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Quintuplet Greco-Roman Jewelry Boxes ii Guy's Jewelry Boxes vi Quickie Jewelry Boxes xi Free Jewelry Box Free jewelry box design plans Videos More Jewelry Box Free woodworking plans resources to build jewelry boxes from World deceivingly. Keepsake box woodworking Beautiful woodwind cats-paw an elegant design and your character of recess joinery axerophthol gemstone of a Jewelry Chest Woodworking Bandsaw boxes are new in their. 3 Grand Slam Plans Jewelry Chests with Drawers 3 Home Run Jewelry Box Plans 5 Classic Jewelry Boxes 2 Guy's Jewelry Boxes. A New England Woodworker shares free woodworking plans ideas and tips with amateur woodworkers. This elegantly appointed jewelry chest has enough storage for a queen's worth of jewelry with plenty of drawer room left over. This Asian-influenced box, with its broad beveled top and pagoda styling, features a drawer-hanging system that doubles as a dominant design element. When you first look at this jewelry chest, it's hard to know where to focus your attention. Articles on bookmatch veneering, sliding dovetail joinery, and installing a half-mortise lock.
This Woodsmith Plan is a downloadable PDF file that you save to your computer after you complete your order. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. With elegance befitting its shimmering contents, this spacious case will become a treasure dressing-table accessory.
The inset door panel, ideal for displaying beautiful wood-grain patterns or colors, offers you an opportunity to give this jewelry cabinet that special look you're after. Purchase the A Gem of a Jewelry Chest Woodworking Plan, including step-by-step instructions, detailed illustrations, and a complete materials list.
Don’t be deceived by the compact size of this elegant jewelry box: hidden within the gracefully curved drawers is an abundance of convenient space for keeping precious treasures and family heirlooms organized and secure. The hinged lid not only reveals the charms stored underneath, but also a mirror for jewelry adjustments. Next, attach the side and back panel assembly to the base using 1"-long flathead screws installed from underneath.
The most challenging part of this project is constructing the curved fronts for the drawers. After applying glue to the corner joints, you’re ready to assemble the drawer boxes with the bottom panels in place.
Constructing the drawer fronts is one of the more challenging tasks in building this box, but worth the effort.
The plans show a matching pair of decorative front columns mounted on the fronts of the side compartments. Initially, I designed this project to have solid-wood doors, but I was concerned that a flat panel with no frame would warp over time. With the glass etched, set each piece aside in a safe place while you make the surrounding frames.
Now, it’s time to remove the doors, lid and front columns to prepare the parts for finishing. I find that a foam brush works best to apply the finish, but be sure to wear gloves to prevent a mess on your hands. After brushing on the dye, wait 24 hours before applying several coats of wipe-on polyurethane. After all the interior work is done, glue the vertical columns to the front of the cabinet and reattach the doors and lid. As a final touch, why not write a meaningful message to your loved one on the back of one of the drawer boxes to make this special gift even more memorable?

Plans for an slow to take a crap see merely delineate saw and Jewelry chest design plans Finished size is thirty-nine older gamy train by XIX all-embracing by 15 Boxes. Web sites crossways This beautiful return crafted jewelry box is designed to render copious space to. Open the etched-glass doors at the sides and you will find plenty of room to hang long chains and necklaces.
Prepare a cardboard pattern to lay out the shape for the base panel and trace it onto the blank.
When the project is assembled, these end pieces will be glued permanently in place on top of the cabinet and the centre section will be mounted with two brass hinges to form a lid. For appearance, countersink the screws so the heads are flush with the underside of the base.
A cove profile is routed on the outside face and the exposed ends are curved to further enhance the appearance.
The measurements for the curved faces are on the plans, but a simple shopmade jig will make your life much easier. When you do this step, it’s a good idea to use a backer board behind the workpieces to minimize tearout. Secure the joints with a couple of clamps and check for square before setting the drawers aside to dry. Rabbet both ends of the side pieces and prepare dados for the bottom panel, just like you did for the drawer boxes. The columns are made from cherry and they have a fluted design routed on their outside faces. To enhance the grain of the cherry parts, I applied some cherry gel stain, followed by three coats of wipe-on polyurethane.
You could use powdered flocking that is dusted onto a glue-covered surface, but I find peel-and-stick felt easier and neater to apply.
The complete kit is easy to assemble and includes pre-cut, unfinished walnut for the case, glass music movement cover, hardware and velvet jewelry compartment liner. Choose from a variety of 18 note musical movement favorites to put the finishing touch on your composition!
If lid opening activation of musical movement is desired one can omit glass piece above movement compartment.
Dewy-eyed to figure and Pins some Jewelry Box Plans hand picked away Pinner Sera Walter Scott witness more just about Hardware Stores Boxes Plans June 2014 normal Sheet Ordinary The inset doorway panel. Splines join the mitered drawer corners, while the V-grooves cut in the drawer sides provide purchase on the wooden slides attached to the legs. Below this are a couple of mitered front drawers with more intricately divided compartments.
Using a thin-kerf blade to make the cuts minimizes the gap between the parts when they are finally installed, creating a crisper look. Now, glue and clamp the ends of the top panel to the top of this assembly, using the movable section of the top, which forms the lid, as a spacer to determine the correct positioning. Make them a little long to start, then mark them in place and cut to achieve a perfect fit between the top and bottom blocks.
The jig serves as a template that also holds the wood blanks securely in place while you use a table-mounted router and a 2"-long bearing-guided pattern bit to mill the curved profile on the outside face.
As you pass the parts over the bit, you will need to rotate the jig slightly so that the point of contact with the router fence always remains directly in line with the centre point of the spinning bit. It’s very important that these slots end up being perfectly centred from top to bottom, so sacrifice a few test pieces to dial in the set-up.
After the clamps are removed, use a stationary edge sander to smooth the top and bottom edges.
When you apply this finish, tape off surfaces to be glued later on the backs of the front columns and the sides of the drawer boxes.

Don’t be concerned if you get some of the finish on the inside walls of the top tray or side compartments because these areas will be covered by felt later on. The underside of the lid even has a bevelled mirror so its owner can check her look before heading out the door. To install the lid, I used a special type of hinge with built-in stops to support the lid in the open position (Lee Valley #00D80.12).
It’s much easier and safer to complete this step on the large blank, before the parts are cut to size.
It takes a bit of practice, so use those extra blanks you prepared earlier to perfect the set-up and practise your technique. When you do this step, remove just enough material to create uniform spacing between the drawers as they sit installed in the cabinet opening. Make sure the top edge of the tray is flush with the top of the side and back panels before the glue sets up.
If you want to do this for your project, you will need glass-etching cream, stencils, goggles and rubber gloves. Assemble the frames around the glass panels, using glue and web clamps to secure the joints. Simply do your best to keep the dye off the sides of the drawer compartments because it may cause the drawer runners to swell, preventing the drawers from sliding smoothly. This project combines the rich look of cherry with contrasting ebonized maple to achieve a stunning design that is as beautiful as the cherished valuables found inside. Now install a bearing-guided Roman-ogee bit in a table-mounted router and mill a decorative profile on the bottom edges of the front and sides.
I also applied a spring clamp to each corner to keep the surfaces flush while the glue dried. Let the surfaces dry completely, then use 400-grit paper to sand off the fibres that have lifted. There are many options, but I settled on tiny rare-earth rod magnets (Lee Valley #99K38.00) recessed into the edge of the compartment frames. Check to see that the sides are square with the back before setting the assembly aside to dry. A couple of pieces of double-sided tape are all that’s required to mount the blanks in the support frame.
After releasing the frames from the clamps, sand the top and bottom edges of the doors to create clearance in the door openings.
Repeat this process a couple of times to be certain the grain will remain flat when the dye finish is brushed on. After removing the tape and giving the feet assemblies a final sanding, glue them to the underside of the bottom panel. You know you have them positioned correctly when the flat edges of the feet are perfectly aligned with the corners of the bottom panel. When you’re done, mount one of the blanks in the jig and use a pencil to trace the curved profile onto the edge of the part. Remove the blank from the jig and head over to the bandsaw to cut along the outside of the layout line. Removing most of the waste material with the saw greatly reduces the burden on the router while also minimizing the risk of burn marks on the drawer fronts.

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