In “Ron Herman’s Joinery Challenge,” Ron discusses, lays out and cuts different half-lap joints, including a dovetailed half-lap. The  joinery wasn’t new for me, but there were a few things tossed about that opened my eyes. Glen Huey is a former managing editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine, a period furniture maker and author of numerous woodworking books, videos and magazine articles.
Thanks for sharing the tip about folding rules–can’t wait to get home and look at mine and figure out what I have, since as of this moment I am unsure! The Milkman’s Workbench – a portable bench I built for the June 2013 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine – is about 653 percent better than my first workbench. Thanks to the clever engineering in the portable bench, it can handle most handwork tasks when clamped to a dining room table or kitchen countertop. If you watch the accompanying video, you’ll see the tabletop move a bit under the pressure of handplaning. When you clamp this portable bench to a kitchen countertop or a dining table with four legs (instead of two), it’s as sturdy as an old-school workbench. While I wouldn’t trade my 350-pound French behemoth bench for the Milkman’s Workbench, I am certain it would be an outstanding bench for an apartment-dweller, a nomadic woodworker or anyone else who doesn’t have room for a dedicated workshop. Chris is a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking Magazine and the publisher at Lost Art Press.
You get all of the above with our download, plus we’ll let you in on a secret – these 3 beginner woodworking projects are not just for complete beginners. To receive your free download, join our mailing list and never miss news, tips, promotions or discounts. This project is inspired by a period choir bench in my mom’s dining room – but I modernized the Gothic revival design of the original with sweeping curves on the arms (instead of shelter arms), and left out the moulding and cutouts.
This bench is destined for a front porch, so to protect it from the elements, it’s painted – a good thing, because the side panels are glued up from two distinctly different species of pine (one challenge of buying dimensional lumber from the home center) – and I used sticks pulled from the scrap bin for the cleat material (if you don’t have suitable scrap, pick up 1x material at the home center).
I’ve been looking for the ultimate sharpening system for years, one that can quickly and accurately grind and hone a perfect edge. American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014. I improved the tabletop of my bottom-of-the-line table saw, and the saw’s performance has gone through the roof. To create the zero-clearance opening, I clamped the auxiliary top to the table saw’s top, turned on the saw and slowly raised the blade. The MDF piece that faces the saw blade is tall to provide support for thicker or taller workpieces. To add the “T,” I placed the face of the fence against the raised blade and clamped it to the table.
In use, I secure the fence with two clamps – one in front and one in back – after making sure the fence is parallel to the blade. To further enhance your new top, you can include miter tracks, adhesive measuring tape along the front edge and permanent hold-downs for the fence to eliminate the need for clamps.
From time to time I hear someone comment about a woodworking practice that runs totally contrary to what I’ve been taught.
Our work has shown that a smooth surface will always have higher strength than a rough surface.  Two-hundred grit or higher sanding to get flat or tight-fitting joints works well. Steve Shanesy is the former publisher (and former editor and senior editor) of Popular Woodworking Magazine. Not a lot of specific info out there (that I have seen, anyway) So – I appriciate the new knowledge!
I’ve worked in the adhesives industry myself and think this is a less than complete answer.
Instead of worrying about burnishing, I’ve found most people want to know more about exotic and oily woods. I have never seen a study on the use of liquid hide glue for hammer on veneer applications. Polyurethanes like Gorilla glue have similar needs to water based wood glues when wood is the substrate in question. To Steve: You might want to direct your questions in need of an expert elsewhere in the future.
I have been assembling some small wood models lately and found a great glue at a hobby shop called Pinewood Formula Gap Filling Glue.
Just to add a word from the world of wooden aircraft, the FAA will not approve a sanded surface for gluing.

The cordless models come equipped as 18.0 volt units, but can use any Festool flat battery pack going back to 2005.
All Carvex jigsaws have brushless motors, an automatic guidance system that automatically adjusts carbide jaws to the blade to reduce drift, and tool-free blade changes that differ from most jigsaws in that the T-shank blades are slid into the tool and locked with a simple twist that’s  similar to and about as difficult as turning a key in a lock. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the Carvex we played with was a prototype, but it was a working prototype. This is seems more representative of what a Festool brings to the table, as compared to the CXS. This past week, Monday was a day filled with learning – I spent the day with Ron Herman as he filmed the first of two new DVDs. There are bridle joints in the form of slip joints and a running tenon joint used in the exercise.
As you fit the joints at the end, each has to be square and accurate or the four-quadrant divided design doesn’t go together. The shims are used for a number of tasks such as setting up the depth of cut at a miter box. Again, this is something exaggerated by the camera and not something you even notice when doing the work. I call this bench the “Milkman’s Workbench” because the original version that I copied was owned by a milkman in Denmark. Style that does not sacrifice quality, because you want your beautiful woodworking projects to last. Even the experienced staff members here at Popular Woodworking like to complete these easy wood projects from time to time.
You’ll also learn a few things about hole saw kits, ebonizing wood and how to make a homemade drum sander.
This attractive box for toys or knick-knacks will teach you how to join boards with simple notched and nailed construction.
With this entry bench you’ll learn about panel glueups, curve-cutting and screw joinery. Because we’re all woodworkers here at Popular Woodworking, we generate a huge amount of valuable woodworking information that we cannot possibly cram into the printed magazine. We’ve taken the driver unit and an abrasive disk out of the drill press to show you how they work together.
The surface on either side of the blade must be 90? to the blade, otherwise accuracy is compromised. One of these is what kind of wood surface yields the strongest joint when using wood glues, typically white or yellow glue, but also hide glue. And while I thought I was right, that the best surface is smooth, I thought I’d get to the bottom of the question. Burnishing causes the cellulose to change chemical characteristics and thus not bond to the polyvinyl alcohol portion of the wood glue.  This can be tested by putting a drop of water on the surface of the wood, if it doesn’t soak in, the surface is burnished or sealed and should be sanded until cleaned of the burnishing.
Read a fascinating blog post by executive editor Robert Lang based on an experiment gluing a mortise and tenon joint. Following his retirement, he is now a contributing editor, blogging about what he's doing in his own shop. I guess not, I was hoping to get confirmation from Gluedude, or someone else knowledgeable on this subject.
I have used it on smooth and rough surfaces and have found no real difference in the bonding. Once attached to the saw, you dial-in the angle using a rear-access knob that’s hooked to a gear drive. In my DVD “Cheating at Hand-cut Dovetails” (order a copy here) I share a method of cutting pins and tails on wide panels that employs a jigsaw.
One of my biggest annoyances with my Bosch jigsaw is the inability to maintain the angles between the blade and baseplate. The project for the day was a joinery exercise that walks through nine joints; one is a pocket hole joint and the other eight involve hand tools. Also, you cannot depend on glue to hold things tight – it has to be held by the joinery.
The shims are used for many tasks around the shop, but what makes these  cool is found in the lengths.
What is pertinent to the joinery challenge, is how Ron used a shim to align the pocket screw joint, a real timesaver. Save your money for lumber, supplies and woodshop projects that will be necessary for your next steps in the craft.

So the newsletter and community are both great places for us to share what we know with you. The driver also has two rare earth magnets that lock the abrasive disk in place after the two disks are twisted together. It saved me hundreds of dollars because I didn’t need to buy a bigger and better saw for my space-deprived shop. I secured the plywood to the MDF with screws and trimmed it flush with a pattern bit in my router.
Also, the front edge of the tabletop must be flat and perpendicular to the blade; this is the edge along which the T-square fence rides. This is the portion that rides along the front edge of the tabletop, so it must be flat, straight and perpendicular to the saw blade.
I applied a couple coats of polyurethane to the entire assembly, let it dry for a day or two, then added two coats of wax to create a slick surface.
I am going to study this plan, take a stab at it and then research, research, research until I correct the problems. Rough makes no sense at all, even with a Bessey as tight as a Bessey will go you would see some gaps on truly rough edges.
If the joint is critical, fresh is important in that pollution, mostly in the form of oily particles from car and diesel exhausts, or an oil-burning stove in a shop closed up for the winter can get on the wood and prevent the wet-out, for any glue but for epoxy this can be especially important.
In fact, you should be able to, after all the work is complete, toss the project to another woodworker without it falling apart in mid-air or as it’s caught.
That is my question for the shims what is their use as it looks like the rules you have pictured have the sliding rule as well? Combine the slow speed, power and accuracy of the drill press with the latest in abrasives technology, and you’ve got it made. So I went to the folks who know a lot about this, Franklin International, makers of the Tite-Bond and lots of other adhesives. I have a Saga TC-10 guitar kit, the guitar body has a sanding sealer on it (I think I read somewhere that it is a polyester sanding sealer, but I was not able to re-find where I thought I read it so not 100% certain of that). You can increase the bevel as if the wings are fully up and ready to add thrust for travel, or you can decrease the setting as if the wings are through the thrust. One of the drawbacks to using this technique is that you have to set your jigsaws base to your dovetail angle, and because you have to cut both sides of the pins, you have to find that setting both to the right and left.
That way if you have the shims laid out on your bench, you can more easily find the thickness you need. But either way it has a thick coat of some type of sanding sealer, and I want to glue a veneer on it. With this base, you dial-in the dovetail angle of choice, then cut half of the joint with the saw resting on half the base. So can I glue the veneer directly to the sanding sealer, and if so, do I use wood glue or some other type of glue.
And by the way, the section on Franklin’s web site on woodworking glues is a great resource for woodworkers. As the blades get to speed, the flashing lights (you cannot see them flash) become synched with the strokes to present the best visibility for precise cuts.
An answer will be greatly appreciated, I already ruined one veneer attempting this, I think I used too much glue, I ended up with wavy bubbles in the veneer.
A cabinet rule (Lufkin X46F), when flipped to read the second side, also begins at zero and moves toward 1″.
So I think I used too much glue, but not that I have already messed up one veneer, I want to take extra precautions to make sure I do the next one right.
And when you turn the tool upside down – something woodworkers in Europe do, I’m told – the lights turn off. However, a layout rule (Lufkin X46), when flipped to the back side, is backward in that it begins at the 72″ mark and moves downward. I am very eager to get moving on this so if someone could please give me an answer as soon as possible, it would be greatly appreciated.

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