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How to potty train my dog with a crate,helping dogs cope with separation anxiety,how to make a dog stop biting your feet,puppy barking all night long - PDF Books

Category: Dog Training Courses Online | Author: admin 02.04.2014
The single most important aspect of puppy training is that you reward and praise your puppy each and every time she does the right thing. The key to house training is to establish a routine that increases the chances that your puppy will eliminate in the right place in your presence, so that she can be praised and rewarded; and decreases the chances that your puppy will eliminate in the wrong place so that she will not develop bad habits. Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your puppy to a crate and long term confinement when you are not home.
Short term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your puppy from eliminating when confined, so that she will want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. About one hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put her in her crate. A free, comprehensive and in-depth guide to crate training your Labrador puppy by best selling author and Labrador expert Pippa Mattinson. Step-by-step training instructions and a crate training schedule chart included. The main purposes of a crate are to help a puppy with learning to be clean in the home.  And to provide a place of safety when he needs to rest or when you cannot supervise him. Crate training is a great way to speed up potty training if the puppy is crated for short periods of time at the right times during the day. You can find out how to do that in our potty training pages, and this article: 15 potty training problems solved, covers just about every possible aspect of potty training that you might need help with.
A crate is especially important if you have a busy household with small children as it provides the puppy a peaceful haven where he can’t be stepped on or poked. A crate is of course simply a cage, and it really isn’t appropriate to keep a dog in a cage, and as dog guardians, I think we need to be aware of that. Like most training tools, and forms of restraint or confinement, there is scope for a puppy crate to be abused and you’ll need to be careful not to leave your puppy in there too long. There are several different ranges of crate on the market, and what you are looking for is a sturdy wire crate that cannot be destroyed by chewing or scratching.
But ideally a crate for a puppy should be relatively small or your puppy may decide to use one end as a toilet. Your puppy should be able to stand up without bumping his head and to turn around easily in his crate, and not much more. We are also big fans of the Ellie-Bo range of folding crates, which come in a wide variety of sizes.
Another option is to buy an adult sized crate straight away, but get one with a crate divider to give the puppy the appropriate amount of room when they are small. Your puppy will soon grow out of his little crate and you will need a full sized labrador crate for the rest of his first year of life and possibly beyond.
It is helpful if a crate can be opened from more than one direction, especially with the larger crates. The type I use for a larger pup is the large 36″ silver strong dog cage by Doghealth ck36. A few labs, may be large enough when full grown to need the next size up, like this 42″ Midwest double door crate.
The very cheap crates tend to be rather flimsy and plastic travel style ones are only suitable for very small puppies in cool climates as they are easily chewed and can get rather hot. Most puppies take a from a few days to a few weeks to settle into their crate happily without whining every time you leave the room if you shut the door. We’ll look at coping with crying in more detail in a moment, but the key to success within a week or two is to keep crate times short and sweet, and to leave the puppy something nice in the crate to keep him occupied. But, with careful management, and sensible use of a crate, many puppies will be effectively clean and dry quite quickly.
Place the crate away from draughts and direct heat – be careful to avoid places that are in direct sunlight at certain times of day. It is tempting to shop for pretty padded beds to place in the crate, but stuffed beds are often ripped open by Labrador puppies so it’s a good idea to start with something that is a little more resistant to chewing.
It can be difficult with some Labrador puppies to find any bedding that they do not destroy. Veterinary bedding is an ideal crate liner as it’s soft and washable and can be cut to size, but if your puppy chews it up and swallows bits of it, you may have to think again.
It isn’t a good idea to leave a water bowl in a puppy crate.  He’ll just play in it and spill it everywhere.
He won’t need access to water in the crate to begin with because you will not be leaving him in there for longer than an hour or so,  except at night. An eight week old puppy will be  fine without water during the night-time hours. You can buy water bottles to attach to dog crates and cages, but if you are leaving the dog so long that he needs water, he should probably be in a puppy pen, or kennel and run, not in a crate.
Your objective at stage 1 is simply to get the puppy used to being in and around the crate with the door open. Start by placing puppy in his crate frequently and each time you place him in there drop several little edible treats through the roof for him. Don’t shut the door on him during the day to start with if you can  avoid it. Just let him come straight out again when he has finished his treats. During the night,  for the first two or three nights,  it will be helpful if you can have the puppy sleep in a sturdy deep sided cardboard box or a portable carry crate by your bed.
If he is left alone at night whilst he is still homesick  he is likely to howl, and howling in his new crate is not a habit we want to establish.
After the first three or four nights, or by the end of the first week, your puppy can be placed in his crate in the kitchen before you go up to bed at night.
If a puppy has fallen asleep in his crate and slept for more than a couple of hours then you will need to let him out  if he wakes up crying. You can find lot more information on teaching your puppy to be clean and dry in our potty training sections.
However, you do need to get the puppy used to spending longer periods in the crate in preparation for being left alone from time to time when he is older. For this stage, you are going to need at least three puppy kongs. These are tough hollow rubber toys that you fill with mushy food and freeze.
Each time you put the puppy in his crate for more than a couple of minutes, you will leave a frozen food filled kong in there to keep him company.  Puppies love these and will soon grow to associate the crate with the pleasure of the frozen kong.
Once you have got to the end of the first week and the puppy has accepted the crate as a nice place to be, the next task is to get the puppy to accept the closed door for longer periods of time.


The idea is to leave the door closed for a few seconds longer each time you crate the puppy. But it is very important only to open the door when the puppy has been silent for several seconds. If the puppy starts to whimper or howl you will need to turn away from the crate and ignore him.
Tell him what a good dog he is.  Let him out immediately and go back to much briefer periods of closed door for a while. If your puppy whines in the crate, you need to crate him more often not less, and for shorter periods. Warning: if you open the crate door whilst your puppy is howling,  he will howl longer and harder next time! My own personal rule is never to leave a dog over six months old in a crate for more than four hours at a stretch. It isn’t appropriate to leave puppies in crates for long periods of time, so if you are returning to work while your puppy is still small, and don’t have anyone to help with his care, you’ll need to use a different system of potty training. You can find out much more about overcoming the problems of being a working puppy parent in this article: combining a puppy with full time work. As your puppy grows bigger, picking him up and putting him in his crate becomes more of a physical event! You don’t want to get into a situation where you have to chase your puppy around the kitchen and physically push him into his crate each time you go out.
Provided you are not leaving your puppy alone for too long, he should be happy to go willingly into his crate.
It can be any word you like as long as it is not one he associates with anything unpleasant. Until you finish the training, you’ll still need to physically put your puppy in his crate before you go out. You can now teach your puppy or older dog to go into the crate on command or cue.  This will probably take a couple of weeks. Have several training sessions each day  –  at least three.  And do 20 or 30 repetitions of the following exercise in each session. Note that this is different from ‘luring’ the puppy into the crate by putting treats inside it.  You are teaching him to chose to approach the crate. In this exercise, you are going to click and treat the dog for putting a nose, or a paw through the opening into a crate.  For some dogs this is too big a jump and you will need to work on a smaller crate zone first.
We are moving the goalposts and the dog will be surprised when you do not reward him for entering the zone.  He will quickly try something different.
Remember, if you have to go out, scoop him up without a word, and place him in there bodily. Repeat and gradually raise the criteria you are setting so that more and more of the dog must be through the doorway to get a reward. The exercise is done when the dog repeatedly goes right  inside his crate.   With a dog that is not crate-shy,  you can often work through these three Exercises in a day or two. Repeat from step five until he will go into the crate,  watch you open and close the door, and remain in the crate for a few more seconds after you have opened the door. Now do something else with the dog for a moment,  stroke him, ask him to sit a few times, and then try again from step 4.
Once the dog is repeatedly racing into the crate on your cue, we need to make sure he can distinguish this command from other commands.
It is very common for a dog that has had intensive training like this to respond by ‘crating’ himself every time you get your treats out.  In this case the dog is not discriminating between different cues, but rather making assumptions about what game you are going to play. So the next step in training is to mix in another cue.  The simplest is to alternate crating with ‘sit’.
Using exactly the same principles as above, click and treat your dog several time for sitting to the command ‘SIT’. Repeat until the dog can respond appropriately to either ‘In Your Crate’ or ‘Sit’  no matter what order they are given in, nor how many of each you ask for in turn.
You now have a dog that actually understands the meaning of In Your Crate and happily complies with your command.  It is time for him to adapt to being confined after being told to go in there. Now you can begin to send the dog into his crate for longer periods,  such as when you go out for an hour or so. Provided your dog is not left overly long in a crate on a regular basis,  this should overcome any shyness he has about going in there.
By twelve weeks or three months old, many puppies will be sleeping 7 hours or more at night and going happily into their crates on cue, if they have been taught to do this. If all goes well, by about six months of age, your Labrador puppy should be clean and dry in the house, and sleeping soundly through the night in his crate. At this point, many puppy owners breath a big sigh of relief and start to look forward to the prospect of removing this massive and annoying crate from their kitchen for good. Let’s face it, a cute dog basket with a nice cosy liner looks a lot more attractive in your home, than a great metal cage. Most people are reluctant to give out information on how long a puppy should be crated, or what to expect at different stages, because puppies are so different from one another. But I know how important it is for you to have some idea whether or not your puppy’s behaviour and progress is normal. In the meantime, if you are worried about your puppy’s progress with crate training or are having problems, do drop into our support forum and ask for help! Check out our Labrador Puppies section for more help and advice on crate training your puppy.
The book will help you prepare your home for the new arrival, and get your puppy off to a great start with potty training, socialisation and early obedience. Use lots of praise and repeat the command for example "Good Go Potty Outside, Jack!!" "Good Boy"!! If you decide to use treats, then just one per potty and only use them for the first week or so and then remove the food reward, this is not something you want to continue to do everytime they go potty outside for life. When you con not have all eyes on your puppy in the house then they need to be put back in their enclosure or crate until they're housebroken. The following house training approach will be effective with most puppies in three to four days.


Be vigilant when your puppy is in the house especially on the carpeted areas of your home, watch for potty ques like circling, sniffing etc.
The first few nights, you can place the crate beside the bed so that the puppy can hear and smell you.
For people who work or for those people who can not take their puppy out every 2-3 hours, I do recommend they use a contained area with access to a litter box until they're a little older and can hold it for the full 8 hours in a carte.
The crate is not intended as a place to lock up the puppy and forget her for extended periods of time.
If she does perform, then immediately reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and play in your house for a couple of hours.
This article shows you how a crate can help you raise a happy, and well adjusted puppy, and how you can avoid common crate training mistakes. Until then, make sure that you crate him for very short periods when you know his bladder is empty. If you're yelling and screaming then your puppy will just think that you're unbalanced and that you can not be trusted and this is really not the way you want to start to build a strong lifelong relationship with your puppy. It is your choice to place a pillow, towel or puppy pad inside the crate. Normally puppies will not soil their sleeping area. You can use either baby gates or an x-pen with a crate inside of it to contain your puppy in a small area. This is the crucial developmental stage during which puppies learn to accept and enjoy the company of other dogs and people.
If your puppy soils her crate because you left her there too long, the house training process will be set back several weeks, if not months. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out.
Its much harder to train a puppy not to go potty on the carpet once they've done it a few times. Labradoodles and Aussiedoodles are very smart dogs, training them is easy but you also need to be careful what you're training them, you can unintentionally train them things without realizing you're even doing it and training them with anger will only teach them that humans can not be trusted. Dogs are den animals and are naturally clean, they do not want to sleep in their own potty mess. Never give your puppy free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her bowels and bladder are empty. I did not know a puppy needed to go out every 2-3 hours at night so we did not do that and her first night she did not have a crate. I personally love doggy door training but if a doggy door is not possible then the following method works very well and fast if you do it right. Therefore, it's better to restrict the puppy to hard surface floors for at least the first couple weeks, I understand that this is not always possible so in the case where your house is all carpeted then you just have to be more vigilant and keep your eyes on your puppy at all times when their out of the crate during housebreaking.. Dogs follow assertive energy, they do not follow angry or frustrated energy so pay close attention to your body language and your tone when training your puppy. If the puppy soiled its crate, cleanup the mess without bringing attention to the puppy that it had an accident. If they've been raised in a clean environment to begin with at the breeders then you can use their natural instinct to your benefit by using a crate to potty train your puppy. Using a crate is not mean. So, he woke up after the long sleep, made a minor whine but immediately began playing on his own and no other whines or howls occurred. Immediately upon bringing a puppy home, put them on a leash and take them directly to the door that leads outside and where you have your bells hanging, take his paw and ring the bells, then open the door and take him to his new go potty spot. They may not like it at first but they will eventually see their crate as their den and safe haven. The second night we have had a crate but we did not close it up and so we woke to many messes again.
Placing the puppy back in the crate or enclosure unless you're going to be able to monitor them at all times. Today though and last night, this is the third night, we noticed that when we take her out she will go potty and we praise her and bring her in and within a few minutes she is dribbling pee on the carpet.
When the puppy has reached the location where you want them to go potty, use the command phrase that you've selected and do not say any other words. You want to make sure however that the crate is not big enough for them to make a bathroom area and a sleeping area in their crate. Just remember to not give up on training the new puppy to follow a set procedure to let you know it wants to go outside. It needs to be big enough for them to turn around, lay down, stand up and sit down without their head hitting the top of the crate. Immediately upon seeing the puppy completes going potty, bend down and give the puppy a small treat.
Do not use doggy doors until the puppy knows its proper spot to go potty and not to go inside. If the crate is too big they will divide the crate with one side being their potty spot and one side being their sleeping spot. Be diligent, have patience and consistency in your training and your new puppy will be housebroken in a short period of time. Then we put her in our bathroom for a while after playing but did not close her in the crate and found messes after 10 minutes and she had just went pee outside (not to mention the dribbled accidents in between) and she had poo’ed. If your puppy is going potty in their crate then you are waiting too long to take them out to go potty and you need to adjust their eating and drinking schedule. The first walk in the morning is just to relieve himself then bring him back in for breakfast in the crate. This does several things, it enables him to eat with more peace of mind knowing he's in his own space, and it makes the crate a more enjoyable place to spend time in.



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