The log cabin home plans featured here showcase a spectacular hunting lodge in South Carolina.
From the moment you approach the front entry,  you realize this is no ordi-nary log home. Massive cypress tree trunks also support the porch roofing on the struc-ture, as shown in the image below. TheA  study A alsoA  boasts an abundance of handcrafted detailing in both its design and decor. An arched stone fireplace surround houses a wood stove that is vented through a large stone chimney. An upper level loft overlooks the open kitchen and living area below, which features a soaring cathedral ceiling to make it feel larger than it actually is. The rustic fireplace design pictured at right is crafted from stones of varying sizes and predominately rectangular shapes. Once again, it features an open floor plan with a soaring cathedral ceiling and upper level loft. Small log cabin floor plans embraced by walls of wood, and steeply pitched roof lines punctuated by picturesque dormers and chimneys, are among the most enchanting designs ever conceived by man.
The cozy cabin pictured below is perfect as A a A summer A retreat, A weekend getaway, or a great retirement cottage. We wanted to share the Shasta Cabins with everyone, some of you have them in your plan books and some of you may have seen them online but I wanted to make sure everyone on the e-mail list has a chance to see the micro-side of Gravitas.
Log-cabin style House Plans, Home Plans, with Log-cabin style home plans and Log-cabin Home Plans.
With over 100 stock log home floor plans and log cabin floor plans to choose from, Rocky Mountain Log Homes will have something for every enthusiast.
Mankind's preference for living in structures made of natural timbers is longstanding and well documented.
Opinions about log selection and proper cutting season vary with the individual craftsman and the building locale.
The best seasoning method is to air-dry the logs for one to two years-the longer the better. Many pioneer cabins were built without foundations because they were constructed in haste or meant to be temporary shelter. If you don't want a full basement, you must excavate at least below the frost line, install footings and construct a wall up to 20 in.

In a similar manner, hew or cut flat the top of the joists and install them between the girder and sill logs so they are flush with the top of the girder.
Many different types of notches can be used to join the logs, but a good choice for the beginning log builder is the technique shown here: the scribe, fit, round-notch method.
Although this method is slower than others, the corner joints are self-draining-water running down the outside of the house hits the log tops and runs off, instead of being trapped in the notch.
As you move up the walls, alternate each successive log so that their smaller, tapered ends are not all on one end of the wall. Of course, if your cabin is larger than the one shown here, you'll have several interior partitions. The roof on the cabin shown is a combination of purlin and rafter construction to give an idea of what's involved with both. Finally, pre-assemble all window and door jambs, install them in the openings, and add the windows and doors.
This article is from a Popular Mechanics issue - December, 1983 - and is used without their knowledge or consent.
The property will have a main mess hall within walking distance, that is the reason for no kitchenettes.
One story from the rich folklore of log building tells how a Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights insisted, around the year 1500, that a wood structure be built onto his stonecastle to provide a homier place to live.
But when all these influences were transplanted to the New World, the Scandinavian style of round logs with bottom-cut corner notches prevailed. In general, just about any type of log can be used, as long as it's relatively straight, is around 8 to 10 in.
The cooler temperatures make for slower drying time, which reduces log checking, cracking and splitting. Logs should be stacked off the ground with stickers-smaller diameter logs-placed between the courses.
First, roll the log into position and sight along its length to make sure any crown is pointing to the outside of the wall. Scribe the shape of the lower, log onto the uncut log using compass dividers with a pencil or marking crayon inserted in one leg. These can either be made with logs notched into the outside walls or with framed walls later on.
Many log structures built in the same period still stand in Scandinavia, Central Europe and the Balkans.

Stone foundations traditional, but block and concrete walls are as good, or better, and they require less work. Also, a V-shaped groove is cut down the length of each log bottom so the entire length can sit flush on the log below.
The joints between courses do not need chinkirtg, so you can avoid one of the most chronic maintenance problems of log homes: repairing cracked chinking. Rough-cut the notch with a chain saw, then finish it with a shallowsweep, long-handled gouge.
Then scribe the full length of the underside of the log running the blank leg of the dividers along the top of the lower log.
This tool yields a concave groove that is tighter and more attractive at the exposed log ends. This is called "thumping" and it will leave compression marks on the parts of the log that still need trimming.
Notching the logs is preferred because it yields the same interior finish on all walls and strengthens the structure. The purlins are set into notches cut in the gable ends; the rafters are notched into the plate log and ridge log. Conifers such as pine, fir, spruce and tamarack are preferred because these softwoods are workable, durable and relatively lightweight. You should also partially peel off the bark using a draw knife before the logs are stacked. Make any necessary adjustments, then pack fiberglass insulation into the groove and roll the log into place.
The various plan layouts could accommodate bunk style lodging, or more private double bedrooms. Hardwoods, particularly oak can also be used, though their sapwood is highly susceptible to infestation by borers and fungus. Then bore holes in the sill logs toaccommodate the anchor bolts and install sill sealer or a termite shield according to the local building code.

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