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Category: Dog Trainer Los Angeles | Author: admin 15.01.2015
Obviously this does not include if a dog has a medical condition and it is always our responsibility when something unusual happens to make sure nothing is wrong. So, now that you know nothing is wrong, than you become really irritated with what your dog is doing. The problem can be directly connected back to the interaction between YOU and your dog – your emotional interactions and lack of giving your dog direction!
Dogs thrive on structure and routine.  They do not do well with lots of highs and lows in the emotions departments. They do not do well with major disruption of their routine, or jockeying for what they see as their “position” with other dogs in the family. But, all is not lost.  It’s fixable – if you understand what you need to change AND you consistently send your dog the right message.
If he does make those decisions – he will make them like a dog and believe me that’s not going to make you a happy dog owner.
I gave one of your doggy book to my classmate Lisa, and she gave it to his grandson for Christmas. For example, if you leave a dog alone for longer than the dog is accustomed, or significantly change the daily schedule or routine, your dog may begin to house-soil. Two specific types of house-soiling, submissive and excitement urination differ from most other forms of house-soiling in that the dog has little control over their elimination.
There are numerous medical problems that could cause or contribute to house-soiling, and these become increasingly more common as a dog ages. Certain drugs such as steroids may also cause a dog to drink more and therefore urinate more.
As dogs age, cognitive brain function decline, could also contribute to indoor elimination. For dogs that are house-soiling a physical examination and medical history are first required. Training techniques for house-soiling dogs are virtually identical to those needed to house train a new puppy. The key to effective house training is constant supervision and preventing access to indoor elimination sites.
If you have trouble keeping your dog in sight leave a remote indoor leash attached to your dog. Your dog must never be allowed access to indoor sites where they have previously eliminated unless you are there to supervise. If your dog has reduced control due to their physical health, scheduling changes may need to be made.

To try and differentiate house-soiling from separation anxiety, it may be necessary for you to keep a record of when the elimination occurs.
For submissive urination, it is important that you and all visitors interact with your dog in a less dominant or threatening manner by avoiding physical punishment and even the mildest verbal reprimand.
In fact, owners who attempt to punish the pet for urinating submissively will make things worse since this intensifies fearful and submissive behaviour. Sterilisation will eliminate male marking behaviour in over 50% of dogs and is also recommended for female dogs that mark during oestrus. She was telling me, that her daughter was telling her, that she is about to go crazy, because she has to read the Don’t Lick the Dog every night ever since… What better evidence that your book is a hit with Asher!
Dogs that are exhibiting an increase in anxiety may begin to eliminate in the home due primarily to a loss of control when anxious and not due to spite. It is most likely to occur on or near the odours, especially the urine, left by other dogs. However, even if house-soiling dogs are retrained to eliminate outdoors, indoor sites may continue to be used, since the odour, substrate, and learned habit may continue to attract your dog back to the location. This leash can also be used to deter any elimination or pre-elimination behaviours (such as sniffing, circling or squatting) in the act and to direct your dog to the appropriate area without delay.
If the elimination takes place when you are gone, or your dog is prevented from being near you, separation anxiety should be considered.
When greeting a very submissive dog, you may initially need to completely ignore them at greeting, even to the extent of avoiding eye contact. Confining the pet so that they are unable to watch other dogs through windows in the home may be helpful. Dogs that soil the home continuously or intermittently from the time they were first obtained may not have been properly house-trained.
Dogs that exhibit separation anxiety may soil the home and require an intensive retraining program. A dog not only urinates but may show other signs of submission such as ears back, retraction of lips, avoidance of eye contact, and cowering.
In addition, dogs that eliminate indoors are in essence, performing a self rewarding behaviour since they relieve themselves and do not perceive that the area they have used is inappropriate. Whenever you are not available to supervise, your dog should be housed in either a confinement area where they do not eliminate (such as a bedroom, crate, or pen), or in an area where elimination is allowed (such as a dog run, papered pen or room, or outdoors). Dogs that eat free-choice often need to relieve themselves at a variety of times throughout the day. Since the purpose of the crate is to provide a safe, comfortable area for a dog to "curl-up and relax", it is not appropriate for dogs that are anxious about entering or staying in their cage.

Urine residue must be removed from around doors, windows or other areas where stray dogs have been marking. Dogs that have been previously house-trained may begin to soil the home for medical reasons or behavioural reasons. Although this problem can be seen in dogs of any age, submissive urination is most commonly seen in puppies and young female dogs. Once medical problems have been ruled out, it will then be necessary to determine if your dog was ever completely house-trained, whether there were changes in the pet's household or schedule at the time the problem started, whether your dog is marking or eliminating on horizontal surfaces, whether or not the pet is exhibiting anxiety when the owners leave or when they are locked in their confinement area, and whether there is any evidence of submissive or excitement urination. While this can be overcome with training techniques, it may be better to confine these dogs to a small room such as a laundry room or kitchen where your dog is fed, or a bedroom where they sleep.
If you cannot accommodate your dog's decreased control, installing a doggy door, or providing a papered area may be necessary. Your dog is taught to perform a behaviour that is not compatible with urinating, such as sitting for food or retrieving a toy when they greet someone. Inappropriate use or timing of rewards might further excite your dog and serve as a reward for the excitement urination.
Dogs may mark territory for a number of reasons including male hormonal influences, other dogs entering the property, moving to a new household or getting new furniture, or as a response to increased stress or anxiety. Owner intervention in the form of verbal reprimands or punishment only serve to aggravate the problem by making a dog act more submissive which leads to further urination.
Feeding a low-residue diet may also be of benefit because a dog often has less urgency to defecate and produces fewer stools. If your dog anticipates food or ball playing at each greeting, they are less likely to eliminate. The use of drugs to increase bladder sphincter tone might also be considered as an adjunct to behaviour therapy for refractory cases. Excitement urination is similar to submissive urination except the stimuli that lead to elimination are those that lead to excitement, particularly greeting and giving affection to a dog. Another important aspect of treating over-excitement to visitors is repeated presentations of the stimulus so that a dog learns the correct response.
If visitors come only infrequently, a dog does not have the opportunity to learn a new behaviour. Each time the person returns they are more familiar and less likely to stimulate the urination behaviour.

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