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We installed 16 Panasonic 250W hybrid solar panels with a Power-One Aurora PVI-3.6OUTD inverter. We installed 16 Hyundai 245W all black monocrystalline solar panels with a Power-One Aurora PVI-3.6OUTD inverter. A typical hybrid solar-wind power system comprises photovoltaic modules, a small wind electric turbine, electronic controllers, a battery bank and a diesel engine-generator.
To provide a given output, each individual parts of the hybrid system is designed with a smaller output than the one it would have if operating separately. If the wind sub-system has a rated capacity of, say, 3 kWh (kilowatts per hour), do not expect it to produce such output.
As to the photovoltaic subsystem, its output will depend on the size of the solar array and on factors like solar irradiation, shading and panel orientation. Prices of hybrid systems are higher than simple solar (or a wind) systems, for the same electric output. As mentioned earlier, hybrid systems can minimize the intermittency problem of renewable systems, which is important.
Hybrid solar-wind powered systems only become a cost-competitive option in areas where wind and solar patterns supplement each other significantly; otherwise they will be too pricey.
Our grid-tie inverter is rated for 4kW which will handle the total output from our solar panel array (3.6kW).
With a hip roof, each row will have fewer solar panels than the row below, as the sides keep moving in - think of a triangle shape.
For the second row, we added one inch to the height of the panels (now 66 inches) in order to leave some room between the rows for expansion.
As we have the exact vertical length of 3 rows of panels, plus 1 inch of space between the rows, we chalked the first horizontal line at 16.25 inches up from the edge of the roof.
Our second chalk line, which marks the second rack of the first row of panels, is measured up 32.5 inches from the first chalk line. Additional solar panels are added to the row and secured with the mid-clamps.As each additional solar panel is added to the first row, we interconnect each panel. The second and third rows of solar panels where installed in the same manner - install panel, make connections, connect grounding.

While we mounted the combiner box, inverter and disconnect switch, we let the electrician make all of the connections. Each of our two strings of 9 solar panels is connected to a 600 volt DC fuse in the combiner box. Installing solar panels can be a straight forward job if the time is taken for planning up front. It’s quite a small roof with a gable and a rooflight, but we used a high performance panel to make the most of the available space.
In other words: if you want to install a hybrid system to meet your home's electricity needs, consider insulating your home to high levels and install high-performace windows, appliances and lighting, in order to reduce the electricity consumption to the lowest extent possible. Using a tape measure, we located the spot on the ridge of the rooftop, 65 inches up from the rain gutter. Measuring up 66 inches from the first row and across for the total width, we found we can fit 6 panels into the second row.
If you have more space than required, you could split the difference to leave half of your space at the bottom of the first row and the rest of the free space at the top of the top row. Plenty of chalking is applied under the flashing and a hole is drilled through the shingles and into the rafter.
The positive, negative and grounding wires from the second and third row are connected together to form our second series string of panels. In our case the inverter needed to be mounted on a fire-proof surface such as half inch drywall or cement board. These two strings are then jointed in parallel and wired to the DC Disconnect and inverter. We then measured across the roof at this point, to determine the total width we could use for our solar panels. As it happens, our vertical distance on the roof, is the exact length of 3 solar panels, plus 1 inch of space between each row. Our flashing then has a rubber grommet inserted, more chalking and finally the lag bolt in screwed into the rafter. Local laws must be followed and we encourage everyone you use a profession installation team.
We installed the solar panels on the racking system to keep all connections at the TOP of each panel.

Once the first row had all panels installed, we connected an MC-4 cable from the first panel's negative lead and brought the connection to the other end of the row of panels.
The output from the inverter is then wired through a manual disconnect switch and into a new electrical meter.
Before starting any job such as a solar panel installation, know and follow your safety, building and electrical codes and use professional help as required - we used Ontario Solar Farms.
We then ran a grounding cable to all of the solar panel grounding lugs and the racking grounding lugs.
At our location, we have a feed-in tariff that pays us for every kilowatt hour of electricity we produce.
Our product is tried and tested and offers the most energy production and storage at this at a price nobody else can beat.
If we joined all 18 of our solar panels together in a series, we would exceed the 600 volt maximum of the panels.
We only use products from the best names in the business such as Outback and Renesola, to ensure this generator produces energy year after year guaranteed.
Thus for our installation we are using 2 strings with 9 solar panels connected in series in each string.
As our setup has 9 panels, 6 panels and 3 panels per row, we don't need to cut any of the racks. Once again this system is the complete package and has EVERYTHING you need and nothing you don’t! Each ground lug was added to the same end of the solar panel as where the connection box was located.
It is also completely expandable up to 4 times the size just by adding more panels and batteries to suit your need.

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