How to stop dog from barking at other dogs on walks,different pit breeds,how do u stop a dog from chewing on stuff - New On 2016

Category: Dog Trainer Los Angeles | Author: admin 10.01.2015
Nothing can cut the enjoyment out of a walk out with your dog like having your dog go berserk when they see another dog! If you dog barks – stop the treats and just try to get past the other dog as quickly as you can. The more times you practice this, the more engrained the behavior of looking at you when you see another dog will become. One of the most beautiful things about dogs is that no matter how old they are (you can teach an old dog new tricks) or what their past experiences have been, they learn through association.
Dog aggression is a very complex issue, and there is no way we could cover all the possible reasons and solutions that a dog might bark, lunge, hackle, growl or generally go bananas when they see another dog when on leash. How to Get Your Dog to Stop Barking and Lunging on Leash Many dogs bark and lunge at other dogs or at certain people or objects. There may be as many reasons for why dogs bark at other dogs while on leash as there are breeds of dog, but the end result is the same – and not fun for you or the other dog and person being barked at! Ideally, try to stay as far away from the other dog (cross the street for example) so that they are less stimulated, and BEFORE they get close enough to the other dog to start even thinking about barking (watch for staring, hackling, or growling), give them something to focus on that they really really really like, that’s even BETTER than their slightly fuzzy dog-memory of how good the adrenaline felt the last time the saw a dog and barked. You want to retrain your dog so he sees another dog, he instead LOOKS AT YOU and gets the treat reward, along with a verbal reward!
Crossing the street or turning to go the other way are helpful methods to head off an uncontrollable barkfest. But is a safe method to try, and you’re not going to make their leash-aggression worse as long as you don’t reward the dog after they bark! Very often with young or less-socialized dogs, barking at other dogs on walks isn’t leash aggression at all, rather excitement or anxiety about not knowing what to do. Some of the most common reasons that dogs bark on walks are (1) to to alert you another animal or person is coming (as if you didn’t see them too!), (2) to let you know something is making him or her uncomfortable and that more distance would feel better, or (3) to communicate something else, like to go say hello to the other pooch.

But we’ve found that this one method has helped us and our friends with many leash-reactive dogs, and we hope it will help you too! We’ve discovered one method that works quickly and easily for many treat-motivated dogs! If your dog is strong and fast and catches you off guard, you can wind up with a sprained shoulder or faceplanted on the sidewalk. Leave her to her own devices and she won’t settle down till the other dog is far enough away. Yes, you could punish me hard enough to make me stop-- but you couldn’t punish me into feeling good about nearby water bugs. And you can punish your dog hard enough to shut down her explosion, sure--but you can’t punish her hard enough to make her feel the world is peachy keen in proximity to other dogs.
In addition, from your dog’s point of view the aggressive display seems to work pretty well--after all, the other dog always goes away. Several factors can affect it--the other dog’s size, appearance, and behavior, for three.
A big dog with a naturally high tail and an intense stare might as well have a target painted on him--and in fact, that intense stare suggests he’s a little reactive himself. How many close encounters your dog has already had that day will affect his stress level and thus his propensity to blow.
Your job as your dog’s guardian is to look out for his welfare, and that means helping him out of tough spots. If you’re blindsided--say, a dog comes around the corner--and he does explode, then just hold that leash till you can get out of Dodge. I know some people will be happy to give you the evil eye and tell you you should scold or hurt your dog.

Remember, this is damage control till you get help.Desensitization and Counterconditioning for Reactive DogsThere are two scientifically sound and humane approaches to behavior modification for reactive dogs. In this process, you start with the mildest version of the problem stimulus that your dog will notice. As soon as your dog notices it, you deliver something your dog loves--usually, this will be a superdeluxe treat, roast chicken let’s say. When desensitization and counterconditioning is done right, your dog learns that the sight of other dogs reliably predicts that roast chicken appears in his face. Over time he comes to tolerate or even look forward to the proximity of other dogs, because they are such excellent predictors of succulent dead bird.The Constructional Aggression Treatment for Reactive DogsThe second approach is called the Constructional Aggression Treatment, or CAT. One is that though aggressive displays may start in a moment of panic, dogs learn over time that aggression works.
The second premise is that most dogs are friendly in some contexts--so the trick is to teach her to import those friendly behaviors into the problem situation.
In a CAT session, the learner dog is presented with a mild version of the problem stimulus--for the purposes of this podcast, another dog. As soon as the learner dog offers any non-aggressive behavior, the other dog moves further away. Also, many dogs benefit from appropriate behavioral medication--ideally, prescribed by a vet board-certified in this specialty.Dogs do better when we guide them and help them succeed.

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