Before any cutting-edge shaping begins, the iron is ground along the long edges to an angle matching the cheek angles of the plane, which are about 23°. I don’t actually measure the bevel angles of the iron as I hone them, but judge them by eye.
The first step in shaping the iron is to paint the face (the tool steel surface) with layout fluid. When grinding the  final cutting bevel angle, I set the tool rest at a low angle relative to the grinding stone (about as low as I can get) .
The iron is resting flat on the tool rest, my forefinger acts as a fence against the proximal edge of the rest and my thumb is pressing on the iron face to advance or retreat the iron as I grind. I typically grind the middle bevel first, then the left bevel and save the fillet bevel for last. I also use a WorkSharp where I put the same grit on both faces of the glass plate and work my way through a number of grits (in stages from #36 to #2,000 grit, depending on the amount of work to be done).
Throughout this honing process, I focus on the two long bevels, testing the progress by reinserting the iron in the plane body. Once I am completely happy with the two long bevels, I turn my attention to tweaking the fillet bevel. More pictures may help but I would like to suggest that annotations added to the existing pictures might be more helpful as well.
Given all that, is there any possibility that a Make A Panel Raising Plane DVD will become available in the future? It just dawned on me that those first four drawings above represent the sole profile of the plane body as seen from the toe of the plane and don’t represent the plane iron. I have to admit that I’ve read the article several times and I would love to consider making an attempt at it.
Does anyone have any leads on where to find a nice chunk of quartersawn beech to make this plane or others? If these guy had taken a class with you, or worked with you in Roy’s shop they would understand and be a little kinder about your contributions. I haven’t taken the class, but I agree that the article and this post stretches the bounds of my woodworking, which is a good thing! I understand why the bevel raised panel was chosen for the article, but it would be interesting to see how more complex shapes were made. If Megan is reading this, would you please convert this post (pictures and all) to a pdf we can download and print. You get all of the above with our download, plus we’ll let you in on a secret – these 3 beginner woodworking projects are not just for complete beginners. To receive your free download, join our mailing list and never miss news, tips, promotions or discounts. When it comes to tables, knowledge of basic woodworking joints is key to preventing wear and tear.
Bob’s detail of the mitered tenon for mortise and tenon furniture (left) and use of a wider leg for the same joint (right). The other big takeaway from this project plan, in my opinion, is the discussion of wood movement.
So, in summary, we have a few well-curated freebies on the download page – from woodworking ideas to wood furniture design – and we are adding more every few weeks. I’m pretty sure that nothing (including varnish) remains 100% forever, but I could be wrong.
When it comes to wood selection, your decision has to be more than simply mahogany, walnut or cherry.
The swirled grain found on the cellarette case sides is not as appealing as the panels used for the front. Steaming walnut forces color throughout the wood so more looks more purple than brown – mills are trying to mask sapwood to make more of the tree usable.
When selecting your inlay woods, look for light, clear and straight-grained woods if you can. You choose deep-colored wood for your project so you don’t need to stain or dye when you reach the finishing stage.
I’m not fond of a high shine on my projects, so my choice are to rub out the shellac, or spray a last coat of dull-rubbed effect lacquer.
Glen Huey is a former managing editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine, a period furniture maker and author of numerous woodworking books, videos and magazine articles. John, I’ve always thought that dowel rod ends would absorb more finish and appear darker than a round inlay taken from a face-grain plug – similar to how wooden peg ends absorb. Even though minute amounts of glaze are left on the surface in wood pores, there is not enough to dull or muddy the finish.
A short bevel on the right edge defines the fillet, the long bevel in the middle defines the angled face of the panel and the somewhat shorter bevel on the left defines the tongue that fits into the door or lid frame. The width of a bevel for cutting and slicing should be a bit more than twice (but less than three times) the thickness of the iron at the cutting edge.
As I get close to the lines, I begin to grind the iron to the precise shape using my eye as the guide. The approach to the cutting edge should be even and consistent in thickness throughout the process, and the bevel should be ground with only one facet across its face.
I use a Veritas tool rest, which is articulated and slotted for the stone, so I can get good support all the way along my iron as I grind.

With a good sense of touch and great care, it’s possible to have the iron rest flat on the bevel on the honing stone. For one-off irons, I generally use a medium diamond plate followed by Japanese stones (#800, #1,200 and #4,000 grit). The throughput with this device is amazing (I often sharpen 30-40 chisels and 30 block, jack and smoothing planes over a four-hour period). I check that the two bevels are parallel to the plane body profile, and that the intersection of the bevels matches the arris on the plane profile.  If the intersection is misplaced, both bevels must be reworked. Maintaining this part of the iron fat until this point keeps me from being found slumped over my bench crying a bucket full of tears. It took a lot of rereading and studying the pictures intently to finally discern what was being described. I have a few other projects to finish up until then, but it’s something to keep on the back burner. Style that does not sacrifice quality, because you want your beautiful woodworking projects to last. Even the experienced staff members here at Popular Woodworking like to complete these easy wood projects from time to time. You’ll also learn a few things about hole saw kits, ebonizing wood and how to make a homemade drum sander. This attractive box for toys or knick-knacks will teach you how to join boards with simple notched and nailed construction. With this entry bench you’ll learn about panel glueups, curve-cutting and screw joinery. Because we’re all woodworkers here at Popular Woodworking, we generate a huge amount of valuable woodworking information that we cannot possibly cram into the printed magazine. If not, be sure to check it out and download a few more, especially the latest one on Shaker style furniture that is packed with general information on end table plans, coffee table plans, dining table plans and an overall table plan template.
That means it will withstand the style test over many years, no matter what other furniture you acquire or make. I always find that these abstract views make a lot more sense after I have built something that includes the technique in question.
Wood movement always matters, but especially when dealing with a wide piece of stock or edge-joined surface. Recently, most questions that come my way ask how to finish a project that has inlay without heavily affecting the contrast between the project wood and the inlay. What they are doing, however, is turning the rich-colored heartwood into bland-looking and dull lumber. I’ll finish chopping my mortises tomorrow and will dry fit the base to see how much the project suffers, but do you think the impact will be too great given the opportunity of possibly adjusting the moulding at the bottom of the box?
The Cellarette will be perfect for my North Carolina house which was built in 1785… and perfect for hiding my gin bottles which will make my wife happy. Each iron is tapered, and of laminated construction – the tool-steel cutting edge is forge-welded to the face of the iron body. I also make sure the iron is parallel over its length, or possibly slightly tapered away from the cutting edge. The fillet bevel is a side bevel and is quite steep, generating more of a scraping action than a cutting action. To check my progress, I hold the iron firmly to the bed with my thumb with the plane upside down and the toe facing to me.
The arris between two adjacent bevels should be sharp, and at the cutting edge, perfectly bisect the angle between the two bevels.
The cutting action happens in the center, between the right and left thirds of the wheel, back and forth.
Rather than push the iron straight down the stone, I hold the iron sideways so I’m honing along the length rather than the width of the bevel. Because I work on the upper surface of the machine, a finely attuned sense of touch is necessary to keep the bevels even. Changing only one bevel will move the arris between the two bevels to one side or the other. For years I’ve been looking at old wood plane bodies, wondering how they made all those precision cuts.
Agreed, it is very complex and probably not for everyone, but I thought it was very interesting and I am enjoying it thoroughly. Once I understood what I was looking at, as well as what I should be looking at, the words made more sense. The way I look at it, if I can make a plane such as this then I could accomplish just about any other wood plane as well. Some of the other commenters noted that this operation is probably beyond an average woodworkers skill and more importantly, time. There appeared to be a great number of assumptions about the target audience but I was so lost in the jargon and lack of illustrations that I just laughed and moved along.
Save your money for lumber, supplies and woodshop projects that will be necessary for your next steps in the craft.
So the newsletter and community are both great places for us to share what we know with you. And if you make it right, Shaker style furniture will of course withstand the other damages that come with time.

This section of the download can be useful not only in building tables, but also when you start to look at how to build a desk. These days Dan is a former online editor for Popular Woodworking, and is learning new skills every day. And readers want to know how to do that while achieving a nice-looking finish on the project. Those key things are choosing the right wood (not as easy as you may think), what finish products to use and how much of those products to use.
Choose boards that are as deep in color as you can find and try to keep the color consistent as you pick – this is true for any species. Some painstakingly coat the inlay (string, banding or paterae) with shellac to block the stain or dye from reaching the inlay. Something else to consider is that many of the less-expensive dowels seem to be slightly undersized. Sharpening this edge to a typical acute angle of 25° or so would give a bevel that is wide and thin and weak in terms of the type of cutting it does.
The width of the fillet bevel could be the same as the thickness of the iron at that point or even a bit less. This reduces the chance of losing the temper of the iron as I work through this massive step.
If you cut the fillet edge to size too soon – and make the iron undersized – you’ll have to grind away a lot of iron to recover. As you grind, check that the final width of the bevel is sufficiently wide to give a good cutting angle.
I thought the article was a bit wordy in the sense that it carried a lot of overly technical data; at times it seemed to read more like an instruction manual for a fuel injector or a transmission than it did a woodworking article. But I do want to point you to a helpful blog post from Glen Huey for this particular Shaker table project.
On the cellarette, as I do on most of my projects, a coat of boiled linseed oil (BLO) starts the process. The other two bevels are arrayed more on the leading edge of the iron and are sharpened to a standard bevel (25° – 30°) since they cut in the typical manner (slicing and levering). Use a long thin awl to scribe the plane profile onto the iron, and keep the awl as flat as possible on the bed.
Cool the iron every couple of passes across the stone, and dress the stone on occasion to remove glazing, etc and improve the cutting action. The long edges require more care so they should be done first, while the fillet edge is very short and should be done last. I may need to tweak the tool-rest angle as the bevel develops in order to optimize the cutting angle.
It is very important to distribute the pressure evenly along the bevel or you’ll taper the bevel along its length. With that being said, it is an interesting topic, and certainly somebody who could construct this tool has to be pretty talented.
Starting out in America, I got paid low wages even though I was a Master; they tried to blame it on my language skills. Note for example that the mitered-end variety is not for creating a mitered joint within the joint, but rather to relieve a little extra space within the leg.
While this applies to many of the projects I’ve recently built, the most recent e-mail asked about the Carolina Cellarette from the February 2013 issue (#202). BLO soaks into the wood pores where it reflects light – that’s the secret to building depth in your finish.
On the Wright Shaker Counter from June 2012 (issue #197), I taped off the diamond inlays on my drawer fronts.
The iron is already tempered, and if your iron is also tempered, it’s important to retain that temper as the cutting edge is shaped. The bevel ideally should have a rhombohedron shape and extend to below the plane body profile. While I understand what those drawings are trying to convey they don’t seem to correlate to the actual pictures of the profiled iron.
Glen has created a mortise and tenon jig that is cheap, works well and speeds the building process. To warm the wood, I use a couple of coats of amber or orange shellac before switching back to clear. I think that, along with the fact that I made sure there was a glue line around each diamond as I installed them, helped keep the inlay clean. I am now reading it for the fifth time and it seems very straightforward to me, although the proof will be in actually making my own plane.
But even if I would never construct a tool such as this, the article does speak of the ingenuity and talent of the craftsman of the past (and present) who built them.
If there were more inlay than just the diamond escutcheons, I may have worked differently – different primary wood and inlay choice. I use shellac not only because it builds quickly, but also because I can – working with various colors of shellac – warm the overall appearance.

Gun Safe Academy
Nightstand with tray woodworking plan
Plywood 12mm Weight


  1. SEQAL

    (The highest is not really bowed may be made by anyone with handyman abilities.


  2. Emrah

    The undertaking plans are available on their web site for the woodworker, but.


  3. Ayxan_Karamelka

    Homemade Christmas Items is usually a nice concept recycled wooden in your projects.