Either way though, check out safety regulations (which seem to constantly change) and mattress sizes before building.
A recent Fine Woodworking article explained how to hand cut angled dovetails for the corners. Small inlays of hearts or flowers in a contrasting wood go a long way for such a special piece.
Has anyone ever seen plans for such a box, or know the technique for shaping the front of the box?
Lee,That would take a big moulding plane for that profile, so I guess several planes would be needed. Mike Holden pointed out to me on General Discussion that the boxes in your JPG were built by Steve Lash, founder of SAPFM, and I found there's an article on how he made them in American Period Furniture. With modern adheasives and vacuum bags, I'm not sure that toothing the ground for veneer is necessary any more. I use a toothing blade in my L-N #62 to scrub, and to deal with difficult grain as you've described.
I've been struggling with my drafting program to make a drawing of the angles but, so far, it has defeted me. I consider James Krenov to be my mentor and as I have traversed the rich and diverse landscape of our craft, one treasure which he has revealed through his writings is the wooden plane.
As you will see in the view of my cabinet, I have a Lie-Nielsen scrub plane with two blades one of which is toothed.
Although I don't need another plane now, I may make another anyway, just for the fun of it. There are too many other variables in this bed-angle vs cutting-ability scenario to give it a Life-and-Death, State-Of-The-Union level of importance. This wood first came to my attention when I was working at the Chevron refinery in El Paso.

So, one day I took a piece of it to the Agronomy Department at New Mexico State University and the folks there said that in all probability it was Iron Wood but they needed a leaf to be (more) certain. Maybe you should write an article for Taunton on planes, then they would pay you by the word. Something that I was going to add in my last post was that the local's just remove a branch at a time. If you're serious about making another plane I will be happy to ship you enough of this wood to make an insert with.
If you typically run your new wooden planes across your jointer to make the sole square to the cheeks, you will not be able to do that with this wood. I often have this problem when I've seen how difficult it it s find a particular type of wood. I've no problem with using 1000+ year old wood, as long as I have a project that I feel is truely worthy of a millenium in the making. I incorporated an onboard shop vac, but, to be honest, it only captures maybe 50% of the dust. I would love to build something similar to your stand, would you be willing to share some details about how the slides are mounted, how the internal arrangement works??  It's perfect for a small shop. This setup handles 75% - 80% of my needs, and I can run out the stand extension arms if I'm working with really long material. I built myself a miter work station recently,, link belowfor another version of a miter saw station.. I also considered just buying one, but I felt I could do a much better job with some wood I had lying around and some more. Mike Guertin, a contributing editor for Fine Homebuilding, replies: There are several ways to tie a shed dormer into an existing roof.
But since the box is veneered, I could build the front up of multiple 1-inch layers stacked one on the other, the individual pieces being small enough to shape with a bandsaw.

I use it very seldom, as you do, for cleaning up wild grain that my home made smoothing plane won't handle.
It uses the smallest possible footprint, is mobile, but can support stock on 40 inches, either side of the blade with the retractalble wings.
In my case I like to get back to nature and do some hiking or kayaking in summer, skiing in winter, or anything outdoors for that matter.
Sign me up for free emails from Fine Homebuilding with the latest news, tips, and techniques. This choice is primarily aesthetic, and the structural details can be modified to accommodate your decision.Dormers that originate at the ridge are easiest to frame.
If the ridge is structural, you can make the dormer as wide as you want, the width limited only by the carrying capacity of the ridge.
It goes without saying, that because of our friendship, this apple wood is very special to me as are my memories of him. Collar ties can be situated at the desired ceiling height or omitted altogether, provided that the existing rafters and dormer rafters are sized properly for the span and loads.When the ridge isn’t structural, collar ties are usually necessary between the dormer rafters and the existing rafters on the opposite side of the roof. These collar ties have to be sized and attached to resist the outward thrust acting on the front wall of the dormer.Dormers that intersect the roof plane below the ridge can be framed in a couple of ways, but the most  common method begins with a header inserted between doubled common rafters on the sides of the dormer at the point where the dormer roof meets the existing roof. The shed-roof rafters then fasten to the other side of the header.This framing alternative is usually best for dormers up to 6 ft. Again, collar ties may be required depending on the particulars of your roof.Metal framing connectors should also be used wherever shed-roof rafters attach to either a structural ridge or the header. And with any type of shed dormer, it’s always a good idea to let a structural engineer see the plans before you start tearing off shingles.

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