then your garage door will be ready for the Ronseal 10 Year Exterior Paint to be applied.
An alternative product that can be easier to use on areas that have intricate detail or if you have more time is the Peelaway 1 or 2 this is a poultice that you leave on for 24- 48 hour ( depending on test area indications ) and then peelaway the blanket and remove all layers of Paint. Both are viable options for you it just depends on which method you prefer, its worth having a look at the products and seeing how they work and always do a test area. You won’t need to use a scrapper with the Peelaway as it is a Poultice that you leave on for an allocated time ( which can be established from the test ) with a blanket over the top, and then when ready you peel the blanket away and remove the paint at the same time. I am hoping to strip them back and paint them myself as I am told it is more time consuming than difficult and my decorator charges a lot per window so would like to keep costs down.
Our expert has said that the only truly effective way to remove it is with some elbow grease and a scraper.
If the decking is grooved you can attach a floor brush head to a wooden handle and use it to force the oil into the grooves. You may be able to do this again with a pressure washer, but a Varnish remover may be required, Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover is suitable for external use. This will protect against Mould, Mildew, dry rot, wet rot and wood boring insects and Premier Wood Preservative is the best one to use. Its worth noting that the oil will darken the wood slightly on application and the best way to get an idea of this is to wipe a damp cloth across the bare wood. To make the job a bit easier for you I would recommend that you use the Manns Decking Applicator and Extendable Handle to make the job easier. Thankfully contemporary stripping products are relatively simple, effective and safe to use. Solvents can also cause burns, smell awful and must only be used in a very well-ventilated space. I am mostly just waxing the visible boards with Briwax (it’s a small room which does not have heavy traffic). A small test area with the Peelaweay 7 first will give you an idea of whether it will completely remove any product from your furniture and how long you will need to leave the poultice on for.
If this still doesn’t work then a light sand with a fine grit sandpaper may work but you are getting closer to risking removing some of the Varnish. If you don’t want to risk using either of these products then your best bet may be to carefully sand back the effected areas as this will give you more control over how much you can take off. We would love to see some photos of the before and after of your garage door if you have time to send us some!! Unfortunately paint stripping can be a messy process which ever product you use, and on rare occasions you may need to do 2 applications.
It is a very rough old beam so lots of paint in the cracks and I would be worried about using a scraper I think?
The only wood that you can use it on is Oak or mahogany as it may stain these, if you have this wood then an alternative product would be the Paint Panther this is a quicker but slightly more messy option. This means you have to remove the flaky stuff before you can re-coat your deck with something similar, which you must. When I said I wasn’t happy with the patchy effect I was told in time the stain will flake off and next year I can have it oiled again and it will look better. Once all the old treatment is removed and you are back to bare wood, I would recommend a Decking Oil of which we have a few on our website. As a top coat product I would recommend a Decking Oil which will water proof and protect the decking from the Suns UV rays, we have a large selection of, Decking Oils all in a similar price range so it would be worth having a look at a few and seeing if there is a particular colour or finish that you want. I need to remove the cleaner from deck as the WaterSealer has darkened the original light grey tone of the deck so much so my wife hates it ….
Much better than the bad old days when your only choice was pure caustic soda, nasty stuff! Last of all, you might have to work a bit harder to remove heavy paint build-ups than with a caustic paint stripper.
There are blobs of paint round the edges of the floor and a few spots here and there on the rest of the floor, mostly old white paint from when the room has been decorated over the years, which I want to remove in a way that causes the minimum amount of damage and need for subsequent staining. Any damage that occurs on the Varnish can be repaired and we have a useful Blog on how to deal with this. A Decking Oil will not peel and flake over time but can simply be cleaned and re oiled when required.
Once the 2 coats of Oil is applied your deck will look almost as good as new and if you do regular maintenance and re oil the deck every couple of years then you will not need to remove or re preserve for up to 10 years. Will taking all the layers of paint off only to repainted it again make a visible difference?
I am nervous of doing this as flat is quite enclosed, its quite a large area and am semi abled, but cant afford to get professionals in, or new flooring.! Before it was dirty but I could live with the colour, now it looks like it’s half finished and in need of a lick of paint.



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