On old aircraft where they had tiny power a single blade prop (with counterbalance) was used.
On most boats the power is too high to even contemplate a 2 blade prop , as cavitation rears its inefficient head.
Location: Gulf Coast USA After seeing that boat from Sweden and a couple of the recent posts it occured to me that I had posted a similar concept design for a new type of local banca boat in this or another forum a while back. If you can get over the awful colors you can probably see my concept here -- basically a simple inverted vee aft bottom that creates a substantial 'tunnel' over the prop, with more propeller shrouding from the planing shoe below.
The idea here was to use the Atkin concept not only for prop and rudder protection, but also to create even more of a tunnel or 'channeling' effect, hopefully for higher fuel efficiency.
The Atkin BKRD used the thrust to keep the stern from going down , as it directs the thrust aft. So the Atkin should be more efficient boat over displacement speed , but before full plaining is achieved. This I guess is why the Atkin selected engines were modest in size , and the speeds in the 12 -16 mph range . Also what portion of the total displacement should the box keel float , is still an open question. The Austrians went for 75% of the boat weight , Atkin was less, although his wooden boats were heavier too.. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: The deep blue sea Thanks to everyone that has responded to this post. I’ve corresponded with Renn Tolman regarding the Tolman Seabright hull and he is planning to run an inboard on his boat.
Location: Australia FF - sorry, I meant why bother with the SB's complexity if using an outboard. Tom - The shape you describe has (unless I misunderstand you) already been tried - and with much success. I've been tinkering with a monohulled version along similar lines, which I've called the monomaran. It might be possible to allow the box keel to have the plaining angle of attack , so the hull above would still be fairly level.
The trim might be changed by venting the aft negative deadrise section with an OTS trim tab set.
While a 10-1 L-B boat would be interesting , the Old Camper and Nicholson pre-war 50 ft launches ran 20K on 100HP, so its a proven concept. Adding the light weight of todays materials and engines should allow the LB ratio to fatten and still be cheap to push.
But I'm wondering if the box keel actually was 75% of the displacement , if ONLY the LB ratio of the box keel would predominate?
Lighter weight equals cheaper high speeds, so the weight of the engine and fuel would be the key in displacement , at 1500 lbs for the inboard diesel and 500 miles of fuel at perhaps 4 nmpg , it won't be too light. This would perhaps allow the boat to run aground harder , so might not be great for a designed beachable boat. I think a flat planing surface on the keel might defeat the purpose of the combination as I see it.
There are boats that carry all of the displacement in keels that operate fully submerged but they have to be cats or have fly by wire stabilization. Location: Australia Apologies to the original poster of this thread - we seem to have hijacked it somewhat, so I'll be relatively brief. FF - as Tom suggests, there's no point in building any planing traits into the keel section as it operates in a displacement mode, albeit at much higher speeds than the traditional 1.34 SL, as a result of its high LB. Location: Australia In reality, the 'keel' section would probably carry greater draft than indicated. What other hull designs offer semi-displacement speeds at a low horsepower requirement, while at the same time offering a seaworthy, rough water capability?
Here's a little one I've been designing in the evenings while building my Tolman Seabright Skiff during the days. At 6 inches of draft it has 9.5 inches of freeboard and its displacement is 500 pounds, 250 for the boat and 250 for a big person and some fuel and gear. From a hunter's perspective, I suspect there might be a fair amount of waveslap noise generated by the tunnel portions when slipping along at displacement speeds or when still in the water.
I like the idea of a tunnel-protected propellor as an alternative to a jet, and the low expense and user-friendly maintenance of the simple drive train.
Location: Knik, Alaska To be honest though, I hate putting outboards in a well.
Noting that the most efficient planing hull possible is going to be the good ol' flat bottomed boat since it doesn't waste energy pushing water out to the sides in trade for a softer ride.
Going in reverse in shallow rocky, gravel bar, or weedy conditions is always a pain, especially with a prop guard, but there isn't any perfect answer for the shallows.
I figured that most people would prefer to save the cost of reverse gear and just use the oars to row backwards (or push off other things) until they could turn around. Maybe when at rest, but I think I should build one and report on this first before guessing at it. The boat in the foreground is an 18' SeaBright Skiff, built as a beach lifeboat by Charles Hankin in Seabright NJ. I just got back from the Long Island Maritime Museum, where they are having a Bay Day, which includes the exhibition of some classic boats. Great job, the boat looks like it will be a fun boat too, puttering along in character and style. Great, I will be looking foward to seeing that one back up to snuff and I am sure that the quaility will be simular. Each side is a single plank of Mahogany, so I think I'll finish them and the transoms bright.
Just Purchased a 1970 Charles Hankins Sea Bright Skiff wondering what kind of Trailer to Put Under It? Towing cross-country and doing a lot of salt-water beach launches would indicate one sort of trailer, short-distance freshwater ramp launching another. This trailer looks like it was modified just for the show, as it doesn't correctly support the sides of the hull, just the keel.
Here are the bunk supports for my Chamberlain Dory Skiff, which should actually be curved to match the hull. We can help answer your questions much better if we know where in the wide world you are located, and may be able to direct you to local resources.
Update your location by using the Private Messages link on the left in the brown menu bar above. Nothing very special required, just make sure it is rated for the weight (should be no problem for your boat).
Add a UHMW skid shoe to the keel, and you'll have a nice and greasy skid experience right on and off the flat plank keel support on the trailer. I took chappelle's 14fter and scaled it up, faired it in CAD and added a bit of tumblehome, I made the half hull and it was so nice that im going to carvel plank her.
There's one rich man onboard and there's twentyfive poor men and they enjoy it more then the rich man does -Jim Kilroy when asked if yacht racing is a rich mans sport. Location: St Augustine Fl, Thailand Electric Marine Propulsion, Rim Drive Technologies Have you guys given considerations to the 'rim drive' propulsion units?
Location: United States Chinese Junk Yobarnacle, did you just call my future dreamboat Chinese junk?
I need high tech design-engineered boat, utilizing proven low maintenance components while being mindful of my carbon footprint.
Location: United States BTW, I read that our word Yacht came from Dutch Jaght from old Dutch Junko from Chinese Jun (boat) or Javanese Djong (boat) among other explanations. I will be happy to dream about my junk rigged, unstayed-aft-mast, motorsailor, powered by Chinese junk hybrid propulsion, navigated by Chinese made Garmin with Chinese made iPad. Sailor Alan, do you know where I can find transmission gear efficiency of keel drive, sail drive, outboard drive and inboard drive? I am thinking, affordable long term live aboard cruiser should be made with Chinese parts, designed sustainably, assembled with local labor. Various navies have experimented with ?shark skin? and ?Dolphin Skin? on their hulls, but both are dynamic, so a little bit hard to do mechanically.
There is a ?engineering handbook? that lists all the efficiencies for chain, gear, toothed belt reductions. I don't think there is a systematic chart of propeller drive form, but some ?rules? do apply. Slow boats, hull speed, use long keels with imbedded shafts, probably because longitudinal stability is important, and skin friction is not. Be aware, Lithium Iron batteries have a very delicate manufacturing process, and a poorly controlled one leaves particulates of Iron in the gel contained within it. Chinese Photovoltaic panels suffer the same issues, cheap and poor efficiency, again usually a result of poor purity in the ingredients. I have had bad experiences with the small (high speed?) diesel generators from China, not starting when needed. Many Chinese Lithium batteries have proven themselves in electric bicycle applications worldwide.
Even best iconic US product, Apple's iPhone, is manufactured in China along with all IBM servers now.
Location: Mexico, Florida The food preparation area doesn't HAVE to take up permanent space or be a designer galley.
The one exception to semi-permanently installed, is a single burner sea-swing stove keeping the coffee hot. Location: Mexico, Florida oh, instead of just batteries, check out super-capacitors. If I was to sail with my son or my brother, then a 24-30' boat with camping-like set up would be sufficient and a single table for cooking and navigation is good enough.
In my mono sport fishing boat, I can cook under hardtop on portable butane stove even though it has a standing galley in cabin.
The main cabin of the Albin 'Intrepidos' formerly had vee berths with a table, a full galley and a standup head. The new central hull would have a cross section a bit like a 'box keel' but where the 'keel' comes up to the arma level. This makes the central hull about 8? wide, and with enough flair to stow the floats under the extensions when on the trailer. I would go for a short mast, perhaps 10-12? high to launch a paragliding parachute for sailing. Good advice about the gimbaled single burner, ours is an old kettle with a single burner brazed on the bottom, and hung from a wire hook. For the regular sea-swing, a pyramid style food grater brazed to a small circular metal plate that fits inside the pot holder, makes a good cabin heater. Location: United States Fast Economical Boats and Diesel Sailor Alan, that is a one heck of a trimaran. My preferred hull shape is double ended fat dory hull above water line with modified Seabright hull below water. Yobarnacle, any advice since you should have more experience with this type of hull (bartender, trawler and barge).

The true live aboard cruiser for a retired couple or a small family should be sufficiently furnished for living extended period away from the home in reasonable comfort. Location: Mexico, Florida I'm not planning to cross any more oceans by boat. Working with boats is our passion and our experience stems from Tall Ship training and open water sailing.
The following boats are a sampling of the over six-dozen period craft that we currently represent for film and production work.
Before you inquire with us about using any of our boats for your project, please read our FAQ page. A Bantry Bag Gig, also called an 18th century Admiral's Barge, built on the lines of the original French boat captured in Ireland in 1796.
A historically accurate English lonagboat replica circa 1605 suitable for transporting and landing large crews.
A Crotch Island Pinky - A traditional general purpose double-ended sailing vessel; a very stable sailer and suitable for use as a 19th century and early 20th century pleasure craft or work boat.
A replica of an 1812 British Gunboat, representative of similar vessels that were used on the Great Lakes and Georgian Bay during the late 18th and early 19th century. Sail: Gaff-rigged topsail cutter with a lug-rigged main topsail, a jib topsail and a split course. A representation of an early 19th century work boat, built on the lines of a Chesapeake double-ended Sharpie. A traditionally built replica of an early 18th century Gaspe Skiff, a dory-like design originally made for cod fishing. A traditionally built Whitehall, the standard work and leisure boat of the late 18th through early 20th century. Just Cleaned Interior Thoroughly Drying Out To Repaint Original Light Blue I will Spray It,Interlux Interdeck Non Skid Squall Blue is the exact Color Match but dont want a Non Skid Paint as It will Collect and Retain Dirt I can Take Color Chip To Home Depot and Have It Matched In BEHR Exterior Paint,Any Suggestions?
Quite a few Exterior Rivet Holes have Come Unplugged Any Sugestions for proper Filler and Fairing?
Also, the rescue minor lines don't show as much vertical step to the keel chine, and I left this feature off my model, although it is not a model of RM, but an overscaled Grampus. I believe these little steps may be important to the shallow water performance, generating vortices on longitudinal axes that will facilitate attached flow around the keel into the propwash and up into the inv.
I think you would need a hydrodynamic modeling approach that could accurately include this type of flow, and prop wash interaction with it, if you want to look at a hull that has theses chines. Algorithms developed from flow around more conventional hulls might not be right for this one.
If I tried to build such a boat, I would start from RM lines in the .gif posted by fcfc, keeping in mind that it does not show much of a step to the keel chine. I might also build with less hook and add central trim tabs to try to tune things, then wedge in hook as needed, as I think PAR suggested earlier in this thread or the related one. Although RIVER BELLE has a deck house of huge size that would indeed condemn her to inshore use the lines plan is what I need. I intend too tow the model alongside a small power boat , and install an electric motor only in the hull. I should be able to observe any undesirable features as I power the scale model from the towing boat. Location: 1k Islands That's funny Fred, as I spent about an hour last night entering Atkin's River Belle lines into DELFTship as a background image. When (!) I'm successful in getting the lines in there, I too plan to modify them above the W.L.
The model idea is a good one, but you might think about making it bigger for hydro testing purposes.
The only TEST DATA I'm going to get will be from my Mark 1 Mod 2 set of Eyeballs , as we drag it alongside. It is my understanding that tow-testing of a tunnel-stern design will NOT provide meaningful data, the propeller pulling water into the tunnel is integral to its performance.
Location: Gulf Coast USA The Tolman Seabright Skiff is a brand new inverted-vee tunnel-stern Seabright design. I'm building one of the new Tolman Seabright Skiffs now, but have only just gotten started and my camera is dead so I won't have any pictures to post for a while. My best guess is that while the boat is running its prop is creating underbody suction that keeps the boat securely 'attached' to the surface -- so effectively in fact that it behaves like a much larger or heavier boat.
I think this is the key to exceptional efficiency when these boats are run at their designed speeds. Personally I would like to design and build my own line of similar boats, some in the 15-17 foot size range, for even lower power requirements and even more affordability. Location: Gulf Coast USA Renn Tolman is working on the prototype and I'm building the first non-prototype from Renn's preliminary plans. In other words, I think this is one of those times when patience is going to be worth the wait. I'm taking a chance that the boat will actually perform well by building one before Renn has finished and tested his prototype. I think the hull rises aft from the water below being pressurized by the prop , lifting the aft area with enough force that any weight on the gunnels is unnoticed . This could explain the flat level turns , lack of roll from beam waves and super smooth wake these boats leave. The wake on the Shannon looks great , but the bow seems a very poor selection , blowing spray many feet into the air. Location: Gulf Coast USA Sorry Fast Fred, I don't understand your reference to Shannon and Wallys, are these also Seabright skiffs? Now that there is no air and only water under there, the hull cannot be easily moved up and down vertically -- because every upward movement will have to suck more water into the 'cavity' and every downward movement will have to force more water out of the cavity.
The Wally is simply an example of a boat that makes very little spray forward , instead of the Shannon that sends huge sheets of water airborne. I disagree with the writer's conclusion that tank testing of Seabright Skiffs proves that they are 20-25 percent less efficient than other designs, and that their handling will suffer much like any boat that had a beer keg attached beneath the hull.
Personally I believe the engine needs to be running and the prop spinning for the hull bottom to function as it was designed -- which means utilizing the wave that comes off the box keel. Note that the plans do NOT call for a transom cutout, Renn built his that way so he could use an outboard if he had to for some reason -- maybe a backup engine?
Location: finland I was a while ago playing with an idea of making a scale model of a seabright skiff with replaceable inserts in the aft bottom. With a model the testing would be done from a lead boat , which doesn't have to be fast due to the scaling. Anything heavy (batterys), or not water proof (recording KW meter) would be in the lead boat. I understand your frustration at perceived off-topic discussion, but it's all relevant to the cause. Don't worry, I'm not actually moving this thread -- so we can continue to discuss the same theoretical testing issues, alternate testing scenarios, and other related topics we've been discussing all along in this thread. If folks here are interested in my progress but don't want to visit the ShoalsRunnerTesting group, I suppose I can post updates here once in a while, at least until I don't have the time any more. If Ken's Atkin model has about a similar total load (340kg), then 15hp motor instead of a planned 5hp is recommended, if max target speed really is 15kn. A light 5m*1.4m planing boat hull, which makes 21kn with a 15hp gasolineYamaha, never exceeded her planing threshold using this very same electrical power system.
So far its all speculation , one reason could be the capture and use of the boundery layer already accelerated from forward. We all know that the prop has tip losses , and thrust is better when captured by a Kort nozzle or some type of ring close to the blade tips. Well the reverse deadrise would also capture that energy , which perhaps helps pressurize the tunnel and lift and accelerate the boat as it leaves aft. Maybe a few percent , added to other few percents (almost flat shaft angle) adds up to the claimed performance. I would be delighted to spring $200 for a SCIENTIFIC test , not a boat race that will give nothing useful to advance or even test the BKRD concept.
I would also love to visit the portfolio of other boats finished , weight , power amd speed, by the prospective builder. Location: Spokane, Wa Fred, there have been a number of RM completions as of late, and the performance statistics can be ascertained from at least one builder who finished a hull commercially. Ken, why not just finish your tunnel stern Tolman, and test it against Tom's numbers from BJ24? Finishing the Tolman enough to get it on the water will easily cost twice as much as the proposed tests.
Yes it is possible to modify the Tolman for outboard propulsion, but it needs an outboard well for this, and the well must be sealed so it doesn't pump water up into the hull. I already have a concept for this second type of engine installation, mostly because I know how popular the new 4-stroke outboards are in the USA. There is no question that the tunnel-stern boats are practical and worthwhile if shallow draft is of primary importance, because in places where shoal draft is critical a deeper draft boat simply will not serve the purpose no matter how fuel efficient it might be.
I still don't know how to use the software to do this optimization myself, so if I haven't learned it when the time comes to start building, I'm hoping I can impose on Rick Willoughby to help me out. Location: Spokane, Wa I guess it seems to me that the penultimate way to put numbers on the board is to build a hull, power it, and see what happens. Of course, but only if you care about the specific performance of that hull instead of comparing it to another hull. If you have a half finished tunnel stern seabright laying out in your yard, why not put it in service. People always make their own decisions about how to spend their money, I see no problem with this. Perhaps , but it MAY only prove which engine gives a bit more power at a calibrated RPM , or calibrated fuel burn.
Sorry if in the questionnaire you'll find some italian words, it's a limit of Google tool I've used to prepare the poll. The basic hullform is rigid, with an inflatable collar that would ride with only the aft section just above the at speed WL.
CANADA It occurs that such an elaborate bottom design would be better suited to fiberglass construction (and Im no fan of glass boats) for production.
CANADA I agree an outboard in a well would be the simplest solution for power.The anti cavitation plate could be half of a gasketed sealing surface with motor down, and jacking vertically with a rack and pinion device or a foot operated lever as the old disappearing propeller boats had. CANADA Were getting into a regional discussion here.The guy with the nitro wouldnt last the day where I run,and I would be pulling weeds out of the foot all day where he does.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. Rollers would make launching & retrieving easier, but flat bunks (like the Jersey speed skiffs use) will give considerably better hull support. I'm doing lots of research right now and I'm seriously considering building a sailing version for myself. Where can I find transmission efficiency of chain drive, V-belt, bevel gear, planetary gear, gear belt. In a water only use, this is a bit better than the ?soft curtain? systems, if only in directional stability.
The smaller the contact area the higher efficiency, but this also depends on power, and size requirements.

Like airplane design, you pick a configuration for other reasons, and make it as efficient as possible. Planning boats, even fast boats like destroyers, cut away the rear hull to reduce surface friction to a minimum. Even Li-Pos are reasonable batteries provided you follow strict battery charging regiment, cell voltage balancing and fire bag LiFePO4 are considered stable and thus command higher price among Chinese batteries.
Siemens and Sanyo still manufacture highest efficiency PV panels, but top Chinese PV panel manufacturers' quality is on par with Siemens and Sanyo. But when I have other family aboard (wife, daughter, grandkids) for a week or more then we would absolutely need all that space especially in Inner Passage or during Pacific crossing.
Far less ?turnover? (heeling motion) and very fast down wind and off the wind, and easy to handle. Just because of better boat handling and safety in bar crossing and square swell conditions we have in West coast. Better fuel economy, easier availability worldwide, can burn most oil too, explosion safety, longer engine life, etc. This way it is very stable and most safety in all sea conditions, yet modified Seabright hull helps pounding and assist lift for semi-displacement speed I am seeking. I added cruiser since original poster wanted something he can cruise with his wife in protected water. I can not buy the assumption that minimalistic cutting board and bucket next to a dining table is a live aboard suitable for couple or a family. I know this is relative but I would say something Alaskan homesteader can live in reasonable comfort if moored in their property. It doesn't need to have a washing machine and an air-conditioning, but a microwave oven, a refrigerator, a bathroom with a shower and a desalinator is needed. Lets set total budget at launch off to $250k, so average Westerner can sell their house and afford this boat. With our base of operations located just ninety minutes from New York City and with resources stretching from Florida to New England and Canada, we've developed the largest network of privately owned period watercraft, many of which can be trailered and taken just about anywhere.
We've worked with historical vessels on the Delaware River & Bay, Lake George, Lake Champlain, Long Island Sound, Narragansett Bay, Buzzards Bay, the Potomac River, Hudson River, James River, Virginia Beach, Cape Cod, and the waterways of Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. This type of boat was used by many of the world's navies during the 18th and early 19th century.
The paint scheme and rig have been altered from time to time to suit various historical purposes. The one pictured is painted white, while the other identical boat (not pictured) has a varnished hull. I'm following the tutorial the best I can, and I've made some progress, but I've got a long way to go yet.
I don't think that a model 6' long would take twice as long to build as one 3', but the test data that it would yield might be that much more accurate.
I need a place where posts remain on-topic and it's not happening here -- but it will in a Yahoo group because they let me delete off-topic messages before they are posted.
Revs increase linearly according to motor voltage, and power from battery is amperes * volts there.
The skinny Tornado hull is good to avoid wave drag, but it is too skinny to carry all batteries required for long trips. Same outboard, toy with the displacement to get comparable to BlueJacket, and see what the numbers say.
Once we know this, we can all make more intelligent decisions about which style of hull to use on our own boats if we want the best possible fuel economy.
The only difference being that the 'box keel' is replaced with parabolic or circular sections, that are more efficient in the displacement realm. There are always going to be V8 jet sleds in the river and fountains with blown big blocks in the lakes. Cruise ships are very interested in overall economy, so tend to lead the way, but they are also interested in less draft, very low noise, and independent maneuverability, so these could be overriding factors. Smaller boats also mess about trying to reduce shaft exposure, eventually getting to vertical drive shafts, OB, stern drives, and sail drives.
Personal visits to China indicate the indigenous low speed, heavy, diesels are fantastically reliable, running for years un-loved in a field, usually pumping something. Lead acid has reasonable install price and is still good for ballast, but LiFePO4 is stable and price competitive in long run. Chinese have invested heavily in PV cells, lithium batteries and electric motor technologies. Chinese batteries are cheap because it doesn't follow Western distribution channels to get to us. For washing up, a tiny dollhouse sized stainless sink may be cute, but a wash bucket and rinse bucket set on deck by your feet is much more efficient. Multi hulls don't need swing mounted stove Girls like stable boat, lots of initial stability. But if it is raining and cold, I rather be in enclosed protected space where water boils faster. The circuit gets too complicated and expensive even if super capacitors are inexpensive IMO. This will reduce pitch-pollinh for multihulls and yawing the monohull to set up for broaching. The highjacker added environmental factor as an highest priority issue for an affordability. She wants something that can handle some of our grandkids or other guests for dinner and safely cross oceans without too much chumming. A small air conditioner for a cabin would be nice though Remember cruising speed of 8-12 knots and top speed of 15 knots. As a Marine Coordinator we take with us all of the equipment needed to support the boats on the water and production set.
We encourage you to discuss your project with us so that we can pair the right boats to suit your production needs and historical depiction. I do know for a fact that the numbers from the as-plans hulls in sheet ply and frames are not nearly as stunning as the ones that came from Robb. That seems like a nice first step into your two-boat concept, considering you already have the hull built. At 1500 lbs and 50 hp, I am having trouble getting 5 gallons burnt in a 3 day weekend of fishing around our inland lake. Renn's won't be done for a while, you have the manpower, whats a few bucks out of your own pocket? In order to recoup your costs, sell advertising on that site using google ads or something along those lines. I wish someone would build some of the versions with high displacement in a narrow canoe body keel and a low deadrise upper hull. The smaller the area, the higher the pressure, the higher the noise, and the higher the power density.
Roller chain drive is usually the best, not a coincidence that we see it on bicycles, and human powered aircraft. I suspect the sail drive should be lower drag at slow speeds, no ?base drag? at the transom like a OB or stern drive. Cheap cells are usually subject to these kind of manufacturing faults, but expensive ones are not necessarily better, merely more expensive.
The catamaran has stable large platform deck and private cabins but difficult to have large standing gathering space and reasonable windage. Regardless of who makes the diesel engine, it should be low RPM, non-turbo, low tech diesel then it is low maintenance and long life.
4 out of top 5 volume PV manufacturers are Chinese, the other is Korean owned company in China.
Properly matched battery cells, good battery management circuitry and proper cell balancing will give 1000+ recharge cycles compared to 200+ recharge cycles on best US AGM batteries.
3' chop is fine with small wave piercing but 8-12' swell with 3' chop on top, which is typical for even Northern California water won't work with small wave piercing hull. Monthly operating cost including fuel should be less than $2,000 so minimal fixed income couple can afford to live on it.
The boats that we represent were either built or restored by their crews, and we bring along exemplary technical experience with every boat we use.
Our team of classic boat owners and maritime historians gives us a unique resource for period boats and related maritime items.
Nevertheless the boat does not squat because of the reverse curve of the after portion of the underbody.
Robb was an unfettered genius, building by eye quite often, and may have stumbled upon not only light displacement, but may have manipulated hullform slightly by using his tulip poplar strip planking techniques.
If I can track down a fuel meter, id love to give numbers to this cause, giving a start point to a collection of hulls running at SL 2-3, weight, hp, and other desired parameters.
Maybe Pat will want to put an Atkin ad on the site because it brings up many of the designs she sells. The lower unit sealing issue could be solved with a rubber bellows surrounding the leg and sealed at bottom with aforementioned mating gaskets.
Toothed belts and V belts are pretty bad, they need a lot of lateral tension to work properly. Military ships are also interested in efficiency, even if only to go fast, and they use variable pitch propellers for acceleration as well.
Hence track record of a manufacturer, or constant personal surveillance (inspection) is necessary to ensure quality. Some are claim to have up to 90C rating, but I doubt that is a true engineering specification from reputable manufacturer.
This may be a more effective way to garner the cash, as for most of us, its a little hard to take $100 and stick it in an envelope to the Phillipines on a test that may or may not tell anyone anything other than an anecdote.
My current boat already transitions at at no more than two degrees, so it seems very possible. I dont think it will gain mass appeal as there is no greatest all around boat and it may be perceived as a gimmick.
They are usually chosen for cheap, or a visually obvious life, ease of replacement, or on aircraft, a stated, specific, but limited life.
The waters I would like to sail would be PNW Inner Passage and South Pacific Islands ICW and Mediterranean doesn't sound bad either. Rare earth magnet required for high quality electric motor are mostly mined from China, and China is restricting exporting strategic rare earth materials and forcing manufacturers to setup shop in China with Chinese manufacturers. So we are seeking an affordable, environmental, offshore, ocean cruiser live aboard that can be trailered or demounted. I can get low tech 50-100 HP Chinese agricultural diesel engines for small Japanese diesel price.
They seems to be prevalent in most RC hobby website, so I am guessing it may be RC hobby marketing talk where some degradation and occasional battery fire is acceptable.

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