Again, a huge huge thank you to Jenny from Birds and Soap for sharing her design and photos with you! We'll be adding plans for the roof, pergola, window boxes, shutters and those stairs later this week so stay tuned! You already know Jenny from Birds and Soap who has engineered such amazingness as a farmhouse bed with hinged footboard storage  compartment, right? Don't let the cute hat and pretty smile fool you, this Momma knows how to make her little girl's dreams turn into a little girl sleeping in a dream bed, DIY style! And she kindly wrote me asking if she could share the plans with you so you could also build a dream bed for your little ones! This one is all Jenny, so you simply must go check out tons more pictures and her building story! The stairs are open concept shelving; I’m sure that drawers would be lovely, but I am still too intimidated to go “all drawer” on a project yet. This bed is separated into front and rear panels, which are held together by the side panels. I am a firm believer in distressing ANYTHING that goes in a kid’s room, because it’s eventually going to get “distressed” on it’s own. If you haven't already - you have to go visit Jenny at Birds and Soap now for lots more photos and details! Starting with the front frame, attach the 78” vertical bed posts together with the top horizontal support.
Next, the other two 77” horizontal frame pieces will be attached on the inside of the posts. Last for the frame, the two vertical 2x4 pieces that will frame out the bottom opening are screwed in with pocketholes as well, each at 26” from the inside edge of the bed posts (this should leave a center opening of 25”).
Attach the 2x2 rails that will be used to support the mattress slats to the bottom and middle 2x4 horizontal boards on the inside of the frame.
Panel construction: Beginning with the upper portion, if you would like arched windows, you will need to measure and cut arches into this board. My advice here is to cut out one side with a jigsaw, then take that scrap and use it to trace your next arch for the other window.
Lay your bed frame face down on a flat level surface and place the boards so they are resting on top of your trim pieces. Next, with the smaller 15 inch sections, run a bead of glue on the edges and nail into place.
Continue fitting your boards into place, checking for level, nailing and gluing down the entire width. Starting with the top 1x4 that is 22 ? ” wide, glue and nail it into place, checking for level.
NOTE: On the lower front panel measurement, the small boards along the sides of the windows are mislabeled.
When you are finished, glue the sill into place on all edges and use your nailgun to secure it into position.
Starting with the interior edge of the window, measure the length from the top of the window sill to the top of the window opening.
To trim out the top of the windows I used a 1x4 board cut to the width of the outside trim.
To get the outside arch, I measured ?” up from the bottom edge of the board and drew another arch freehanded. Now if you made your windows square, things just got a whole lot easier because all you need is a piece of 1x2 cut to length. Now this should be really easy, after all it’s just horizontally stacked boards nailed into place. This was time consuming and I burned through 1 ?” pocket screws rather quick, but the panel ended up strong and sturdy. Once you have made the eight brackets, find the third board down from the top of your panel. Find your (3) 2x4 frame pieces measuring 38” in length and pre-drill the board ends with pocketholes so they are ready to screw on the fly (I even placed the 2 ?” screws in the holes ahead of time for lightning fast drilling action).
To put the bed together, you can either lean the panel against a wall or have someone help you hold it up while you attach the frame pieces to the first panel. Starting with the rear panel, attach the side frame pieces on each end of your panel so that the top of the board sits flush with your marks, drilling the screws from the inside of the bed.
Next, you will need to maneuver the front panel into position and screw opposite ends of the side frame pieces into place. To attach the frame for the upper wall near the top bunk opening, find your 22” vertical piece and drill pocketholes into each end. On the lower sections, I alternated between (6) 1x4’s and (5) 1x6’s to fill in each side until you reach the bottom of the bed. Note: When it is time to move the bed, you can remove each panel by unscrewing the trim pieces along each post. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. This is maybe the most amazing thing I have seen on this sight besides Ana building ya know a house! I'm still trying to get the hang of Sketchup, so I just did a little copy and paste to mock up some examples. Bear in mind, that leaves the distance above the top of the mattress at about 25" (depending on mattress thickness), which would be a head banger for any kid taller than about 4'10". In this design, I accounted for the front and back panels to separate into 2 pieces, which keeps all the pieces smaller than 5' x 6'. Ok, this got long, but I'd love to see someone build it since I don't think I have the patience to render it in Sketchup. I simplified it a little from the first plan I put here, using 1x4's for the slats to be more efficient with lumber.
Search for stores offering the Legacy Classic Furniture Solutions L-Shaped Loft Bed with Lower Twin in Distressed Brown Cherry.
I spent the entire winter planning and googling inspiration for a bunkbed that would serve my two girls with functional storage, style, and charm that would give them childhood memories of great. While researching other bunkbed plans and pictures, I came across many a moms’ anguish over the difficulty they had when changing bed sheets on bunkbeds. I included narrow shelves on the rear panel to give each child a space for books, the nightly drink of water they “have to have,” and an alarm clock too.
It was a happy accident when I discovered that the storage bins I purchased at Lowes fit like.


I sanded the boards on the edges, highlighted the knots and patterns in the wood by letting a little undercoat or wood show through.
Without you, I would have serial-killer-scrawled images on Post-It notes and one really messy Sketchup file! The bed measures 45x 80x 90” tall (and an extra 12” across the front if you are counting the pergola).
These will be turned on their sides, with the widest face of the board facing out (on my first go round, I had them turned the other way, which gave no structural integrity to the bed rails.
Using 2 ?” screws pre-drilled and countersunk every 15”, and wood glue the entire length, attach the bottom rail flush with the bottom edge of the lower board, and for the middle section, attach the 2x2 rail so that it is flush with the top of the middle board. I did not do this and my window arches ended up being slightly off, which made for trouble when I tried to make identical shutters. I advise you wait and dry fit all of the pieces before you start nailing and gluing them in. I used a scrap of wood under the center of the long boards so they rest even the entire width of the bed.
This will be easy on the edge pieces, but for the center section that is between the windows, you will have to put a block underneath to keep it level with the rest of the panel. When you are finished, stand up your panel and wipe clean any glue that has dripped to the other side (there will be glue).
Again, if you would like your lower windows arched, take your 22 ?” long 1x6, measure in 7 inches from each end, and make your arch between these two points; this time using a smaller round object ( like a cake pan or a floor lamp). Then, attach the window arch board to the edge trim followed by the smaller boards on each end (gluing and nailing as you go) and the final two boards that sit below the window. This was the part of the process that got me really excited, because my vision was becoming reality! It should lie flat resting on the board below the window space and each notch should secure it to the adjacent panel pieces. The lower window opening should measure ten inches wide, therefore the sill piece will be 2x4x15 inches wide.
The measurements for length will be the same as the interior trim, also nailed and glued and kept flush the edge of the interior trim edge. Again, for the upper windows, this board should be roughly 16 ?” wide and for the lower windows, it should measure 11 ?” wide. The 78” vertical posts will be attached with the horizontal top piece using 2 ?” pockethole screws and glue. Glue, pre-drill and countersink 2 ?” wood screws every 15 inches across the rails to secure them. However, unlike the front panel, these boards are not broken up by center sections and extra trim. With your trim already in place, you can dry fit the boards to see how they will fit within the space.
Using your Kreg Jig, drill pocketholes along the top and bottom edge of your boards roughly every 15”. To attach your boards to your panel, you will need to stand it up while you secure the section with pockethole screws. Dry fit your boards, drill pocketholes around the edges, and glue and screw until you have one large plank. In order to attach the shelf across the bed, I made simple brackets by cutting down piece of 1x4 and making 45 degree cuts. Instead of gluing the frame pieces together, you will just be screwing them in with pockethole screws. The panels are heavy and can be a little bit of a balancing act before you get the first side secured; that’s why I recommend having the screws in place and ready to go. After these two boards are in place, attach the last 38” piece to the very top of the panel’s left post.
Below the center frame support on each side panel of the bed, you will need to attach your trim pieces. Using wood glue and a nail gun, from the inside of the bed, start at the top and work your way down each side. There will be a small ?” gap along the bottom of the side panels (it serves no purpose, just too small to do anything with). The panel sections will come out whole and then all you have to do is disassemble the side frame. I thought Ana's Classic Bunk Beds plan was a great starting point, which gave me a couple ideas. If you reduce an inch between each ladder rung, that cuts headroom by 3 inches, but means you only need a 9' ceiling to have the same clearance on the top bunk.
Not sure when I'll find time to play with Sketchup, but if I get some encouragement maybe I'll try to draw up one of these. The space underneath the bed will accommodate a trundle bed if needed; however, I chose to maximize storage by building three large storage boxes on casters for easy reach of shoes, toys, and little sisters (because YOU KNOW they are going to try it).
Oh, how I wish I had little boys; I can already envision a rustic, lodgy take on this design…Wood stained siding, real tree branches for the pergola, Hunter green shutters with little Pine tree cut-outs; what little boy wouldn’t love that? I thought it worked with the feel I was going for and  added to the whimsical nature of the design.
Thank you for taking  the time to make this into a visually appealing (and logical) step-by-step plan to follow (not to mention how flattered I am that it is on your awesome website). The 77” top piece is attached using 2 ?” pockethole screws drilled from the underside and wood glue on the insides of the bed posts and is also turned so that the 1 ?” edge is on face.
You want a large enough circle so that you will get a slight arch and won’t be cutting too high into your board. Bottom line: however you get your arch, whether you trace around a garbage can, pizza pan, or dreamcatcher- make sure it matches the second one.
Align the top arched board in place, and the remaining two 77” 1x4 and 1x6 boards at the bottom portion of the upper bunk panel. If so, get ready for the bottom portion, By now, the top section should look like it’s getting there, you might be a little concerned with the edges around the window openings, but they will be secured when it is time for the trim. I’m sure there are simple instructions somewhere on how to make a perfect arch without tracing random objects, but I haven’t googled them yet.
If you notice that your shorter boards do not align perfectly on edge around the window opening, it will be okay. Remember to wipe off any excess glue, because you will be crying real tears if you have to scrape it off when it has dried. The top windows should measure roughly 9 ?” tall and the lower window interior trim should measure roughly 13” tall.


When you are finished nailing and gluing, the sides of the windows will be secure and smooth. Fit it into place so it rests on top of the trim, and with a pencil, trace the arch pattern from the window opening onto the back of your board. It is not that hard, but if you are intimidated, there is always finding another circular object to trace.
They should be pre drilled, countersunk, glued, and screwed with 2 ?” wood screws so that they sit flush with the rear of the panel frame.
The bottom rail sits flush with the bottom edge of the 2x4 frame and the top rail sits flush with the top edge of the 2x4 frame.
Because these panels are so long, the boards tend to be a little flimsy and want to sag in the middle. For the upper section, I used three, solid 1x6’s at 77” long to fill the bottom portion below the shelf. Because of the weight of the boards, the panel almost wants to sag in the middle, so I made sure to place pocketholes along the outer edges for a solid frame attachment.
Use a scrap block to make sure your boards are flush with the interior edge while you glue and screw.
Notice the board size on the bottom section; it is made up of (4) 1x4’s and (3) 1x6’s all at 77” long. Attach the bracket with a nailer and glue, keeping it flush with the top edge of the third board. This way, the bed can be disassembled, allowing it to be moved inside; or if you should happen to join Witness Protection and need to flee the state, you can take it down in ten minutes flat. Join the boards together at a right angle, the 22” board should be aligned vertically, wit h the 18” piece lying horizontally across the top. Using (4) 1x2 strips cut at 49” long; pre-drill, countersink, and drill into the vertical posts with 2 ?” screws. They also have an optional interior box that slides back and forth on a rail for helpful organizing (shoes underneath, socks on top. Personally, I was going for a “Garden Cottage” feel for my girls’ version- but hey, whatever floats your boat! The middle board is screwed in and glued at 25 ?” down from the bottom of the first board, and the bottom board gets screwed in and glued at 30 ?” from the bottom of the middle board.
You can’t really tell from looking at my finished bed that they are uneven, but trimming it out was a real pain. I happened to purchase culled lumber for my panels at a discount, and some of my boards were warped so bad that I had to sand and trim to make a nice fit.
Before fitting the smaller pieces that will separate the window spaces, I glued the edges together and used my nailer at 45 degrees, this made these smaller pieces even and easier to deal with when it came time to attach them to the panel. You can also toenail a few shots into the top frame piece to make sure your board is secure. Note: It may be necessary to throw in a few 1 ?”pockethole screws to secure the wider panel pieces into place.
The front side of the panel will be covered with trim, just make an attempt to keep them level. Glue the trim on either side of the window opening, keeping the outside facing edges flush and nailing into place.
For the color-blocking on the bottom section, I used (2) 1x6 boards, making my shelf just a few inches lower than the upstairs bunk. Measure another 15” in from the two brackets you just nailed, mark and attach the remaining two brackets for your first shelf, checking for level. Because of this, they are a little narrow (at least my childbearing hips have noticed, haha!) They are about 17” wide; if that feels a little too small for you and yours, you might consider widening the dimensions by a few inches and purchasing more plywood.
And my other advice on paint: Sample-sized paint jars from Lowes have revolutionized my DIYing, building, and crafty self!
These pocketholes should be screwed in from the back of the frame and the 2x4’s should sit flush with the front edge of the bed posts. The window openings will be even from the edges, and you should have an 18 ? inch space in the center between the two marks.
I did not do this, but it sounds like a good idea; especially in the center section between the windows. Using the 20 inch 2x4 for the sill piece, you are going to create a notch on each end that is roughly 2 ? “ long and ?” wide. I advise holding off on the roof and pergola till the end- those extras will follow later in the plan. I did that because there is limited headroom in the lower section and figured a lower sitting shelf would be better. Nobody wants to get bloody knuckles trying to change the sheets), the top bunk end slats need to be touching the side panels. The shutters, window boxes, and stair railing all echo the sweetness of this charming design.
The cost of these 7-8 ounce jars is slightly less compared to a quart of paint, and allows for many color options.
But after I got went to town with my jigsaw it didn’t seem to matter much anyway; even at my best, I was all over the place ( I blame it on my blade). There’s no getting through a doorway with the roof installed and a pergola hanging off the front!
This createos a little bracket that lets a 1x4 board rest nicely on top with a ?” overhang. While the galvanized metal “roof” over the front panel gives  an illusion of depth, I think what really takes this bed up to eleven is the pergola- because who has a bunkbed with a pergola?
Take some time to look over your finished panel to make sure there are no nailheads sticking out. I painted the slats different colors from my leftover paint jars (and even cooler: cover the underside of the upper mattress with an extra fitted sheet- fun characters or something or other that kids like). None of the questions are being answered though and i would really like to know where i can get one!



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