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Copyright © 2012 Autos Weblog, All trademarks are the property of the respective trademark owners. Connecticut Vehicle bill of sale form is used for the purchase or sale of a vehicle within the state, the form holds no legal acceptance elsewhere and is limited to the state boundaries.
Begin the form with choosing the kind of vehicle you are selling and accordingly check one of the boxes and move on to filling in the full and legal name of the seller (first, middle, last, suffix) along with the complete address with the zip code and the selling price of the vehicle in the section below it. Here, the full and legal name of the purchaser (first, middle, last, suffix) needs to be mentioned along with the complete address with the zip code. Lastly, the seller needs to sign the document along with the date certifying that the seller holds the complete rights of the vehicle and that the vehicle is free from all liabilities and that information given above is true. All content on this website including but not limited to Form Descriptions, Category Descriptions etc are all Intellectual Property of and its Authors.
Salvage laws were put into effect to give the vehicle-buying public a way to know that a vehicle has been badly damaged or declared to be a "total loss" due to damage at some point in its history. Of course, the image conjured by the word "salvaged" is often one of an unreliable, wrecked, junk car that is completely unsafe and should be avoided at all costs.
This is not always the case?some salvaged cars have been declared a total loss but can be restored to good, functioning, safe transportation. On the other hand, not all salvaged vehicles are unreliable, unsafe, or otherwise unsuitable for transportation.
If such a vehicle is sold for salvage value and then repaired, and if the repairs have been done by a reputable and qualified repair person, then the vehicle would be "road-worthy" and should be considered a safe purchase. If a car is involved in a collision, the cost to repair is compared to the value of the vehicle immediately before the accident.
Once a vehicle has been salvaged, the certificate of title is sent to the Oklahoma Tax Commission (OTC) and a new title indicating the salvaged status will be issued, thus "branding" the title. If a vehicle has spent its life in Oklahoma, it is simple enough; just look at the title to see whether or not it has been declared "totaled" and subsequently salvaged. Unfortunately, the reason these vehicles were designated as "totaled" in the first place is due to the water damage to the electronics systems. When the electronic systems are exposed to water, they may be "dried out" temporarily, but will continue to deteriorate, causing the vehicle to become unreliable or, worse, to fail at highway speeds.
Before your car has expired tags, you'll need to complete your license plate sticker renewal.
I acknowledge that is a privately-owned Web site that is not owned or operated by any state government agency. is a privately owned website that is not owned or operated by any state government agency. Our goal is to give you the most up-to-date, accurate information about your state DMV's processes. You will likely need a bill of sale form whenever you buy a vehicle from, or sell one to, another person. DMV - Department of Motor Vehicles - Online directory of state DMV web sites with comprehensive guide to Department of Motor Vehicle services including driving records, vin numbers, registration, licenses, and forms. Even though the majority of this project probably won't really get moving until at least this summer (relocation heading our way), I figured I'd get this started with a little background, plus some early progress. I have threatened to restore an old muscle car, but I know better?lack of space, money, time and everything else makes my wife look at me like I'm an alien. I spent a weekend digging through CraigsListings in a 1-state radius, hoping to find just a small engine to screw around with and learn some things. As I was ready to pay the guy and go on my merry way, he asked me if I wanted the chassis it came out of, too. She was a little mad at first, then the next day asked me when I was going to build her one, too.
I'm a bit of a clean freak with performance gear, so as I pulled the engine apart from top to bottom, I was either re-threading the fasteners into where they came from or putting them all neatly into marked zip-seal bags, then into plastic shoeboxes to be used or at least referenced later. The head on the motor looks like it has suffered from some sort of drop or something odd, and the left bank of header bolts are not only stripped, but elongated.
With the condition of the rest of the engine internals, I'm scratching my head at the contents of the spinner. The engine teardown went fast and as easy as I could expect, and the cursory inspection of everything indicates that it's a helluva lot nicer than any $25 I had anticipated.
I'm at the bottom end now, and still no socket to remove the oil spinner, so I'm at a stall until that arrives. Yesterday I was bored with the lack of oil spinner socket, so I decided to see what I could do with rust removal of some of the frame fasteners that aren't necessarily easy to acquire.
I experimented with a few bolts covered in Midwestern oxidation and had really good results.
They will all probably wind up in a box of other parts that get zinc plated, but it kept me busy in the garage yesterday when the kids were all sick, snotty and whiney. My disassembly had hit a wall because I lacked the socket to remove the oil slinger keyed nut. As you can kind of see, the keyed nut looks like it has been previously mangled by someone ham-fisted without the tool to remove it. I layered up today and attacked one of the things that has been bugging me on my list—my swingarm.

I have been thinking about this for a little while now, and without making any adapters or buying any blind bearing removal tools, I recalled seeing a clever method of getting a washer inside of the swingarm bushings by cutting or grinding the sides off square.
I used a 230mm length of M8 threaded rod, a few washers, a couple of body washers and a M8 locknut to make this tool, and it worked for both the interior bushings and the outer bushings. A 13mm deepwall socket on the locknut inside the arm with the trimmed washer on it, and a 13mm on the opposite side of the setup to tighten everything up and draw the inner bushing out of the arm. For the outer races, I couldn't figure out what to use to pull the race out, so I flipped my threaded rod tool to push the outer races out instead. This completely outdid beating on the swingarm with a sledgehammer or taking to high-tolerance areas with a hacksaw.
Now, to figure out a similar trick to press out the lower shock bushings that were powdercoated over. A couple of PMs asking for clarification on how I did the bushing press alerted me to the fact that I may have made it sound more complicated than it was. The seller needs to fill this bill of sale form, sign it and the buyer needs to submit it to the Motor Vehicle Department along with the necessary documents for the legal registration of the transfer. Just because a car looks great on the exterior and interior, and just because you can't see any particular damage to the engine compartment when you lift the hood, does not mean that you are buying a safe and reliable vehicle. The damage may have been very "fixable" but the cost prohibited the insurance company from doing so. In Oklahoma, if the repair costs meet 60% of the value of the car before the accident, there is a good chance that the vehicle will be deemed "totaled" and sold for the salvage value. The "full disclosure" titling rules in Oklahoma make purchasing a used vehicle a safer buy than it is in states without title "branding" and disclosure of salvaged status. There are no federal guidelines for salvaged vehicle and other states may not be as thorough as Oklahoma in the "branding" of a salvaged vehicle.
The date you see here reflects the most recent time we've verified this information with your state DMV.
But before you do, there will be some paperwork that you will need to provide the new owners so they can properly title and register the vehicle in their name. I'm the owner of a forum community like this one dedicated to formula cars of all kinds, but mostly small bore amateur racing in North America and Australia.
I haven't been on a motorcycle since long before I met my wife and grew up, but I have been wanting to do a cafe-style street racer for a while.
I found a listing for a "'70 or '71 CL350 engine in good shape" with no photos or further description, but it was about an hour and a half from home, and the price was right ($25), so I decided to take a little road trip.
For another 40 bones, I got a freshly powdercoated frame, swingarm, rear fender, rear shocks, center stand, battery box and toolbox, with mostly new hardware finger-tightened together.
The tank appears to be an earlier '71 CL though, so maybe that's what he was talking about.
Last week, my Vessel JIS impact screwdriver bits arrived (priceless pieces for a 40-year old Japanese bike teardown) and I got into the garage to see if I could get any of the stripped case screws off. I figure the mass of the rebuild will happen over 6 months from now in another state, so anything I can do to keep spotless records of every detail, the better off I will be. I figured a nutsert could work, but for less than the cost of the proper metric sizes, I picked up a freshly soda blasted head, springs and valves off of eBay.
Plenty of metallic particles in that clay that probably was some sort of dinosaur by-product at some point. The top end was VERY clean, the pistons are a bit of a mess, but it was all free and loose, and the cylinders don't look too horrible. At this point, I'm documenting fasteners and dimensions of things that have come out of it, so at least I'm keeping my over-active brain occupied. I set out for Home Depot in search of Metal Rescue or EvapoRust, which have been recommended on this and other forums.
Took less than a half-hour of soak, with a water rinse and a once-over with a brass wire brush for a couple of really heavy stubborn spots.
I found the Chinese double-sided one on eBay for $10 shipped, but wasn't sure how long it would take to arrive.
Whomever owned the frame previously had it powdercoated before doing anything to the frame, like detabbing, cleaning up seams or anything else. What I came up with kept me from making a trip to Mendard's, and it worked almost flawlessly. If I did this again, I would use second M8 nut to jam up against the bottom of the locknut to keep it from turning at all. I used 2 thick 22.5mm washers stacked on one end of the threaded rod captured with a M8 nut on the inside and a M8 locknut on the outside end. No hydraulic press needed, and I weigh 145 pounds soaking wet, so you don't need to be a brute to make this work. I got a chance to do a quick drawing of the press and how it works in the swingarm, and hopefully this makes is easier to understand what I did. With some measuring, you could probably use all SAE hardware found at Home Depot or Lowe's without much effort. There are many quick and easy plans that will help find a fantastic motorcycle gear associated with there and also for a great price tag.
For suggestions on protection from unscrupulous used vehicle dealers, read our section on buying and selling a motor vehicle.

Before you put the "For Sale" sign in the window, check your state to see what is required to sell your car. We've been around since late 1999 and we're still growing, but house, wife, kids, work and everything else pulled me out of racing cars pretty much for good.
It seemed like a good time to do it, the costs fit my budget, I can work in a smaller space and I can move everything around on my own without help from a cherry picker or someone else to split the weight. When I got there, he also had an old CL or CB tank for a few bucks, which would be a great canvas to practice rust and dent removal, and reset my bodyworking and paint skills.
The kicker was that it didn't have a title, and I didn't realize that what I bought would need a title to get it registered until I got home (yeah, it was a moment of stupidity). The frame is very clean but already powdercoated, and can't be titled or registered in Iowa until it's a complete motorcycle.
In a matter of about an hour, I was able to get every single stripped JIS cross-head screw off of the engine, and I started my teardown. It actually was more than the whole engine, but it will be better in the long run to have a spare as the build moves forward.
Fortunately though, the socket was able to be pressed in and seated on whatever was left on the nut.
One of the more frustrating parts of the powdercoat was the singarm shock bushings and mount bushings were BOTH left in the part for powdercoat. I was so excited about the results (without having to use gorilla force), that I figured I'd share it here. You only need to grind until it sides into the bushing sideways, which is just under 20mm wide. Take the squared off washer and stick it inside one side of the swingarm until you can flip it up against the inside of the bushing face.
This was fished into the bushing, and again, 2 stacked body washers went on the other end, except this time I installed them inside the opposite side arm, using another M8 nut interior on the thread. A little oil on the threads to keep from galling, and nothing else much other than what you see. I know in this area, metric hardware is all but impossible to find anyone with any selection. The most common required documents are a bill of sale, also known as a vehicle transfer form and a release of liability. Over the last few years as we have bounced around between states and dealt with inconsistent employment, I've had to dial back a lot of my hobbies. When the seller told me the engine was in a storage unit, I really expected the worst, but as it turned out, the motor was in really decent shape visually, and I could turn it over with the kickstarter.
We stuffed it all in the back of my GTI and I drove home thinking about how I was going to break it to my wife that I just essentially bought the skeleton and heart of a 40-year old motorcycle. I had the DMV run the VIN on it and it came back clean, having last been registered in the late 80s sometime.
Sitting down with a few dental picks, a thin screwdriver, plastic brush and a few other archeological tools to clean out the clay in the slinger, I wasn't sure what I'd find underneath. No amount of sledgehammer beating was budging the mount bushings that were coated in thick black powdercoat, and the shock bushings look fused to the arm. You might have to buff the corners of your ground sides round to get it to rotate properly. You have to think it through a little to get it setup correctly, but this works and is very easy with common hand tools to execute. Just simple a threaded bearing press and a lot of staring at the ceiling during the middle of the night trying to figure out how to get these buggers out. The Discovery station was stuffed to the top of the glass with programming similar to American Heli starring the actual Teutul family and also Motorcycle Mania hosted by simply Jesse Wayne.
The result of that fat trimming is that when I do have idle time, I get really itchy about working on mechanical things that aren't our daily drivers or a lawnmower. The engine looks like it may have been cracked open once before, as may of the JIS fasteners are boogered up pretty good.
Without access to a hydraulic press, and not willing to take a hacksaw to the parts, I needed another option. Slide the threaded rod through the washer all the way until it extends through the other arm of the swingarm. It had a relatively fresh once-over silver paint job, too, so it may have been a derailed project.
At this point, I used (2) 38mm x 9mm x 1.5mm thick body washers on the outside of the other arm, then a standard M8 nut lubed up with a little light oil on the threads. The invention channel had been filled towards the brim with coding like National Chopper with the TEUTUL loved ones and Motorcycle Mania located by Brian James.

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Comments to «Iowa dmv vin search wa»

  1. cedric writes:
    Who're driving by yourself, the emergency package and leisure events, giant-scale construction and civil engineering projects.
  2. killer457 writes:
    Rope and a 100' hank of 550 twine together with so when.
  3. ANGEL writes:
    I observed no one talked about Nuts as a survival.