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The top shows how each was mounted, using the brackets (which were cut), along with additional wood risers for each fixture. Although many manufactures claim this method of direct top placement is perfectly acceptable, I would strongly recommend using a spacer of some type (such as wood blocks) to give at least an inch of space from the tank top. Besides the before mentioned method of using small wood blocks, the use of standard foam pipe insulation cut in half works very well and looks nice too in my opinion.
In our opinion this type of DIY rack is vastly superior in both flexibility and especially cost when compared to the pricey and very confusing TMC AquaRay Rail mounting systems! The picture above (click this picture to enlarge) is of an aquarium Condo with a rough outline of where the LED Strips will be placed above the Tanks. While this is not a necessity, these spaces allowed the aquarium hobbyist who installed these lights to provide the optimum distance as well as good ventilation and air circulation around the heat sink.
This is a perfectly viable option that will likely be different for each person depending upon aquarium, LED brand as well as desired Light Strips.
Another new idea for mounting the AquaRay line of LED lights that is especially nice with the new Mini 400 & 500 Aquarium LED Tiles are the MountaRay Singles.

Finally if you have an AquaRay LED light Fixture, TMC offers a unique mounting system that can be used in cabinets, hanging above the aquarium or with the MountaRay Sets.
This is not to say that this might be a perfect fit for many who do not have a canopy of desire to neatly suspend MANY LEDs at once over an aquarium in a neat and professional way. Negative; For rails over 1610 mm, these rails become too flimsy and I strongly advise to use multiple mounting system platforms for large aquariums rather than single length rails that will extend over an aquarium more than 6 feet in length.
As a friend noted with his aquarium maintenance business with one client (a restaurant he maintained dozens of aquariums for in the late 70s to early 80s), all these aquariums had enclosed canopies but for a back cut out. Open water placement (meaning with no glass, acrylic, or polycarbonate top between light and water), especially within a canopy over saltwater is not advised for ANY LED with electronic drivers (again no different than placing a lap top over your open aquarium).
However I know of freshwater placements over VERY well ventilated aquariums where the light was over 12 inches and no air stones or other water circulating devices were allowing any increase in moisture laden air. Even then, my aquarium maintenance friends were careful of their placement of the PDUs and most as of 2013 still have the original PSU dating back to 2009. LED Aquarium Lights along with T2 Lights are finally getting the notoriety they deserve which is now bringing up many questions for mounting.

This article will give researched lighting information to help you make a more educated decision about your aquarium light needs.
For those who do not have one of these useful tools for aquarium husbandry, I recommend reading the noted UV Sterilization article (below)! The purpose of this article is to show the reader DIY methods to set up many high end LED light systems with the parts that are generally already supplied.
In this particular aquarium, the corals almost immediately responded favorably to the higher quality light.
However this systems still is somewhat flawed in that the MountaRay is designed for rimless tanks and there for the rim must be cut or the whole system much be placed on the aquarium (which is a bit clumsy IMO). Some LEDs such as the Marineland Double & Single Bright already come in a an easy to mount hood, however these LEDs are really only a replacement for a common T8 Aquarium Lamp and thus not really recommended for planted freshwater tanks requiring higher lighting and most definitely not for reef tanks!

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