I see in a photograph of the bench that the hardboard cover on the planing beam does appear to be as wide as the planing beam itself. Oliverd writes: Dave- I am new to Sketch Up and serious woodworking and would like to build White's NF workbench.
Is there an easier way to get Sketch Up to show the dimensions other than using the dimension tool on a component? Learn the art and science of designing furniture in SketchUp with Fine Woodworking's official blog.
In his early days as a professional woodworker, David Kuznitz of Mammoth Lakes, Calif., found himself with more time than money. Update - May 3, 2010: We've added a couple of new plans from some vintage magazines that useres might enjoy. Not too long ago I wrote a blog about many of the woodworking machines that Fine Woodworking has shown you how to make. Building a Thickness SanderBack in December of 1990, William "Grit" Laskin teamed up with David Wren to author an article on a homebuilt thickness sander built from a simple motor, V-belt and drum. Freewheel Lathe DriveWay back in issue 15, when the Nike swoosh was as big as bell bottoms were wide, Richard Starr demonstrated how bicycle parts could be repurposed into a foot-powered lathe that provided even power on the downstroke and upstroke.
Treadle LatheAppearing in the same issue as Richard Starr's lathe drive (seen above) was Jim Richey's Treadle Lathe. For those willing to take the plunge into homegrown shop machinery, the internet is loaded with useful links and sites containing a whole host of plans.
Dean7 writes: Matthew, thank you very much for posting the wonderful pdf's on the 6 machines.
Depending on how large a piece you are trying to steam, you will know when you have it right. I know a few woodworkers who use propane turkey fryers to boil water and they have had good results. When our troop build its dog sled, we built a box and insulated it with foil laminated building foam.
I tried steam bending several times but have since moved to bent laminations, it's more sure fired, for me.
I use a steamer similar to one in the picture except that I have the radiator hose enter at one end. I have a few dowels running across the PVC that keep the project wood off the bottom of the pipe where the condensed water will run.
Hugh, I'm reading this thread with interest because a friend of mine had a pair of bamboo chopsticks which are square (not cylindrical) with a quarter-twist in each one. Early subsrcibers, well, many of them I suppose got old and died, and if it's assumed (not necessarily correctly of course) that those early subscribers are still alive and their skills and knowledge grew year on year then the content of the magazine would have, by and large, needed to grow with them to retain their interest and their subsrciption. I would also point out that there must be 3-4 articles on steam bending in the archives and you can get those articles for a couple bucks. The other rigs I have seen include the gas tank method over an outdoor propane stove previously discussed, and converting a propane tank to a steamer using an electric water heater element. Likely you are right that I (and many other complainers) have reached that three year point where we are no longer gaining the benifit he once did. I used to use an automotive transmission fluid cooler core (looks like a small radiator) attached to a garden hose and then perched on the smoke stack of our kerosene 'hardhat' heater. Choosing the right bench design seems to be more difficult than picking the right tablesaw or handplane though. You could generate a report or run a cutlist and get the dimensions in tabular form but there's no automatic way to have the dimensions show in the drawing. I maintain anesthesia and respiratory equipment for the largest medical facility in southeast Minnesota. Bjorkman's bowl lathe was the result of an all-too-common problem among those of us suffering from a woodworking addiction: shallow pockets.
His system worked so well, in fact, that two of his lathes were in use in a New Hampshire middle school for years.
Inspired by German-American designs as well as others from Old Sturbridge Village, Richey's lathe was built from ashe and yellow pine and is as beautiful as it is utilitarian.
Below are a just a few of the dozens we turned up over the course of an hour spent surfing the 'net.
Would it be possible to put the single picture (with text) of David Kuznitz Wide-Belt Sander in a pdf file as well?

Check in every weekday for news, information, projects, and answers to questions from Fine Woodworking readers everywhere. In addition, I built a jig today that allows me to use a comealong to draw the mold together -- that made a difference. I don't know where to send you in the archives for a picture of my trusty steam box, so I'll re-post it here. You need a lot of steam under a little pressure to accomplish the plasticity for your project.
I then have the PVC pipe at a slight angle so that the exhaust end is slightly higher than the inlet side.
One more thing I did was to support the PVC tube with a full length board from below, this way although the PVC heats up it doesn't sag or bow.
This is just a thought but if you have some chopstick sized pieced of bamboo why not try boiling them sort of like spagetti. It's just a case, as always, of weighing up what effect you are after and applying the right technique to a particular job bearing in mind things like aesthetic, construction and structural requirements.
But I supose that the most popular discusions here are the "better fitting tennons" type discussions.
Sorry for rambling, I don't think I have ever critisized the magizine before, but discusions like this remind me about a time when I could count on FWW to challenge me.
It would have been very hard for Fine Woodworking to retain all the readership it picked up in the late 1970's when it started. New woodworkers get started all the time and need to know basic stuff so most woodworking magazines write for them. However when I first started learning It was the relatively advanced articles (I remember FWW doing articles on carbide compisition and tool steel grades) that challenged me and brought me to where I am now, I still have a long way to go. I used to read Fine Home Building religiously, that mag has DEFINATELY refocused its coverage.
There are many applications that don't require backing straps or green lumber to make it work.
A trickle of water from the hose would change to steam instantly and I would pipe it in to whatever steam box I needed. In an effort to help with my decision process I've been drawing different benches using SketchUp.
Perhaps he had them on hand or maybe they were cheaper than iron caps especially if the pipe isn't threaded at that end as he might have had to pay to have the ends threaded. Six months of part-time effort and $2,000 later, he'd created the technical wonder you see here.
Too bad there is no further information on how David Kuznitz built his amazing belt sanding machine! This way the condensation runs back down the hose and back into the gas can (new, never had gasoline in it). I think it's true to say that most woodworking magazines retain their subscribers for about three years before they drop off. But there are a half dozen popular wwing magazines that are geared to wards the begining ww'er, FWW has always seemed to shoot for the more advanced craftsman. One thing with steam, is that it works better if your pieces are somewhat close to square in section.
Some one that would be great to go to with this is Brian Boggs, who has just joined this forum.
Just do a few to try it and if it doesn't work your not going to be out alot on the "stock".
It is a shame that FWW dosen't seem to challenge us with discusion about more advanced techniques anymore.
There aren't that many subscribers to FW I'd guess that have been faithful to the publication for all of its near thirty years. By the time I've completed a bench model, I have a pretty good idea of how things go together. But that thanks to our great web produces (Gina and Ed), we're now able to put six of them up.
Perhaps the only real difference between Corneil's bandsaw and a commercially manufactured model was the price.
A 1" inlet in a large box generated by a wall paper steamer or tea kettle won't cut it.

The last few issues were not really any different than Popular Wood Working or the other entry level hobiest magazines. Bending a small molding around an arch where it can be glued or otherwise locked in place is an appropriate use.
I also find as I'm drawing I end up working out an efficient method of machining the lumber so I can avoid having to duplicate setups where possible.Last weekend I decided to take another look at John White's New-Fangled Workbench (FWW #139) or the "Six Clamp Bench", as it has recently been dubbed. The wood only stays plasticized for a few seconds, so you have to get it in the form quickly out of the box. I remember reciently "basic machine techniques", or something to the effect, and "Yet another jig for making tennons".
John designed it to be quite versatile as well as simple and inexpensive to build.Drawing the bench itself is pretty straightforward. I like to have some pressure in my box, not so much that the ends blow off but enough so the vent hole is blowing a steady plume and you want to stand back, wear gloves and a face shield when the door is opened. I've had very limited (unsuccessfull) experience with steaming, but would like to try again. I find myself flipping through the issue to see if there is any good information, and more often I leave it on the rack.
Making a serpentine style chest may be better approached by gluing up blocks in a brick like fashion.
And if you just can't get enough, check out this blog about a shop-built bandsaw of more recent vintage. I have a length of aluminum soffit vent in the pipe to keep the lumber out of the condensed water.
There are only 22 different components in the bench itself.After I completed the bench and the pipes I needed some clamps.
It's important to consider just how much value high levels of detail actually add to the overall model. For this clamp, I wanted something a bit more detailed than simple blocks but I didn't want a component that was so large that it would bog down the bench model when I added it. I could have sketched it in a sort of free hand matter but I find it easier to take measurements and draw to scale. Since this clamp has to interact with the bench model, it is easier to work with a properly scaled component. If you add all the filleted areas, the potential number of entities--edges and faces--could skyrocket. As I worked I made decisions about the number of line segments used for the various circles and arcs in the model. The paddle end of the crank is an area that shows where I reduced the segment count perhaps a bit too much. This didn't concern me much and from a distance, it isn't very noticeable.I broke each of the parts down into sections to make it easier to draw. As I've shown in several other blog entries, I split the part in half and made it into a component. The component was copied and mirrored to make the opposing half and these halves were joined.
The two components are made into a nested component so they can be handled as a unit for moving.Rather than drawing in the fillets, I used Soften (Ctrl+Eraser) or Hide (Shift+Eraser) to insinuate that those edges are not sharp. Click on the image for a larger version.Originally I used a texture in the Metal library called Metal_Aluminum_Corrugated to create a fairly convincing thread appearance.
A texture is a good alternative to modeling small detail because it is faster to do and it usually has less of an effect on file size. Note that the size of the image file does impact the size of the SketchUp file.I showed this drawing to some friends. This single turn was made into a component which can be copied as many times as needed to get the desired length of the threads.

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  1. reper

    Taken from a bit desk and.


  2. AtMoSFeR

    Portion of the venture between the steps needed and peg Rack.


  3. shirin

    Wooden, however even if you're an gifted wooden craftsman, a great ideas will have an effect on the baseline along.