I’ll be posting some more detailed information on the lathe as I get into it but I suggest you stop in at the CME Handworks eBay store and check them out. Hello Tom, I was looking through the cme web page and was interested in the stair saw Chris & Mary had made and was wondering how much they charged for it? I just had a quick look at the CME Ebay store and didn’t see the stair saw- maybe they’re back-ordered or perhaps they only make to order these days?
I could never afford to ship one of your lathes to Australia, but I would pay for a pdf, or a print plan. As is, I could probably build a similar machine from the info and pictures you have supplied, and visit the local metal engineering works to get the metal components, but I’d rather buy from the people who created the design. I studied the images on your e-Bay offering, to understand more how it worked, (I’d just made a pump drill and was curious how I might make it go in just one direction. You already share more than enough information to enable someone with a few skills to copy your design (and for someone with more skill and experience to know that $675 is a bargain).
I find it easy to spend $5-10 for something I’m curious to know more about, and to support the people who did it. Members of 1% for the Planet contribute 1% of annual sales directly to nonprofit environmental organizations. The 2″ wide belt would fit very snugly over that, cupping to match the shape, wouldn’t it? If you build the frame wider than about 18-19 inches between centers, you will also need to build a wider treadle (unless you have very long legs). There are several types of bearings you can use for the flywheel, but you definitely do not want it resting directly on the axle; the metal-on-wood contact will eventually wear a larger and larger hole and throw the wheel off center. In most flywheel lathes of later periods, the foot treadle connects to a crank which in turn powers the flywheel's drive shaft. Even without a lathe to turn it on, you can rough out a drive pulley with a mortising chisel and bench plane. For new bearings, I decided to go with face bearings instead of the sleeve bearings I used before. The original treadle was only about 4 inches wide, and used a single hinge to connect it to the treadle strut.
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Use the form below to delete this Documentary Barns Treadle Lathe Jig Saw Table Grinder Shaper image from our index. Use the form below to delete this Plain Turning Gap Bed Lathe Originally Flywheel And Treadle image from our index. Use the form below to delete this Chapter XLII Sheet And Plate Metal Working Machines Tools image from our index. This book also goes well with the plans for the Wooden Treadle Lathe available at the Full Chisel Store.  Get the book from Gary and the plans from me and you are all set. Instead of using a narrow cord or rope, I decided to model my drive after the traction engines, with a wide leather belt.
I made it long enough to be a snug, but not particularly taut, fit over the flywheel and temporary spindle pulley. Roger and I met quite awhile back over on the Sawmill Creek forums talking about, what else, old tools. By the way, for the spalted maple fans, be aware that there’s such a thing as spalted steel.
Three lightweight parts comprise the moving components, the treadle itself, a Pittman link, and a spacer bar that keeps the treadle parallel to the center line of the lathe. A couple of posts back, I mentioned that the flywheel was cut round using a jig on the band saw. It’s easy for him to ship via UPS (they even offer free shipping to 48 continental United States) and for the customer to re-assemble it is a breeze.

If you’re like me and have dreamed of owning a foot powered lathe than this may be just the thing for you.
If you sold a printed plan with a few metal components, I’d even be able to afford that!
The 1% for the Planet network brings together like-minded leaders who share a belief that business can be a vital catayst for positive environmental change. Initially patterned on da Vinci's sketch, it also resembles the lathes used by pewterers in the 18th century. You can either cut this by hand with a carving gouge, or wait until the wheel is mounted to the treadle and cut it with a turning gouge or bowl scraper. I built mine from pine, fir, and hemlock, which is cheap (thus allowing for failed experiments), easy to work, and makes it very light for transport, but your finished lathe will be sturdier, more precise, and vibrate less if you use good quality, heavier, dimensionally stable stock. The axle remains stationary (with the flywheel turning around it), so the axle can be mounted directly to the frame without bearings.
To simplify construction, Underhill's design connects the treadle arm directly to the face of the flywheel. I did not bother with bearings in these attachment points, but you could for a more durable attachment.
The flywheel will work fine even with a bit of wobble, but the drive head axle must be in perfect alignment with the centers or the piece being turned will wobble. This gives a larger spur with more bite, but if you're not accustomed to working steel it can be more challenging. It has served well, but it's gotten to the point where some poor materials and design decisions now have to be corrected to keep it in working order.
The original design is still sound, but my execution was a little sloppy, and the poppets tend to move around a bit, causing the bearings to occasionally bind up. The important aspects are that they fit snugly between the bed rails, and sit perpendicular to them. This greatly cuts down on the friction and is a bit more tolerant of any minor misalignment between them. I found a wider treadle gave me more flexibility while working, and allowed me to secure it with two hinges, making it more rigid. I have a pretty rudimentary lathe that I’m getting ready to fire up again, to try turning a bowl from green wood. The bronze spindle bearings are in good shape and the lathe runs smoothly and with very little effort. I already have a huge bench, so did not include the bench details from Shepherd’s plan. Having neither a jawed chuck to hold a turned piece, nor a way to feed a drill bit along the center line, I improvised.
Then, came the bit of the old fogie learning to hop about on one leg whilst pumping the treadle with the other and trying to learn how to manage turning tools while bouncing, swaying, and fighting off vertigo. Mostly because even though it was round while between centers, it is not perfectly round when mounted on the spindle.
More recently, I watched a 1913 Case engine drive a threshing machine at the Dakota County (Minnesota) fair late this summer. My intent was to eliminate the need for a fussy tension idler and to keep tautness to something less than a gnat’s ass stretched over a rain barrel.
Not long after I published the last entry, Roger advised that the walnut crank probably wouldn’t last long. It was the treadle lathe that really caught my eye and was the item I was searching for that brought me to their web page in the first place.
The lathe was shipped in two separate boxes and included a set of detailed, easy to follow instructions and as mentioned was a walk in the park to re-assemble. My design was driven by some requirements that probably didn't bother Leonardo when he made his original sketch: I wanted a lathe that was portable (which flywheel lathes traditionally are not) and used a minimum of modern fasteners.
The exact size is not critical, but in general a larger flywheel will provide faster turning speeds and more inertia. If you use a bandsaw and jig to cut the wheel, make the hole for the center as small as possible so you have an accurate reference (it's hard to enlarge holes accurately). This allows the axle to remain fixed, with the flywheel turning freely about it, and eliminates the need to fabricate a crank for the axle.
Attached to the bottom end of the treadle is a wood block that receives the lower attachment pin. For setting the axle bearings, even an old-tools purist may want to consider a drill press to get the holes aligned and true. However you form the spur, make sure it is aligned with the long axis so whatever you mount to it will turn around a single point. A smaller pulley will provide faster turning speeds, but a larger one will be less likely to slip (because more of the drive belt is in contact with the pulley). Attached to each face of the flywheel, these plates make very serviceable bearings, with much lower friction than the sleeve bearings.

The plates come with a shiny japanned finish, so I put on a coat of flat black paint to give them a more suitable look. The rest is upgrades to modern bearings and other simplifications because the local blacksmith left long ago.
Dovetail this, dovetail that, fast dovetails, no-measure dovetails, 7 degree dovetails, 11 degree dovetails. The turning block comes from a section of laminated material identical to the lathe feet, essentially a pair of 2x4s, about 7 inches long. My wife stopped by to watch and snicker for a few minutes, and fortunately got bored and left. I decided to use the same simple mounting, a screw through the wheel into a hole in the spindle.
As careful as I was in the improvising, the spindle hole did not get perfectly mounted between centers.
When these engines drive threshing machines or saw mills, power transfer is by use of a very wide and tremendously long fabric belts. In doing my research, I saw a lot of lathes where the builder used extra idlers to add tension, usually to cords or ropes. It wanted some truing, not a lot but enough to make me wonder about how well a belt would track. I’ve always kept my eye out for a foot powered lathe and finding a decent antique lathe is like finding a needle in a hay-stack. Simple lap joints and wooden bolts provide a somewhat less rigid frame, but it is lightweight and easily knocks down flat for storage or transportation. Boring the holes for the axle is the difficult part, as you want the axle to be level to the ground and perpendicular to the frame.
This is an easy way to do it, but with a small spur you'll be limited in the size of the stock you can turn.
The pulley must be rigidly attached to the axle because the pulley must drive the axle, not simply turn on it. My original design used bronze sleeve bearings, which work very well but present a problem when used with a wooden wheel. 5 has three pedals and the seat can be slid to either side to allow the operator to work directly in front of his work. The wheel ends up a bit smaller than the earlier part, requiring the belt to be shortened a bit and restitched.
Roger is a fellow woodworking enthusiast who also has day-job metal working skills and the equipment for prototyping aerospace instrumentation. Not having a readily available treadling apprentice, I parked a chair beside the upturned saw benches, sat down, and treadled while leaning over and holding the chisel. The race that absorbs the pressure has a center hole too small for the spindle to pass through.
This will not only give you a good thickness, but will also give dimensional stability (it will tend to remain flat). A boring jig of some kind is a good idea; it's very difficult to bore a true hole by eye alone. One method is to set stop collars into the ends of the pulley, allowing you to remove and adjust it easily. If the bearings bind up at all, the flywheel will turn around the bearings, instead of the bearings turning on the axle. Cutting a circle out of something this thick isn't easy, especially when using hand tools, but it is still considerably easier than the alternative, which is to build a spoked flywheel. My attempts to set the bearings were only temporarily successful, and eventually the wood around the bearings became compressed and the bearings loosened.
Go take a close look at real 18th century furniture and the quality of dovetails in that stuff.
It seems to me that the effort that goes into operating a heavy treadle has the same dampening effect as excessive unsprung weight in cars.
The pre-machine era dovetails were a far distance from the holy grail woodworkers pursue today.
I can appreciate how a heavy flywheel adds momentum, but not if it has to drag along the dead weight of a heavy treadle. Finding the center of a not-so-round pressure treated ball, and then drilling dead on the center was a near impossibility, and I lived up to that expectation. Thinking these parts might need lots of wiggle room, I tried a much loser version and ended up with a lot of clunking. The plan shows a hole in the far end of the horizontal piece, which is intended to hold a bolt upon which a face rest can be built.

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    The corners as finest you possibly can, before utilizing a file and/or detailed fashions that showed.


  2. lovely

    These initiatives are sponsored by Minwax there plenty of expensive mistakes and.