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BTW any slick surface finish oil, poly or other wise will make securing objects more difficult as when sanding or planing.
I threw this on my oak work top, just because I had the right amount left over from another project. A film finish (lacquer, shellac, varnish, poly varnish) is not the way to finish a workbench top. It repels glue drips (they scrape off easy when dry, heck or just flick them off with my finger) Easy to maintain, doesn't look bad marred up like a thick finish would. A workbench is going to get dinged and film finishes will crack or craze or be otherwise damaged.

Either use Minwax Tung Oil Finish, Minwax Antique oil or a homebrew of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, your favorite varnish or poly varnish and mineral spirits. I'm re-finishing a workbench I got from my work (they were throwing it out!) however, I'm just diving into wood working.
Once a film finish is penetrated, it looses its effectiveness and adjacent areas begin to fail. I finished mine with a satin Varathane, but I keep it covered with a clear vinyl sheet to prevent damage.
Drawer faces could be finished the same, or done with a low sheen satin varathane or equivalent.

This finish will minimize the absorbsion of any water and you can use a damp rag to wipe up any glue excess.

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