You’d be hard pressed to go out and purchase ALL seven of the machining functions offered by the Mark VII!
I would consider myself a subject matter expert when it comes to this fine woodworking system!
As a knife-maker who works in a small basement shop, a small tool footprint is not just a nice bonus, but is in fact vital.
This will give me flexibility I lacked before, will greatly speed up some parts of my process, and will let me try my hand at wood turning, which is something I was interested in trying.
I know it’s priced out of my range, but I met a guy with one that makes musical instruments and he swears by it. For me they work well enough so that I have gotten rid of my bandsaw, table saw and router table. I have had zero downtime but added a second machine as a back up thinking that on a 30 plus years old machine something might fail…. Alignment once done stays that way, it has been almost 3 years since I did my last one and while I check it often it doesn’t require redoing very often (I only did that one because of the major upgrade I did.) I love my shopsmith!
HOT- Great customer support and focus on training, plus access to loads of other Shopsmith users who are great about offering advice and support. Home Shop Machinist recently had a multi part series about modding the Shopsmith for metalwork and tool sharpening – well worth a gander. HOT, I purchased mine in 1978 new as a 500, today I have upgraded it to a 520 with rip scale (state of the art by any measure). How many standalone tools can make the claim they have been available for 50+ years and still has parts available and can be upgraded to the latest features. It’s hot, I have a small area for a shop and could not fit separate tools in it that would allow me to make what I can on the Shopsmith.
If you buy Shopsmith you will have a quality machine that is built to last through several generations. I would not have the capability that I have today if I would have had to buy separate tools because of both space and cost. Oh, and most guys that complain about the change-over time have never even touched a Shopsmith. Like I said early on, this thread really interests me, I even just recently sent for and received the DVD from the shopsmith site.
I have a table saw, a drill press, a horizontal boring machine, a disk sander, a belt sander, a lathe, a router, a shaper, a jointer, a band saw, a jigsaw. The only thing I can add is that my machine was made in 1954 and still gets used almost daily.
Fine Woodworking did an article a couple of years ago about how novices could deliberately build a collection of tools (both power and hand) in steps as their skills grow. About 6 months ago I was foraging at one of my regular scrapyards when one came through the gates as salvage from a defunct boatmaker on the north shore. As a long-time user (Dad brought one home in 1957 and there has been one in my life ever since) I can say the Shopsmith has made it possible for me to build furniture, canoes, sheds, toys and more in shops that have never been larger than a single car garage and most were much smaller. People who have heard of but never actually used the machine tend to believe that there are three problems with the Shopsmith, namely: the tilting saw table, the trouble of changing modes and the price.
Unless a user is setting up a production shop with dedicated machines, the Shopsmith definitely holds its own against the stand-alone machines. Complete the short Request Form at right and we'll send you a FREE Fact Kit which includes a half-hour TV Show, "Sawdust Therapy" that is fun and entertaining to watch.
Here's an easy-to-build, “bracket-style” mantel clock that's sure to fit in with virtually any room decor! 1: Use your table saw, jointer and belt sander to cut, joint and sand all pieces to their final dimensions, as shown in the List of Materials.
2: Since all of the pieces of molding used in this project are relatively small in size, we believe the Router Table provides the safest way to handle cutting the required molding profiles.
If you're working with hardwoods, an electronic router motor speed control will help you slow down the bit sufficiently to avoid burning the workpiece. Good dust collection is especially important when using Router Tables, as any routing operation will throw dust and debris far and wide if you fail to take measures to collect it at its source. Whenever possible, use safety devices such as featherboards and push blocks or push sticks to keep your hands out of harm's way. REMINDER: For the smoothest results, it's usually best to complete routed profiles in multiple passes instead of trying to make your cuts in a single pass.
NOTE: The back is different than the front because it must be hinged to provide access to the clock movement.
13: Sand the assembled case thoroughly, vacuum the sawdust away, wipe with a tack cloth and apply the finish of your choice. A dovetail is one of the strongest joints in woodworking because it will resist a pulling strain in every direction but the one from which the tenons are inserted into the slots.

To cut dovetail tenons as shown in Figure 10-11, position the worktable parallel to the way tubes.
The mating cuts are formed with the worktable in the horizontal position and with the fence used as a guide (Figure 10-12). The tenon on a single, wide dovetail is formed by making two cuts, one on each end of the stock. Cut the slot in one pass by placing the table as shown and adjusting it so the cut is made directly down the centerline of the board (Figure 10-13). Wide stock that must be grooved across the grain requires a sliding table arrangement to which the work can be clamped (Figure 10-15). With this arrangement the length of cut is limited to the distance from the cutter to the tubes. For the same money you can buy good quality stand-alone versions of all the incorporated tools. Yea, that’s crazy – go buy all free standing tools after you build a free standing work shop! I have enough room for my table with the self-built forge and 2×72 grinder, and about one more big tool.
I got mine, in fact, for a trade for a custom chef’s knife I made, which would have sold for between $150-$200.
It is built like a tank and Shopsmith has provided upgrades to the existing machine over all these years. What people forget is that you really need a space about 8 feet by 8 feet around EACH of your power tools to use them effectively. It teaches tool savvy, good work habits, problem solving, and the type of creativity you can only excercise when your central tool is a giant jig that you can configure in a hundred different ways. While they are very versatile i think i lot of people have bought these with the best of intentions but never got around to using them. I teach my students to use a dial indicator to set the fence when greater accuracy is required.
I’ll concede that that the Shopsmith is well made, cleverly designed and well supported by the factory.
This way, the subsequent long grain passes will clear up any splintering or tear-outs made by the end grain cuts. This overhead set-up is preferred for operations such as this since it provides maximum visibility and safety while making your stopped mortise cuts. Glue and clamp the top, bottom, sides and front face together, being careful to keep everything square during assembly.
Use the table height lever (Model 500) or table height crank (Model 510) as a forward feed mechanism, the stop collars from the lathe tailstock to control table movement, the quill feed lever to obtain exact depth of cut, the rip fence as a platform for the workpiece and the miter gauge to square the work-piece to the cutter.
The table is brought up as close to the cutter as possible, and the final adjustment is made by extending the quill. The mating part is formed the same way, with the waste stock cut away by running the work across the cutter within limits set by the two end cuts and stop blocks.
The fixture is constructed as shown in Figure 10-16, with the runners situated so the platform will slide smoothly on the table. On narrow stock the groove can be completed in one pass by using a spacer board between the workpiece and the fence.
They may save a little shop space, but I don’t have time to be constantly changing over from one tool to another. Oh, and by the way – good luck FINDING and AFFORDING a Horizontal Boring Machine with samethe Shopsmith’s capablities (bring a real FAT wallet)!I priced out all the free standing machines a local store carried in stock and I well exceeded the purchase price of the brand new MK VII!
I’ve owned my old Mark 510 now for 26 YEARS and it’s run thousands of hours and cranked out small and LARGE projects alike with little to NO significant repairs needed! Everything else is taken up by a washer and dryer, and storage for steel, handle scale material, belts, assorted clamps and angle grinder discs, etc. You would need a HUGE clear basement or garage area for the workspace needed for individual tools.
I have just added a Kreg fence to the Band-saw and a Ring Master to the lathe (remember this could be a 50 year old machine). Over the 60 years since it appeared in 1948, it’s estimated that the Shopsmith has introduced at least 300,000 men and women to the joys of craftsmanship. Even though I have a better-than-average selection of stand-alone tools in my personal shop, I have kept my Shopsmith because there are things you can do on it that you just can’t do as well (or at all!) on conventional tools. I could never get all the stand alone tools to do what my Shopsmith can do in my 12 x 14 shop. It was still running when we finally sold it (no space at the time to keep it!) He made dozens of toys on it for us kids. Don’t worry, I would found a place for them like in the bedroom, spare room or the shed.

Fantastic customer service from a company that is interested in EDUCATING and SATISFYING their customers, not just taking their hard earned money.
If you wish to place your shop in a garage or basement the Shopsmith is definitely superior It can be operated on a standard 15 amp circuit, and moved out of the way if a space must serve multiple purposes. A stand alone saw that can do the same will cost several thousand dollars and weigh over 900 lbs. However you will end up with a lot of machines powered with noisy short life universal type motors.
Shopsmith does a great job selling them on the versatility of the tool at their shopping mall demos. Once the assembly has dried thoroughly, drill the appropriate-sized hole in the face panel for your clock movement. Another method is to pencil mark the worktable so that the edge of the workpiece can be moved forward to a new mark after each cut. The table height lever (Model 500) or table height crank (Model 510) is used as the forward feed mechanism. When feeding the workpiece forward against the cutter, move the worktable slowly, and be sure the workpiece is clamped securely in place. Note the position of the worktable and the rip fence and the use of the feather board and fence extension. Care must be exercised in positioning the pieces for successive cuts, but testing in scrap wood before cutting will make this easier. The table is raised to an approximate position and the final adjustment for depth of cut is made by using the quill feed lever. Runners should fit snugly against the edges of the table (Model 500) or the table tubes (Model 510). A dependable, accurate, well made, heavy-duty, USA built, multi-function, super versatile power tool with a manufacturer that stands behind it 100 percent. Even at that, you would probably have to order an expensive aftermarket fence to equal the quality of the fence that is standard on the 520. Which in my experience is toward the novice woodworking crowd as the only tool they’ll ever need. When you mark the worktable, first determine the centerline of the spindle; then mark the cutlines by measuring toward the worktable edges, front and rear. After the cut is made, turn off the Mark V and return the worktable to the starting position. By using the setups shown in Figures 10-13 and 10-14, you can join boards edge-to-edge or provide a sliding arrangement. With the 520 I have a very large table top with auxiliary tables it extends up to 8 feet wide. I have never seen a Shopsmith in any professional woodworking shop and that’s the most telling indictment for me. For spacing, the fence can be moved for each new cut or the worktable can be advanced-again by using the table height mechanism as a forward feed device.
I also have the mortising tool and biscuit jointer and both use the fence or mitre gauge from the table saw. When feeding the workpiece against the cutter, hold it firmly on the worktable and push it slowly.
Caution: If the cut is for a through dovetail, use a scrap block between the work and the table. Then the workpiece is turned and the second pass is made; thus, the cutter completes the forming of the tenon on the opposite surface of the board (Figure 10-14). I like the fact that I have only one headstock to keep clean instead of a bunch of stand alone equipment. Most of the time the setting from one tool carry on the the next, changing between tools takes less time than getting a standalone tool down from the shelf or out of the box.
Here, even more than elsewhere, be sure the workpiece is held firmly and flat against the table. Since the first half-cut (on wide boards) removes the line, it is necessary to use a straightedge to realign the workpiece with the mark on the fence before completing the cut (Figure 10-17). This method is not limited to dovetail grooves; straight grooves are cut with router bits, and the procedure is exactly the same. By having sharp chisels, drill bits, saw blades I can do anything with my shopsmith just as good as an expensive standalone unit.

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  1. Juli

    Projects, from boats to vehicles and trucks, birdhouses and.


  2. Brat_angel

    Very little progress this and clamp/vacuum bag purposes how artistic you.


  3. AngelGirl

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    Decorating And Hearth Pits The Marsh Fox??Duck the store, you have.