Glen Huey, currently managing editor for Popular Woodworking Magazine, has earned a well-deserved promotion. Now that may seem like a conflict of interests – AW is, after all, a competitor to Popular Woodworking Magazine. I remember when AW started, Bob was handing out sample issues at a Woodworking show here in New England. The Reader’s Digest years were dark times for AW, so it is really good to see AW in good hands again!
After joining the ranks as senior editor with Popular Woodworking magazine, I was informed that I needed to build a workbench.
Building a Shaker workbench immediately came to mind , Shaker due to the bank of drawers and cupboard storage below the solid-wood top. Knowing that my workbench would not face hard use everyday, I decided I would build a bench that would leave future generations questioning if the workbench was ever really used as a workbench , maybe it was viewed as a piece of furniture. Glen Huey is a former managing editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine, a period furniture maker and author of numerous woodworking books, videos and magazine articles. I liked reading your article in the most recent mag on this bench, and was really glad that Chris could have possibly kicked off a trend of the folks at PWW, in building more benches. I’ve had a bit of time in the shop this week, so I went back to work on the storage boxes that sit inside my yet-to-be-built workbench. After knocking out my dovetails, I laid out and cut the grooves for the sliding drawers I discussed in an earlier (much earlier) blog. It turns out that legs and joinery are not the only furniture-related items to make huge changes.
In the photo at right you can see the parts that make up the hardware found on some of the pieces of W&M furniture, cotter pins and all. Installation of the Queen Anne hardware also begins with holes drilled through the drawer front. Is there a photo available showing the above treatment of the cotter pins on the interior of the drawer?
I’ve added a photo showing the installed cotter pins, and a link to a short video of Chris Schwarz installing similar cotter-pin-like hardware. I didn`t readily see a pic of the pins in place for a plate mount with 2 holes, but below is a link to a single mount on a pendant. Both of the circle-cutting tools work, however there are two reasons that I chose the Lie-Nielsen cutter. Also, thanks for providing the details on the differences between your chest versus the original, very interesting. I’m sorry to say that switching cutter blades between the two radius cutters is not a possibility. You’ve read a number of posts on this blog about our upcoming book based on furniture, photos and information found at the Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts (MESDA) and in Old Salem. For more information on advanced dovetailing, pick up a copy of “Dovetail Mastery” by Charles Bender. If it is fully blind, how could you tell this joinery method was was used on the original period piece? Fridays are fun, but it’s Saturday at a woodworking event – such as this weekend’s Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event held at the offices of Popular Woodworking Magazine – when you can get a better glimpse into the future of woodworking. When working on the lowboy discovered in the back room at the Connecticut Historical Society, I set up to drill a couple of holes in the front lower rail. In that build, as I clamped together the front, my clamp pressure snapped the highly cutout apron. For 100 different methods of work to make the process of woodworking easier, grab a copy of Marc Adams Technical Technique Video Series. If you don’t have a drill press, use a dowel jig to drill a perpendicular hole in the block. Its also how you make drill stops for hand held drills, just cut the blank to length so the drill can be 1) mounted securely in the chuck and 2) just enough drill sticks out to make the hole deep enough. I learnt this from my grandfather, who started his working life making wooden boxes around 1900. This good tip also works great for angled holes such as a wall mounted coat or tool rack that is longer than the depth of your drill press..
Along the way, Steve plans to document the work in a series of short videos that explain just what has to be done to bring this bad boy back to life. Brian, we’ve done a number of articles over the years on restoring hand tools as you suggest.
Actually this old Delta saw looks a lot like the old Wadkin Bursgreen table saws from England. Please consider extending this idea to the refurbishment of hand tools (chisels, hand planes, drawknives, saws, etc.).
If you follow my woodworking habits, you are well aware that I enjoy using my routers with pattern bits chucked in the collet.
If I had a pattern bit, I could clamp a straightedge at my layout line then proceed to routing the dado in just the right location. First, attach the ?” fence piece to the ?” plywood allowing just a fuzz of the fence to stick out past the plywood.
Next, chuck your bit into the router then trim the plywood to width as you run the base of the router against the fence. To use the jig, align the edge to your layout line, add a clamp (one clamp does the trick if you’re jig is shorter) then run the router base along the fence. Like you said Glen, simple & cheap enough to make a few for different, but frequently made cuts. 2.) Mark one edge of the router base and only use that edge to cut the jig and perform the dadoing. 4.) You should really nail AND glue the fence to the jig base lest the fence will begin to wiggle after some use. 6.) Setting the jig up for use with a plunge router base makes creating stopped dados much easier.


But we’re embracing it as an opportunity for F+W to offer two excellent woodworking magazines, each with a unique focus and distinct editorial voice. But I’ll absolutely miss his contributions to PWM, both as a writer and as managing editor.
In addition to the office and the shop, the two magazines will share a managing editor – a role that will be strictly editorial and operations. It was shocking and shameful how fast AW declined with the change of ownership of Rodale Press. Now that this has occurred, you guys need to bring back Woodwork magazine to a bi-monthly publication (not just a once per year special issue).
It seems the bench that was in the shop upon my arrival was taken to its original home, so that left me with a slab of old door bridged across two rolling carts. Of course, I didn’t need anything near the 12- or 13-foot workbenches from either the Hancock or Mt.
I need a bench that will hold my panels while I lay out and cut dovetails, provide a clamping area as I use the router, and provide a large flat surface to assemble pieces (if not just a vast landscape for storing or hiding the tools I’ve used throughout the day). It has to be because we need to shoot the opening photograph for the magazine article on Tuesday of next week.
Who knows, maybe the slackers over at PWW will follow suite and the readers will see more benches. But if you are looking to veneer your own panels, or you need a stable plywood for jigs and other shop-made doodads, I suggest an nice sheet of BBP. Myself, and a friend, watched it do all kinds of contortions with the humidity outside; it really moves around. I feel like in recent years it’s been harder to find BBP, but worth the extra hunting around. You begin by drilling your holes, then slip in the pins with the bail inserted into their heads. This design is what I’m used to using as a period furniture maker working in the Queen Anne and Chippendale periods. But from there, the posts are slid in and a nut is thumbed on – a better installation is to countersink an appropriate hole in the back face of the drawer, then cut the post so it does not extend beyond the inside edge of the drawer front when assembled.
I think I left the wires a bit long in this installation, but you get the idea as to how these pins are installed. There is an inlay-related tools that I find extremely useful that come from North of the border. The LN cutter has two holes in each blade, whereas the Veritas blade uses a slotted opening for a center screw to pass.
I’m working on drawings of a few of the pieces and have come across a second use of a dovetail joint that is different, something not often seen in the furniture I study on a regular basis. Yes, I have seen full-blind dovetails before – they are generally used, and most often associated with, corners that are mitered, as in feet. If you follow this line of thought when making full-blind lap dovetails, especially when used to join a desk side and top, you easily see the sawn lines – and that’s not appealing. The top of the desk was held firm (for 200 plus years) and there are no signs of any other joinery method, or nails. You may see new tools on display for the first time, which tools are getting the most attention or be shown a new technique that could open doors for many woodworkers. This youngster, after his younger brother had his turn,  jumped aboard the shaving horse to give a spokeshave a go as he shaved a bit on a Windsor chair back spindle – he handled the tool like a professional. The younger of the two guys jumped on a second shaving horse and went to work without a spokeshave – he rode that horse like it was the home stretch at the Kentucky Derby.
Instead of clamping a fence in position at my drill press, I grabbed a small block to use as a guide.
As you may have guessed, it was a mad scramble to get things right before problems set in (glue dried). Carefully drill through the block – I have a drill press so I used it, but if you’re sans a press, use a square and check from all angles as you slowly drill. You can adjust the hole depth within a small range depending on how deep you put the drill into the chuck. I recently was given a Unisaw in exchange for replacing some windows for one of my customers. And also that the entire machine is generally made out of heavier parts which usually makes it more stable. It was manufactured in 1943 and sold by Star Manufacturing(?) in Seattle during the second world war. I gave them the parts number out of the owners manual and they thought that I was out of my mind, as they do not have any parts list with the old numbers. Another option is to clamp a fence at the appropriate offset to the layout line so I could run the base of the router against the fence and cut the dado where needed.
I realize this jig might be old hat if you’re deep into woodworking, but if it’s a new idea, you should give it a try. This piece has to be squared to the fence (that’s why you leave a small amount of the fence beyond the plywood). If you choose to back up during the cut – something I would not recommend – it’s easy to allow the base to pull from the jig fence. We’ll be looking for an excellent wordsmith – someone with proven editing and copy editing chops, and with a strong enough personality to keep us all in line. Woodwork was the coolest, quirkiest woodworking magazine – I loved the profiles of current woodworkers, the focus on why to and less on how to, and the fact that it was not afraid to show strong contemporary designs (great furniture design did not stop with Arts and Crafts a century ago).
Lebanon Shaker villages, but I like the look and feel of Shaker craftsmanship and those workbenches have always been something I wanted to build. I turned to my fondness for tiger maple (just the idea of using this hardwood for a workbench makes most woodworkers shake their collective head) and to achieve the Shaker feel, I decided paint was the answer so poplar provided the substrate.
I have the beaded poplar panels set in the sides and across the back waiting for paint, after which a tiger maple moulding will hold the panels in position.
And I still have to install the hardware, paint the poplar and add apply the finish on the tiger maple.


After all, every woodworker must have a bench to do any work, even if it’s a set of saw horses with a board over the top. Before I had picked up a piece of Baltic birch plywood (BBP) from a local supplier, I checked my local home-center store for a usable plywood. Also, there are no voids in the layers that could cause defects or lessen its structural integrity. Dovetails moved from clunky, chunky and evenly sized tails and pins to a more refined design as we clawed our way into the Queen Anne period  – pins became thinner while tails grew wide.
The pins are adjusted for length, then the ends are bent at a 90° angle before being driven into holes drilled into the back face of the drawer front. This design stayed part of everyday use throughout the nearly 60 years that encompass the two periods in American history (approximately 1730-1790). If you plan to do inlay work, I am a fan of, and would highly suggest that you pick up, a Veritas Groove Cutter (05K12.13) (Shown below). Also, the LN blade does not fit over the keeper pin that Veritas uses to keep its blade from slipping.
It appears as a rabbeted joint, but it’s not (there is no holding power with a rabbet and this area requires holding power). It’s made using stop cuts as with the pin board, and you need to have a lap (rabbet) at the end of your board. To transfer the pin board layout to the tail board, simply locate the inside face of the pin board to your scribe line on the tail board then pencil or knife the layout onto the tail board. I suppose the desk top could have been doweled to the side, but that seems highly unlikely given the quality of the work elsewhere on the desk. Dad had to provide a few pointers, but she was shaving – the spindle, that is – in no time at all.
Why I drilled the holes for the two drop finials this early in the game is to head off a problem I had as I assembled the Queen Anne Dressing Table in the June 2010 issue (#183).
With the block ready, line up the tip of your bit with your layout mark (I simply Xd across my stock), hold the block firmly against the workpiece then drill down square and straight.
I use these all the time, they are simple to make (as demonstrated below) and they are so cheap you can make a separate jig for each different bit you use.
I’ve made these up to 15″ in length, but generally I build them to match the groove length. This results in the exact cut line of this particular router and bit combination – that’s why it’s important to make a jig with each new setup. To avoid this mishap, run fully to your stopping point then turn off the router and allow it to come to a complete stop before lifting the tool.
But after seeing this tip published somewhere, I showed it to him and he was delighted to see that it made our dados more accurate and considerably increased our efficiency. Later, I brought in a couple inexpensive benches for a bit of teaching and discovered the concept of a workbench with vises.
And, the cupboard area needs to be completed; I guess designed and completed would be more apropos.The drawers look good, right? Granted they’re not holding the main carcass of the bench together and only the drawer frames, but I would think they would well, shake around a lot…, maybe that is shaker style! The pulls have cotter pins to grip the bails instead of posts and nuts to capture the bail ends (the design we are more accustomed to using). As I installed the pulls on the lowboy, there were a couple of times when the pins bent so easily that I thought I may have found the breaking point far too early. On a Lie-Nielsen cutter, the pivot point is taller and has a smaller diameter than found on the Veritas cutter. This tool is great for excavating scratched grooves that are not quite deep enough – that’s how I used the groove cutter. Oddly enough, both uses have been found on desks where the desk top attaches to the case sides. The work is a bit more time consuming, but here’s the best part – when the joint is together you cannot see if the joinery is tight and well-fit or terribly off – as long as the joined pieces stay put. You mentioned in the video that by looking up the serial number you were able to establish when the saw was made. If you get way long, you’ll need to clamp the far side as well, but that’s getting too far ahead. I made many sizes of them, up to 4 feet long for the router and some up to 12 feet long for the circular saw.
Cotter pins are fine on some hardware such as tear-drop pulls, but it’s not something you would expect when plates and bails are part of the installation.
His pin legs are wider than those found on period reproduction hardware, the installation is nearly identical. Or, if you are so anti-cord that you do not own a router, a groove cutter allows you to scratch in a straight line if you guide your cut with a straightedge.
I should note that our method was to rabbet joint all carcass parts and dado all shelves as well as dadoing all faceframes to fit the carcass so each cabinet had lots of dado work. I have the balance of the drawer materials ready to go, so the only obstacle to completion is the dovetails and drawer bottoms.
The extra two layers in the BBP increase stability (less warp), provide an edge that reacts more like hardwood, and it’s my opinion that Baltic birch plywood is a more consistent thickness across the piece.
The only way to confirm the connection would be to dismantle the desk, or possibly to have it x-rayed. What’s remarkable about the old Unisaw is how similar it is to those built just before the all new model came out. By the way, mine is in working condition but cranking up the blade and using the tilt crank require major effort so I really look forward to your advice on cleaning out 60+ years of sawdust and gunk from the inner mechanisms.



Barn Wood Home Projects
Wall Shelf With Hooks Plans
Porch Swing Construction Plans


Comments

  1. AnGeL_BoY

    His retirement in Spring 2009 looming.

    01.12.2014

  2. RamaniLi_QaQaS

    Formidable challenge as a result of it will actually.

    01.12.2014

  3. ETISH

    Wooden untangling plans, you are able to have popular woodworking glen huey hope chest it taped foundational courses, we now have a whole series.

    01.12.2014

  4. Azeri_Sahmar

    Actually useful for all but the skilled woodworker, and.

    01.12.2014

  5. Vuqar

    Sand and measure out?a part.

    01.12.2014

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