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With the acquisition of the BMW back in January, I’ve been motivated to move the Z project forward so that, eventually, I can move it out of the garage to make room for the Bimmer to take up permanent residence.
The actual disassembly so far, undertaken this past Saturday and Sunday, was quite straightforward and incident-free.
Figured I would give you all an update, even though there are fairly significant changes to the project coming down the pike.
After towing the Z over the Appalachians on a car carrier behind my new truck, I ensconced it in our new garage here in Tennessee. A week or so ago, I tracked down a used coolant overflow bottle for our minivan at the local Pull-A-Part location. If nothing else, it was a fun couple of hours exploring the yard and tearing into a classic Z with wild abandon. The photos were taken somewhere in the Raleigh, NC, area (my dad was finishing his studies at NCSU at the time) and to my knowledge remained hidden, moved from house to house in a nondescript box, up until this past weekend. Aside from a couple of details, the pictures represent exactly the state to which I want to restore the Z. The original engine was somehow defective before my dad bought the car new, was replaced before he bought it, and the installer made a mistake when applying the number to the block.
The engine was surreptitiously replaced when my dad had it rebuilt in the mid-’90s, and once again, the installer screwed up when scribing the block number. What made that last theory particularly improbable is simply the fact that the block number and ID plate have no other purpose but to match. The video above represents a brief walkaround of the Z, and touches on many of the issues to be addressed in the restoration, including the visible rust and some interior problems. So, after working like a crazy person getting the driveline reassembled on Monday, the needed brake bridge didn’t arrive until Wednesday, leaving me with hours to install it, bleed the hydraulic and work out what bugs I could via a few test drives that evening, in order to confirm the car was at least passably roadworthy for the following morning, when I drove my son to school in the Z for his last day of 1st grade. And aside from mushy brakes (investigation still underway) and mysterious timing problems (solution TBD), the car performed like a champ, and he greatly enjoyed his ~2 mile drive to school. Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions. Finding toyota vin (vehicle identification number), The vehicle identification number (vin) is your vehicle’s legal identifier, and is applied to your car at the moment it enters production.
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Can't answer the question, but is it possible that your blue started off life darker and has lightened over the years? It is possible you had a designo interior, in which case you'd likely need to get the seat re-done by a specialist trimmers such as D-Class. Being an SL60 I do get that it may be an odd colour but also from personal experience I have seen this colour many times in Merc's from the 70's, 80's and 90's and it matches the rest of my interior perfectly. I always thought there were at least two different blues in the MB standard colours- just like the standard paint colours- I am going back to the olden days with that but I'm sure many will get my point.
I am not with the car right now- its in storage miles away but I will get the VIN when I get a minute to visit it. I don't know whether it helps but I test drove a standard SL500 of the same year as yours and the seat colour was the same as yours. That's really interesting, I have just bought a 91 300SL-24 vin WDB1290612F021066 with a blue interior. MB club UK is A Mercedes Enthusiast club run by enthusiasts for enthusiasts, MBClub UK is in no way affiliated with Mercedes-Benz, DaimlerChrysler or any of their respective trademarks. Hola gente, les cuento, me ofrecen una chevrolet S10 que, segun el dueno tiene el motor original que seria un High tech 2.5.
Gracias adanhorse, manana voy a ver si lo encuentro al dueno para ver el numero, genial el dato.
Unfortunatly the Clevelands didn't really have an engine number as such, at least not one that is accessable, there is the casting number which can be found on the block behind the starter motor, but this number will undoubtably be much the same as just about every other Cleveland, they all had a metal tag at one time time or another but this was just an id to the spec of the engine, but sadly as with most metal tags they disappear over time.
There is a unique number stamped at the rear edge of the block, but usually it is on the face where the bellhousing goes.
As a rule of thumb, 289s had no number stamped in the block (date codes aside), but 302s did (sometimes). I know you were after the indervidual block number location but this photo may help illustrate where you can find the date your block was made. I'd suggest these are some kind of batch marking, I seriously wouldn't go lifting the motor to use them as an engine number.
On American build engines, they have the 'year'-'month letter'-'day of month number' on the tag, for example 2G26. They all got the two digit year stamp, eg, '72' followed by another number which was the engine revision number stamped on the tag though, plus, the all important K-coding to tell you what engine it was (variant of Cleveland if you are talking Clevelands). Worth bearing in mind that in the US they ditched the metal tag for the 1973 modle year and instead stuck a paper tag on the front of the passenger side valve cover.
As Mike hinted, the Americans didn't stamp the VIN's of the cars on the blocks, whereas, the Australians did, even with their imported engines. When the Australians went to the 'black' block (the engines were painted black rather than Ford Blue) in 1978, they changed the block moulds, and in so doing reversed the date coding. It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult.

I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know.
I wanted a replacement seat base and found one online- spoke to the guy, he said no problem, shipped it- much darker than mine- looks almost dark grey, but it is a blue- deep dark blue. Here are some pictures, first the 'new' seat in comparison to my interior and also a stock interior picture I found online. Looks to be the same as the one in the photo, can someone tell me the colour code for it as I will have to replace a couple of bits of trim? When I ordered my sun visor cassette assembly the other day, the parts guy told me that the suffix code had changed to 5076 for Royal Blue.
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For the export engines, they dropped the year number as there tended to be a long lead time between the engines being assembled, shipped to Australia, then dropped into a car so it wasn't too important. This shows that Australian production of the Cleveland went on for a lot longer than in the US. The colour codes begining with 7 are for the roof fabric and option code 722 is for a baggage rack. Get in touch by phone or e-mail if you have any questions regarding the availability of parts! Llamo a las casas de repuestos Chevrolet para buscar informaci'on del motor y me dicen que no les suena. The black rocker cover with Mercedes Benz written on it is cracked and I want to replace it and a nearside visor housing. This was a series of block that Ford Australia cast for the US Nascar racers who were still using the 351C to race with. Effectively, they ran out of blocks, so Ford Aus rejigged the moulds and cast up some super strength, extra thick blocks.
Ford Aus were left with a whole bunch of super strong blocks and ended up chucking them in everything from trucks to LTD's, just to get rid of them.
They are pretty collectable now as they take a huge over bore, something that the US blocks can't do.

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