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We've got our 7000W generator now hooked up to a transfer switch with the middle of the switch going to the 150A main breaker, and the top and bottom of the switch to the PO and generator.
Though it's not a bad idea to ground the chassis in any case, if not to its own 8ft ground rod then a small stake in the ground. The neutral for a branch circuit must be terminated (attached to the neutral bus in) the same panel (or subpanel) where the breaker for that branch circuit is.
I am not sure how this works with transfer switch boxes with a half dozen to a dozen individual transfer switches each perhaps with overcurrent protection (built in breakers), one for each branch circuit eligible for generator power. When the transfer switch box comes with neutral pigtails terminated in the switch box and coming through the fat flexible conduit for for each respective branch circuit, then this gets around the problem with a generator whose ground and neutral are bonded and not easily unbonded. 1.) Is the generator solidly connected to the homes grounded conductor (Service Neutral) or does the whole house transfer switch by mechanical or automatic means switch the incoming service neutral to that of the generator ? 2.) If the service neutral is switched and the generator has bonded neutral and ground then the generator is a separately derived power source and you would install a grounding electrode or two at the generator. When several ground wires are wire nutted together short of the panel with just a single wire continuing on to the panel the latter is sized equal to the larger(est) of the various ground wires coming together.
I purchased a TRC10006D as it uses the same Siemens breakers currently installed in our main panel. My plan is to use a 60amp 2 pole breaker in the main and run (2) insulated 6 gauge THNN wires to the 100amp breaker (utility) in the transfer switch. I will run (1) insulated 6 gauge THNN wire between the neutral in the main and the neutral in the transfer switch. As the panel will NOT be connected to the main via metal conduit, I will run (1) 8 gauge bare solid copper wire between the grounded bar in the transfer switch and the main. When a storm knocks out power for extended periods of time, many of those affected turned to backup generators to help keep food safe, lights on, and safety and medical equipment operating. Notify TCEC you are installing a generator so it can be noted on your account for the safety of lineworkers.
When venturing outside after a severe storm, whether to check a generator or for any other reason, stay away from downed power lines. When you refuel the generator, make sure the engine is cool to prevent a fire, should the tank overflow. For more information on the use of generators and safety after a storm, go to or download TCEC's Generator Safety (English) or Generator Safety (Spanish) brochure for more information. Adding a standby generator to the electrical system of a home, farm or business requires a suitable transfer switch to disconnect the electric loads from the electric utility grid. BACKUP GENERATORS CAN TURN INTO LETHAL HAZARDS FOR LINE WORKERS, IF THEY ARE NOT CONNECTED PROPERLY. For smaller portable generators used to power household appliances (refrigerator, freezer, lights or other equipment) that can plug directly into the generator, a transfer switch is not necessary. When a transfer switch is called for, it is commonly located between the utility meter and the loads to be served. The size of the transfer switch (rating in amps) is not determined by the size of the generator, but by the rating of the circuits it serves. If only a few critical circuits in a building need to be powered during an outage, it is possible to connect only those circuits to the transfer switch.
When a standby generator will serve loads using the permanent on-site wiring system, a sign must be placed at the service entrance (NEC 702.8).
A permanently installed generator should be grounded using #6 copper wire to connect the generator to the existing grounding network of the premises. On tractor-driven units, always turn off the tractor and PTO control to service the generator. To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. The power drop to my home comes in by my shop, where the electrical meter sits in a panel with a 200 amp main breaker. Power leaves the switch and runs underground in conduit to a primary panel on the house 100 feet away, where two 100 Amp breakers split it off to two more separate sub-panels in different parts of the house.
Your transfer switch will need to be of three-pole construction AND with a 200 ampere rating.
The generator I'm using was originally installed near the house panel, and the transfer switch consisted of two 100 amp switches---one for each of the 100 amp breakers that lead to the each of the sub-panels in the house. Switching the neutral is the preferred method in the latest code and it also eliminates the probability of unwanted parallel paths for return currents. As I recall, the NEC does not require a ground rod at the generator unless it's a separately derived system, but I also seem to remember that most inspectors want to see one. Obviously if you have a large fixed generator, and especially if that generator has an ungrounded Delta-wound 3 phase output feeding only 3 phase loads and transformers then the issue of grounding and bonding is moot.
Here is the interconnection diagram for the generator in question, scanned from the manual. I have to say I'm a bit confused: at first glance it seems to show neutral and ground bonded at the generator, because it looks like there are TWO wires coming out of the neutral connection at the generator control panel.
Furd: If I understand your last post correctly, you're saying that if the neutral is NOT switched, as this diagram shows, then ground and neutral should NOT be bonded at the generator? The transfer switch uses an L14-30 connector which allows me to connect the two "hots" from the generator (one hot goes to 3 circuits and the other hot goes to the other 3 circuits in the transfer switch) but I would have to combine the two neutrals from the generator.

Didn't look at the manual, but the pic on the HD site shows both 120V and a 240V rececptacles. When you say "The specs on the link you provided say otherwise" are you referring to the generator? So the assumption being that "behind that panel" on the generator they are the same neutral, if that's the case, then it should be alright to connect them together at the L14-30 plug to the switch inlet. What got me skeptical is that I read another user of this same model generator wanted to do the same thing, and he measured the two hots on the generator (while running) and got 0V instead of 240V. Thanks, that means that both coils are probably wound together and placed in the same slot, with the leads brought out separately. Joe Contractor to Electrical Inspector, "What do you mean you are going to make me follow the code?". Cuban Pete, I'm glad you found the GEN4000LP generator webpage and were able to solve the confusion.
After taking it out of the box, I used my test meter to measure continuity across the neutrals in the two 120V outlets.
Now, that explains perfectly what it says in the product description that this is a SINGLE phase generator, so there is no way to make a 240V connection (even if I wanted) since both 120V outlets are simply connected in parallel. Now, I started wondering the next question, why in the world would they write in the manual that the maximum load of one outlet should not exceed 1800W if both outlets are connected together in parallel to the same generator output anyway? So, in conclusion, when I make my Y connector to the L14-30 plug on the transfer switch, I'll just use heavier gauge wires to be safe.
The reset switch for the "hot side" of each outlet is probably a resetable temperature dependent (thermostat). Its contacts will open up to interrupt the current flow when it sensed an abnormal condition. Though it does seem he frequently has a Swiss Army knife or Leatherman and a roll of duct tape with him. Advancements in components for batteries, diodes and LED's, and innovations in consumer and commercial products.
We've got the bonded neutral and ground from the generator going to the neutral bank and ground screw on the switch and a neutral from the breaker box going to the neutral bank on the switch. I assume this isn't necessary since the ground from the generator is grounded through the breaker box?
Can anyone tell me why when wiring a generator transfer switch, you are required to move the neutrals (of the circuits being transfered) from the main panel to the transfer switch.
For each individual switch two wires go through a fat flexible conduit to the main panel, one to the branch circuit hot conductor, the other to the main panel breaker for that circuit.
In the latter case, had the branch circuit neutrals remained unmodified in the main panel neutral bus, there would be double bonding of neutral to ground, once in the generator and again in the main panel. Notice that no current carrying wires from the utility are solidly connected to the homes distribution panel load side of the transfer switch once the transfer switch is in the generator position. There is a green set screw on the Neutral bar, it has not been tightened down, should I just remove it?
A permanent generator is wired into a house by a qualified electrician using a transfer switch.
Always notify TCEC when installing a permanent generator and always install a double throw switch. Portable generators should never be plugged directly into a home outlet or electrical system—use an extension cord to plug appliances into an outlet on the generator.
Assume that any dangling wires you encounter are electrical, and treat all downed or hanging power lines as if they are energized. Double pole means that there are two pairs of wire lugs available for connection of hot conductors (see Fig.
But any time a generator powers loads through the permanent wiring system of the home, farm or business, a transfer switch must be used. Protect the switch within a weatherproof enclosure when installed outside (NEC Article 404.4). If a central meter location is used, the transfer switch rating must be equal to the size of the main service (typically 100, 200, or 400 amperes). This tells your utility, or electrician, that a generator may be providing power during an outage.
This existing grounding system will have at least one, 8-foot ground rod (or other approved grounding electrode). The generator specs say "Brush, Revolving Magnetic Field, Self Exciting, 2-Pole, Single Phase". That means they are probably two separate coils in the generator, each generating half of the rated power output. That makes their output in phase, and if you measure the current in the combined neutral you'll find it to be the sum of each individual neutral. I just received this generator yesterday and I am in the early stages of planning its connection to the house. Conditions like overloading or when a preset limit of current has been exceeded, which triggers overheating along its path.
Here each individual switch in the transfer switch box is like on a switch loop with respect to the main panel.

I wonder why your not required to move the ground wires from each circuit being transfered from the main panel to the transfer switch? So we’re biting the bullet and installing a 5500watt generator to run the essential functions in the house.
This protects the owner, his neighbors, and repair crews from electricity backfeeding onto power lines. Protect the generator by operating it under an open, canopy-like structure on a dry surface. The operation of pole-top switches is essentially the same, except that a manual switch lever extends to ground level, which allows the user to operate the switch. The switch should be within 25 feet or less of the generating unit for convenience and safety.
This may seem like an excessively large switch if a small generator is used, but it prevents undersizing the switch if a larger generator is used in the future. With this layout, the transfer switch can be smaller than the main service, since the switch is sized to the current rating of the circuits that it serves. I have a 200 amp switch that will replace them in the new switch box, and it is ALSO only two pole. I am going to place a test meter on the generator across the two 120V outlet neutrals (with the generator powered off, of course) and see if I get continuity.
Therefore, I didn't know if there were any consequences to connect the two neutrals together. The case of the generator is bonded by the equipment bond going back to the panel via the transfer switch.
Distributing the load across two outlet wires (even if they are connected together in the end) should lower the risk of overheating the wires. The internet has the tables available if you can trick google into giving you the correct information. The rated capacity of the duplex outlet, (regular U-Gnd type) used in the generator termination is much lower than the total power the generator can generate and provide! If you draw too much current on a particular outlet, the overload will trip, the other leg will continue to operate until it draws too much current. I believe I have done my research but wanted to make sure everything I’m doing is AT LEAST minimum code.
Backfeeding can seriously injure anyone near those lines, especially co-op crews working to restore power. The third wire (neutral wire) is continuous through the transfer enclosure, and is typically not switched. Next, I got a bit more curious and decided to place the continuity test across the two hots and see what happened. The other consideration is voltage drop, be sure to take that into consideration if you are using a long run. Additionally, the reason for the lines being split into 2, was probably due to the size or wire gauge used was also too small to carry total amount of current or power capacity of the generating unit!
One leg of the Y goes to a reset switch and then to the first outlet, and the other leg of the Y goes to the other reset switch and then to the second outlet. I believe if something exceeds code but increases the safety or effectiveness of a product I’m all for it. A temporary generator fired by gasoline or diesel fuel should not be attached to a circuit breaker, fuse, or outlet.
The grounding wire also passes through the switch enclosure to provide a safe and continuous ground connection.
The reason the instruction book limits you to 1800 watt at each plug is that the plug disconnect is not capable of supplying more. This resistance increases over time due to wear and tear and therefore needs to be replace as necessary or as needed! The term double-throw means that the operator can place or “throw” the switch into two different positions. I then proceeded to discover how the outlets were wired, so I removed the back cover behind the outlets.
They could have supplied a larger amperage plug like that on a motohome, but then normal cords would not work. What concerns me is that the way the unit is set up, you will not have any protection for the cord you plug in until it is run through a fuse or circuit breaker. I then found that the single red wire coming out of the generator is connected to the hot side of BOTH outlets, and also, the single white wire coming out of the generator is connected to the neutral side on both outlets. Your idea of tying two plugs together will work, but you must do it carefully to avoid creating a safety risk.
Such a switch will prevent the standby generator from being simultaneously connected to both the customer’s load, and to the utility’s grid.
The unit you describe sounds very much like many of the cheap contractors generators that are sold.

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