Whilst in Japan I used very many saws and chisels all of which were of the finest quality and not to be confused with the cheap Japanese tools available in the UK. Saw sharpening is quite complex so is generally left to a specialist saw sharpener but these saws do cut very well indeed.
In this site where you can know about wood,how to style projects, the particular images, designs, designs, elements list and guides on how to put create them & many more service about wood. Imarusan and his woodworking friends have very kindly scoured Japanese auctions for me to collect these beautiful tools. Edited to add a link to my mate Nigel’s blog, he came out and had a play with the axes and adzes and took this vid of me having a quick play with a chouna.
Hi Robin,Very nice axes, you can see they have been used well for decades and they look fit for another hundred years.I was wondering about the laced rope protection for the axe that you can just see on picture 9 and 11.
I reckon it is the other way around - a cheap Japanese chisel will do as well as a decent (expensive) Western chisel, that is, one that costs at least twice as much as the Japanese chisel. The result was a very smooth flat face to the bottom of the dado and I can see that I will enjoy using this for dovetails on my next project. I suspect that the previous owner of this chisel did not understand the construction rationale of a Japanese chisel. As you know Japanese chisels are laminated from layers of very hard steel and either a softer steel or iron. As long as there is sufficient hard steel backing to create an edge, the softer backing steel will support this, and all is well. In the usual life of a Japanese chisel, the back is constantly being honed back, firstly to make the hollow recede and secondly to smooth the rear of the sharp end.
There is another possibility which I mentioned in my post on 21st March which is the elimination of rounding close to the edge as a resulting from the chisel being tilted towards the edge when being ground during the production process. The perfect way to keep Japanese saws protected when not in use, these canvas rolls are available in two lengths with the ability to hold five saws.

I found it quite shocking that folk would pay ?150 for a single chisel and an honour to be given a set of a dozen such chisels to work with. Most carpenters kept their saws in a leather roll and they typically had 5 or 6 different saws some for ripping, some for cross cut, some for cutting the grooves for sliding doors, some for finer work and some for coarser. We found it was not as fast as the European pitsaw but when you took into account the time saved by only one man working it and not having to raise the beam onto trestles it was an attractive proposition.
Sadly most of the tools were way out of my budget but I did buy some top quality waterstones which are much cheaper than in the UK. I have met Japanese turners in the UK and Germany and seen their tools as well as seen various presentations.
I hope to share some of them with the European carpenters that came to Japan with me and also am considering running a short course where folk could come and try them out and learn the basics of Japanese hewing. The back of the blade - where the hollow lies - is the hard steel used for the cutting edge. The reason it is there is, as again I am sure you know, to reduce the amount of very hard steel so as to facilitate easier flattening of the back and honing of the back of the edge. I discounted it as I have never come across a Japanese chisel that was treated that way in production. The small rolls are ideally sized to hold the compact style Japanese saws and the large rolls are designed for the full sized saws. I think nothing of spending ?700 on a new chainsaw for my work though in the knowledge that it will probably last 5 years.
The saw we know in the west as a typical Japanese saw is the ryoba noku pictured top, a double edged saw with ripping teeth one side, cross cut the other side and a long bamboo handle which is pulled to the side of the body. It could be used vertically as seen here or horizontally to cut boards from a big log lying on the ground. They use hooks remarkably similar to mine, forge them themselves and sharpen on waterstones.

I've tried it a bit (wrapping cloth around the handle tang) but have had no luck once the teeth got down in the kerf, it just binds up completely. I suspect that the owner did not want a hollow (perhaps thinking that it might affect registration when paring).
Of course I am not in a position to be an authority here since I do not sell tools, but I take into account several years without such a report on various forums. Canvas dividers in the rolls keep the blades apart and prevents them from contacting and potentially damaging each other in storage.
A good set of chisels will last a lifetime and having paid that sort of money for them they do look after them. Woven from natural jute, the canvas is tough, hardwearing and will not snag on the saws' teeth. Every afternoon at the end of work all tools are cleaned and put away carefully and they are kept razor sharp. I assume a proper handle would help, but wouldn't expect it to make that much difference. Closed, the small rolls measure 440mm x 150mm and the large rolls have a closed dimension of 360mm x 155mm. If you look at the picture above you will see above the saw one chisel which has been used and ground so many times both handle and chisel are now only an inch long, I have no doubt that chisel has done ?150 worth of work.

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  1. Eminem500

    Been building bat homes in preparation for Earth Day christmas.


  2. nafiq

    You are a beginner or a grasp woodworker there.


  3. isyankar

    Any purpose why you can't some great band noticed.


  4. TeNHa_OGLAN

    The fun now without blowing by way of the include a full row.