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admin | Category: Shipping Container Construction | 21.07.2014
Regardless of the size and style of your box, building begins with the panelled side frames.
You also need to prepare slots on the ends of the horizontal rails and vertical panel dividers to accommodate the splines that connect the frame members. After this work is done, prepare cardboard templates to lay out the decorative profiles for the bottom rails. Next, cut out the panels and splines from material that has been machined with the thickness planer to fit precisely in the frame grooves. While you are admiring your workmanship, take a moment to think about how you’re going to finish the project. After the brushes are put away, grab a bottle of weatherproof glue and assemble the frames for the final time. The bottom panel of the box rests on wooden cleats secured to the inside faces of the lower rails.
After removing the clamps on the bottom panel, sand the surfaces, trim the wood to size, put a few drips of glue on the cleats, then drop the panel into the box.
If you glued up the lid panel earlier, trim the panel to size and round over the edges on all four sides with a router spinning a 3?8″-radius bit. When this work is done, prepare the parts for the three-sided frame that’s mounted on top of the lid to accommodate the seat cushion. I attached the lid to the box using a pair of brass hinges (Stanley 80-3250) and installed a restraint chain to prevent the lid from opening too wide.
Now, remove all the hardware you just worked so hard to install, give the project a final sanding, and then apply the finish of your choice to the remaining exposed surfaces. Alternatively use it to keep your shoes, wellies, boots, slippers, heels and bags tidely out of sight.
The simple but elegant design with clean lines and rounded edges makes this a unique piece of furniture which will complement any room whilst offering a functional storage solution for your home. Why not personalise the toybox with a name and or a special date on the inside or outside of the door to make this piece of furniture truly unique, a perfect birthday or christenning gift and surely a family heirloom of the future! You have 28 days, from receipt of cancellable goods, to notify the seller if you wish to cancel your order or exchange an item.
Read more about our returns policy.Should you choose to return or exchange your order you will need to deliver the item(s) to the UK, where this seller is based. This elegant cedar deck box offers extra seating for unexpected guests as well as plenty of storage under the lid for cushions, small gardening tools and other odds and ends that may be cluttering up your outdoor living space. These frames have rails, stiles and panel dividers joined with spline joints that surround solid-wood panels. Slots are required on both edges of the vertical panel dividers, but on only the inward-facing edges of all the other parts.


I completed these by running the parts, on end, over the tablesaw blade using the same set-up and cut depth I used when cutting the panels grooves. The splines that connect the lower rails to the legs should be long enough to extend all the way to the bottom of the legs, to fill the exposed gaps on the feet as I mentioned previously.
If you plan on using contrasting colors, as I did, then it’s easier to apply the finish before the parts are assembled. Working quickly, apply glue to the splines, then bring the frame members together with the panels in place. Cut the cleats to size, then attach them to the rails with glue and rust-resistant screws, installed from the inside of the box. Cut out blanks for all four sides, mitre the ends at 45° and glue the parts together using a web clamp to secure the joints.
Cut a 2″-radius curve on the front ends of the side cushion rails, then attach the rails to the rear cushion rail with glue and counterbored screws.
After reattaching the lid and adding a comfortable seat cushion to the top, the deck box is ready to move outside, where your friends and family can enjoy your fine craftsmanship. This is a multi purpose piece of furniture that can be used as a toybox to keep, toys, teddies, building bricks, toy trains, balls evrything and anything your children have to play with. Build the project without a lid and drill a few drainage holes in the bottom to adapt this versatile design to create a matching planter box. You may have noticed that the groove on the legs will be visible on the feet as they extend below the lower rails, but this exposure isn’t a problem because you’ll be plugging these gaps with filler strips later on.
When I did this step, I used a pushstick to keep my fingers a safe distance from the saw blade as I guided the material from the bottom. Transfer these patterns to the rail blanks, cut out the shapes with a jigsaw or bandsaw, then sand the edges with a drum sander to clean up any saw marks.
Finishing before final assembly sidesteps the need for taping and prevents painting errors caused by an unsteady hand. Be sure to keep glue out of the frame slots so the inserts are free to move with seasonal humidity changes.
Now, you need to edge-glue boards to create a wide panel for the bottom and another for the lid panel. That spring-clamp tip I mentioned earlier also works well to keep the mitred ends aligned while the glue cures. Install wood plugs to cover the screw heads and give the three-sided frame a final sanding before securing it to the lid with more counterbored screws installed from underneath. You can also expand the dimensions to construct a larger box, with even more storage and seating for two.
Use three or four biscuits spaced along each set of legs to keep the corner joints aligned during final assembly.


Next, head over to the tablesaw and bevel the outside edges of the legs, with the blade tilted 45° from vertical. With the splines and panels on hand, you’re ready to dry-fit the frames to see if all the parts are going to fit according to plan. For my project, I started the finishing process by staining the exposed edges of the frame members and both sides of the panels. Now, take the completed frames and join them together at the corners with glue and biscuits to form a box. The finished dimensions for both are included on the parts list, but make them slightly oversized so you have room for trimming.
Now, take the completed frame and route a decorative profile on the outside edges using a handheld router and a 1?4″-radius roundover bit.
When you’re done, pair up the legs to form corners, cut slots for #20 biscuits, then mark the leg tops so the corresponding parts can be reunited quickly during final assembly of the mitred leg joints. If you follow this method, be careful not to contaminate the unglued wood joints with stain; glue can’t hold to stained wood. Wrap the entire assembly with web clamps to secure the joints, then square the bottom opening by equalizing the diagonal measurements. Here’s a handy tip when edge-gluing boards: apply spring clamps to the ends of the joints to keep the surfaces aligned under pressure from the main clamps.
The opening in the links is also the perfect size to accommodate the #8 round-head screws I used to attach the chain to the lid and the box. Also, leave the faces of the frames unfinished until after assembly, since you’ll need to sand the joints flat and smooth after they come together. After the glue is dry, trim the protruding parts of the splines at the bottom of the legs with a handsaw and sand the surfaces flush. I counterbored my screws 5?16″ deep and concealed the heads with tapered wooden plugs. I used Sico’s exterior-grade translucent stain for this project–it offers excellent UV protection and provides a durable finish that resists scuffing and fading.
This is also a good time to give the unfinished faces of the frames a final sanding before moving on. I prefer stain to paint for outdoor projects because paint tends to flake and peel over time as the wood is exposed to the elements.



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