Michael J Hanley is the proprietor of Autumn Woods Studio and has pursued fine woodworking over the course of 35 years.
His wall-hung cabinet holds more than 300 hand tools while taking up only about 12 square feet of wall space. This free dowload includes a measured, annotated drawing of the project, along with Zoltowski's full article about its construction.
Also reduced overall height down to 850mm (34") to enable reach of most tools, plus position tall tools (long planes) at top so as they can be handled from lower.
A fun project which I was mainly motivated to do to learn finger joints, prevent tools rusting from salt air and create more space in my shop. There were oddities in the plans, like the ends of the lower shelf needed to be notched so the doors could close. Lastly, given that the doors are only ?” thick, I had concerns about how to attach the chisel racks on the inside of the doors. QUESTION: Does anyone know the purpose of those four countersunk holes and screws on the bottom shelf, just below the carpeting and above the upper drawers? Maigret writes: Great idea, however, good luck hanging the cabinet if you follow the exploded plan.
Cedarslayer writes: I like the design but as a predominantly hand tool user, the example is configured in a manner that I would not be able to accept.
Since the design is tablesaw intensive, my suspicion is that the layout and height of the cabinet are ideal for a power tool using hand tool collector. Sorry to troll, but it seems counter productive to go through the effort of putting a wall chest to put all your most used tools within arms reach, only to mount it on a wall where 50% of the tools are placed above one's head and 25% completely out of reach.
Stranded writes: I would love to build this, but I worry about all that weight hanging from the wall.
Fine Woodworking Shop specializes in custom kitchens in both modern and more traditional styles. My Chest of Drawers in carved walnut and ash is featured in the April 2013 issue of Fine Woodworking magazine, which just came out.  It is a one of a kind piece, contemporary and sculptural.
This chest of drawers has a carved walnut exterior with integral carved drawer pulls, ash drawer boxes with hand cut dovetails, traditional Danish-style wooden drawer slides, mitered carcass construction with mortise and tenon joinery (90 degree finger-jointed tenons), and a book-matched solid walnut frame-and-panel back.  The finish is hand rubbed Danish oil. This chest won the First Place Award for Custom Studio Furniture in the 2012 Vermont Fine Furniture and Wood Products Design Competition.
My carved wood spatulas and cherry spoons won a First Place Award in the 2006 Vermont Fine Furniture and Wood Products Design Competition.
To see other press coverage about my work, please click here to go to the press section of my website.
I feel sorry for all the craftsmen that made all the beautiful wooden boats using such rubbish.


While I have LN and LV planes and they are wonderful, I have several old Stanley and Sargent planes that are great workers. One of the most enjoyable moments of my life is the time I hurled a Stanley block plane into the into Blackwattle Bay.Didn't even try to save the iron. There are certainly some rather esoteric and perhaps zen advantages to persevering with tools like this, and it is certainly character building, but it isn't efficient in any sense. I'd rather spend my valuable time on more productive activities such as gstarng out across the water,scratching my bum and wondering what might have been.
The Hock iron in my Stanley jack plane works OK and that's all, but whatever I do, it's ordinary compared to a proper plane(and I spent hours flattening the sole), but the backlash in the adjuster of a Stanley or Record is unforgiveable. I'd have never built anything, had I waited 'till I had the spare change to purchase enough of the right varieties of Veritas or LN plane.
Thanks very much, Steve, but my old Stanley (and my older woodie) planes, my re-handled antique chisels of promiscuous brands, and my re-sharpened Disston saws have served me very well.
I have a couple of Stanleys that were made in the 1970s or 1980s and the mechanisms are total POSs. Perhaps the poor quality of Stanley in the 70s and 80s really gave LV and LN a market opportunity they would not otherwise have had? Give me a budget and a set of drawings and I could do that, except for the turnings and carvings. He has designed and built timberframed homes and interiors, custom furniture and accents.  His work features hardwoods with exotic color and grain patterns, unusually wide boards, quarter sawing and bookmatching for affect. The design is an ingenious combination of interior doors and drawers, along with multiple divided storage compartments. I haven't started yet because I have a concern over what does it look like with doors shut.
Didn't take too long, (3 weeks of occasional evenings and a few hours each weekend), I guess due to having a detailed cut list per plywood thickness, and doing all finger joints of a particular size at once to minimise dado blade changes. I deleted pigeon holes from one side to enable jointer and other longer planes to fit vertically. We discussed having her inside the box for the cutting process – like Harry Houdini would do – but decided against it. I also used two JCB’s for each of the door posts as I didn’t trust the eventual weight of my tools to wood screws. 18th century fine furniture, but it still took me almost 6 months of casual shop time to finish it.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. All it would have taken for the designers of that tool was to specify a finer thread and a flat sole and it could have been a reasonably workmanlike tool.


Expensive tools are fine, and I wouldn't be surprised if they are a bit easier to use, but it's a bit of a stretch to call everything else rubbish. We have a large collection of cabinet door styles and finishes and can work with you or your designer to create a custom look. Any other chisel you buy will sooner or later get used for chopping glass and epoxy and opening beer bottles.Don't waste beer money on chisels. Contrary to popular opinion, you can indeed make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but why bother? I didn't want to put all this time and effort into a project that only looks great when its open. I was also nervous of the gluing process - too tight and I would have a mess, too loose and it would not hold.
I had to think through how to insure the bearing weight was distributed evenly between the top and bottom pairs of cleats, but that got solved as well.
They'll slide right past one another and your cabinet will wind up on the floor about as soon as you let go of it.
I don't expect to rewind the motor and replace the switch of an electric drill or router to get it to work properly, and I am no longer going to do the equivalent with hand tools. I've been looking at other styles and really like the look of a finished door, not fancy panel raised doors, just a nice simple finished look.
So I used biscuits for alignment of the case sides, top and bottom, and Joint Connector Bolts for strength.
Our superior quality cabinetry will hold up to the most demanding needs and ensure long lasting beauty. I like the way this one is made in a box and then split into pieces, but I've been trying to figure out how to incorporate a more finish look on the outside. I had a good experience with the latter while making John White's outfeed table (FWW #202).
Not edges of plywood showing and an overlapping piece of plywood to cover the gap between the doors. Does anyone else feel this way and have any suggestions to improve the looks of the exterior?




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