Looks great to me that design presents a number of challenges, so I’d say you did a very nice job.
DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. Yes, I thought the saga of the Roubo Bookstand article from the February 2011 issue was over (“It’s awesome!” “It’s crap!” “I like mushy peas!”). Chris is a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking Magazine and the publisher at Lost Art Press. For the fret work, I wonder if it would be best to do it before you split the board, or to split it first, and then cut both sides at once as a ganged cut. I would either do the fretwork before ripping ot after ripping, not the way you suggest, especially if doing a very detailed design. That was a great link to the video of Christopher Schwartz showing how to cut out the joint of the book stand. If this is your first visit, be sure to read the Forum Code of Conduct and check out the FAQs. Below is an account on how to make this bookstand-- I've included MPC's of the stand for the CW which will make things go MUCH faster. I have to give credit where it is due-- this idea came from Roy Underhill's article in a recent Pop WWing mag and was further cultivated by Chris Schwarz's blog on the subject.

Now I'll just have to find a way to do the slicing cuts accurately without that depth on my bandsaw. This folding bookstand is based on the one in the Roy Underhill article in the February 2011 Popular Woodworking issue.
Aaron, the smoothing was done with a jack plane across the grain and a card scraper with the grain. This bookstand is a great project!Here’s mine that was featured in Woodcarving Illustrated, Fall 2009. Robert, I love your work, I have been looking for just the right board to do this project myself.
Instead of cutting the bookstand out of one piece of thick wood, he built it up using laminations of thinner material. I cut the 45 degree sections backwards and when I split the board it all fell to the floor in 4 pieces. What I have in mind is to give it to my wife for her cookbooks, so it’ll probably be unicorns. You will still need a way to seperate the sides (a bandsaw or a hand rip saw will work) and a way to cut the knuckle seperators (a coping saw or scroll saw works well, but I've seen Chris Schwarz do it with a scroll saw blade held by hand and it worked for him.
The saw kerf that you take out by sawing it part way leaves a space between the two piece that you’ll be doing the fret work on.

Pre split or post split wouldn’t really matter because it would still be cutting the same thickness.
This also allows for a much thicker top portion which will provide more wood for a relief carve. I would hate to do the fret work then mess up the board while ripping it.William something like the one I saw in the antique store. If you’re real worried about it, you can also put a brad nail through the wood inside one of the waste areas that will be cut out. The most important thing is to always carve exactly half as deep as the workpiece is thick from each side-- this way the hinge will work correctly. If I understand it right, both pieces together are around an inch, so I wouldn’t have no problem stack cutting them.

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  1. 101

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  2. Rejissor

    Work on a venture themselves, so most likely 1.5 hours cool and easy woodworking challenge which.