You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. A straight staircase is the most common design which we encounter and Blueprint Joinery offers both softwood straight staircases and oak straight staircases. If you're looking to buy the handrails, spindles and newel posts for your staircase we can also offer our staircases complete with handrails, spindles and newel posts.
We also offer made to measure Staircases in partnership with our sister company Two Twenty. Modern or classical , with unusual designs or very simple , we create staircases to suit any decor including imaginative curved and grand sweeping staircases. Our designers and craftsmen have constructed and fitted stairs for the most extraordinary of spaces, including grand staircases and those which follow the walls of Oast houses. All of our staircases are bespoke one-offs, built to last for generations – but we can also deliver for multiple orders. Through innovative design and full height glazing the Heron Joinery Bi Folding doors bring the outside, inside, whilst enhancing the flow of natural light entering the home with a clear 90% unobstructed view, as the door leafs fold back on each other. Bi-folding doors are available in a variety of combinations with a variable located main opening access sash, along with 2, 3, 4 and 5 folding sashes, or alternately access can be gained via the folding sashes. The Heron Joinery Bi-folding door is ideal for new build and home extensions, including conservatories.
Recently there has been a lot of buzz in the woodworking community about the new Festool Domino joinery system.
The joints made with the loose tenon stock are much stronger than those made with biscuits.
The only other components of the jig are lateral stops on the top that limit the travel of the router. I mark the Stile by striking a line indicating the center of the mortise and I align that point with the center line on the jig. Before you can cut a mortise with the jig you need to set the location of the router bit and then set the stops. To position the bit, I put the edge guide on the router and position it to ride against the back of the jig.

To set the stops I align the edge of the bit with the marks on the work piece that indicate the extent of the mortise.
Of course, this routing operation is the same for the Rails as it is for Stiles except for the orientation of the work piece. Once the matching mortises are cut into the two work pieces, the loose tenon is inserted and the pieces are dry-fitted. As long as I am diligent about referencing the appropriate sides of the work pieces against the jig, I have very little sanding or scraping to do to level the completed joint. In the comments, there were a couple of questions regarding the routing of the rail with the jig. As you can see the jig component with the toggle clamp is rotated to be in a vertical position.
Sorry for the confusion, I did not take a picture of the rail in the jig while routing the mortise in it. Mark, I like your idea and would enjoy seeing a picture of how you adjust the jig to route a rail. With regard to the Domino, I think that the thing that it gives is flexibility – you can bring a fairly portable tool to the work rather than bringing the work to the tool.
Having said all of this, I still use a mix of loose tenon and traditional mortise and tenon joinery in my work. One small point: in the photo showing the setup for mortising the rail end, it appears unlikely that the sliding clamp has marginal adjustment range to align the mortise center with the line. The other way that would work well is to build up a horizontal router table that holds the router with the bit in a horizontal fashion and you ride the piece on a table feeding it into the bit in small increments. Thanks again for a great and detailed post, now I’m off to look at the rest of your site! I had been considering making a jig to use router template guides, but had not gotten all the details worked out. I’m just, at the age of 70, trying to upgrade from crude woodwork to higher class work and getting tools and jigs sorted out. Seems as if this might be a good way to join cabinet tops to sides, when using solid lumber.

Their knowledge and expertise combined with effective and professional service ensured a good working relationship during the contract period and an excellent end product.
Whilst providing a popular choice for the replacement of existing timber, plastic or aluminium French and Patios doors. Energy saving, low maintenance and friendly to the environment our doors and windows are made to last.
Whether you’re a private homeowner looking for beauty and warmth or an architect specialising in conservation, we can tailor each product to meet your needs.
The system that I use involves a basic plunge router, an edge guide for the router, an upcut spiral mortising bit and a shop made jig. On each side I slide the stops against the edge guide bars and tighten the hardware to secure the stops. I usually make a batch of tenon stock all at once in long sections so that individual tenons can easily be cut off to the desired length.
After reading this, I think I am going to make the leap and purchase – love the site!
I have been looking for a way around not buying an expensive Domino and this jig is such a great idea. Just pick up the phone; our welcoming customer representatives are waiting to hear from you. I am also not sure you get out of loose tenon joinery that you don’t get with regular mortise and tenon.
I have been looking at the festool as a joint purchase with my Dad, but will definitely give this a go first! Jessem also create very nice doweling jig that I think its comparable or better than DowelMax in terms of quality, ease of use and price. However, if you are looking for loose tenon joinery on a budget, you should realize that there are alternatives.

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