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While Hawaii has our share of dishes served with warm water (clawless) spiny lobster, for obvious geographical reasons, we’re not high on the list of places you think of when it comes to northeastern clawed cold water lobster, most famously known from the state of Maine.
Like clams and other seafood, most folks along the northeast coast Atlantic LOVE their lobster.
Maine Lobster tossed lightly with Mayonnaise on a buttered New England Style split-top hot dog roll and THAT’S IT. There are some basic rules to making a true Maine Lobster Roll, Ken says, and the first is to put yourself in the place of lobstermen (those who catch lobster) and what they would have on their boat or dockside.
The lobster roll served cold as it is throughout the rest of the northeast region and the world is called a “lobster salad roll” or “New England lobster roll”. The connecticut Lobster Roll is simply lobster meat sauteed with clarified butter (no mayo’) on a roll.
The lobster roll first originated at a restaurant named Perry’s in Milford, Connecticut as early as 1929. Homarus Americanus, or cold water lobster is caught all along the Northeast coast, from up north off Nova Scotia, Canada, all the way down to the coast of the Carolinas. This, as compared to the spiny, rock, slipper and Caribbean lobster, which have no claws, and its meat not nearly as tender or sweet as cold water lobster due to the warmer tropical and subtropical waters they live in. While most northeastern cold water lobster are highly regarded for their superior, sweet and tender meat, Maine Lobster is the most recognizable and marketable name in the the entire world’s lobster industry. As it turns out, many restaurants and purveyors were falsely advertising the lobster they sell as Maine Lobster, when in fact, they’re selling cold water lobster from Nova Scotia to the north, or from coasts south of Maine.
Think Kona Coffee and the brand name marketing behind it, let alone the subtle to pronounced flavor benefits, and that’s pretty much where Maine stands behind their beloved lobsters caught off their coastline, by Maine-based lobstermen. That said, 85% of the lobster distributed in the United States comes from the state of Maine.
As mentioned previously, next to the Lobster meat itself, the bun is of course key, and purists such as Ken will insist a Lobster Roll be served on none other than a New England style split-top hot dog bun. BTW, while originally was a bakery on King Street in Honolulu (started in Hilo) specializing in Portuguese Sweet Bread, King’s Hawaiian is now manufactured on the mainland and distributed globally with many products in their line.
Some will also add other veggies and herbs in the lobster mixture besides celery, such as cucumber, cabbage, parsley, basil, dill, tarragon and so on.
And some will combine the lobster mixture with lemon juice or a lemon wedge served with it. Finally, some will make their own lobster meat dressing, whether it’s a customized infused compound butter, their own mayonnaise, hollandaise or aioli from scratch. All nuances aside, the ultimate objective of a Lobster Roll is that you TASTE THE SWEET LOBSTER MEAT FIRST AND FOREMOST, which is why purists insist to keep it VERY, VERY SIMPLE.
The price of a Lobster Roll in the greater New England area will currently range anywhere from about $11 to $29, depending whether it’s from a dockside shack or dine-in restaurant.
Livestock Tavern’s Maine Lobster Roll, with Brown Butter Hollandaise on a Griddled Roll. Cafe Julia Lobster Roll: Claw meat mixed with shredded cabbage, Dijon mustard, roasted red bell peppers, celery, and red onions.
Surf Lanai’s Lobster Tempura Roll with battered lobster tail, tarragon remoulade on a brioche bun for $24 offered at the Surf Lanai in the Royal Hawaiian Hotel in Waikiki.
Speaking of Lobster Rolls in Hawaii, we actually do have a local resource for fresh cold water lobster from the Big Island of Hawaii over at Kona Cold Lobsters, Ltd. The four frozen raw cold water lobster tails were defrosted overnight, then placed in a covered pot sitting on heat-proof bowl with salted boiling water and steamed for 12 minutes. The eight precooked and scored Nova Scotia lobster knuckles and claws were purchased at the Hawaii Kai Costco in a 2 lb.
While obviously previously frozen is NO comparison to LIVE North Atlantic cold water lobster, or better yet, live from Kona coast, this is what we have to work with, so we’ll have to make the best of it!
I was able to get the meat out of the tails without tools, however even though the claws and knuckles I bought from Costco were already scored, I still needed to use kitchen shears and a small hammer to help crack them.

With that, out of the eight lobster claws I shucked, only one turned out with its bottom pincer meat still attached to the top grabber.
That there’s easily about $150 to $200 worth of cold water lobster if you were to order that  in a restaurant. Since I was making three rolls, I evenly divided the tail, knuckle and claw meat into thirds, which made it much easier to accurately execute this in-depth comparison demo’.
You do this by putting about a block and a half of unsalted butter (6 oz.) in a heavy-base pot on medium-low to low heat and let the butter melt.
I can’t believe some places actually cut-up the lobster claws in pieces and mix it with the rest of the meat, which even to me as Lobster Roll newbie seems like heresy! Butter just the TWO SIDES (plus underneath if you want, as I do!) of the split-top hot dog bun with clarified butter and toast in a pan on medium-high heat until the buttered sides are golden brown and crusty. Serve with french fries or potato chips and spear of dill pickle, along with a cold beer or glass of wine and enjoy!
Butter just the TWO SIDES of the split-top hot dog bun with clarified butter and toast in a pan on medium-high heat until the buttered sides are golden brown and crusty. After cooled, line the inside of the split-top hot dog bun with a single-layer bed of lettuce. Pile lobster and mayo’ mixture into buttered and toasted, lettuce-lined split-top hot dog bun, making sure to arrange the two lobster claws on top for presentation.
Sprinkle finely-sliced chives or green onions on top of lobster mixture for added presentation and flavor contrast. In a saute pan over medium-low heat, combine cooked and cut lobster meat with clarified butter, adding just enough to evenly drench and coat each piece of lobster meat.
Transfer the still-hot lobster meat sauteed in clarified butter and pile it into the buttered and toasted split-top hot dog bun, making sure to arrange the two claws on top, then slowly pour some of the residual butter in the saute pan over the lobster meat until nicely coated. Ken insists that every roll should have not just one, but TWO whole lobster claws, as that ensures you’re getting one whole lobster per roll, which is standard at the better lobster joints across New England.
Last, but actually FIRST in my book, we have the ORIGINAL, the Connecticut style Lobster Roll, absolutely SMOTHERED and INFUSED with none other than 100% pure, CLARIFIED BUTTAH, served on an also butter-toasted King’s Hawaiian Sweet Top-Split Hot Dog Bun. I must also add, the salty kettle-style Maui Potato Chips and tangy dill pickle were a nice contrast to the practical bombardment of lobster I experienced, and a must-have side dish. While the butter and mayonnaise obviously add a plenty of additional calories, cholesterol and fat to a Lobster Roll, lobster meat itself is VERY healthy for you, as you see in the chart above.
Ken said he used to bring home a 6 to 8 pound lobster every Friday (Fridays were fish day in New England) for dinner (his fish monger had a special deal per pound, so as long as he supplied, Ken purchased) and his steamer pot was larger enough that they fit Granite•Ware®. Ken and his wife would just tear the lobster apart and dip in clarified unsalted butter, along with a glass or two of white wine. During the summer, Ken would hold a Down East Lobster Bake for 21 family members so the pot had to hold 21 each 1? pound lobster for steaming, 21 pounds of clams, Portuguese sausages, potatoes, corn, onions and hot dogs. The restaurant Ken visits when he goes back to visit New England only serves 3 pound lobsters is Carrie’s Restaurant. A ONE-pounder will snap a pencil with its claw, so  just imagine getting a hand or foot caught in a FIFTEEN-pounder’s claws?! 1 hour to shuck 8 pre-scored claws and knuckles with extra hammer and food shears I think might be a new record excessive time for a newbie!
All you had to do is apply the right pressure bending back opposite the score marks to crack open the claws and as I indicated once you crack and separate the knuckles into individual knuckles all you need to do is use your pinky finger to pop the lobster meat out of the shell whole just like you popped the tail meat out of the shells with index finger using no extra tools.
We will have to sit down over just cooked whole North Atlantic lobster and let me show you how to extract all the sweet meat from inside the shell with just your bare hands leaving only cartilage and empty shell. I applaud you for you bravery, tenacity and culinary skills attempting this blog about lobster rolls never touching a North Atlantic lobster in your life and creating the three great looking basic lobster rolls!
Surf Lanai’s Lobster Tempura Roll with battered lobster tail, tarragon remoulade on a brioche bun for $24 offered at the Surf Lanai in the Royal Hawaiian Hotel in Waikiki. In particular, where you’ll find seafood shacks, lobster pounds (restaurants that hold live lobsters) and diners that serve lobster rolls abound, all across route 1a.

Traditional New England restaurants serve lobster rolls made with butter, not mayonnaise, with potato chips or french fries on the side. Because of that, the Maine Lobster Lobster Promotion Council got all up in arms and raised opposition, going as far as having their catch tagged as certified Maine Lobster so it could be positively identified as such to purveyors and customers alike. I mean, most places carry every other product King’s Hawaiian makes EXCEPT the Hot Dog Buns… WTH?!!!! However purists such as Ken frown on that, saying the tartness of the lemon totally defeats the purpose of tasting the SWEET cold water lobster meat. They were then chucked and cut in half so the digestive tract could be removed and cleaned out. Ken says he can shuck an entire lobster without any tools, which I gotta’ see to believe.
A note on that, there’s a large flat piece of hard cartilage within the claw that needs to be removed. The purpose of doing this is to raise the smoking point of the butter so it doesn’t burn, while also giving it a more pure and clean flavor profile.
Note, that residual pan butter will have now taken on the sweet briny flavor of the lobster meat, and is some GOOD EATS! I found it was better to keep the lobster and mayonnaise mixture warm, as when I tried it cold, the lobster meat didn’t have as much flavor. The cold glass of Fosters Lager (what I had on-hand) also added a nice finishing touch, however a glass of an assertive white wine would work equally as well.
Plus he would grill smoked BBQ ribs, hamburgers and hot dogs for lunch with potato salad and green salad.
But the fish shack he gets his lobster roll from in Boston, MA is Belle Isle Seafood, where a ? pound lobster roll is $21 (check Yelp for photos).
Don’t forget, it takes 7 years for a lobster to gain one pound of weight, making this “Big Eddy” about 105 years old! KEEP IT SIMPLE AND TASTE THE LOBSTER MEAT before you try to fool with the taste adding your individual identity to the roll. Best of all is how the clarified butter takes on the sweet, briny flavor of the lobster meat as it gets heated in the pan. Especially since those caught from other northeastern regions can look and taste very similar, and were often mixed together in holding tanks. Via the Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawaii (NELHA), Kona Coast Lobster is one of the largest live Maine Lobster holding facilities outside the Atlantic seaboard.
Those were thawed out from frozen overnight in the refrigerator, then briefly warmed in the steaming water leftover from cooking the tails. Every recipe I’ve read on Connecticut style lobster rolls calls for clarified butter. You skim the foam off the surface with a spoon, then wait to let all the milk fat solids sink to the bottom. Today KCL uses its husbandry expertise acquired doing aquaculture research to create a new standard in live Lobster quality. Then you simply pour the clarified butter in a container, leaving the milk fat solids on the bottom behind of the pot. You can still use the milk fat solids to brown your hot dog buns, although used it to snack on bits and pieces of lobster meat… he he. That buttery lobster meat also really compliments well with the also buttery-sweet King’s Hawaiian bun.

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