I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible. I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now.
Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items.
Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths. The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row. Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need.
As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support.
After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s). For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level. It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall.
As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids! One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself). Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap. I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall.
What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side? I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams.
The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage. I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind.
With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them. If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up. I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are. You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time. I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement. I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be. In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves. As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards. Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you!
First thing to do is prepare the tools needed: hammer and nails, screws and a screw gun, some kind of saw, tape measure, stud finder, long level, pencil, small ladder, and chisel. After cutting all the shelves and put them in place, screw the 2×4 front and back supports together.
This garage shelves plans totally help us to do all the work by ourselves without the help of professional. MY building trades teacher showed us how to do this when the garage trusses were built wrong so we made them on site. Glued and screwed, I added twist nails too after getting my plans from the Canada.gov freebie site. Site built trusses in many occasions are better than the slam bam thank you mam factory built ones.
Lumber is high quality and the nail plated are rolled onto the lumber rather than beat on with a hammer. If you are doing it inside a municipality, check to be sure engineered trusses are not mandated.
With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment.
Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves. I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items. If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall.


I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall). For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart. This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design).
Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are). Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall. Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall. After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side. With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials.
My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run. Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ?
I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength.
These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal.
It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money! You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion.
If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams. Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling. Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor.
I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end.
For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams.
You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams.
For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that. Measure the highest stuff you want to store so you can measure the distance between the floor and the ceiling. Garage shelves plans prove it is not difficult to create and build our own shelves, to organize the garage you can read this garage organization ideas and tips. This is where the storage shelf will come in handy as a utility for putting all the items you wanted to keep in a very tidy manner.
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What I did was after getting the first one built I built the second one on top of the first to be sure that it was exactly the same, then moved the second one aside and built the third truss on top of the first and so on. My uncle is a retired union carpenter and he took measurements from the existing 28' trusses in the garage then he built the first one and we cut the patterns for all the pieces we needed and started cutting the pieces and built all of the rest of them on top of the first completed truss. I do work all over the place, like in wither oklahoma city or edmond oklahoma you get a 500 fine for installing your own hot water heater now, even if it's electric. In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed. I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last.
I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…). Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud.
The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height).
I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up.
You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength. This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support. Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4.
I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place. I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them.


I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily. Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have. You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall. Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying. As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation. Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on?
I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf.
At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement. We can learn carpentry, build shelves for our own garage with our own design with the help of this garage shelves plans. Custom storage shelf is much cheaper than the commercial shelving units which also do not maximize space utilization. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height. Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks. Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it. I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal. I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support.
Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in. Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame. Just need some suggestions and right instructions, you can realize to build an amazing garage shelves. My son and his cousin who were about 12 yrs old nailed a good bit of the nails as well as myself and my father in law. My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet. If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s.
Here i will give you step-by-step instructions on creating simple shelves for your garage as part of garage organization plans. Always remember that along with these measurements, you will also need to determine its width, height and depth, its distance between shelves, type of wood materials to be used and also ensure that the top shelf has enough distance between the ceilings for you to put your things.A simple freestanding shelving unit can be built by just using planks, strips of 1 x 1s, and also a screwdriver. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. Now i have a plan: buy both end trusses and one center attic truss, build the other 17 to the exact dimensions as the store bought one, using the same board material and steel truss gussets.
This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall. I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. The thickness of the planks is also important and it depends on what items that you want to place on top of it. I live out in the boonies with very little building codes so i am hoping my inspector won't mind. For example, if you are building a bookshelf that is only three or four feet wide, the appropriate width of the plank should be at least 10-inch, while its thickness is 1-inch.
Then, measure the planned distance between the shelves and make sure to mark those on the vertical boards.After that, you have to cut pieces of 1-by-1 which is long enough to reach across the vertical boards, and two pieces are needed for each of the shelves units. Then, you have to screw the pieces securely into place on the two vertical boards at the area that you have marked earlier for your shelf positioning. You have to ensure that it is perfectly straight same line with the other one because these will serve as the supports for each of the shelves in your storage unit.For the next step, you need to cut the top board of the shelving unit where its length will be the finished width of the shelving unit. This will be attached to the top ends of the vertical planks forming the top level of the unit.Then, cut shelves that will span the distance between the sides of your shelves, starting from the bottom until the top.
Each of these shelves must be placed on their 1-by1 supports and also ensure that they are securely screwed into place.



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