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This is one of the better ones (modified from a Bimmerfest posting of the past for better organization so as to be more usable to the user).
I remember looking at this a long time ago and noticing that it's not quite right for my wagon, and my M6 is nowhere in sight. Great information,the only problem is the text is so wide I can't,and I'm sure others can't print it for a reference. If that doesn't work for you, the originals on Bimmerfest were in two parts (see the referenced E39 sticky thread if that helps) so maybe printing those (which are half the size) would work for you? The most important documentation to come with your Challenger is its vehicle identification number. The VIN is a thirteen-digit number which is stamped, whole or in part, in various places on the car making it very difficult for anyone to sell the car as something it is not. The first and main place to find the VIN is on a plate attached to the edge of the dash pad on the driver's side and is visible through the windshield. The second main place is on the metal tag attached to the top of the driver's side inner fender. The VIN can also be found on a label, attached to the rear face of the driver's door near the striker, that also has the date of manufacture and certifies that the car conforms to federal safety regulations. The last 8 digits of the VIN are also stamped into the body in one or more of these places depending on where it was built. Chrysler also took the trouble to stamp the last eight digits of the VIN on the engine and transmission. Originally Posted by alan I received a VIN number for a new Xcent, it's only 17 characters. There was no explanation on decoding a Maruti Suzuki VIN in this thread which left some members in confusion. Re: Decoding Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ^^ Tomorrow morning my vehicle will be in stockyard and i will have a look at it for VIN.
Re: Decoding Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) There is an easy way to decode Hyundai VIN , infact you can decode DOM also. Originally Posted by anshuman8 There is an easy way to decode Hyundai VIN , infact you can decode DOM also.

Originally Posted by GrandRk I have tried decoding DOM through that sticker pasted on rear window but failed to get exact date, which means that numbers are for some different use Not at all, can you post that picture here. Re: Decoding Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) MALA841CLEM0****1 - Can someone decode this?
Re: Decoding Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ^^ Even i knew that, but the question is, which month it is? Originally Posted by furious_driver ^^ Even i knew that, but the question is, which month it is? MODEL YEAR: To the right of the “ST” letters (short for “Style”) are the last 2 digits of the model year of the car. BODY TYPE: Following the division series is a 2-digit code that identifies the body style (or type) of the car, such as 2-door coupe, 2-door convertible, 4-door sedan, etc. ACCESSORY CODES: On 1967-and-earlier models only, there may be accessory codes listed on the data plate.
These codes will not appear on 1968-and-later plates.  Accessory codes reappear with a different format in 1970 on various cars. SEAT TYPE: There may or may not be an additional code following the trim code that identifies the type of seat installed in the car. It's shrunk down to the minimum that would barely fit in a Bimmerfest post also, so there's not a lot I can do to make the text more printable other than those suggestions above. This tag also has many of the codes that identify the options that originally came with the car. The radiator support, the cowl, rear package tray, convertible cross brace, rear body behind the bumper and (although I have never heard of anyone finding one on a Challenger) on the left-hand trunk weather-stripping rail. A car that has the same number stamped in all of these places is referred to as a "numbers matching" car. I am having Grand i10 and my VIN is stamped under drivers seat, i guess the location is same for Xcent as well. The model, body style, paint color, interior color, and date of manufacture are all found on this metal tag. Consisting of 2 numbers and 1 letter, the code tells you the month and week of the month the car was built. On 1964 Chevrolets, the codes are all 3 digits (including two-tone cars, which have unique 3-digit codes).

It would be easy to take, say, a 1970 318 model worth a few thousand Dollars and drop in a Hemi engine and sell it for tens of thousands of Dollars if it were not for the VIN.
From 1965 to mid-1969, Chevrolet used 2 letters–the first is for the lower body color and the second is for the roof paint, vinyl top or convertible top color. Some of these codes have been decoded on Chevrolet and Pontiac vehicles, while Buick and Olds are still a mystery.
The Challenger Deputy is reported to have been "L" (for Low) but examples seen seem to have the "H" instead.
This is a discussion on Decoding Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) within The Automotive Library.
I searched few other Hyundai VIN numbers also and it appears to be the case with them as well. 1968-72 models moved to the cowl panel under the hood near the windshield (it’s horizontal).
It’s not possible to pinpoint a specific day of manufacture from the data plate, only the week of the month the car was built can be determined. The following types of equipment have been listed on data plates that have been decoded: tinted glass, transmission, console, air conditioning, radio, mirrors, rear defroster, seat belts, and bumper guards. All models used a tag of this sort, and from 1964-72 there are 3 basic tag styles–1964-67, 1968, and 1969-72.
Generally, most date-coded components on the car were built between 2 and 8 weeks before the build date of the car.
From mid-1969 to 1972, all divisions used a 2-digit code for the lower color, followed by a 2-digit code for the roof paint, or a letter for the vinyl roof or convertible top color. We’ve illustrated all 3 here, and we’ve listed the important information (and how to read it).

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