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We were becoming foot weary from the line of march, but headed southeast from the Piazza Navona, in search of the fabled Pantheon. Soon, we turned a corner and stood still for a moment, appreciating the classic lines of the Pantheon, a former pagan temple that had been constructed in 183 A.D. We walked the small and narrow streets nearby, looking in on the small vegetable and food shops.
At Stazione Terminal, we detrained and walked through the large terminal that connects the surface railways with the two principal subway lines which crisscross underneath Roma. We walked up the nearest boulevard to the Tiber, in search of one of the more storied edifices in Rome, the Castle San Angelo. We retrieved our luggage from the bus and stood in line for a brief 20 minutes of check-in procedures. From quaint and medieval EZE, we descended to the Middle Corniche Road for the picturesque ride into nearby Nice. We sought out and found the “A” line that would take us up to the Vatican and the Chiesa San Pietro (St. Peter’s held a long line of pilgrims, school children on holiday and other penitents from the four corners of the globe. We were debating where we would head next, when we noticed that the line had lessened for St. Like all liners, the boat is equipped with motorized, ocean-going tenders that are wholly enclosed and hold up to 128 passengers when full. Francois Grimaldi, the founder of the line, came to the area in 1297, with a small army of soldiers, all disguised as monks. We had finished packing the evening before, so we had time to stop at a nearby restaurant and had bagels and coffee, while reading the paper. A line was gathered near a tombed figure with an open, glass side, so we stood patiently in line to see what drew the attention. The streets in the area have ornamental wrought iron lamp posts and the buildings are adorned with ornate metal floral designs. The line was long and passengers were annoyed,some engaging in delightful histrionics, replete with loud voices and wild gestures.


Long lines waited to get into the Vatican museum and its moist desired visual prize, the Sistina Chapella (Sistine Chapel). We jumped into line and soon were admitted into the venerable wonder that is the church of St. We found the subway entrance nearby and walked down into the bowels of Rome, to catch the “A” train back to the terminal. We were high in the hills and caught pictorial visages of the valleys surrounding Siena, San Gimiano and the nearby towns.
It is impressive enough, but the real treasure, for Americans, is to walk by a simple grave stone, amidst ancient Monagasque royalty, embedded in the floor near the main altar. I uncorked a bottle of champagne, that the cruise line had given us, and we toasted our good fortune at being here with each other. The remaining spaces are crowded by large brick apartment complexes, stretching all along the train line that runs from the airport to Rome. We had already viewed this wonder on a previous visit and were not ungrateful that we didn’t have to stand in the two-hour long line. A 60 foot high cliff, with grecian columned buildings, marks the eastern edge of the Villa Borghese and frame much of the remainder of the piazza. Nearby Florence and the beautiful walled village of San Gimiano also sit on this road and prospered from the pilgrims and commercial traffic that flowed along its length.
I managed, in my best high school German, to tell the Germans that a set of my mother’s grand parents had come from Munich and that Buffalo has a sister-city relationship with Dortmund, a mid sized city near Dusseldorf. The sight lines, from the elevated promontory, were gorgeous, but our attention was a bit distracted.
It was assumed that even an woman amateur with no experience could do little harm at the nearly destroyed Temple of Mut, in a remote location south of the Amun precinct at Karnak. We sat by the fountain, listening to a musical group playing nearby, and enjoying the whole panoply of activities that swirled around us in this huge meeting place in Rome. The newer trees were only now approaching the proper maturity to deliver ripe olives for oil pressing. It was getting late and cooling off, so we walked back to the dock and stood patiently in the long line for the tender ride back to the ship.


Across the small plaza, from the Cathedral, sits a more modern building with a huge painting by Picasso, on its facade.
We sat for a time near the “Four Rivers” fountain and admired the artistry of the Master Bernini.
The buildings all around the piazza are replete with papal insignia and looked impossibly old to us, pilgrims from a land where three hundred years is a long time.
Far below in the village, a small shed houses two donkeys who used to ferry people and luggage to this pricey Inn, in the mountains above Monaco.
Most important to the study of the excavator of the Mut Temple, he was the author of The Life and Letters of Maggie Benson, 4 a sympathetic biography which helps to shed some light on her short archaeological career. Hugh accompanied the family to Egypt in 1897 but did not participate in the excavation.  Arthur, Hugh and FredArthur Christopher, Robert Hugh and Edward Frederick Benson These four male Bensons are included in every encyclopedia and biographical dictionary since the turn of the century, yet Margaret does not get a line, even as the daughter of her famous father. She noted some of these details in her initial description of the site, but in three short seasons she was only able to work inside the Mut Temple proper and she cleared little of its exterior. Near the west wall of the court, was discovered a block statue of a man named Amenemhet, a royal scribe of the time of Amenhotep II. He said it was hard that Margaret should not have "la jouissance de la statue que vous avez trouve" and she was allowed to take it to the hotel where she could enjoy it until the end of the season when it would become the property of the museum. The wall east of the gate opening is of stone and clearly of at least two building periods while the west side has a mud brick core faced on the south with stone.
Sometime after the temple fell into disuse the remaining mud brick half on the west was partly hollowed out and used as a dwelling or magazine (which may account for the rows of pots Margaret thought to be rebuilding)                                                           The Excavations: Second PartWhat is most important about the description of the 1896 season is the demonstration of attention that was being paid to building techniques, to additive construction and to possible rebuilding. The lower half was found a little later and it was possible to reconstruct an over life-sized, nearly complete, seated statue of a king. The statue identified as Ramesses II, mentioned in Margaret's letter of February 9, was found on the southwest side of the court, near the center.



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