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04.10.2014
Our goal is to give you the most up-to-date, accurate information about your state DMV's processes. Continue reading this page for all the information you need in regards to the process of applying for a duplicate Delaware title.
Replacing your lost vehicle title in Delaware requires several documents, but it's fairly easy to obtain once you've gathered all the information. An Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV 213) must be completed, then signed by all owners of the vehicle. All owners can go in person to the DMV, or a limited power-of-attorney can be signed (check out a sample form).
If there is a lien on the vehicle, the lienholder will need to complete part of the application and the fee will be $55. An odometer disclosure statement saying that you have recorded the correct odometer reading. You can remove a lien that has been satisfied by filling out the block on the lower left hand corner of the application for a duplicate title.
If I am from out of state and purchased a vehicle from a seller who lost the title, what do we do? When a Delaware resident sells a car to an out-of-state buyer, the seller needs to complete the Assignment of Certificate of Title section 1 on the back of a title. You can change information on a title that includes correcting a VIN, adding or changing a name, and updating the vehicle's mileage. Before your car has expired tags, you'll need to complete your license plate sticker renewal. I acknowledge that DMV.org is a privately-owned Web site that is not owned or operated by any state government agency.
DMV.org is a privately owned website that is not owned or operated by any state government agency. When transferring a vehicle title and changing ownership, owners must submit an accurate odometer reading. Ohio: The reverse side of the current Ohio Certificate of Title has the necessary statement. Washington: The Odometer Disclosure Statement form is printed on tamper-proof paper, and not available online. You will likely need a bill of sale form whenever you buy a vehicle from, or sell one to, another person.
This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series.
The Motronic system (also called the Digital Motor Electronics or DME) is hands down the best overall fuel injection system that you can use when you consider price and performance. DME chip is programmed from the factory with certain performance characteristics (mostly conservative) so that the engine will react well under a host of varying conditions.As with any electronic device, components can fail, triggering problems with the system. BMW Motronic system is designed to react to these failures and indicate them to the driver, so that they can be fixed. In order to accurately find the sensor and fix the problem, you will need to find out which error code is being triggered by the computer. For BMWs equipped with OBD I, you can read the codes using a system that is built into the car. To read codes for an OBD I car, you start by turning the ignition key on (do not start the engine) and pressing the gas pedal to the floor five times within a period of five seconds. If there is more than one fault code stored, then each code will be separated by a 2.5 second pause. When you are finished reading the codes, you can reset the computer and clear them all out. On twelve-cylinder cars, the engines are controlled by two completely separate DME systems that act independently of each other (twice as many things to go wrong!). For cars manufactured starting in 1996, BMW used the industry standard OBD II method of monitoring the fuel injection system.


It displays all of the engine fault codes, and also has the option of resetting the oil service lamp. The R5 tool is used in a similar manner to the 'gas pedal method.' Turn on the ignition key (do not start the engine), and the install the tool into the BMW diagnostic connector located under the hood (Figure 2).
With the tool plugged in, it will 'spin' the LED lights for a few moments, and then prompt you with a menu. Followup from the Pelican Staff: if you are sure the sensor signal is getting to the DME, I would check the tone ring on the camshaft sensor for damage or looseness.
Comments: I got a 1997 e36 m3 with about 139k I had a crankshaft sensor position A circuit. Comments: Hi I left my 1995 316i on position 1 ignition saturday afternoon till sunday midday then I just switched it off and took off the key.
Comments: I have a 96 BMW 525i and the battery ran dead after the parking lights were left on Now it won't start. Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have to start by reading the fault codes from the entire vehicle.
Comments: Have a 05 330ci and the check engine light came on and then my battery died as I wasn't driving in winter.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check fuse #31 in distribution box, If blown locate the source of the short.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fault is there because of a break in communication between the DME and the trans controller. Comments: 1992 325i 4d every time I turn my headlights on the dashboard lights goes on but then whenever I drive n hit a bump the dash lights go off ?? The date you see here reflects the most recent time we've verified this information with your state DMV. No matter how careful you are, important documents like your car's title can be lost, stolen, or damaged so that they are illegible. To do this, many state motor vehicle agencies provide a form called the Odometer Disclosure Statement.
The older yellow (gold) title requires a separate federal odometer statement you can get from any title office. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. Ignition timing and fuel delivery are all controlled by a digital map that is recorded in a removable chip within the main fuel injection (DME) computer. If one of the computer's sensors is not working properly, then the computer may not be able to successfully identify the current state of the engine and choose the appropriate fuel mixture or timing advance level. For OBD II compliant cars (1996 and later), the codes can only be read using a scan tool (more on this later).
When there are no more codes to be read, the computer will give the code 1000, which is one short flash, and then the light will remain off. Make sure that the last code (1000) has occurred, and then press down on the gas pedal for more than 10 seconds. As the cars get older, the wiring harness have a habit of becoming what is commonly known as 'work hardened.' This causes the wiring to become brittle and often break inside of its plastic sheath.
OBD II cars cannot be checked using the 'gas pedal' method previously described, but instead must be checked using a code scanner. Since this tool works with both OBD I and OBD II cars, I prefer to use it on the pre-1996 cars, as it is much easier to read the codes using this tool than it is using the gas pedal method. This connector contains a large 20-pin connector which the tool uses to interface with the DME computer.
You can now arm yourself with the information that you need to start troubleshooting fuel injection system problems. If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one. About a year ago my cel started coming on and off a few times a week and continued doing that for several more weeks until it stayed on continuously.


Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression.
On monday morning late for work I switched on the car and everything seemed fine, my battery has an indicator of charge level and it was still full.so I normally know when the key is on position 2 there is a click of a relay under the LH passenger but nothing happened I replaced the Ring antenna as well as transmitter receiver but nothing happened. The check engine light will reset after 40 key cycles or when the fault clears after three good (consecutive) drive cycles. Check the can bus sugnal from the DME to the trans controller. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. I've never used a home recharge kit but would guess it connects to the low side which is the larger line coming off of the compressor. When this happens, you can order a duplicate title through the Delaware Division of Motor Vehicles so that you can get on with selling a vehicle or using it as collateral for a loan.
In some cases, you can simply fill in the odometer reading section on the certificate of title or registration application. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. When this happens, the fuel mileage drops, engine performance suffers, emissions increase, and the car typically illuminates the 'check engine' light.
Stating in 1996, they were equipped with a more advanced version called OBD II, which was mandated by the US government, in order to standardize automotive repair and diagnostics. Only by testing the continuity of the wires end-for-end will you be able to determine whether the wire is broken or not. Once the ignition is turned on, simply plug the tool into the socket - it can only go into the socket one way.
You can also use the tool to reset the oil service lamp, and the inspection lamps that light up on some of the earlier BMWs. In the very near future, we'll be having more technical articles on diagnosing and replacing fuel system components on the Motronic systems - keep watching the site for details!
I took my DME and key to a guy who can test the dme and key with a simulator and everything was ok with both dme and key so now I'm puzzled and not sure if its EWS immobilize. I started the Car in the morning and drove so well for a couple of KMs then it showed on the dashboard, oil and battery signals then stalled and couldn't start. I just replaced the auxiliary fan in my 2000 528i and when I plugged the new one in , it runs at full speed even if the key isn't in the ignition. My owners handbook does not even mention a check engine tell-tale and I've never seen it illuminated. The OBD system is responsible for monitoring and checking all of the fuel injection sensors and systems in the vehicle, and turns on the 'check engine' lamp if it finds a problem or irregularity with one of them. To read the codes again, simply turn the ignition key off and on again and repeat the procedure with the gas pedal (five times within five seconds). Repeat the fault code reading process, and the computer should generate code 1444, which means that there are no faults stored. The codes returned will be identical to the codes listed above, except for the first digit, which will be the number two instead of the number one. At this point the engine doesn't have as much power and the idle is a little unstable when stopping. I was about to call breakdown services but since it stalled in a dangerous place for traffic, I tried switching on again to reverse and park it well but it regained full power and all the dashboard signs disappeared.
Is it possible to see if the check engine lamp is functional and not blown without taking out the instrument cluster?
I have checked all the wires by physically tracing them from end to end, wiggling, jiggling while reading with ohm meter-all wires, grounds, etc., everything looks like brand new.



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