A quilt rack is an ideal way to display your own quilt creations, or your beautiful heirlooms that have been passed on by your grandmother.
The same multi-factor can be used to determine the enlargements for the other shapes C & E. Trace the pattern enlargements onto poster board or Mylar and cut out the patterns with a pair of scissors. If stain is desired, apply with a brush and allow to penetrate for approximately 10 minutes, and then remove with a clean rag. If paint is desired instead of a stain and clear finish, match the color of the wood dough to the wood color. The stool can be made of short scrap pieces of mahogany (or your wood of choice) or from a single board 10 in. It turned out pretty nice and I definitely improved by chiseling (and sharpening) skills as a result. SBMathias writes: I made up this handsome stool, but using oak salvaged from shipping pallets. While the glue is drying, create a paper template with the pattern you’d like to use on the housing sides.
With the housing sides cut to the correct size and shape, lightly sand and apply a finish to these thin parts.
To form the peak, start by gluing the walnut accent to the top of the cap, ensuring that it’s centred.
Apply a bead of glue to the recess around the perimeter of the base and the rabbets in the housing sides.
It provides the perfect way to showcase quilts and bedspreads without adding stress to the fabric. Three marks should be placed approximately 6" from the bottom, near the middle, and at the top.
Angled mortise-and-tenon construction makes this simple project a little trickier because your joints need to be dead-on.


I live in Poland a country with nice forests but as a hobby woodworker I can only buy pine or plywood (restricted logging). I ended up making strips, and having machine-cut tenons, with appropriate gaps in the strips becoming the mortises. To reflect candlelight better, I used bright-coloured maple veener to line the inside of the housing and copper for the underside of the cap. To achieve this effect, I created my own plywood by stacking two plies of walnut veneer on top of one layer of maple. Once you have the pattern cut on the four housing sides, remove two of them from the stack, then cut out the vent holes at the top. While this project is designed for use outdoors, it isn’t likely to see much inclement weather during the summer months. Next, use a saw to cut off the bulk of the waste before refining the surface with a block plane. Cut out this area to allow the candle holder to pass through easily, then turn the candle holder by 45? and trace around it once again. Start assembly by inserting the two rabbeted sides into the base first, followed by the other two sides, using elastic bands to clamp the assembly together. With the thin material you need for this lantern, the craft-supply store is likely your best bet.
This stylish Padauk quilt rack will enhance any room that it is displayed in, and will add to that special country charm you strive to achieve. When using hard woods pre-drill holes inside the marked areas to aide in cutting the mortises.
If your candle has a diameter greater than mine, you’ll need to increase the lantern dimensions accordingly. As always with plywood, the grain direction of each ply needs to run perpendicularly to neighbouring plies. However, it will get its fair share of sunshine, so choose a finish that has UV inhibitors.


Pre-finishing before assembly prevents glue stains and makes any dried squeeze-out easy to remove. The candle can heat up the inside of the lantern, even with the air holes; if you leave the bare wood on the roof, it could scorch and leave burn marks. It has just four parts (two of them identical), and only one type of joint to practice and perfect.
Glass panes line the decorated housing surrounding the candle to prevent the wind from extinguishing the flame.
Stack the assembly between two flat sheets of MDF, then apply weatherproof glue, cauls and a lot of clamps. This small joint is best cut using a marking gauge to mark the width, followed by a router plane, shoulder plane or chisel to shave off the thin maple ply carefully.
Finally, flatten the top of the peak with a large Forstner bit to allow the finial to sit flat, then bore a hole matching the inside diameter of the finial to vent air.
Don’t worry if the groove you cut is a little wider than your plywood-just use a gap-filling glue such as epoxy when assembling the joint. To create clearance for your fingers when inserting the candle, the bottom of the candle holder must be narrowed. It's a manageable project for a novice, but the angled through-tenons will offer a challenge to any level of woodworker.
Clean the glass, then run a thin bead of silicone along the inside of the plywood and press the glass in place.



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Comments

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    27.12.2015

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    27.12.2015

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    27.12.2015

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